Midges, Mud Pots, and the Gods’ Waterfall: A Wild

We left the cruise port at Siglufjörður and headed first toward Akureyri, where our initial mission was less glamorous but absolutely essential: a bathroom stop. Akureyri is known as the “Capital of the North,” and it felt noticeably more substantial than the tiny fishing communities we had passed through. After that brief pause, we continued through the fjord tunnels and along Route 1 toward the Lake Mývatn region.

Our first major stop was the Skútustaðagígar pseudocraters. They looked peaceful enough—rounded volcanic formations scattered around the lake—but the atmosphere came with an unexpected complication. This was our formal introduction to Icelandic midges.
They were everywhere, tiny and persistent, turning a beautiful volcanic landscape into a test of patience and personal space.

From there we continued to Dimmuborgir, the “Dark Castles,” where the scenery became far more dramatic. More than two thousand years ago, volcanic lava flowed across the land and reached a lake. The water trapped beneath the lava turned to steam, cooling and shattering the molten rock. What remained was a strange maze of jagged pillars, arches, towers, and cavern-like formations.
Dimmuborgir felt like a place designed for legends. Icelandic folklore places trolls and hidden people among the lava formations, and the area is also connected with the country’s Yule Lad traditions. Game of Thrones viewers may recognize it as the setting associated with Mance Rayder and his wildling army. Standing among the black rock formations, it was easy to understand why the landscape has inspired both folklore and fantasy.

After Dimmuborgir, we stopped at Goðafoss, the “Waterfall of the Gods.” Justin said it gave him Great Falls, near Washington, D.C., vibes. To me, it had a little of Niagara about it, but with prettier surroundings: smooth volcanic rock, vivid green vegetation, and tiny violet flowers scattered through the landscape. The waterfall itself was impressive, but the surrounding Icelandic scenery made the whole stop feel especially beautiful.

As we continued through the Mývatn region, we saw Hverfjall Crater from a distance. We did not climb it, but its broad volcanic shape was still an unforgettable part of the landscape.

Our next stop was the Hverir/Námafjall geothermal area, and the weather had become thoroughly Icelandic; cold, wet, gray, and full of drifting steam.

The sulfur smell was intense enough to trigger a headache, so I stayed m closer to the backpack, searching for Excedrin and anything warm. Justin, meanwhile, went out solo with the tour group to investigate the bubbling mud pots and steaming ground. His report was wonderfully concise: “It smelled like farts and eggs.” He also described bubbling pools, hot steam pushing out of the ground, and gray sludge churning beneath the surface. In the photographs, the geothermal area looks almost lunar. Pale mud, steaming vents, barren ground, and people disappearing into the mist. It was strange, slightly intimidating, and completely unlike anywhere either of us had experienced before.

Eventually, we escaped the sulfur and rain and stopped at Hotel Laugar, a former school building, for refreshments. It was a welcome change from volcanic mud, biting midges, and geothermal fumes.

Afterward, we began the long return toward Siglufjörður, passing back through Akureyri. By then, the shops had closed for the day, so there was no opportunity for browsing. But honestly, after the weather and the long drive, we were both ready to return to the ship anyway.

The day had taken us from a tiny, isolated fishing port through tunnels, waterfalls, pseudocraters, lava castles, distant volcanoes, steaming sulfur fields, and a former school turned hotel. That is the thing about Iceland: even a simple drive between towns can feel like travelling across several different planets.

TLDR:
Siglufjörður cruise port → Akureyri bathroom stop → fjord tunnels and Route 1 → Skútustaðagígar pseudocraters → Dimmuborgir → Goðafoss → Hverfjall viewed from the road → Hverir/Námafjall geothermal area → Hotel Laugar → Akureyri → Siglufjörður.Read more