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Rolling on Europe
  • Arjun
  • Arjun

Rolling on Europe

Rolling about the continent looking for an exit. En savoir plus
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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Kranjska Gora3Lake Jasna

    Dober dan Slovenia!

    23 juin 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After a coffee in Tarvisio, I completed the loop around the mountain to enter Slovenia and reach the border town of Kranjska Gora. I was aching and tired, so I decided to get some luxurious rest in a hotel. I moaned in delight in the hot shower. The last one was a couple of weeks ago.

    Kranjska Gora is a cute town, with ski lifts and biking trails going into the Julian Alps. On my walk to lake Jasna, I met Annemarie & Annika, two dutch women on the trail. We talked and walked, and as the lake was so picturesque, we had dinner there.

    Sleeping in a soft and clean bed felt like a celebration. Maybe a good way to celebrate a ride of 4000 kilometers now.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Russian Chapel1Vršič pass

    Over Vršič pass

    24 juin 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I find the vibe in this Slovenian town very charming. The people chat in a laid-back, friendly way, and are eager to help. Very good first impressions. A friendly bike guy used cable ties to hold together Schopper's fender, and told me about the lost territories of the country during first world war.

    I then set off to climb Slovenia's highest mountain pass. The road to Vršič pass climbs through the Triglav National Park. The forested hills provide green shade and cool - but not much use against the steep grades to get up there. It's a grueling climb in parts, but I pumped away till I got to the top at 1611 m. A picnic beer later, I was speeding down the other side with beautiful views of the Julian Alps!    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    3
    222Soča sunset

    Splendid Soča

    24 juin 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The road down from the pass towards Trenta uncoils rather gently, providing a long and relaxed downhill glide through the valley of the Soča river. I switched to the gravel path of the Soča trail, and that took me deeper into the forests and the hills.

    The Soča valley is a very fine mosaic of rocks, trees and rivers in the Triglav park. At this bathing spot the elements come together in a particularly aesthetic way: smooth rounded pebbles of the riverbed under water so clear you look again to check, the tall rocky mountains with the green trees and scrub growing straight off them, rope bridges to walk across above the glimmering water and the cool shade in the trees on the banks. The sun kisses this special spot in the Soča valley.

    My inner poet struggles to describe the charm and beauty of this valley. Splendid Soča!    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    2

    Stol pass

    25 juin 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    After a beautiful morning dip in the Soča river, I decided to try to cross the Stol pass. It is considered a tough but beautiful gravel passage. The climb up to Sedlo Ucja at 710 m was on fine asphalt. And then the path went up wobbly gravel up to 1400 m to Stol pass. Seems like the path exists for the one farm with 10 cows on top.

    The descent was so much tougher, with loose rocks and gravel requiring a lot of attentive braking. It felt like my kidneys had ended up in my ribs with my brain. I'm impressed Schopper made it through all that in one piece. I understand the technical challenge, but gravel riding keeps me looking at my wheels rather than the landscape around.

    I glided down to Kobarid for a well-earned burger. Also because all the shops were closed for the Statehood day holiday. I settled for camping at Gabrje next to the river.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Babja Jama cave2Markus & GiroKanal

    Forest caves & river beaches

    26 juin 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It was well after noon when I set out from Gabrje. This was going to be a slow day, stopping for lunch & shops in Tomlin.

    The bike path I was on went away from the river and climbed up into the hills. A single freehand-painted board pointed into the forest. So I left Schopper by the path and followed the forest trail, clearly not maintained. It went steeply down to one of many caves of Slovenia, where an old river has eroded its way through the limestone substrate. The air at the cave was so cool and refreshing. The little cliffs at the river made me chill there for longer.

    When I huffed my way back up to my bike, Giro was waiting for me wondering if I'm ok. He said the rock section ahead was very hard, and he and Markus thought that I had trouble and came to help. These two 18 year olds from Potsdam, having finished their abitur, were off on a bike tour. And had brought their civil courage with them. Brav!

