South & Central America

May - November 2015
A 198-day adventure by Ruth Read more
  • 185footprints
  • 13countries
  • 198days
  • 944photos
  • 0videos
  • 16.7kkilometers
  • 3.5kkilometers
  • Day 10

    Jabaquara beach

    May 16, 2015 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Lazy day ... spent the day at Jabaquara beach, 15 mins walk north of our hostel, across a bridge with big crabs underneath with bright red legs. Read in the sun, had a coconut to cool off plus a delicious chocolate / coconut / strawberry truffle (R3) whilst listening to a man and his guitar, sunbathed some more, dipped in the sea to cool off, wandered home ... it's a hard life! Anna managed not to burn most of herself but still missed two large patches on her calves :(
    On our way back we passed a tiny tiny van blaring out music such as the lion king theme with the driver yelling churros. Inside the back of the van was his churro-making equipment- amazing!
    Planned to go to a Brazilian restaurant for dinner but we left the hostel with no map and no clue where it was, doh. After no luck stumbling across it we decided to postpone and went for a cheap per kilo place just outside the historic centre (R9 for me) and ice cream (R6) - Anna's heavier both times surprise surprise!! For an after dinner treat we went in a chocolate shop and bought 5 truffles (5R) to share. Brazilian chocolate is yummy :)
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  • Day 11

    Trinidade

    May 17, 2015 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    No, we haven't skipped countries, this is a small hippy place 16km south of Paraty. When the hostel owner found out we'd been to Jabaquara she said "no, no, not there, you must go to Trinidade!". So off we went to the bus stop to join an already rammed public bus. The bus ride can only be described as a packed rollercoaster going up kills (v v slowly) then down hills, across a stream at one point with passenger ohs and ahs to complete the experience.

    Trinidade is made up of 4 beaches and a strip of shops and restaurants. We were off to visit the natural pools which can be accessed by boat but where's the fun in that?!

    Instead we walked across one beach, across a stream, up and down a path through the jungle - consisting of rocks, tree roots and wood and along another beach. This bought us to a series of giant boulders which were being smashed by the huge waves. A tour group was in front and included one woman who was taking her time so we decided to chance upon a shortcut and run around the rocks when the waves were out...needless to say we didn't make it and got soaked! And ended up still behind the tour group!

    The pools were lovely, we had a dip and dry off, and sadly my waterproof camera isn't so waterproof as it filled up with water :(

    It seemed that the tide had dropped so we thought the return route would be easier but the waves were twice as big on the way back. It was amazing to see people of all shapes and sizes, some with babies or huge coolboxes, following the path despite it being pretty challenging.

    We had a late lunch and then got the 4pm bus back as it had started to get cold. We stopped by the supermarket and found some tortuga chocolate, actually in the shape of turtles which we dutifully tried on the name of research - yum :) Also had some huge freshly made chewy crisps.

    For dinner we ended up having 30cm pasteis - think fried sausage roll but twice as wide - full of cheese and sausage. I couldn't manage the whole thing but Anna polished hers off and a fair bit of mine!
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  • Day 12

    Pontal beach

    May 18, 2015 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Lazy day that started with a run! My first in 6 months...a nice gentle pace up the river and back and then across Pontal beach in front of the hostel...not as bad as feared.

    After a long breakfast using wifi as not working in rooms anymore we relocated 100m to the beach to read in the sun. Had lunch then got a bit cloudy so wandered around the historic centre, had ice cream and tried to book bus tickets but need our passports apparently?! Looked at the upper part of town which floods at high tide sometimes but only found a bit of muddy water and loads of tiny crabs. Paraty is sometimes described as the Brazilian Venice but looked like it needs a bit more water to me!

    Anna bought some perfume which can only be described as eau de hippy - think incense sticks (there was v limited choice) - to try and cover up the lingering smell that has plagued our room the last few days. After doing some washing and banishing her trainers the smell went away...funny that.

    We finally tracked down the Brazilian restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet (LP) only to find it was closed, as was the creperie we looked for last night. Maybe LP should employ us for updates :) However we did find a tiny Turkish cafe it recommended by the bus station and had amazing falafel pittas for dinner.
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  • Day 13

    Jeep tour - cachaca & waterfalls

    May 19, 2015 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Picked up by Felipe our driver, plus Eugene & Fatima, a lovely older couple from Sao Paulo and off we drove in our Jeep.

