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Rolling on Europe
  • Arjun
  • Arjun

Rolling on Europe

Rolling about the continent looking for an exit. Read more
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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Sea balls covered the beach here
    The seagrass inspired him up posePosidonia parkour

    Prince of Posidonia

    April 19, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We halted for the night in a campground in Fertilia. Right opposite is the beach, so we headed over as soon as we could.

    The beach is no beach, but just a bed of Posidonia oceanica detritus. Mounds of it lay everywhere, sometimes meters tall and spongey underfoot. This is the classic seagrass of the Med, and we were in a hotspot apparently.

    The whole beach was also littered with these "kiwi du mer". I was puzzled as to what they were, but Kiran explained that these are fibers of the broken-down grass, which then gets "woven" into these balls by the waves. Seemed like an imaginative idea, but I looked it up and he was actually right!

    "Bah oui papa, Posidonia are the lungs of the Mediterranean"

    He had gotten all that from his school trip. And I was the one who had dived and written a paper about them.

    Nature can sure make weird things.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    View of Alghero riding in from the North
    Arrived on to the port sideThe old town had this rather earthy and pleasant colorThe sea wall was fun to watch with the wavesThe ride out of Alghero

    Alghero

    April 20, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We slept in, and slowly made our way to Alghero. A historic fort town with some impressive cathedrals and piazzas, that I failed to photograph. We hung around in a cafe, and watched the sea. We had been learning Italian using an audiobook the last week - Kiran tried out a sentence on the waitress. We were pleased that she got it!

    Eventually when we decided to start riding, it was almost three.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The road to Bosa hugged a wild and rocky coast
    Stopped off for a dip at Poglina beach, a surfer's covePlayed guess what using this cliff facePhilip was the only other cyclist we met today. He couldn't believe a child was riding so well.Saying our goodbyes at BosaThe Bosa marinaPlaying catch at the beach

    Beautiful road to Bosa

    April 20, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    After leaving Alghero, the road turned and twisted its way along the coastal hills. This was simply the most beautiful road I've ridden so far. Stunning and picturesque!

    We felt a sense of privilege to be able to experience this under our own effort.Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    View on to Bosa on the way up
    Looking from the plateau on to the seaFreewheeling was such a joy hereTaking a decisive break, with Montiferro in view

    Plateau to Sennariolo

    April 21, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    A sunny morning egged us uphill to ride on to the plateau above the south of Bosa. The road went gently up a few hundred meters and then continued up on the ridge of the plateau. Beautiful, forgotten roads through the green scrub.

    The desert plants were in roaring bloom. It seems the flowers are most brilliant where there is none to observe them.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The track got marginal but we were in the mood to push on
    Bush tracking for the experienceOne more hike-a-bike section. Next time: wear long pantsInspecting the damage to RockerWe may look like we're being kidnapped, but we're being savedOur angels Roberto and Anna-Laura brought us to a hotel1The hotel heard our story and upgraded us to the best roomTaking time to enjoy the sunsetHe's a force of erosion

    Bushwalk to breakage

    April 21, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We were looking forward to a good long downhill ahead. We thought to take another bush track for fun. It looked marginal, but I said ok.

    This tuned out to be an unexpected challenge. The track soon was just an imagined shadow line between the grass, sometimes waist-high. We had several hike-a-bike sections to traverse. But with only a few hundred meters to go, we pushed on to get to the road.

    On this bushwalk, things started to go wrong. Rocker's chain got stuck hard, and the front tire went flat. No problem, I'll fix it using my tools. Then at the road, I realized I had left the hand pump in Kiran's house when I repacked.

    With the sunset coming, we knew we need help to get off the plateau. We stuck our thumbs out hoping to get a lift. Our angels turned up with a van and brought us to the nearest town. Here a luxury hotel gave us sanctuary, and the succor for our troubles - even if self-inflicted.

    I was amazed by the grit of Kiran. And Schopper. Both of them flexed, but did not creak or buckle, under load. Rocker needs help, but that's not a problem for today. Sunsets and dinners are what we need.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    A beautiful sea view from our room
    Fixing up the flat in RockerTesting out Rocker's new footI love these blooms

    Santa Caterina saves us

    April 22, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After a delicious dinner and a luxurious night of good sleep, we woke up with a better spirit to face the remaining challenge. We found an air pump in the gas station and fixed up Rocker for the ride ahead.

    In the last day, Kiran has observed and learned a lot about dealing with crises. No freaking out. Learn to prioritize problems. Fix them one at a time. And trust in the world around you. It's the best we can do.

    Plus he knows how to fix a flat tire now.

