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Rolling on Europe
  • Arjun
  • Arjun

Rolling on Europe

Rolling about the continent looking for an exit. Read more
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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Grebaje valley
    Laundry monkeyDana and JosefHailstorm!Dramatic frisbeeStorm games

    Grebaje Storm

    August 17, 2024 in Montenegro ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    When we rolled into Grebaje valley, we were squinting into the beams of our headlamps. We could barely make out the outline on craggy tall peaks just beyond the flat land. And yet, Kiran somehow recognized the Hilux of the Slovakian family that had accosted us in Andrijevica. Dana and Josef were with other overlander families, and I got some very potent welcomes in a short glass.

    The next morning was sunny and radiant and we could finally see the splendor amidst which we had pitched the tent. We thought it was good to have a rest day, so we set about doing some much needed laundry in the water spring.

    It was impossible to guess what would happen there just two hours later. Starting with loud thunder with no clouds overhead, the sky then built up and started to shoot down large ice pellets and thundering rain. We moved in to the camp roof next to us and watched in wonder. And we wondered how the tent would hold up against the growing puddle around it.

    After the storm subsided, Kiran and I played our most dramatic game of frisbee with our camp neighbors - friendly Dutch girls who were also huddled under the shelter. We saw out the evening indoors in a nearby inn with board games - and the rain had not yet completely stopped. It was the second rain I've had in nearly 40 days, but wow, what a dramatic storm in a dramatic valley!    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Off to AlbaniaBashkim waterfallsMorning after the storm

    Vermosh-ish

    August 18, 2024 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    With further storms predicted in the afternoons, we aborted our plans to climb up from the Grebaje valley. We started cycling out towards the Albanian border. The Vermosh crossing was far quieter than I had imagined. The pot-bellied policeman at the border gestured disapprovingly at me cycling in his country with Kiran. Maybe he thought it was a dumb idea.

    We came to a bridge that was high above a loud waterfall. Clear water gently steamed till it plunged in a foaming white roar on to the rocks below. Kiran wondered if we would be able to cross it while canyoning.

    The rain arrived just as we arrived at the turn off to Vermosh. So we decided to get lunch at the home restaurant of a farmer, and had to choose between 3-4 kinds of potatoes. Then it poured, so we asked if we could stay there. They were super friendly and kind, letting us sleep on the floor of the dining tent rather than the wet grass outside. The dogs barked all night, only to be interrupted by a fox squealing. I missed sleeping in nature.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    SelcëGale winds

    Parku Kombëtar

    August 19, 2024 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We rode out in the sunny morning to resume our tour south into Albania. I was totally unready for the splendor of the landscapes that we saw. The imposing cliffs, the plunging gorges, the textured rock faces, the thick forests and no signs of humans except for this road that snakes through these mountains. What is this magical place? Parku Kombëtar, the Albanian Alps, a lone board announced further down the road. It felt more like the Dolomites to me.

    We rolled along till we arrived near Dobrinje. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant with a great view. We chatted with a solo cyclist from Netherlands who was camping on the garden. Then suddenly came the gale winds, and it started to pour.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    TamarëLumi i CemitChurch camp

    Tamarë the inland outpost

    Aug 19–20, 2024 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The storm seemed to have passed just as suddenly as it arrived. The road dived resolutely downwards, through more gorgeous mountains and mighty gorges carved out by the Lumi i Cemit river. The rock faces were highly textured, with large slabs inclined at all angles.

    Just to taunt us, a sole black cloud chased us downhill and poured down a targeted bout of rain on us. We rode on through the patter of the large raindrops on the slippery asphalt. This made the curvy road even more titillating.

    Tamarë is the last town before the big climb into the mountains. I was expecting to draw cash, buy food, find a room and civilisation l. Instead Tamarë turned out to be a frontier town in the middle of the backcountry. There was an assortment of rotten vegetables, in various stages of decay in the single shop in the town. When I asked for a cash machine, they looked at me puzzled and said the next one was 25 km in Koplik. It was three days since we had arrived into Albania and we had yet to see a cash machine or a market. The trials of entering the remote part of a country overland.

