• Arjun
  • Arjun

Rolling on Europe

Rolling about the continent looking for an exit. Czytaj więcej
  • Prince of Posidonia

    19 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We halted for the night in a campground in Fertilia. Right opposite is the beach, so we headed over as soon as we could.

    The beach is no beach, but just a bed of Posidonia oceanica detritus. Mounds of it lay everywhere, sometimes meters tall and spongey underfoot. This is the classic seagrass of the Med, and we were in a hotspot apparently.

    The whole beach was also littered with these "kiwi du mer". I was puzzled as to what they were, but Kiran explained that these are fibers of the broken-down grass, which then gets "woven" into these balls by the waves. Seemed like an imaginative idea, but I looked it up and he was actually right!

    "Bah oui papa, Posidonia are the lungs of the Mediterranean"

    He had gotten all that from his school trip. And I was the one who had dived and written a paper about them.

    Nature can sure make weird things.
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  • Alghero

    20 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We slept in, and slowly made our way to Alghero. A historic fort town with some impressive cathedrals and piazzas, that I failed to photograph. We hung around in a cafe, and watched the sea. We had been learning Italian using an audiobook the last week - Kiran tried out a sentence on the waitress. We were pleased that she got it!

    Eventually when we decided to start riding, it was almost three.
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  • Plateau to Sennariolo

    21 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    A sunny morning egged us uphill to ride on to the plateau above the south of Bosa. The road went gently up a few hundred meters and then continued up on the ridge of the plateau. Beautiful, forgotten roads through the green scrub.

    The desert plants were in roaring bloom. It seems the flowers are most brilliant where there is none to observe them.
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  • Bushwalk to breakage

    21 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We were looking forward to a good long downhill ahead. We thought to take another bush track for fun. It looked marginal, but I said ok.

    This tuned out to be an unexpected challenge. The track soon was just an imagined shadow line between the grass, sometimes waist-high. We had several hike-a-bike sections to traverse. But with only a few hundred meters to go, we pushed on to get to the road.

    On this bushwalk, things started to go wrong. Rocker's chain got stuck hard, and the front tire went flat. No problem, I'll fix it using my tools. Then at the road, I realized I had left the hand pump in Kiran's house when I repacked.

    With the sunset coming, we knew we need help to get off the plateau. We stuck our thumbs out hoping to get a lift. Our angels turned up with a van and brought us to the nearest town. Here a luxury hotel gave us sanctuary, and the succor for our troubles - even if self-inflicted.

    I was amazed by the grit of Kiran. And Schopper. Both of them flexed, but did not creak or buckle, under load. Rocker needs help, but that's not a problem for today. Sunsets and dinners are what we need.
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  • Santa Caterina saves us

    22 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After a delicious dinner and a luxurious night of good sleep, we woke up with a better spirit to face the remaining challenge. We found an air pump in the gas station and fixed up Rocker for the ride ahead.

    In the last day, Kiran has observed and learned a lot about dealing with crises. No freaking out. Learn to prioritize problems. Fix them one at a time. And trust in the world around you. It's the best we can do.

    Plus he knows how to fix a flat tire now.

    I'm now a believer in the healing powers of Santa Caterina.
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  • Putzu Idu

    22 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    The route to Putzu Idu was inland and rather busy. At least, I didn't want to take the wooded path today. Fighting headwinds, we rolled up at the beach at Putzu Idu. This was a turning point, so good to mark it with a game of catch. Czytaj więcej

  • Cliffs of Cabras

    22 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    The Su Tingiosu cliffs along the Sinis coastline of Cabras are incredibly beautiful. The rough path that goes along them is a challenging but superb cycling track.

    This is the bumpy road of Kiran's dreams. Bella Sardegna, you continue to amaze us! Czytaj więcej

  • La Sala da Ballo

    23 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    With another storm brewing, I figured it's better to stay on at the same place - but of course, go riding in the wind along the coast.

    We reached a panoramic theater of stone and water. A stone quarry used by the Romans to build the nearby site of Tharros. Named the ballroom because of the parties held there in the 70s apparently. Czytaj więcej

  • Capo San Marco

    23 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    We rode all along the coast till we reached Tharros. The Roman and neolithic site that has attracted groups of motorcyclists and school children. It may be good, but I cannot confirm. We rode past it to the very end of the track at Capo San Marco - and then got off the bikes, walked around the military fence off the lighthouse and bushwalked till the abandoned jetty of La Caletta del Faro - definitely a corner of Sardinia. How else could we play catch with the ball? Czytaj więcej

  • Arborea liberated

    25 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    There is a strange porto industriale south on Oristano, which contains a grid of perpendicular Stradas numbered by longitude. Strange because there is very little sign of industry, it seems mostly agro-psstoral and is flat as the lands around Bremen. And seems to have the only marked cycle trail I've seen so far in Sardinia.