    We rode together till Kanal where they had a campsite. They had gotten curious about nature camping, maybe they'll try it. After swimming and washing in the river beach at Kanal, I rode out further along the Soča for more views and a chill camp spot. I think this is the prettiest river I've ever seen.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    1
    Massimo the bicycle doctor3

    Schopper breaks a leg

    27 juin 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Two of Schopper's rear spokes had snapped in the last two days. The tread on the rear tire is also worrying. Schopper needs some care, so I headed to Nova Gorica to find a bicycle doctor.

    Massimo at X Bike Servis had an expert look. Turns out that the rear rim had cracked apart. That explains the snapped spokes. So I went hunting for a new rim, which he then set about preparing.

    While Schopper was in the hospital, I climbed up to a Franciscan monastery. I found a cistern of blagoslovljeno vodo (blessed water), so I drank from it and went to lay down under a tree. Surely this will help. When I returned, Massimo had Schopper fixed up like new. A day of repair and care was successful. The little blue guy was ready to roll again!

    So I cycled out to the Vogeršček reservoir and found a lovely camp spot. As I watched the sunset, there were deer running at speed in the forest. This was followed by guttural growls and screeches, which is still going on. Maybe I will have to keep an eye out tonight.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    So many juicy peachesBeautiful terrace on Vipava

    Vipava trail

    28 juin 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I spent the day riding the Vipava trail. Had not heard of it but it seemed to zigzag far away from any cities, so off I went. I spent this 35⁰ C day climbing gravel uphill. There were no other bicyclists on this trail, I wonder why.

    This was a gravel path going through peach and wine country. It's interesting to see the land transition from forest to farm. I had 3 or 4 swims in the Vipava each chance I got.

    When I arrived in the eponymous town, I found a beautiful restaurant with a terrace overlooking bright green algae in the river. There were large trout and carp swimming around. This seemed like the place to end my Vipava ride. I got talking to Luka, a large and friendly guy from Ljubljana. In the short amount of time that is two beers, we spoke of everything from fishing to tattooed librarians to scrap metal depositing to the history of Samarkand.

    Feeling happy at the way this ride ended, I left the restaurant and got on Schopper. What's this? A flat tire! Argh, not now. I went to the gas station a few minutes before they closed. So I got to try finding and fixing the hole in the tire under the watchful and impatient gaze of the station attendants. With six hands, we got it done within a few minutes and they were off on their way before I finished my thanks.

    This made my day even more eventful than I had wanted. I scouted for a place to sleep in town - and met a farmer who was ok with me pitching my tent. There was a little stream next to the spot! So I got to wash up and cool down from this terrifically hot day before going to sleep.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur

    White haze

    29 juin 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    A second day of the heat wave, with weather warnings of 35⁰ C at the peak. I rode out past noon from Vipava, and took a rather less gravelly road that went up this hill and down that other.

    This day was a white hot haze. I think I took just the one photo. I remember jumping into water each time I saw a river - but it wasn't often enough. I was feeling dizzy in the evening. I found a forest in Karst - this is the region that the rock gets its name from - and settled down to cool and sleep off the sunstroke.En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    1
    1

    Skocjan caves

    30 juin 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Mulling about these Karst rocks in the morning, I discovered that I was not far from the Skocjan caves. They are famous and sounded quite special, so I decided to go check it out. At the least, it would be cooler inside a cave.

    The Skocjan caves feature a grand canyon cut out by the Reka river, but all of it deep underground. The river plunges down underground and doesn't emerge for 40 km till just before joining the sea. It is a sublime experience for a rock lover to walk along a plunging canyon 50 m above a frothing buzzing river, while 60 m above is a rock roof festooned with dripstone columns and curtains and a million other forms - all of this 150 m below ground!