    I'm now a believer in the healing powers of Santa Caterina.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Blue by-the-wind-sailor jellyfish
    Tenacious bloomsPutzu Idu beachSaline where the flamingos gatherA bigger nuraghe than we had seen

    Putzu Idu

    April 22, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    The route to Putzu Idu was inland and rather busy. At least, I didn't want to take the wooded path today. Fighting headwinds, we rolled up at the beach at Putzu Idu. This was a turning point, so good to mark it with a game of catch.Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    1Sometimes you just want to lie down

    Cliffs of Cabras

    April 22, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    The Su Tingiosu cliffs along the Sinis coastline of Cabras are incredibly beautiful. The rough path that goes along them is a challenging but superb cycling track.

    This is the bumpy road of Kiran's dreams. Bella Sardegna, you continue to amaze us!Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Zooming towards the coast
    1La Sala da Ballo

    La Sala da Ballo

    April 23, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    With another storm brewing, I figured it's better to stay on at the same place - but of course, go riding in the wind along the coast.

    We reached a panoramic theater of stone and water. A stone quarry used by the Romans to build the nearby site of Tharros. Named the ballroom because of the parties held there in the 70s apparently.Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The tower of Tharros in the back is our guide
    Kiran looking tiny with these wavesOur track really hugged the water lineView back towards the tower while climbing to Capo San MarcoSniffing and hunting for sandIt checks out - play ball!

    Capo San Marco

    April 23, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    We rode all along the coast till we reached Tharros. The Roman and neolithic site that has attracted groups of motorcyclists and school children. It may be good, but I cannot confirm. We rode past it to the very end of the track at Capo San Marco - and then got off the bikes, walked around the military fence off the lighthouse and bushwalked till the abandoned jetty of La Caletta del Faro - definitely a corner of Sardinia. How else could we play catch with the ball?Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The palazzo - closed
    Display of a sculptor's atelier - closedKiran on Schopper as we rode out

    Sleepy Oristano

    April 24, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Though there was a storm rising, I figured it would be tailwinds till Oristano. So we arrived at the major town around these parts - and found everything closed. Not the kind of calm before the storm I expected, but well, we stocked up and left the next day.Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Lunch at the church in Arborea on Liberation Day
    2Plenty of flamingos around these partsHe got bored of the flat marked cycling trail, so off we went into the sandThe hills on the other side of the lagoonThe single track Ponte di Marceddi across to Costa Verde

    Arborea liberated

    April 25, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    There is a strange porto industriale south on Oristano, which contains a grid of perpendicular Stradas numbered by longitude. Strange because there is very little sign of industry, it seems mostly agro-psstoral and is flat as the lands around Bremen. And seems to have the only marked cycle trail I've seen so far in Sardinia.

    Then in the middle you come up on this town of Arborea, standing impressive with bungalows and churches and flags and lampposts... and dotted with sitting benches every 100 meters.

    We stopped at the church benches for a now-favorite lunch of panino da papa. Several families with old seniors came ambled around and into the church. Today is Liberation Day, when Italy was freed from the fascists.

    "Papa, what means fasheeshts?"
    "Come on kiki, let's play catch now. I'll tell you another day"

    After that, we rode on to the bridge that takes us into Costa Verde.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Riding into Torre dei CorsariStriking a pose at the beach for our arrivalThe flying kikiThe diving kikiThe climbing kikiThe torre that gives the name hereView on to Costa Verde hills from the hotel

    Torre dei Corsari

    April 25, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    This little town is surrounded by huge sand dunes and a massive beach. We headed straight there, while waiting to find out where we could sleep.

    Kiran screamed at the ocean, ran up and down the dunes, and jumped around till his shorts were full of sand.

    A grand arrival in Costa Verde!    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Freewheeling the Costa VerdeView on to Campu Sali beachJumping in to the waves at Campu SaliRiding on again felt much better!

    Dip at Campu Sali

    April 26, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Green hills rough with scrub forest flow past us. Sometimes, rather slowly because of the uphill sections. The storm is away and the sun is out.

    We stopped off for a beach picnic at a beach. Another stunning vista in bella Sardegna. The water was too tempting to resist, and we jumped in to the chill waters. Superb refreshing dip! Now, we could ride on - after playing catch.Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Taking frequent breaks is recommended
    The dunes took over one side of the landscapeRiding between dunes to the beachKiran reveling in his 0% beer

    Dunes at Piscinas

    April 26, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A few good uphills and downhills later, we were on a bumpy track. We had gone off route. We could turn back and retrace the 500 m, or.... Onwards we pushed into the scrub.

    With the recent lessons in the back of my mind, we rode over gravel and rock trails. It seemed popular with motorcyclists who were earning their off-road credentials - nodding at Kiran with "Bravi, bravi!".