    We stocked up on a few jars of food, some boiled water and headed out towards the mountains. Kiran was feeling like we could brave it. The storm started to take shape again. So we set up camp on the front porch of a tiny church by the river. Maybe the heavens would open up tomorrow.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Climb above Grabom
    The ladderThe reward

    Leqet e Hotit

    August 20, 2024 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We set off in the morning to climb up the serpentine road up Leqet e Hotit. This climb is about 600 m, but with pretty hard 10% or higher gradients. We pumped away at the pedals and took many breaks to admire the elevated views.

    A few hours later, we made it to the top! The families and car tourists at the top stared at our sweaty faces. We didn't care, we were proud to have cycled up there! We got cool drinks from the enterprising man who had driven a drinks truck up there.

    Then suddenly, with little warning, it started to rain pretty hard. The umbrella of the van leaked plenty. All the other visitors hopped in their cars and drove away. Kiran and I sat there alone watching the mighty slopes and the rain.

    Then suddenly the rain stopped and the sky cleared to deliver our reward: a fantastic and radiant rainbow arched across the valleys! A sublime gift of the mountains for our efforts.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    2
    Shkodra Lake

    Shkodra Lake

    Aug 20–21, 2024 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Once the rainbow faded, the goodbye kiss was over. It was time to leave the mountains and head down to the plains. Down through a great 16 km of freewheeling descent!

    The plains riding was uneventful, but brought us to the shores of Shkodra Lake. The water was warm and shallow, even with stormy winds in the evening. The morning calm was broken by a hundred stylized dives!Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    A real bicycle path!
    A real pathBalkan Green LizardLezhe logjam3Back to the coast!

    Talea beach

    August 21, 2024 in Albania ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    There was an actual paved bicycle path near Shkoder! I haven't seen one since... Slovenia? This path later merged into the highway, and we decided for back roads. Just two minutes away, the sheer facade is broken and we ride through some nasty sprawl of trash and neglect. And then it is country lands again. Albania sure delivers a lot of variety quickly.

    We rode a lot today, a good 60+ km till we finally rolled out on to a jetty at sunset. After a month, we were back at the coast!    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Albanian parking is confidentTirana centerEnd of the road treatReady to fly11Ready to fly!

    Tirana

    Aug 22–24, 2024 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    A long day of slogging over the hot plains brought us to Tirana, the capital of Albania. A major change for us country bums: shiny cars carrying shiny people between tall buildings. Kiran had a ready answer for our end of the road treat, so we went to eat in the only Indian restaurant in the city.

    The next day we began the adventure of figuring out in a strange city: 1) find boxes that are big enough, 2) learn to disassemble the bikes, 3) play a very awkward game of tetris to pack the bikes and 4) organize transport to the airport. Just like all those mountains, this also took us all day and left us exhausted.

    We got it done! Schopper and Rocker were boxed. We got a haircut to improve the chance of us getting past airport security.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler

    Lost in Lyon

    August 24, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Our flight into Lyon gives us a grand view of the mountains. The two boxes with the bicycles rolled out on to the belt, looking intact. But the bicycle bag that I had checked in did not arrive, and it contained most of my camping gear.

    We met up with maman Sabine at the airport. While Kiran was hugging her, I set about building Schopper up from the parts. The first time I put a bicycle together is at an airport. Kiran gave Schopper his stamp of approval and then we held each other for a long hug and kiss goodbye.

    I went outside to face 70 km winds from a storm. I could did barely even stand up. Without my tent - my home by now - and without my adventurer boy, I felt particularly lost looking at the storm.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Lac de CropCol de la Mine de Fer

    Climbing Belledonne

    August 28, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    While waiting for airlines to find my bag, I took shelter at Elodie's place. Lovely to see her and the boys again.