    Then in the middle you come up on this town of Arborea, standing impressive with bungalows and churches and flags and lampposts... and dotted with sitting benches every 100 meters.

    We stopped at the church benches for a now-favorite lunch of panino da papa. Several families with old seniors came ambled around and into the church. Today is Liberation Day, when Italy was freed from the fascists.

    "Papa, what means fasheeshts?"
    "Come on kiki, let's play catch now. I'll tell you another day"

    After that, we rode on to the bridge that takes us into Costa Verde.
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  • Dip at Campu Sali

    26 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Green hills rough with scrub forest flow past us. Sometimes, rather slowly because of the uphill sections. The storm is away and the sun is out.

    We stopped off for a beach picnic at a beach. Another stunning vista in bella Sardegna. The water was too tempting to resist, and we jumped in to the chill waters. Superb refreshing dip! Now, we could ride on - after playing catch. Czytaj więcej

  • Dunes at Piscinas

    26 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A few good uphills and downhills later, we were on a bumpy track. We had gone off route. We could turn back and retrace the 500 m, or.... Onwards we pushed into the scrub.

    With the recent lessons in the back of my mind, we rode over gravel and rock trails. It seemed popular with motorcyclists who were earning their off-road credentials - nodding at Kiran with "Bravi, bravi!".

    The path ran into a little river, bright red. Likely from the tailings of the mines that this area was famous for. With a group of leather-clad motorists looking on, we forged the shallow part of the river and rode on with shoes that were wet, but maybe now less salty.

    We were now in a steep valley between giant sand dunes. This path headed straight for the beach. We landed with relief, and cold drinks. For the first time, we were sharing the beach with others. Some 15 others groups sat about scattered on this massive beach. We played catch and sand wrestled and dived and swam some more. We stopped when we were tired, I think, from all the laughing.
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  • Unexpectedly Pitzinurri

    27 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We stayed at the camping in Sciopadroxiu, as it was close enough to get to after our beach games. After a dinner that was far more delicious than I expected, we went to bed with the plans of a simple ride to the next beach tomorrow in our minds.

    Those visions were shattered in the morning. There was no coastal route to Scivu beach. A shoreline of rocks and scrub had not allowed a road. Maybe also because there is a penitentiary in the middle. What a scenic and natural location to be imprisoned in!

    So we have to climb up to Ingurtosu, and then to the abandoned mining town of Pitzinurri. This was our 'chance' to get into mining country of these green mountains.

    We reached the high point of Gannamari, where we could see how far and high from the beach we had come. And were going back down to it!

    The road down was a freewheeling thrill, but also lubricated with the relief of being done with the uphill. We reached Scivu beach, which is a natural outpost where sea turtles lay their eggs. We found none, but maybe a sea snake. We had big plans at the next stop, but we stayed back to enjoy some well-earned swimming and playing catch.
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  • Buggerru bash

    27 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We wanted to get to Buggerru, as we had planned to celebrate the eve of my birthday with beach time and a special dinner. The route out of Scivu was hard though. I knew we had overstayed by walking the entire length, Kiran in waist-deep water.

    The route to Buggerru was hard with headwinds and rocky slopes and hurt legs. In our hilly adventures, we had forgotten lunch. So our mood got sullen, we stumbled and hurt our legs and were snappy. So I made an emergency papa wrap sitting in the bush, and that let us go on.

    We reached Buggerru as the sun set. We still went for a fancy dinner, clinked glasses (sprite and gin basil smash) and went to bed late. We got an eve of the birthday treat after all!

    We wanted to have a birthday bash in Buggerru. But we got bashed instead. Such is the road life.

    Next morning, we had another go at a fancy lunch. Then we took the hard way out of Buggerru. This route just turned off from the town center and climbed out straight into the rocky hills. Buggerru is a town set in a sheer rock port, as stunning as any Norwegian fjord town.

    We decided, for the first time, to avoid bush tracks and we took the roadway. We climbed and climbed and climbed up till Montecani. This was deep in the Costa Verde slopes!
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  • Meandering past Masau

    28 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    The road down to Masau is the definition of meandering! What beautiful vistas that pop into view, only to be obscured again by the next face of the sheer rock walls. This was much loved by the motorbikers; we felt we were in a posse on this road.

    After a well-earned gelato or three, we rode past Masau to take the road towards Iglesias. There awaited Kiran's surprise birthday gift for me.