    The path ran into a little river, bright red. Likely from the tailings of the mines that this area was famous for. With a group of leather-clad motorists looking on, we forged the shallow part of the river and rode on with shoes that were wet, but maybe now less salty.

    We were now in a steep valley between giant sand dunes. This path headed straight for the beach. We landed with relief, and cold drinks. For the first time, we were sharing the beach with others. Some 15 others groups sat about scattered on this massive beach. We played catch and sand wrestled and dived and swam some more. We stopped when we were tired, I think, from all the laughing.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Kiran getting a hand from an e-bike rider
    Gravel path up to IngurtosuOld mining towns built into in the hills, now abandonedThe track beyond Pitzinurri was a rough ride. Even for pushing bikes.From Gannamari, we were able to see the sea again. How far and high we had come!The wind had picked up, but we got to ride down in style - and aloneThese flowers glowed so much that they hurt the eyesWe arrived at the 'next' beach Scivu. No turtles laying eggs here today.

    Unexpectedly Pitzinurri

    April 27, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We stayed at the camping in Sciopadroxiu, as it was close enough to get to after our beach games. After a dinner that was far more delicious than I expected, we went to bed with the plans of a simple ride to the next beach tomorrow in our minds.

    Those visions were shattered in the morning. There was no coastal route to Scivu beach. A shoreline of rocks and scrub had not allowed a road. Maybe also because there is a penitentiary in the middle. What a scenic and natural location to be imprisoned in!

    So we have to climb up to Ingurtosu, and then to the abandoned mining town of Pitzinurri. This was our 'chance' to get into mining country of these green mountains.

    We reached the high point of Gannamari, where we could see how far and high from the beach we had come. And were going back down to it!

    The road down was a freewheeling thrill, but also lubricated with the relief of being done with the uphill. We reached Scivu beach, which is a natural outpost where sea turtles lay their eggs. We found none, but maybe a sea snake. We had big plans at the next stop, but we stayed back to enjoy some well-earned swimming and playing catch.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Buggerru at sunset
    Flat road are useless with strong headwindsHappy Birthday Papa!Too craggy to even push RockerBuggerru is like a rocky crater with a MarinaThe plateau out of Buggerru was desolateUphill means more time to admire the rocksThis road is a just a slit in the green scrub1Coming up towards the top of the climb!

    Buggerru bash

    April 27, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We wanted to get to Buggerru, as we had planned to celebrate the eve of my birthday with beach time and a special dinner. The route out of Scivu was hard though. I knew we had overstayed by walking the entire length, Kiran in waist-deep water.

    The route to Buggerru was hard with headwinds and rocky slopes and hurt legs. In our hilly adventures, we had forgotten lunch. So our mood got sullen, we stumbled and hurt our legs and were snappy. So I made an emergency papa wrap sitting in the bush, and that let us go on.

    We reached Buggerru as the sun set. We still went for a fancy dinner, clinked glasses (sprite and gin basil smash) and went to bed late. We got an eve of the birthday treat after all!

    We wanted to have a birthday bash in Buggerru. But we got bashed instead. Such is the road life.

    Next morning, we had another go at a fancy lunch. Then we took the hard way out of Buggerru. This route just turned off from the town center and climbed out straight into the rocky hills. Buggerru is a town set in a sheer rock port, as stunning as any Norwegian fjord town.

    We decided, for the first time, to avoid bush tracks and we took the roadway. We climbed and climbed and climbed up till Montecani. This was deep in the Costa Verde slopes!    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    A beautiful large Velvet Ant1View towards MasauOnto the trail to IglesiasThe old smelting works on the Camino MinerarioRemains of mining activity maybe

    Meandering past Masau

    April 28, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    The road down to Masau is the definition of meandering! What beautiful vistas that pop into view, only to be obscured again by the next face of the sheer rock walls. This was much loved by the motorbikers; we felt we were in a posse on this road.

    After a well-earned gelato or three, we rode past Masau to take the road towards Iglesias. There awaited Kiran's surprise birthday gift for me.

    We ended up on a section of the Camino Minerario again, which actually went past old mining furnaces and brick works. We picked up a couple of keepsake pebbles from the Funtana Coperto (copper fountain) for our mineral collections. Without visiting any of the museums, we had experienced more of this mining country and understood some of their hardships on these wild slopes.

    Onwards to Iglesias!    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Palazzo per Papa!
    1The reveal2He ran around exclaiming how luxus it is1I got to play king for a few minutes

    Palazzo per Papa

    April 28, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Kiran had been asking how we were going to celebrate my birthday. He wished that we could have a "really luxus place for my papa". So that's what I arranged. Except it was his gift for me, but a surprise for him.

    Here we were in a deluxe hotel in Iglesias, which was our palace for an evening. He was so pleased. It's funny how after all these outdoor days, a little plush and pretty can overwhelm.

