Extended family vacation to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Read more
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  • Day 1

    2091 Convention Center Concourse, Colleg

    July 3, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Day one. After a three hour drive to Atlanta, we’re now tucked away in our airport hotel, waiting for tomorrow’s flight to Toronto, then on to Halifax. Both kids went insane the second we walked into our hotel room, pent up energy finally finding a vent. Our hotel is the same one we stayed at when we went to Colombia, a year and a half ago. It’s nice as it lets us keep our truck parked at the hotel during our vacation, and it has a tram right outside that leads to the international terminal.
    The rest of our group: Kevin, Barb, Forest, Heleen, and Mies will arrive in Halifax today. Looking forward to meeting up with everyone in a different country once again, with different food different music, different smells; exposing our kids to the world, one country at a time.
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  • Day 2

    1891 Upper Water St, Halifax, NS, Canada

    July 4, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Day two. Travel from Atalanta to Toronto then to Halifax. Atlanta-Toronto leg was pretty painless, upgraded seats on Delta helped with long legs and antsy kiddos; Bloody Marys helped the chi flow. Toronto’s airport is weird and confusing, to us anyway, as the signs are not really helpful and the auto check in kiosks are prejudiced against non Canadian passports. That’s according to one helpful airport whisp that was floating near by. Final leg to Halifax aboard WestJet was spent observing two older women, my seat mates, kick and squish their beloved cats, entombed in their pale purple mesh cages, under their seats, until the “sweet darlings” were completely and thoroughly fucked...err, safe and secure, muttering the entire trip, “never again”...
    Halifax arrival and car rental accruement; nice and shiny with the new car smell Jetta, kids strapped and Google maps loaded...downtown Marriott inbound.
    The place is nice, right on the harbor nice rooms and walking distance to all things beer and lobster. Time is limited unfortunately and we hit up the first generic Halifax, “come eat lobster here Americans” restaurant... But you know what? It was good...very good, the lobster was fresh and big, and the meat oh so wonderful.
    Ice cream on the short walk back, the Mint Cownadian was the best chocolate mint ice cream I’ve ever eaten... The bar in the hotel also makes a pretty damn good Old Fashioned...but, and here is a golden travel tip... If you want to drink said beverages in your hotel room, you can’t order at the hotel bar and carry those wonderful concoctions up your self...nope, the only way to drink a hotel bar drink in your hotel room is to request the help of room service foot soldiers to bring them up to you. Genius!
    We’re off tomorrow on a 4 to 5 hour drive to Cape Breton to meet up with the rest of the clan. Halifax looks like fun, it tastes good... I’d like to see and eat more of Halifax sometime soon, but it’s not on the plan... for now the promise of music, beer, liquor, family, and oh yes.. lobster, await.
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  • Day 3

    Old Grand Lac Rd, NS, Canada

    July 5, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Day three. This morning was beautiful in downtown Halifax, the sun was blinding over the bay but it was worth the pain to dumbly stare at the hot orb as it’s reflection slowly moved in the sky. Warm too for Halifax, by 7am the temps were in the 70’s and highs were going to be well into the 80’s; those are temps for the locals to be concerned about! Shorts? Where did I pack those shorts back in 86’?
    We were packed and on the road by 10 am, headed north into Cape Breton and away from the oppressive heat!! The drive was nice but mainly we were driving in forests with occasional glimpses of the sea. We stopped halfway through at a local bakery for a pit stop and some lunch. It was local and simple, old chairs and tables on a stained rug throughout the small dining room...but the food was honest and good and came with a friendly, and very happy hostess. I had a steak sandwich on a recently homemade bun with a delectable au-jus that was so good I drank the remaining dregs straight from the small pitcher. Both kids had breakfast for lunch, French toast for Addie, also home made bread, and a waffle for the boy. Heather had a bowl of seafood chowder that was...you guessed it, homemade and fresh as you can get when you live on an island.
    Two hours down and two to go, the driving is easy and actually pretty pleasant, when the two evil demons from the back seat are behaving and mindlessly sucked into iPad purgatory. I’m kidding, they were truthfully being...somewhat good, I only lost my mind twice.
    When we arrived at the house it was just what I wanted: secluded, exposed to nature, a small jaunty skip away from the beach, and big enough to accommodate the entire family. The ocean is the main focus, just about viewable from every window. The grass that surrounds the area is really an extension of the ocean, it moves and flows like the water, creating an illusion of sorts of what’s land and what’s water. In other words, the place is dramatic, and cool... and I like it here.
    The afternoon was mainly spent by the ocean walking around the cliffs that border the beach and talking with the rest of the family. Plans are being made and details sorted...the nitty gritty of traveling with large numbers. But thank god we have more PhD’s on the trip then the average college... I think we’ll be ok. If we study hard.
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  • Day 4