    We ended up on a section of the Camino Minerario again, which actually went past old mining furnaces and brick works. We picked up a couple of keepsake pebbles from the Funtana Coperto (copper fountain) for our mineral collections. Without visiting any of the museums, we had experienced more of this mining country and understood some of their hardships on these wild slopes.

    Onwards to Iglesias!
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  • Palazzo per Papa

    28 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Kiran had been asking how we were going to celebrate my birthday. He wished that we could have a "really luxus place for my papa". So that's what I arranged. Except it was his gift for me, but a surprise for him.

    Here we were in a deluxe hotel in Iglesias, which was our palace for an evening. He was so pleased. It's funny how after all these outdoor days, a little plush and pretty can overwhelm.

    My other birthday gift from him? A conversation together in Italian: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mV6tyN4mtU7eHijF8 (video here)

    I'm pleased with how much we learnt in 10 days.
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  • Dumped in Macomer

    29 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Me: "So, where should we go next?"
    K: "Let's take the ferry to Africa! And then we can cycle there"
    "Hmm, what are the pros and cons of this plan?"
    "We can go ride in Africa. It will be so good! But my school teacher will kill me!"
    "But how will she find you in Africa? You can escape with your bicycle"
    "Oh yeah! But what about maman?"

    After a strident debate that covered many points, we decided that it's better to not tackle Africa at the moment. So instead, we agreed to take the train and ferry back up north.

    Except the train switched to a bus connection in Macomer. We hurried with our bikes to the bus. The woman driver vehemently shook her head with "Non!" to indicate that the bus was already full. Then she drove off, with us few passengers being unceremoniously dumped by the station in Macomer.

    After an hour of sitting around it seemed like maybe the Africa plan was better, after all.
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  • Ciao Sardegna!

    29 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The next bus driver arrived, preparedly grumpy, and told us we cannot take the bicycles on the bus. I protested that we had called the station to confirm. He said no, and led me to a notice stuck behind two other notices on the wall of the station. I insisted that we have to go. Eventually, he relented and we squeezed Schopper and Rocker into the bay and the bus headed out. Being on the road improved the driver's mood, and he even brought us to Porto Torres. Kiran had a good lesson in dealing with adversity, but he still thinks panic is a good option as a response.

    After we ensured sufficient ball catching had occurred in Porto Torres, we ate our last gelatos for the trip and boarded the ferry back to France.

    Kiran rode on to the ferry in style. A style he had earned. He had ridden out of his village for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Here we had reached the south of Sardinia, having covered 590 km by bicycle. Great start to a cycle touring career!

    It felt like a month has passed, though the calendar says it's only been nine days here. It's a side-effect of living along the dimension of effort instead of time. And this felt like a month of stunning beaches and challenging hills and playing ball. What a great island!

    Addio Sardegna. Fino alla prossima volta!
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  • Au revoir à Valence

    30 kwietnia 2024, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We arrived by train in Valence. Here it was time to clean up, repack our bags and say goodbye. Kiran is back with his mom... and in the jurisdiction of his school teacher.

    It has been a great experience to ride together. And a wonderful discovery to learn that he's a superb cyclist. We will hope to be riding together again! Czytaj więcej

  • Riding along Isère

    3 maja 2024, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Even though the sky has not fully cleared, the rain has passed. So I got on to the saddle today, and rode out of Valence.

    I found my way to the Isère river and followed the bicycle track along it. The path winds through mostly farmland and the occasional village. In the distance are the views of the rocky peaks of the Vercors.

    Out of habit, I looked several times in the mirror to see if Kiran was doing ok. I miss my little rider.
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  • Golden Cliffs Camp

    3 maja 2024, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After a good day of riding, I found a picnic bench near Saint Marcellin with a great view on to the rockface on the other side of the river. Over a dinner of harissa-laced veggie wraps with local cheese, I figured it would be the view I'd like to sleep with tonight.

    I found a walnut orchard in Saint Sauveur that went to the edge of the river. So I set up camp there, and watched the sun turn the rocks to molten gold and the red kites to glowing soaring spirits. There is a waterfall on the opposite side, but it spurts out from the middle of the rock. The river is still and a blueish slate-gray, a weird contrast to the sunset.
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  • Grenoble

    4 maja 2024, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The route past Saint Marcellin was along the river, pleasant and lined with walnut orchards. The veloroute was livelier this sunny weekend. At the picnic table, I met a group of friendly Ardechois, one of whom was embarking on a five month trip.

    We rode together till Grenoble. The route gets boxed in more and more by towering rocky mountains from all sides, some of it capped in bright white snow. The prominence of these peaks is impressive and makes for a dramatic setting for Grenoble.
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