    My other birthday gift from him? A conversation together in Italian: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mV6tyN4mtU7eHijF8 (video here)

    I'm pleased with how much we learnt in 10 days.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The boys are back in a train after a long time
    We sat around and hoped.

    Dumped in Macomer

    April 29, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Me: "So, where should we go next?"
    K: "Let's take the ferry to Africa! And then we can cycle there"
    "Hmm, what are the pros and cons of this plan?"
    "We can go ride in Africa. It will be so good! But my school teacher will kill me!"
    "But how will she find you in Africa? You can escape with your bicycle"
    "Oh yeah! But what about maman?"

    After a strident debate that covered many points, we decided that it's better to not tackle Africa at the moment. So instead, we agreed to take the train and ferry back up north.

    Except the train switched to a bus connection in Macomer. We hurried with our bikes to the bus. The woman driver vehemently shook her head with "Non!" to indicate that the bus was already full. Then she drove off, with us few passengers being unceremoniously dumped by the station in Macomer.

    After an hour of sitting around it seemed like maybe the Africa plan was better, after all.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Riding on to the ferry back to Toulon
    Arrival in Toulon the next morningCroissant & baguette? Mais bien sûr!

    Ciao Sardegna!

    April 29, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The next bus driver arrived, preparedly grumpy, and told us we cannot take the bicycles on the bus. I protested that we had called the station to confirm. He said no, and led me to a notice stuck behind two other notices on the wall of the station. I insisted that we have to go. Eventually, he relented and we squeezed Schopper and Rocker into the bay and the bus headed out. Being on the road improved the driver's mood, and he even brought us to Porto Torres. Kiran had a good lesson in dealing with adversity, but he still thinks panic is a good option as a response.

    After we ensured sufficient ball catching had occurred in Porto Torres, we ate our last gelatos for the trip and boarded the ferry back to France.

    Kiran rode on to the ferry in style. A style he had earned. He had ridden out of his village for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Here we had reached the south of Sardinia, having covered 590 km by bicycle. Great start to a cycle touring career!

    It felt like a month has passed, though the calendar says it's only been nine days here. It's a side-effect of living along the dimension of effort instead of time. And this felt like a month of stunning beaches and challenging hills and playing ball. What a great island!

    Addio Sardegna. Fino alla prossima volta!    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Kiran riding against the grain
    Liberté!Serving at the Indian restaurant1Hugs before we part for now

    Au revoir à Valence

    April 30, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We arrived by train in Valence. Here it was time to clean up, repack our bags and say goodbye. Kiran is back with his mom... and in the jurisdiction of his school teacher.

    It has been a great experience to ride together. And a wonderful discovery to learn that he's a superb cyclist. We will hope to be riding together again!Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Route along the Isere
    Roman sur IsereNeat view of the hydroelectric plant

    Riding along Isère

    May 3, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Even though the sky has not fully cleared, the rain has passed. So I got on to the saddle today, and rode out of Valence.

    I found my way to the Isère river and followed the bicycle track along it. The path winds through mostly farmland and the occasional village. In the distance are the views of the rocky peaks of the Vercors.

    Out of habit, I looked several times in the mirror to see if Kiran was doing ok. I miss my little rider.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    Watching the sunset and deciding about camp
    Camp at the golden cliffs

    Golden Cliffs Camp

    May 3, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After a good day of riding, I found a picnic bench near Saint Marcellin with a great view on to the rockface on the other side of the river. Over a dinner of harissa-laced veggie wraps with local cheese, I figured it would be the view I'd like to sleep with tonight.

    I found a walnut orchard in Saint Sauveur that went to the edge of the river. So I set up camp there, and watched the sun turn the rocks to molten gold and the red kites to glowing soaring spirits. There is a waterfall on the opposite side, but it spurts out from the middle of the rock. The river is still and a blueish slate-gray, a weird contrast to the sunset.    Read more

  • ArjunRolling on EuropeTraveler
    The walnut orchards in the plains under the peaks
    Friends of the road: Tommy, Leo and DanielThe cable car of Grenoble descends to the centerIsère and the mounts dominate the city centerThe many-eyed foxA quirky ladies band played cool musicThe clouds began to gather around evening

    Grenoble

    May 4, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The route past Saint Marcellin was along the river, pleasant and lined with walnut orchards. The veloroute was livelier this sunny weekend. At the picnic table, I met a group of friendly Ardechois, one of whom was embarking on a five month trip.

    We rode together till Grenoble. The route gets boxed in more and more by towering rocky mountains from all sides, some of it capped in bright white snow. The prominence of these peaks is impressive and makes for a dramatic setting for Grenoble.    Read more

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