    This is one of the largest underground canyons anywhere in the world. One of only four caves in the world listed as UNESCO natural heritage sites. No photos were allowed through the canyon tour, so it is good to have been here. Such a place of shadow and water and rock and mad exploration needs to be experienced. So I just walked through it in awe, and took some photos on the exit walk. This was special enough that I bought, I think, my first ticket to visit something on this rock and roll trip.

    After the cave I read the placards about the first explorers having gone in more than 200 years ago, with candles and lamps. The paths they built are incredible. And how the river flooded the cavern in 1965, with the water level rising by 90 m within 2 days!

    I felt like I had to now go experience the river I've felt the presence of all day. So even though it made no sense for my direction of travel, I descended in the forest and went for a swim in the Reka. Then I climbed back up and went for a three-course traditional meal to wind up the day.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Delightful Italian patticeria
    Beach at KoperIzolaPiranPiran lighthouseOn the border with Croatia

    Coastal way to Piran

    1 juillet 2024, Slovénie ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    A cyclist in Vipava had told me about a cool route through the Istrian peninsula. A historic railway track that was now a thematic cycling track. He looked at Schopper and said "you have the right tires for it at least".

    I had dithered and delayed on descending down to the coast, but decided to join the Parenzana trail which starts near Trieste. I freewheeled down from the Karst plateau through the forested hills (wheeeee) to arrive at my first view of the Adriatic sea. It was surprisingly warm and made for a relaxing swim.

    I followed the coastal bicycle route, marveling at all these buildings and highway overpasses. I had not seen any urban area in a while now, and I was fascinated at the change. Well, for the first half hour anyway before I remembered that's where traffic is heavy.

    I rode all through - what is still left of - the Slovenian coast thanks to the EV8 path. I stopped off for swims and drinks in Koper, in Izola and other little locations. Finally I reached Piran, a beautiful and historic town and rode through tiny alleys to the lighthouse at the very tip of a peninsula. As I sat sipping a spritzer to admire the open sea, the sky closed up and got dark. The Adriatic had put together a thunderstorm for my arrival.

    I rode off towards Sicciole to find shelter under some trees. I had to find safety from wild life - a swarm of mosquitoes hung about the tent colliding against the mesh. As I sat and ate an 'indoor' dinner, I realized I had just crossed over the border from Slovenia.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Salterns at Sicciole
    1Parenzana viewsPiemonte train station1Parenzana tunnels have interesting lightingTruffle washMotovun

    Parenzana rail trail

    2 juillet 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The Parenzana railway track in Croatia takes off into the hills of Istria. This railway track was a pioneering effort as all these tunnels and bridges and overpasses were built in 1902. An impressive achievement, before it was taken down in the 1930s. Strange that it rather went through the hills rather than connect the large populations along the coast.

    The hill towns in Istria are a bit weird as they sit on the very top of the hills, like a mushroom crown, above the forest and green scrub in the valleys. This got more prominent inland as also the tunnels and bridges got longer.

    The cycling gravel track is cool, and is a good mix between forest rides, panoramic views and historic themed trail. The path splayed out on top of the hillside like a piece of wet spaghetti, swirling about in little loops and going apparently nowhere. Arriving at an old abandoned railway station in the middle of nowhere after an hour of cycling really drives home the absurdity and the courage of the Parenzana railway.

    Istria is world famous for its truffles. So I sat down to eat some at Livade. The taste is fine, but I don't really understand why truffles costs more than a cake of hashish dipped in a coating of cocaine and printer ink. So after this luxury meal, I go wash up in the river like a hobo and feel good.

    I found a good lookout point to camp at as the sunset painted the clouds pink and orange over the town of Motovun perched atop the hill.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    1Time for a break
    New railway trailPlomin Luka bay

    Plomin Luka beach bar

    3–4 juil. 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I wanted to get an earlier start out on the hills. So when I packed up and got on the bike, there it was - a flat rear tire again. Hmm seems the valve has jiggled loose. I pumped it back up and decided to check properly at the next gas station, which was at Pazin some 15 km over gravel roads.

