Meteor shower at Komovi

After a small section along the river, we had to climb and climb and climb. We stopped for lunch at a weird restaurant in Tresnjevik, which had decorated it's entrance with a poorly prepared wolf skin with wayward eyes. They spoke and understood zero words of English, and were annoyed when I tried to ask for an extra menu item. Now, I knew I was getting off the tourist grid.

We entered the Komovi Regional Park and climbed on up till we reached the hamlet of Katun Vulica. Up here at 1800 m, there were a handful of houses, built very porously of wooden planks, surrounded by vegetable gardens, free running chickens and wooden sties exactly big enough for one large pig.

I asked a woman in her yard about the camping option I had been told about.
"Gora, gora", she said, pointing towards the mountains and gesturing with horns on her head that we should not set up tent in the village. Then she came out of the kitchen and poured me a shot of rajika liquor. Then she pressed a big loaf of bread and a box with a kilogram of home made cheese into my hands, and said "Gora, gora" pointing upwards.

So we climbed up to the grassy ridge above and set up our tent looking out on to a wonderful vista of forested hills and distant mountains. There was a hand-painted wooden plank advertising a restaurant in the next hamlet. We took the rock path down wondering how the cars were navigating these crazy paths.

The restaurant refused to serve us food because they had run out of water. Oh right. We befriended a young German couple from Regensburg and sat with them watching the sunset. We were soon joined by a couple from Podgorica, and had a good chat. Kiran wanted to hang out with them, so we went back to the tent, brought our own food and returned to the terrace.

The sunset was very beautiful, with a few tall rocky peaks breaking through the crimson and orange scarf of light that blanketed the horizon below. As night fell, all eyes kept looking up to the skies and we kept a silly tally of the Perseid meteor showers. I woke Kiran up and we returned to our tent. I had left the tent without the rain flap, so we had a view of the sky as we lay inside. Though he repeatedly asked me to wake him up for the meteors, I heard the gentle snoring of Kiran inside the tent, as the radiant milky way swirled over the mountain silhouette.Læs mere