    Cape Breton Highlands

    July 6, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Day four. The sun sets late and rises early here on Cape Breton Island. 6am and the sun thinks it’s 9:30. So does James apparently, he’s triggered to rise at the point in time when we’re the most tired, or relaxed, or...something else. But after clambering up the bed and kneeing me in the groin for good measure, he actually fell back to sleep again...well good for him, I’m up.
    Pancakes and black coffee, fruit salad and really good Dutch cheese. Breakfast is on the large dining room table and the morning conversation is a mix of English and Dutch and toddler speak. Somehow we decided to drive a short way into Cape Breton National Park and take a hike, the resulting outing was awesome! The drive alone is worth doing over, maybe with a good dose of whiskey and about triple the speed. I’m just kidding of course...that would be irresponsible. But probably fun.
    The hike was about 3 miles, not bad, and climaxed when we were just about blown off a cliff in 50 mph wind gusts. I’m not kidding of course. We did the Skyline trail that is very popular apparently with parents of young children. The shear cliff faces and hurricane winds must be too tempting for parents to NOT bring their offspring. Some primal survival test must awaken within us that makes us experiment on our children to see if they’re fit for this world. Most make it...
    Once you are at the top, you are rewarded with amazing views of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the French Mountain...and 50 MPH gusts of freaking wind man...I mean major blowing going on. Wear a poncho at your own risk dumbass and sail away. James being 3, had morphed into a koala and found some marsupial pouch I didn’t know about on Heather and waited it out; smart kid.
    The hike down was like all hikes down...boring. James fell asleep and stayed asleep if Heather carried him. He’d awaken quickly and violently each time we tried to put him in my arms, bear cub sensing that papa bear might eat him I guess. No matter, Heather likes lifting toddler kettle balls on a mountain.
    Car ride to ice cream, ice cream on car seats, home... rest... relaxation for like 10 minuets until we scramble back into our respective automobiles and scurry off to a nearby restaurant by the sea...they’re all by the sea, and order us up some lobster!
    Lobster is done right in this country, they’re big and juicy and it’s a meal that you get to break things to eat. They give you tools to eat this crustacean; pliers and picks and big plastic bib, because nobody can cleanly eat a lobster; we’re all reduced to toddlers with this kind of meal. This particular boiled little screamer had a nice surprise of roe hidden under its shell...a nice creamy bonus of lobster caviar!
    Some homemade blueberry pie came next and I decided I’d live here quite comfortably. Drove back to our house and capped the night with some 14 year old whiskey that was distilled about 20 miles away and I decided to sell our house back home. Who knew.... Canada!
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  • Day 5