    After a great pizza and a wonderful craft beer from local brewery, I came out to check that the rear tire is indeed flat. What do local craft beers do to this tire? So I got to have another refreshment at the gas station, yippee, while giving the inside of the new rim a good wipe.

    The ride down from Pazin was great, but instead of a wide blue view, there's a mountain range fencing off the sea. I figure that after this long hot day, getting to the water is a priority. So I go down the hill to a little bay of Plomin Luka. After a swim and a shower, I get some craft beers at the beach bar. Cool vibes here, and they say I can camp for the night. Will the curse of craft beers be broken finally, or will I wake up to a flat tire?    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Plomin Bay
    2212Rijeka hostel view

    Plomin Bay to Rijeka

    4 juillet 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The coastal road to Plomin provides a stunning view of the bay with the azure sky reflected in the Adriatic. The little sea breeze went a long way in tempering the sun. The day was spent meandering left and right, hugging the coast as I left the Istrian peninsula and reached Rijeka.

    Rijeka is a major coastal city here, with ports, railway lines and busy streets. The waterfront was busy with pretty people chilling and wining and dining. So I pretended to be well dressed too and joined them. Rijeka is a city so major and stretched out along the coast, that there are no camping options here.

    At the hostel by the port, I met an American-Swiss couple Marcus and Marianne out for a 4-month tour on their tandem bicycle. It was great chatting with them. He has bicycled everywhere, across the USA twice, in India, from Portugal to Turkey. Good to end this day finally meeting other spirited slow travelers. And knowing that the craft beer curse seemed to be lifted!    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Split old townDiocletian palace42No-wheels ride

    A Split Reunion

    6–8 juil. 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I had a rendezvous at Split, but it was too far over too many hills to get there in time. So I explored using the train. The only way to get Schopper on the train seemed to be first go to Zagreb (!) to then catch the night sleeper train to Split. Like the many times in India, the gentle rocking of the train put me into a deep deep sleep.

    Split is a major tourist hub. The tourists were milling around in the port and the old town even though it was just after 7 am. The Roman ruins are quite well preserved, and another layer of the old city had just been built around it. After 1000+ years of civilization, it is now a way to sell trinkets and ice creams at inflated prices.

    The next morning I saw Kiran and Sabine walk through the airport with a large box. Spent the day at the building up Rocker and buying more cycling gear for Kiran and me. The crew was back together again!    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Heat break before we start
    Castle on the waterFerry loungeOn Brač island

    Hop to Brač

    8 juillet 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We had packed the essentials for a bicycle tour of the Dalmatian islands: tennis balls, frisbee and swimwear. To get away from Split, we had to go into it first. This meant some horrible city and highway traffic that was either parallel to or driving with us. We took bicycle detours where we could, till we reached the port. What a hot and sunny day to be starting for Kiran.

    "Do you want to go look at some amazing Roman ruins?"
    "No, let's just look at the boats."
    Civilization needs to do more to be relevant to us.

    We went on board the ferry to Supetar on Brač island. We headed straight out of town along the coast, and could immediately feel the slower pace and relaxed space of Island life. We jumped into beaches and swam and played catch.

    Kiran was game for it, so we tried to find a natural camp spot. There in a forest next to the clear blue waters was a good spot to pitch the tent. He said in his cute accent, "This is really freedom papa!". As we lay down to sleep in the tent, I smiled on how our first day back on the road was ending.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Great beach to play catchPučišćaPučišća marinaCamping at the light house

    White Stone Pučišća

    9–10 juil. 2024, Croatie ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    This day was a blur of beaches and swimming and riding gravel tracks. On an island with few roads, we're never far from a place to jump into the cool cool water. So we did.

    We rode in to Pučišća, which was recommended by many. The seaside architecture showcases the white stonework that Brač island is famous for. I think the White House in the USA had stones sourced from here. It makes a nice backdrop for swimming in the cool waters.