    First stop = cachaca (pronounced ca-sha-sa) distillery. Quick tour in Portuguese so no wiser how it's made but had plenty of tasters - yum! Bought a small bottle of chocolate chili - amazing!

    Then onto some waterfalls, climbed up the side and went in a deep natural pool, sat under the waterfall and got pummeled by the water, then jumped off a big rock into a pool.

    After another rum tasting stop and a quick detour to the garage to fix the jeep, we went to Toboggan waterfall which is a huge smooth rock you can slide down. I wimped out for fear for my coccyx but Anna slid down 3 times and loved it. We walked up through the trees and across a dodgy swing bridge to see Tarzan waterfall. Also saw a church perched on top of a huge rock. There are random huge boulders everywhere here - no idea how they got there.

    One more rum stop and we went to a restaurant where Anna and I ordered, yes, rum! Trying to save pennies, we weren't planning to eat but Eugene & Fatima insisted we share their rice, beans, beef & chips - to Be fair there was mountains of it - and insisted on paying for our drinks. Lovely people :) With their limited English and google translator they taught us lots of Portuguese and have offered us a lift to Sao Paulo tomorrow as they are going home. Awesome!

    Tour was supposed to cost 60R but Felipe only took 50R for some reason. The more popular Paraty Tours were charging 80 knocked down from 90 for low season so we got a bargain and their groups were much bigger. They likely spoke English but where's the fun in that?! I'm not sure England would ever be allowed to sell a tour where they ply you with alcohol and then lead you across slippery rocks.

    We were too full for any dinner but did stumble across the churro van so had to try one - fat churro filled with chocolate & caramel sauce then the end dipped in choc sprinkles = greasy heaven! (R3.5).
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  • Day 14

    First overnight bus: SP to Iguazu

    May 20, 2015 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Our newly adopted Brazilian parents, Eugene "you are my daughters today" & Fatima very kindly drove us to Sao Paulo (5hrs) and insisted on buying us lunch at the services - very nice incl loads of veg which makes a refreshing change. Beautiful coastal road to start with then climbing up windy roads into the foggy highlands then onto three lane motorways with tolls.

    E & F told us the mayor of Paraty was shot last night (survived) about 2 blocks behind our hostel. They didn't seem that shocked and said all politics / police are corrupt.

    From what little we saw of SP we're glad we didn't stay despite having a few free offers - huge, smoggy, dirty city with 20 million people and tons of skyscrapers. The main road that goes along the outside had approx 10 lanes both ways!

    We got tickets for our night bus from Pluma (R189) and left at 18:30. Fairly comfortable apart from my squiggling travel companion and beautiful sunrise. I wrongly presumed we'd be travelling through jungle but it was more small towns and farmland.

    We arrived at Foz do Iguacu about 10am and walked an hour to our hostel...Guest House Iguazu.
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  • Day 15

    Foz do Iguacu

    May 21, 2015 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Iguassu Guest House is a bit shabbier than our usual standards however it does have a pool (large bath tub), pool table, hammocks and R5 (£1) capirinhas!! Anna says she feels at home since the hostel is in locked gates with electric fencing above and shards of glass decorating the garden walls - this is quote common for all the other hostels we've seen and apparently is due to problems re smuggling contraband from Paraguay.

    Went for a wander in search of coffee for Anna, then Paraguay - we are on the border of 3 countries. Ended up down residential streets as this place is a lot bigger than the map would suggest. Agree with majority of reports that this place is a bit of a dump! Eventually gave up and went to read in the hammocks.

    Searched for another of Anna's restaurants...gave up and ended at an all you can eat churrascuria buffet (R26) - the usual Brazilian choices plus men coming round with skewers of meat every minute. Not quite my thing but Anna was in heaven and seemed to have a magical refilling plate. Quote of the day "I never knew cow could taste so good" was quickly usurped by "I never thought I'd enjoy men waving their meat in my face"!

    Finished the day with a game of a pool.
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  • Day 16

    Igazu falls - Brazilian side

    May 22, 2015 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Bigger than Niagara, the falls are made up of 150-300 separate falls depending on water flow, spread out over 2.7km. I have to say I'd never heard of them before our trip and wasn't overly bothered about seeing them.