    Cape Breton Highlands National Park

    July 7, 2018 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Day five. The morning came with brilliant speed and strong winds that brought the smell of the ocean into our home. The open windows in our bedroom forced us to layer up with another blanket half way through the night, a welcomed inconvenience. Smells of eggs and spinach, potatoes and strong coffee came from the kitchen where Forest has been cooking up a mad storm of breakfast quiches. God bless him. Waiting the recommended 10 minutes after eating, I decided to go out for a run by the sea. There is a pot hole infused dirt road in front of our house that borders the ocean cliff; a fine place for a run. The wind was a training partner that I came to love and loathe. In one direction it’s a helpful coach, literally pushing you here and there when you need it, in the other direction it’s the hand of the devil pushing you backward and blowing dirt in your eyes, but I pushed out 3 1/2 miles under 7:30 per mile so that justified all the alcohol I would consume today. We all wanted to do some more hiking in the Highlands, so.... we didn’t. Instead we made it to the visitor center right before the park entrance to let the kids play around on the playground. We did do a “hike” sorta... more like walking really slowly beside a river for a mile up then back. We stopped at our turn around point by a section of the river that was small and slow moving so the kids could play on the rocks and sand. When does the adult stuff begin? Must be soon...
    We heard that a local bar in the town of Cheticamp had some Cape Breton fiddlers playing this afternoon so we headed over to the small pub only to be told we couldn’t come inside...because we had kids. Apparently in Canada when the music starts playing the restaurant turns into a pub, and kids aren’t allowed. But the owner said with a wink that if we order some food and eat real slow then technically we would still be doing the restaurant thing and not the pub thing and it would be ok...but once we’re done eating that’s it. So we listened to about 30 minutes of really good fiddling before we had to leave...but really, once you’ve heard 30 minutes of world renowned fiddle music in the highlands of Cape Breton where children are taught to play the fiddle before they feed themselves who needs to hear more?
    So home we went and home we stayed for the rest of the day. It was warm today, windy, and not a cloud in the sky. Addie got her chance to swim in the freezing ocean and the Adults finally getting their time to do adult things...napped.
    Tomorrow we say goodbye to Cape Breton; time to move onward and northward toward the new land they found just a few years back. They called it Newfoundland, because that makes so much sense.
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  • Day 6

    Sydney to Newfoundland

    July 8, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Day six. It’s easy to rise with the sun when the sun smacks you in the face... I was grateful however as this was our last day in Cape Breton. The morning became busy and a little frantic as 6 adults dogging 3 children scoured the house for all belongings and tried to re organize our luggage. Once we packed, ate, and caffeinated ourselves to sufficient levels we took the obligatory group photo and got on the road. The plan was to meander around the famous Cabot Trail that takes you through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park from one end to the other. The road borders the sea for most of the way and the views and driving were dramatic.
    In most of the travel and guide books they say that July is the high tourist season and to expect crowds. Well if this is an example of Nova Scotia’s busy travel season then they either have no concept of “crowds” or our expectations of crowded is just ridiculous and an example of what we’ve become used to in the states with huge lines, bursting amusement parks, and claustrophobic beaches...I want to live here.
    We drove for several hours stopping a few times to gawk at the beauty, and once to swim in the freezing waters of a beautiful cliff lined beach ( i didn’t swim...I’m too smart).
    We arrived at the ferry terminal in Sydney and waited in a long line for a long time before we drove into the belly of the big ferry that would take us to Newfoundland. It was a cruise ship circa 1984... it tried to be a nice experience for its travelers, it tried to have entertainment, it overall tried to be everything we wanted it to be. But, no matter how to you twist it, we were all sleeping in a 4 person coffin with nothing but the sounds of your neighbors and the unvarying drunk spinning kinda feeling from the rise and fall of the ocean waves the entire night. It was a 14 hour ferry ride, they had beer...thank God, it would be complete mutiny if they didn’t, and of course ridiculous overpriced, over cooked, re-used...(just hypothesizing here) food. But, after only 5 toddler breakdowns we made it into Newfoundland. The last 45 minutes of the journey was beautiful as the big ferry navigated through the channel with the rugged coastline on our flanks. The wind was unrelenting and managed to find any opening, no matter how small, into your clothes and to your skin. But none of that really mattered as we watched the approaching harbor get closer. We were in a new place, a rugged place with cold and wind and unsurpassable beauty, and...ready to get off this fucking boat.
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  • Day 7