    After a dinner back at the marina, we decided to camp at the light house that was down the track leading to the pointy end of the land here. What a fantastic sunset to watch as I put up the tent. And then the horrible smell! Seems the wastewater system reservoir was not far off. Luckily the smell went away pretty quickly when it came. After a picnic of nuts and chocolate on the rocks by the water, we went to sleep in the tent - still sweating from the heat. The lowest temperature in the night will be 28⁰ C. We couldn't open the tent flap for the mosquitoes either. We slept terribly this night.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    View on to Bol1

    To Bol and hop to Jelsa

    10 juillet 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    To make the best of a bad situation, we rode out in the wee hours of the morning. We were awake anyway, and maybe we could escape the midday heat. We dusted off the spiders and rode out to climb up and cross the hill to get to the other side of the island.

    It was already hot at 8 am, but the shadows were still long to ride in from time to time. This landscape is just rocks and scrub and olive trees and spider webs. We climbed up several hundred meters, with Kiran feeling his legs out of form. We finally reached the top and could enjoy a beautiful downhill ride with the splendid blue sea popping into and out of view as we rolled to Bol.

    Bol has the famous golden horn cape beach, the 'symBol of the Adriatic'. It looks interesting on the map with a long protruding tongue of land. On the ground, it was full of sunbathers and parasailing and thai massages. We swam a bit and found shade under the trees to nap a little.

    Later we went to Bol port to find a boat to Jelsa on the adjacent island of Hvar. Yes, we did play catch in the beach water waiting at the port. In Jelsa, we found a guest room with air conditioning. Tonight, we sleep cool and comfy and only slightly smelly, like kings!    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    This hike-a-bike better be worth itPrapratna coveVrboska marinaSkinny dipping cove

    Prapatna and Vrboska

    11–12 juil. 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    When I squinted, I spotted a thin line on the map along the blue. This turned out to be a scrunchy rocky track running along the splendid blue sea. We jumped into beaches along the way, till we came to a major uphill section on loose gravel. A hard slog that brought us to the beach of Uvala Prapatna. It turned out to be a beautiful cove, so we lingered to picnic, swim and play catch. Feels good to manifest destinations like this that had no name when we started.

    On the way back, the beach bar where we have a chill drink is playing Alan Parsons remix of Eye in the sky. The music in this part of the world is always in some dislocated mood and time. Lots of old rock and pop and the sudden bangers.

    We then picked up our bags and rode out the grand 4 km to Vrboska. We found a shaded spot for the tent in an olive orchard. Having the time, we went to a natural cove and went swimming naked under the moonlight. Kiran was super pleased with the experience. A chill tranquil experience in nature that had us smiling and sighing as we climbed into the tent feeling much cooler.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Road to Stari Grad
    1Water is joyJust a slice

    The Stari Grad Crisis

    12–13 juil. 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    This morning I found Kiran waking up in a lousy mood. It seems the night was not so cool after all and he had not slept well despite the moonlight swim.

    "I don't want to cycle anymore", he said with tears in his eyes. "It's too hot and I can't do it."

    He was not wrong. It was very hot, with the night temperature only dropping to 28⁰ C. I had not seen cloud cover in two weeks, which set the noontime oven to 35⁰ C and no sea breeze at all. Yesterday, he was so happy when in the water, or tackling a tricky gravel section - but here he was miserable hunched up on a rock in a field which was getting hotter by the minute.

    We both needed good sleep. So till the night temperature is cooler, we can't rely on camping. We spoke for a while and found a compromise to continue cycling to the next town and get a room again.

    The road to Stari Grad was already baking hot. These 'bicycling paths' have no facilities really. Just before town we came up on a lone water tap. We drenched ourselves and the cool water made us giddy with joy. We stopped at a fruit stall and inhaled a juicy sweet watermelon. It was so good, we took a slice big as a log with us. The rest of the day was spent in siestas and at the beach till night fell and we retreated to the cool room.