    Words and photos cannot do justice to Iguazu falls. They are simply spectacular!!! Deservedly one of the new 7 wonders of the world (unlike Christ Redeemer in my opinion; I think South Americans were voting heavily for these as we will see 4 of the wonders on our travels).

    We caught a public bus to the site and paid our 53R fee, then were taken by bus to the start of the trail. The first view is amazing, but then as you walk along the trail you realise that's not it, there is more and more, and then more, until you end up at the heaviest part - Devil's Throat.

    The sound is tremendous, there are rainbows everywhere, beautiful butterflies land on you and won't leave you alone, and Quatis (monkey cats) stalk you for food.

    We spent over 3 hours on a trail that's less than a mile long taking a million photos. I could have stayed all day.

    Since the Argentinian tour will be pricey we decided to try and cut costs and cook for ourselves! £2 bought us enough pasta, sauce and veg for 2 meals, 2 instant noodles and some bacon popcorn - seems we have resorted to student life! To complete this we spent the evening sipping capirinhas and playing pool, including a great England vs Canadian match which we narrowly won.
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  • Day 17

    Puerto Iguazu - hummingbirds

    May 23, 2015 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    NB: 14 Pesos = £1.

    Today we hopped over to Argentina for the day. Caught a bus (4R) which we had been told we should get off at the Brazilian border, however the bus driver said no to us despite some people he said yes to so we hesitantly stayed on the bus and only got off on the Argentinian side, got passports stamped and got back on the bus. Seems to have worked as they let us back in the other side! The lady in the hostel wasn't sure why but was likely because we had no luggage so they knew it was a day trip. Either way was easy!

    Anna wanted to go to Jardin de Picaflores (hummingbird garden; 40P) so led us on a long, hot trek on which we picked up a dog causing all the other dogs behind the gates to bark at us! When we eventually found said place, it was closed for siesta :( Thinking we were ages from town we sat and waited for over an hour :( Turns out we were 5 mins from town and Anna had taken us the scenic route!!! Oh well. Never trust a Flump to navigate.

    The garden is just a guy's backyard who has been feeding the birds for 34 years (sugar syrup solution). Anna hoped to see a few birds but she was in heaven because there were about a hundred of the little things chirping away and whizzing past our faces. I'm not overly into birds but it was a beautiful sight and lovely noise. Anna was completely enchanted :)

    Booked our onward bus trip - expensive but only one bus company does our route so little choice unless we want to take a week by chicken buses!

    Had a wander around Puerto Iguazu. Such a lovely cute place, very backpackerish and as it's low season, quite deserted. A much nicer place than the Brazilian side and we wished we'd stayed there for half the time to do the stuff on that side, especially as our onward travel is from there. The benefit of hindsight!!

    We found a very cute, tiny Mexican and had tacos, quesadillas, free nachos and free tequila for Anna - it makes her happy!! - for a late lunch, then caught the bus back (20P).

    Talked to the hostel tour guide lady for a long time and then did some planning for our next stop. Toasty hot today!
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  • Day 18

    Iguazu falls - Argentinan side

    May 24, 2015 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We'd booked a tour (150R) with Vivian from our hostel as we really liked her, thought the border crossing may be difficult and Anna didn't want to get lost! In retrospect we wouldn't have bothered due to the amount of faffing and learning that the border was easy to cross yesterday. But had a great day and met some lovely people.

    Left hostel at 8:30, picked up various other people, and went through Argentinian border - this took way longer than it would have done on the bus due to him taking forever to process a minibus full of passports.

    Drove onto the Tri-border point where Brazil, Argentina & Paraguay meet. Not overly exciting in my opinion but Anna wanted to see it. Then had ages to browse various stalls (bought parrot pen for La Tania) whilst waited for another minibus to join us. After saying she usually had small groups we ended up with 22 people :(

    Then onto the falls. It was rammed!!! Locals get much cheaper entry so weekends are busier and ours was the Sunday before a holiday Monday - bad timing! We had to wait a while for the train which took us up to the beginning of a 15min walkway above the river to the top of Devil's Throat, the most powerful part of the falls. Halfway there the heavens opened and we hurried into our ponchos etc ... I had chosen my raincoat for the day and it was getting it's first proper test - it failed!!! Big time!! Tip to self: don't skimp on cost with a raincoat. It wasn't completely useless but Anna was much drier in her £1 poncho.