    St. Johns

    July 9, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Day seven. The ferry purged us from it’s bowels at 10am and we were in Newfoundland. The juxtaposition of the cramped ferry and the wild desolate surroundings we found our selves in was not lost on me. From the colon to the forest floor, we were free...
    We had an hour and a half drive to St. John’s, but our quandary was time as it most always is. We had 3 hours to kill before we were allowed to take up residence in our new dwelling, so after a brief meeting that we had no part in, it was decided we would spend that time looking at goats and smelling their shit...to the petting zoo we go!
    To be fair it was also a huge produce farm and market of sorts, the goats along with the Emu’s, bunnies, Eeyore, ice cream, and sandboxes were all well thought out and designed to entrap us and rob us of all our pocket change. It worked. Thankfully they had carrots and eggs that we bought so we wouldn’t starve in the big city tonight.
    Finally, being allowed to enter our rental we found the townhouse without issue and debated on who would get what bedroom and all the pros and cons of each option. We celebrated our accomplishment by walking to a little coffee shop nearby then to an over crowded park that must have been in the middle of some camp outing...I believe all the kids in this city were there, all being polite and nice to one another...it was unsettling.
    Heather, James, and I escaped and drove up to Signal Hill, a national historic site that overlooks the surrounding bay and the city of St. John’s. It was beautiful and of course windy as hell. James had been really struggling most of the day, he was cranky and irritable and frankly just a little unstable...reminded me of a 3 year old...humm. But he did enjoy the view I think, a really big red boat went through the the little harbor creating a perfect photograph and he said, “boat”.... he was really excited.
    To capitalize on his good mood we took him to a local brewery called Quidi Vidi. It was oh so tasty and beautifully snuggled in a small little harbor in St. John’s. James did us a huge favor and didn’t scream the entire time were there, letting us fully enjoy our craft beers and for a time, forget about all the struggles that come with traveling with a toddler.
    From there we drove to a local grocery store that was beautiful. I’ve never written those words before but it’s true. It was big, somewhat out of place, and had all the goodness we were after. They even had a escalator for the grocery carts.... and I thought I’ve seen it all.
    Home now, dinner was prepared, ( it was vegetarian....”what?” Meat is bad...) and James didn’t disappoint by preforming one last encore. He is now passed out from all of that work and dreaming of sabotage and mayhem, just like all boys his age. Tomorrow brings new things, and we’ll be first in line.
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  • Day 8

    Raymonds...

    July 10, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Day eight. The old townhouse was in a great location, it was close to the waterfront, close to coffee shops, and close to a kids park with a pool, slides, and swings. It was pretty damn perfectly placed for us, but the insides reflected the house that the mad hatter probably lived in with Alice, Tweedle Dee, and the Queen at some point I think. The town house was tall and narrow, as town houses tend to be, it was old and redone several times; the latest attempt of uniqueness backfired is some ways however. The basement, that is accessed by a dangerous spiral staircase has been christened a bedroom by its owner by simply putting a bed in a basement and calling in a bedroom. It also had a toilet with teeth...literally. The main floor was the communal living space with kitchen and living room. Middle floor was our bedroom that had its own living room and a bedroom with a spongy hospital like mattress that was not comfortable and probably not hygienic. Top floor had another bedroom and bath and same bed setup...so we didn’t really sleep well needless to say but sleep is for the rested and we have no time to rest. First outing was to the Ocean Science Center that had a small tank of sea sponges and starfish that kids could pick up and torture. Most of the starfish were missing appendages that haven’t grown back yet. We also saw some seals that were learning the difference between white and gray... you know, because that’s an important seal skill. I personally think that they just wanted the fish and will do what the fuck ever to get it.
