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  • Day 83–84

    Tarpum Bay Eleuthera

    May 18 on the Bahamas ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We took the opportunity of a low-wind week to stop here, a totally unprotected seaside settlement of Eleuthera only 10 miles N of Rock Sound. The town is a typical beach-side town, with a beach, a seawall, and a beach highway with guest houses, bars and restaurants fronting. The water is spectacularly clear, with a clean sandy bottom and the occasional coral bommie. Two docks, one for large boats and another for fish cleaning jut out.

    We waited until after the mid-afternoon heat was past to go ashore. Others had survived by being in the shade, not moving. Around 4:30p we finally made it ashore and found locals and guests keeping cool in the water, where they have hammocks and swings. Others were at the fish dock, cleaning today's catch, or at the bars having a beer. We decided to walk (slowly) around the block to catch some sense of the town. Behind the sea front, the houses got smaller and sometimes more decrepit, but there were also ones that were being kept up. Bert's grocery store was pretty well stocked, but not for fresh food, which was minimal. The mailboats don't stop here, so they go to Rock Sound or Governors Harbor and pickup food at those docks (Tue and Fri).

    What we didn't expect is that ALL the restaurants are closed. The explanation is that things here are very seasonal and things open and close unexpectedly. No doubt this isn't quite the destination that Rock Sound is. But unlike Rock Sound's murky blue water, this beautiful water is clear as day.
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