    Devil's Throat was quite spectacular - great roar of water and spray everywhere though quite hard to see with the torrential rain. Luckily this soon started to ease. Then it was a very slippery slide back along the walkway.

    Due to the crowds we had to wait ages for a train back then had lunch amongst the coatis and monkeys. At this point it was 6 hours into the tour and we'd only seen one thing - we were fed up with the tour. Luckily the afternoon was better.

    We walked along the lower trail which had some great sights. Whereas Brazil is more panoramic views, the Argentinian side is the close up views.

    Then we started heading down for our boat ride (90R). Halfway down the most torrential rain started to pour suddenly, soaking me before I had a chance to put my half-sodden raincoat on. Water was absolutely pouring down the steps, it was like walking down a river. We boarded our boat (RIB) which drove us near to one of the waterfalls' spray. Already wet from the rain I barely noticed the difference and was starting to regret forking out the extra money for the ride. Then he drove us round the corner to another waterfall and completely dunked us under it twice - I thought I was wet before, but after that I was completely drenched! Quite a short ride but so much fun :)

    It continued to drizzle and we wandered along the upper trail quickly. We were virtually the only ones there as the locals had sensibly scarpered home.

    We left the park at 5:30 and took us over 2 hours to drop people off, stop at banks etc while I was getting cold and hungry. Has completely put us off future tours, though I'm sure we'll do many more.

    All was remedied by a hot shower and some homemade pasta. I also tried to make our microwave bacon popcorn and pretty much incinerated it. The guy from the hostel obviously felt sorry for us as he cooked us up a gignormous bowl of popcorn! He and Ricard (Brazilian guy from tour) then spent the evening quizzing us on English words and attempting to teach us Portuguese. Anna also got an impromptu dance lesson from Ricard.
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  • Day 19

    Bus: Iguacu to Salta

    May 25, 2015 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It was time to say ciao to Brazil :(

    We left the hostel at 8am, which we thought would give us ample time to get to the bus station in Argentina for our 9:45 bus. Only just!

    We hopped on what we thought was a public bus (albeit smarter looking and without the entry turnstile). We got off at the Brazilian side, got our exit stamp, then waited for the next bus. A public bus turned up, but apparently the ticket we had from the first bus wasn't valid on this bus. They said the next bus of our type was 40 mins so we had no choice but to pay again. The bus then stopped at Argentina for everyone to get stamped, which took ages but luckily we made our connection.

    The whole journey cost 1,300R which is pricey! There were only 3 options all with the same company so we chose the mid-priced one with the comfiest seats and reasonable times. Petrol was £1 a litre in Argentina so I guess this is why it's much more.

    First, a 5 hour trip on Horianski bus to Posadas where we had 2 movies, sweets plus a coffee and a huge cup of cafe liquor for Anna.

    We had an hour and a half wait so went into a cafe in the terminal which had no menu / prices displayed. Anna was after a cheeseburger and ended up with a huge chicken sandwich. This plus chips and 2 drinks was about 100P! So far Argentina is pricey, or they ripped off the gringos.

    Also, when our luggage was loaded onto the bus, the guy then asked us something in Spanish. Looking blankly, he then said money! The backpackers behind us explained he wanted a tip and it's standard here. For 10 seconds work! Charming. So far, Argentina sucks in comparison to Brazil!

    Then onto the major leg at 4:15pm - the expensive bit - run by Pluma. We had cama executive seats, the poshest class, which consists of big comfy armchairs which recline a long way (3 per aisle), blankets and airline-type service.

    The landscape was fairly boring and barren, mostly scrubland with cows (or "walking steaks" as Anna calls them) standing in swampy grass.

    Now and again the police would come aboard. They only seemed to question people who looked Argentinian to us, but no idea what they wanted.

    They gave us some lovely sweet cakes (alfajores), more movies, but no dinner until 11pm! Dinner was huge - most of it was snacky and edible. The hot meal was sort of mashed potato and chicken?! Even Anna turned her nose up at it which says it all!!

    We slept fairly well despite the bumpy road and awoke to a late breakfast at 9am.

    The only bad part of the trip was the vile toilet. There were no rest stops as on our last trip so we had to use the onboard loo. Gross doesn't quite cut it. We promptly showered as soon as we got to our hostel!!

    Bus arrived at Salta at 10:30am and it was less than a mile walk to our hostel.
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