    After all that fun, we headed to a little beach we read about called Middle Cove Beach, or better known as Middle Earth. I fully expected Gandoff to appear on the cliff above us on his horse and to fairy float down with his pipe. This place was cool... black pebble beach with jagged cliffs that went right to the water. Water was blue green like an iceberg because one just melted in it I think. The water was just slightly above freezing...nobody swam. But it was a fantastic place for a picnic and an opportunity to let the young wildlings run and roar. I attempted to fly my drone for the first time while on this trip here. For once the wind wasn’t hurricane force and I was NOT in a drone prohibiting environment...freaking national parks...but, stupid me did not charge my RC so I just threw it off one of the cliffs thinking it would somewhat sail down...
    After all that relaxing crap, Forest, Heleen, and myself thought we would take a small hike that just so happens to start at a brewery. Heather, James, and I already visited it once so I was a regular by now and loved by all the staff. I showed Forest and Heleen around, introduced them to the hip hipsters, and we enjoyed ourselves a tasty beverage before our hike. It was quick as hikes go, but beautiful as hikes should go... exposed for the most part on cliff sides and rock outcroppings, the wind was unrelenting. We ended up at the point of the inlet that led to the harbor and took in the view. Canada parks have started placing two red chairs in their national parks in certain places that offer a beautiful setting to sit down and relax for a bit. The idea started in Gros Morne National Park and has spread to others around the country. We found two and tried them out on our hike; they didn’t disappoint.
    After arriving back at the house, Heather and I got all prettied up to head out on a date in St. Johns. A few days before we left on our trip, we both watched Anthony Bourdain’s travel show, “No Reservations”, where he featured a restaurant in St. John’s called Raymond's. He said in the show that it was one of the country’s top restaurants, and it was extremely difficult to get a table. For some reason I can’t explain we got one, a two seater at 9:30pm, the last one.
    There are a few times in life where you have an experience that you really can’t do justice in explaining how it made you feel. It’s like when you take a photo of something beautiful, something unreal that you’re sure once you share it everyone will be instantly transported into your shoes and say...”Holy Shit!”. But it never really works that way; there are just things that have to be seen or felt or tasted to really understand the magnitude of the experience. Eating at Raymond’s was one of those times... We both had the 7 course tasting menu with wine pairing. The whole meal, from bar cocktails to the after dinner cappuccino was a story. Each morsel of food or drink came with a tale to tell; the manner in which it all was presented was an art form in itself. We left Raymonds knowing we wouldn’t eat like that for a very long time if ever again. Walking back to the house was nice, the night was cool and we were both basking in the experience of the amazing food we had just eaten. All of that came to a stop however when we walked inside to find that James had decided to have a melt down in our absence, it was past midnight and nobody in the house was sleeping...
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  • Day 9