    The Stari Grad crisis was currently averted. Maybe this was a down day that happens to any hard traveler. While he slept, I lay in bed worrying about the trip ahead. I tried to find a cooler place for us to escape this heat.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Pre-ride preparations
    Marcus & MarianneCool climbing wallLeaving M&M at their camp

    Crew ride to Hvar

    13 juillet 2024, Croatie ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Kiran was in a much better mood this morning. Twelve hours of sleep can do that for anybody. Our plans for riding in the early morning cool to the next town of Hvar would not be - but no matter, I was glad we had slept well.

    While hanging out in the square of Petra Hektorivica, a great writer and son of the island, I saw two riders on a tandem bike. Here were Marcus and Marianne, the friendly couple I had met at the Mad-Max hostel in Rijeka. We sit down to chat about our trips, and Kiran takes a liking to them.

    They're surprised and pleased to hear that I had cracked the code of how to take bicycles on the passenger only catamarans further south, and avoid returning to Split. So that meant they were also going to ride to Hvar port and we decided to ride as a crew. This pleased Kiran very much, the social boy rider.

    Hvar port was on the other side of the hill, so we decided to traverse it in the evening. Our route brought us to a 2 km long tunnel that had only a single lane, not great for bicycles. We attached lamps and reflectors on ourselves and got ready to traverse the tunnel. It turned out to be easy enough with the few cars even crossing to the opposite lane to overtake. Kiran's nervousness turned into happiness as we zipped through the tunnel as a tight convoy of colorful and decorated bicyclists.

    A picturesque but also blinding downhill brought us to Hvar. We left M & M at their campsite. Kiran was a bit bummed and asked if we would meet again. "Maybe the road brings us together, it's already happened once" I said to him as we rode to our room in Hvar. He enjoyed riding as a crew and these travel encounters.

    We went for a night walk to look at the port lights, and were totally unready for the buzz of activity in the center of this quiet town. Full of fancy clubs and scantily dressed and drunk pizza-wielding British tourists, I felt like I had stepped into an alternate dimension. With my single t-shirt and shorts, I was simultaneously under and over dressed for this bacchanalia. We took the way back through the labyrinth of stone stairs and tiny alleys back to our dimension of tired and well-earned sleep.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Soline was our home for 2 nights1Benedictine monastery on the island was built in the 12th century!Polače Bay

    Mljet National Park

    14–16 juil. 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    "Oooh there it is! There it is papa!", he said pointing at the approaching boat. The catamaran that would take us from Hvar to Mljet was surprisingly fast for its size.

    Mljet National Park is a green oasis in this baking hot coast. The park covers the southern third of the island with lush green forests and hosts two connected marine lakes. No motor vehicles in the whole national park - so a bicycling beach paradise. At least, I hoped it would be because this was my plan for refueling our soul.

    We spent two nights here swimming across lakes and channels, or bicycling the shaded paths around the lakes and looking at the underwater life. Kiran saw his first octopus in the wild!    En savoir plus

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    Catch up with M&M for a swim + chat2

    Dubrovnik

    17–18 juil. 2024, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    In Dubrovnik, the pearl of the Adriatic, the old fort town is beautiful, thronged with visitors, and has an extravagant candy store.

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Riding cliffs
    Traffic congestionA mountain stream, finally!1Ivitsa the friendly farmer1Cool curry and sunset

    Cool curry camp

    18–19 juil. 2024, Croatie ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We rode out of Dubrovnik battling an ear infection (me), fatigue (Kiran) and impatient car drivers (both). The EV8 runs just along the highway, with no separate lanes for bicycles. So I performed some map wizardry, and found back roads that took us sometimes nowhere, but mostly parallel to the coastal highway to Cavtat and beyond. We probably only did 3 km with traffic, and the rest of the time was either riding cliffs or in desolate valley roads and alleys.