    "You know what you could do? You could borrow my camping gear and go for a walk in the mountains while your bags are not yet here"

    So off I went to climb the Belledonne mountains, which I had cycled along on their other side. The path up from Pont de la Betta cuts through beautiful forest as it climbs up to the plateau. Then through the plateaus it climbs on and on and then suddenly: this Lac de Crop fenced in by tall rock walls.

    After a nap, I leave the few other climbers behind, and go past and above the lake. The path disappears into scree and then just large rocks to hop and jump on till the Col de Mine de Fer at 2400 m. What a climb over the rocks! A dazzling ibex with large horns looks at me unimpressed. So I move on and the path goes down and then back up to the next pass of Brèche de Roche Fendue.

    What an amazing view opens up on the other side! After a tough climb down, I pitched the tent and watched the sun set in a thousand pinks on to the clouds and mountains ahead.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    View to Col de la Vache1Molten chocolate gone wrongView from the ColLac de la Sagnes

    Col de la Vache

    August 29, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Waking up in the high mountains is a sublime pleasure. The slanting golden light fills the air with magic and gets me moving.

    Here on the Haute Traverse de Belledonne route, my aim was to go over the next mountain pass. What a tremendous hike up to Col de la Vache. It was so challenging that I wanted to quit and get down from the mountains. That's when one feels the claustrophobia of the open mountains.

    Eventually I scrambled up to the top and sat breathing... In awe at the view on to the first of the seven lakes. I climbed down and walked to set up camp at Lac de la Sagnes.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Lac de la Sagnes
    Lac ClosLac CottepensLac CarréLac NoirLac Curtillard

    Les Sept Laux

    August 30, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    I missed the sunset last night as I fell asleep as soon as I lay down to get some rest. But the sunrise at Lac de la Sagnes compensated it fully. What a beautiful morning! Watching the slowly changing reflection in the water, I set about to walk past all seven lakes of this Alpine plateau. Each lake was a jewel of blue and rock and golden light.

    After a beer at the refuge, I set about climbing down from the top. This was an extremely hard descent - so steep and rocky. My knee started to throb and ache. Eventually I got out at the bottom of the forest in Fond de France. A beer never tasted as refreshing as the one at Lac Curtillard.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Elo found a spot!
    Oops!Nature picnicTea time tales1

    Belledonne vanlife

    August 31, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    It was the weekend, and my bags had not yet been delivered. So Elodie joined me with her trusty jumpy van. Except we ran it into a ditch, and had a fun time digging it out. Tools used included a spoon, a knife, three towels, several rocks and a car jack.

    We hoped the rest of the time better be more chill. And it was! Beautiful sunsets and creamy camembert and fruity wine and great company - just the way to recover from a hard trek in the high mountains.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    2Reunited with my home!

    Chasing home

    September 2, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The airline had found and sent my baggage... But now the delivery service seems to have lost it. I decided to chase down the package. I cycled out 25 km to the main depot of chronopost and confronted them.

    The tracking info showed that it was handed to La Poste days ago. So I cycled back past Grenoble, and a 10 km further to the other side to the office. They couldn't find the bag, even though they'd been pushing it around for three days. On insisting that we stop this game of postal golf, they looked through the depot a third time - et voila, they found my bag!

    Riding 70 km to grumble in different offices paid off: I was reunited with my mobile home. Now, the trip can go on!    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The Chartreuse fence
    Dent de Crolles1Col du Coq1

    Climbing the Chartreuse fence

    September 3, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    This unexpected week of waiting by touring the high mountains was over, and it had been brilliant. Thanks to no-plan-is-the-best-plan Elo! As I had no answer to where I will go now except "North", she gave me the next mission: climb up over the Chartreuse mountains. These create a giant fence to the north and seem to catch all the clouds at their top.