    Thar she blows...

    July 11, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day nine. We awoke early, not hard when your bed decides to eat you and your wife by sucking you down into the middle of it. We all gathered in the kitchen to pound some coffee before our whale watching adventure began. We drove about 20 minutes out of town to a little harbor with a well reviewed whale watching boat floating in the bay. We were welcomed aboard and all sat on the top observation deck; cold but excited. The outfit was named O’Brian’s and they promised fun, puffins, and whales...what more could you ask for?
    The weather was foggy and cold, the captain forewarned that the low level fog could make spotting the whales difficult but tried to sell us on the puffin thing to make up for it... So we slowly cruised by “Bird Island” and saw thousands upon thousands of birds, puffins, gulls, and a few other species of sea fowl all making a symphony of squawks and defacing the rock cliffs they were perched on. It was a very impressive site, and it was pretty cool to see hundreds of puffins all sitting outside of their little borrows on the side of the cliff. Watching them fly would be like watching a penguin successfully fly I think, it’s awkward and amusing all at the same time.
    We left the bird paradise and went further out to sea, still somewhat enclosed in the large bay in search of water spouts as whales resurface to breath. Soon the captain spotted a few spouts close together not far off of our port side...(that’s left in captain speak). He ran on top to the bridge to control the boat better while maintaining a higher vantage point. He was getting excited you could tell as he called out the locations of the whales for all the passengers to find. Soon we easily saw three different spouts appear, all moving closer to us. The Captain informed us that we were watching three Fin whales approach; the second largest marine mammal in the sea with the Blue whale taking first. The Fins came closer, no doubt curious about the noisy humans and smelly boat that constantly roams the water. They spouted a few times and said goodbye, letting us all marvel at their size, mysticism, and our good fortune.
    On the way back to the harbor I was screeched in along with Heather and Heleen. We became honorary Newfoundlanders by wearing a stupid hat, repeating something stupid, and drinking a shot of “screech” that is supposed to resemble some sort of rum. I think the whole initiation is just so Newfoundlanders can make stupid Americans look stupider. But I got a hat out of it.
    On to Petty Harbor for a seafood lunch where we ate Moose. Some of us ate Moose anyway, Moose is good...sorta like venison but a lot bigger. I personally ate moose stew with a big heaping bowl of lobster mac and cheese; comfort food for sure on these chilly July afternoons... I wonder what they eat in January, seal fat and whale blubber perhaps.
    On the way home Forest and Heleen felt like they needed to hike off the 200 calories they ate during lunch so we dropped them off at a trail head nearby that apparently led them along some really breathtaking views. We have to take their word for it because they don’t take pictures of anything. We were tasked with kid wrangling for the evening as it was Barb and Kevin’s turn to experience Raymonds.
    We took the kids to the park, that’s just what you do when you don’t know what else to do, but they don’t seem to mind. Addie swam in the pool, naturally, and James and Mies ran around like insane small people. All had fun...all the kids had fun.
    Addie and I had a date; so we all headed home after prying little fingers away from slides to get ready.
    Addie and I had dinner alone this time at a nice downtown restaurant called Travola. It was a tapas bar and slightly out of Addie’s norm for dinner fare, which was the point of taking her here. Addie is a amazing big sister, she’s a natural at appeasing James when he’s being hard to deal with, and because of this we, her parents, often call on her to help when nothing else is working. The toddler often rules the roust, so tonight was just me and her. Addie surprised me by ordering without any prompting from me a summer salad to start, followed by pan seared Cod with vegetables, a side of Gnocchi, and a side of truffle oil fries. We shared. Before we ordered dessert I talked her into trying a raw oyster for the first time...she did too, she ate one oyster prepared with a little lemon and some sea salt. She only had one, but she said it was “unusual” and “interesting”. Not bad considering I fully expected her to tell me it tasted like a huge snot ball going down her throat. That girl always surprises me.
    After dinner Addie and I walked around the harbor for a bit wasting time before our haunted hike. St. Johns is a very old city, the oldest in fact in all of North America. So with all of that history there are some ghost stories to be sure. Awhile back some local history buffs started taking people on a “haunted hike” at night, walking around the downtown area to different sites where murders and revenge crimes were thought to occur. The guide is dressed all in black and has a wooden staff adorned with a skull. This has become a popular thing with tourists and locals alike; tonight was proof as there were roughly 80 people in attendance. It was a fun hour and a half, being led around the town by this person in black; making traffic come to a halt while 80 people suddenly streamed by coming out of some dark alleyway. Addie really enjoyed it and loved retelling the stories to everyone back home. It was a fun ending to a great stay in St. Johns. I hope to return to this little seaside city in the future; I could see spending a lot of time here.
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  • Day 10

    On the road.

    July 12, 2018 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Day ten. We woke up and started packing for the long road trip across Newfoundland to Gros Morne National Park. Originally, we had planned to spend one more night in St. John’s and to do the 8 hour drive in one go. But word was a tropical storm was on its way and pretty soon St. John’s would be swathed in rain and wind. So the new plan was to leave today and only drive half way to a town called Gander to spend the night. Forest and Heleen were worried about Mies being in the car for so long I guess, and the other point was the weather, what would we do in the rain all day besides stay cooped up together in that wonderland house? I’ll tell you, bars...pubs...drinking holes...St. John’s is famous for the pub scene.
    Regardless, we did as we were told and we left the city headed west. About an hour in we found out that the storm had missed St. John’s all together and instead settled in the middle of the island, more precisely, the middle of us. So we drove in the pouring rain for several hours until we reached Gander and the Comfort Inn, our accommodations for the night. Hotels are great fun for children. The elevators, the hallways, the ice machines, the double beds...all a playground mecca for the young, and a hellish, headache inducing prison for the old. Luckily for us there was restaurant next door that was the top reviewed eatery in Gander...it was also the only place in Gander to eat dinner so we headed over. James poured ice water in his hotdogs and fries, Heather hated her scallops that were bathed in some weird cream sauce, ( I had the same thing as Heather and didn’t mind the cream pudding). Addie had Cod tongues...yeah, Cod tongues. She actually saw Cod tongues on the menu and said, “I’ll have that!” Good on her too, she’s a hell of a little traveler. Anyway, that meal sucked. So back to the Comfort Inn we go where I have a bottle of 14 year old whiskey waiting for me.
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