    Near Lovorno, my wistful dreams came true: a stream with cold, fresh water from the mountains! We dunked water on us, jumped in to bathe and Kiran squealed in delight, "So this is what you were talking about papa. I was thinking it would be good, but not THIS good!". I asked a farmer if we could stay there, and he replied by filling up my bike helmet with plucked fruits. This made a nice dessert after the yummy Indian food I had cooked this morning.

    With the mountain stream, the sunset and the curry dinner, we had the feeling of things coming together in a beautiful plan. It was cool enough in the tent that we needed sheets. Ahhh, finally.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Wetting more than his capBeach near Herceg NoviEntering Kotor Bay

    Dober dan Montenegro!

    19 juillet 2024, Monténégro ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    The camping night went well, and we woke up to noises of chirping and a lone tractor. What a joy to start the day's ride with a dunk in the cold stream!

    Our shirts were dry after as we pumped away at a series of uphill sections, and then wet again with sweat. The road was mostly quiet, and snaked over the hills towards the Vitaljina border crossing. A long line of cars were waiting with their motors running. We cycled past them and went to the border guard. He looked up with surprise as we stood there in human shape. We saw even sharper surprise a few kms further (uphill of course) from the border guard at the entrance to Montenegro. He must have seen Kiran and I bump fists as we rode away after his first overland crossing.

    We followed the road down hill to Herceg Novi and jumped into the first beach that we found there. It was sandy and certainly busy but so large that it was not crowded. A lunch and a drink later, we rode on.

    Instead of the road, we took the walkways along the water, threading our way through the ambling beach goers. Well, these 'beaches' were mainly large concrete terraces overhanging the water. They housed beach bars, restaurants, sunbathers, family picnics, vendors. Everything you find at a beach except sand castles. We rode through 30 kms of this crowded, yet bizarrely communal and chill beachscape.

    We pushed on till we reached Kotor Bay. What an atmospheric setting, with the rocky giants standing with their toes in the water as the dusk painted subtle shades of orange and red across them. Kiran was puzzled to see me so excited as I jumped into the water before him. I tried and failed to express the poetry that this beautiful bay inspired. No need, he felt it too and we splashed around to end this long day.    En savoir plus

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  • ArjunRolling on EuropeVoyageur
    Kotor old town
    Kiran leads the wayAbove the old townKotor's public cat boxesWe lingered after mass in the Orthodox church for an hour1Just another adventurer

    Charm of Kotor town

    20–22 juil. 2024, Monténégro ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    We spent the last few days in the scenic Kotor Bay. It's visually delightful, but also geographically sublime. A bay within a bay abutted by tall mountains. This meant that the water has remained calm and predictable for a long maritime history. But the mountains have left no more space than for mostly one row of houses. This results in a coast that is both expansive and claustrophobic at the same time. The sunsets always have a good place to land though.

    The old town is another heritage site in our way, but it charmed us way more than Dubrovnik, or than we expected. The labyrinth of narrow stone streets is quite fun to explore with no plans. Instead of resolving the issue, the town has adopted the cats as it's symbol. There are even solar powered cat food boxes at junctions.

    We walked around and found an abandoned trail behind a fortress. Kiran led the way up through the thorns and the bramble, and soon we found ourselves perched high above the old town. A nice view in a chill breeze, won through our own pathfinding.

    Kiran surprised me with wanting to go to churches and museums. The Orthodox church of St Nicholas is an active one. We lingered for an hour after Sunday mass, watching the locals queue to kiss the scepter, then the hand of the priest before taking the communion cookie. Then the priest got into ornate robes and set about chanting prayers at the various paintings of holy scenes. The people seeked him out for animated discussing that went on for quite long. Kiran asked for a photo so he could remember the place.

    The Maritime museum was also a surprise. We went slowly and meticulously through all the floors, listening to stories or creating our own about the fantastic replica ships, scabbards, Turkish rifles and more in this cool collection. In one corner, there was a gallery of gallant naval adventurers of years past. I looked around and was inspired. I licked my fingertips and twisted up the ends a few times, and there it was. I had found my adventurer look among these hirsute heroes.    En savoir plus

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