    I climbed up towards Dent de Crolles, a peak that does indeed look like a human tooth from various angles. I pumped away at the pedals till I reached Col du Coq at 1434 m, a good 1100 m climb. I found a grassy plain at the top and pitched my tent. It felt good to be home in it again! And good timing too because soon after was heavy rain and thunderstorm going into the night.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Zipping down the Chartreuse
    1Lac Aiguebelett1Familiar gearGorges de la BalmeCamp by the Rhone

    Back to the Rhone

    September 4, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    It had rained hard and long. The tent was all wet, and some water had even seeped in through the floor. I just rolled it up wet and set off. A downhill ride through the Chartreuse was not to be delayed.

    The downhill ride was a lot calmer than I expected, because it stayed up on the plateau for a while. And then after I'd found a cafe, it plunged down through the forest in a thrilling descent along Le Guier Mort, which had some choice gorges and pinnacles.

    It rained all through my ride through the plains. It seemed like the road was testing if all my restored camping gear was in good shape. After a picnic at Lac Aiguebelett, I kept riding and riding till I joined the Rhone - for the fifth(?) time on this trip.

    Past the gorges at La Balme, I had a restaurant meal (fromage fondue, yum!) as much to eat as to just sit on a dry spot. By the time I pitched my tent next to the Rhone, I'd ridden 98 kms today.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    View at Clarafond
    Monkey mamaA good drying outMom's cookingBirthday cake

    Birthday reprise

    September 5, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Not sure why, but whenever I am near Sparsh's home, it starts raining real hard. And it is always a birthday to celebrate - this time Aayu. So I changed course and went back to their beautiful home at the foot of the Juras.

    As usual, plans unfolded and her mom was coming the next day. I had to stay an extra day? To eat the delicious food she will make? Oh I'm sure I could arrange that.

    Cakes with candles. Fruit baskets. Sun shining down on the garden. Vaangi baath and dhokla. Late night conversations. A welcome rest.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Drop off to the top
    Col de la FaucilleGrand traverse du JuraLac NarlayLakeside camp

    Grand traverse du Jura

    September 7, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Patty and the boys brought me to Col de la Faucille. There I could ride through the plateau on the cycle route of the Jura traverse - this time on the French side. The path is desolate and narrow, winding through the forest up and down the slopes.

    Eventually I got off the plateau and kept riding on. In the evening, the clouds gathered again, flashing angry lightning through the dark layers. I went to Lac Narlay and quickly set up my tent. The storm poured down through the night.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Pastures everywhere
    Orange slugsForest too dark

    Forest too dark

    September 8, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Despite the rain, I slept a good 10 hours to recover from the long ride. Next morning, it cleared again and it was time for a swim in the tranquil lake surrounded by forests.

    Then I set off again through the low Jura, which was full of pastoral lands and farms and apparently abandoned homes. Riding through the rain, it felt particularly bleak in this forgotten part of France.

    Near Mouchard, I turned into a forest. It was full of bright orange slugs all over the brown and green forest floor, like leftover embers of a scattered fire. With the clouds gathering again, the sky turned black For the first time, I didn't feel comfortable camping in this dark forest. I exited and set up the tent by the road at the edge of the forest.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Arc et Senan
    All day longCamp at Noiron

    Rain like no tomorrow

    September 9, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    I woke up to rain, and stayed in the tent till it let up a bit. Rolled up the wet tent in a drizzle, and set off from the forest. The road was shiny and wet and I pedaled on hoping for a break.

    By the time I got to large monument at Arc-et-Senan, I was already dripping wet. The supermarket had a cafe in the front, so I took shelter there with fresh bread, a gazpacho and chocolate eclair. The rain outside became a downpour, splashing and washing Schopper outside.

    I cycled out again when it reduced, but it never stopped. I went past more pastures, rode along the Doubs for a bit and then turned off near the village of Noiron to camp on some luscious grass. Just before sunset, the sky lets the sun shine through. Just enough to feel the magic of a golden evening.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Cathedral in Gray
    Along the SaoneSaone camp

    Along the Saone

    September 10, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Waking up to a green bubble of fresh dew and chill breeze, i thought once again my thanks to experience the basic pleasure of nature. This did mean having to pack up my things rather wet.

    I cycled to Gray, a lovely town with a history that I didn't take the time to explore. A nice warm meal and a coffee later, I set off cycling along the Saone river. Today the rain was light but the air got heavy with moisture. I stopped for the night at a tranquil spot by the river.Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Drenched and coldCanal de VosgesFréderic the author travelerA dry sanctuaryFontenoy le Chateau

    Fontenoy le Chateau

    Sep 11–12, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The sky had already turned gray and started to leak in the morning. A big spiral storm in the north sea was sweeping its tentacles of rain across the map of France. As I cycled along the Canal de Vosges, my jacket gave up in keeping the rain out. My shoes and socks were dripping wet. When my hands were so cold that they struggled to press the brakes, I knew this was the limit.

    I got a ready and friendly welcome from Fréderic in Fontenoy le Chateau. He welcomed me to his basic home, but hey it was dry.

    "Are you named like Arjuna, the character in the Mahabharata?"

    The first person in these seven months who knew that. We immediately set about having a long chat about Sanskrit & Indo-European languages, the symbolism in mythology and of our travel tales. Fréderic was very well informed about the history of cycling and languages and more. He had just published another book of his travels. I finally slept, dry and warmed by the engaging conversation and company. A good compensation for having completed 6000 km today.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Camp spot by the riverFancy Nancy2Insect clouds2Rolling fly trapLake camp

    Mostly Moselle

    September 13, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    After a camp along the river, the ride along the Moselle is mainly alongside the canal rather than the river. With the sun finally shining down, it reveals a beautiful green and flat landscape.

    I reached Nancy to enjoy a beer in the famed Place Stanisla. Except that we were hit by an express hailstorm pelting down painful ice pellets.

    Further along the river, the air looked thick and smokey. My confusion was clarified when I crashed through a cloud of countless little insects. The air was thick with them, and I held my breath and pursed my lips to not inhale the insects. Weird and exciting.

    Soon after, I met Nathaniel sitting by the river. He's been riding for 1.5 years and we exchange notes on our journeys. We agree that this is the best way to experience a country. But he's camping next to the highway, so I rode out further till I found a tranquil spot by a lake.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    12

    Meditative Moselle

    September 14, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The Moselle cycle path is a good one for meditation. It is so easy and flat that I am constantly lost in long trains of thought. Then I snap out of it to see - oh more flat riding. I'm sure Kiran would have found it boring. Maybe the large industrial structures and coal barges would have been of interest.

    The sky has cleared after the storm and the sunset was wonderful at my camp along the river.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Bettembourg
    Ikel and Mathias from Bremen!Vennbahnweg1

    Luxusbourg

    September 16, 2024 in Luxembourg ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I'm not sure when exactly, but I had pedaled into Luxembourg. Over some small farmland path I suppose. I rode till Bettembourg and stopped for lunch and look at the map. There were only a few disconnected bike paths squeezed in between a tight bundle of roads. So I took advantage of the free public transport and hopped over to the north. Though it was sunny, I watched the land pass by through the window.

    It had been 9 days since a warm shower, so I looked for this luxury in Luxembourg. At the campsite in Troisvierge, I met two other cycle tourists Ikel and Mathias. They were from Horn-Lehe! A few streets down from my place in Bremen, and here we meet the first time in Luxembourg.

    Over breakfast, we had a long exchange that also covered our bicycles.
    "Nice wide tires, you happy with them?", Mathias asked.
    "Yeah, they are comfy"
    "How many punctures have you had?"
    "Zero. None from the outside.", I said thinking back to the splinter inside the tire that had caused trouble in Slovenia.
    "Good good. Well, have a good ride!"

    I set off in the opposite direction to them, thinking also about the conversation with my brother about flat tires as he was getting ready for his own cycle tour. Soon I reached the start of the abandoned railway line.    Read more

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