Prelude
July 15, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F
🎶Summa-Summa-Summertime… Let’s just sit back and unwind…🎵
This summers adventure is to experience the upcoming total eclipse with a nautical spin. Our first total eclipse witnessed together was in 2017. We took a road trip to Pigeon Forge, Tennessee for the weekend and witnessed the August 21, 2017 total solar eclipse in a Knoxville field. Years later, on April 8, 2024, we watched another total eclipse from our front yard in Ohio.
Each experience reminded us how incredible it feels to pause, look skyward, and share a rare moment with the people around us. This summer we’re putting combining our latest cruising hobby with an opportunity to view an Eclipse at sea!
To kick off the summer adventure, we begin with a 2 weeks among the turquoise waters of the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos, exploring new ports and adding more stories to our travel journal. Then our journey turns north toward the British Isles and Iceland, where we will chase the total solar eclipse and explore more ports and bustling cities.
This voyage brings together two things we treasure: discovering new places and experiencing moments we will remember for years to come.Read more
Two Days at Celebration Key: Is Pearl Cove Worth I
July 25 on the Bahamas ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F
We spent two days at Celebration Key during our two weeks aboard Carnival Venezia this summer, which gave us a chance to experience the destination a little differently each time. Our first visit focused almost entirely on Pearl Cove, while our second gave us more time to wander around Celebration Key and see what the different areas had to offer.
For our first visit, we had access to Pearl Cove courtesy of our Carnival Elite casino invite. Pearl Cove is the adults-only area at Celebration Key, and Carnival offered three different access options through Shore Excursions:
1. Entrance only, which includes access to the facilities, beach, pool, loungers and a welcome rum punch.
2. Package 1 + Unlimited Drinks
3. Package 2 + Food, essentially the all-inclusive option
We aren’t big foodies, but we do drink plenty of water and cocktails on a beach day, so Package 2 (Entrance + Drinks) made the most sense for us.
After applying the shore excursion promotional credit included with our Elite offer, we paid only $11 out of pocket per person. The regular price was around $160 per person, so our casino offer made this an easy decision.
Pearl Cove has some gloriously thick cushioned loungers complete with headrests. There were plenty of umbrellas and side tables available during our visit, and the beach itself felt much less crowded than the shoreline around Calypso Lagoon.
The water and beach were lovely, although some areas were a little rough on my feet.
Pearl Cove provides towels, so there was no reason to haul towels off the ship with us.
There are also two restroom facilities. One is near the towel hut, while the much nicer facility sits behind the pool near the restaurant and bar. This one also has lockers and a baby-changing station, which made me pause considering Pearl Cove is supposed to be adults only. 🤷🏻♀️
Our drinks package included up to 10 drinks per person. One important detail: bottled water counts toward your 10.
We didn’t purchase the food package or eat inside Pearl Cove. There are several food trucks around nearby Calypso Lagoon serving things like chicken tenders, sandwiches, wings and burgers. Look for the “Island Eats” section on the menus for selections included with your Sign & Sail card.
Getting to and from Pearl Cove was also easy. The tram stop sits directly in front of the entrance.
Returning to the ship was another story.
Around 2 PM, there tended to be enough people waiting that you might have to wait through one or two trams. Both days, we decided walking sounded better than standing around in the heat waiting.
From Pearl Cove, it took us about seven minutes to reach the big Celebration Key sun sign at the entrance, then another five minutes or so along the pier to reach the ship. If you’re mobile and aren’t carrying much, the walk isn’t bad at all. Pearl Cove provides the towels, so we didn’t have much to haul back anyway, and the breeze made the walk pleasant.
💡 TIP: Before leaving Pearl Cove, grab a bottle of water to take with you. After several hours at the beach and pool, you’ll appreciate having something cold to drink on the walk back and while waiting in line to board the ship.
On our second visit to Celebration Key we spent more time walking around before settling in for another beach day.
I like how Celebration Key is divided into different “neighborhoods.” Rather than trying to make one giant pool and beach area work for everyone, Carnival has separated the destination based somewhat on the atmosphere you’re looking for.
Starfish Lagoon caters more toward families with younger kids. Calypso Lagoon has more music and energy for older kids and adults looking for a livelier atmosphere. The pool and slides looked fun, and those swings at the bar are admittedly pretty cute.
We also wandered through the shopping areas. The straw market had the usual assortment of dresses, shell and beaded jewelry, bags and handmade crafts you’d expect to see at Caribbean straw markets. The prices caught my attention, though. A posted sign indicated everything was $65 and up. I have a hard time believing every little beaded bracelet costs $65, so take that information for what it’s worth.
There were also several familiar cruise-port shops, including Del Sol, perfume and sundry shops, souvenir stores and Cariloha. We stopped in an artisan jewelry store with some lovely pieces, although by this point Justin was officially over my browsing. 😂
Our original plan for the second visit was to try the beach near Starfish Lagoon. During our previous stop, the shoreline to the right of the pier appeared less crowded, so I thought it might make a good place to spend the day.
Justin had another idea. He wanted those ridiculously plump Pearl Cove loungers again and I couldn’t exactly argue with that logic.
Back to Pearl Cove we go! This time we picked loungers closer to the pool for a while before eventually relocating toward the shoreline. Between the sound of the waves, the breeze coming off the water and those giant cushioned loungers, the beach ultimately won.
Having two visits to Celebration Key worked out well because we didn’t feel any pressure to see everything in one day. The first visit gave us a relaxing Pearl Cove beach day. The second gave us time to explore the rest of the destination before deciding that, yes, we’d still rather spend our afternoon back at the laid back Pearl Cove.Read more
Half Moon Cay
July 26 on the Bahamas ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F
RelaxAway, Half Moon Cay: Our Favorite Beach Paradise Yet
Of all the beaches and tropical destinations we’ve visited, RelaxAway, Half Moon Cay has earned the top spot for us. This place is gorgeous.
The combination of powdery white sand, turquoise water and a lush green backdrop feels like everything we want from a Caribbean beach day. The water is incredibly clear and calm, almost like swimming in a giant pool. We spent our time floating and playing in the sea, walking along the soft shoreline and enjoying a beach where we never felt crowded or pressured to buy anything.
One thing we especially appreciate is the absence of vendors walking the beach and soliciting guests. There are plenty of loungers and umbrellas, so the whole experience feels easy and relaxed.
And Half Moon Cay finally has a pier!
Previously, visiting the island required tendering from the ship, which was one of the biggest drawbacks we heard about from past visitors. The new pier makes arriving much smoother. You walk directly off the ship into a newly developed welcome area with shops, transportation and facilities waiting for you.
Getting Around RelaxAway
Once you arrive, the cay is divided into several stops connected by trams. Each area has a slightly different feel, and the umbrella colors make your stop easy to identify from the beach.
Stop 1: Welcome Center
This is your introduction to RelaxAway. From here, you’ll hop aboard a tram for the quick ride to the different beach areas.
The Welcome Center also has the largest shopping selection we saw, with apparel and souvenir items. If you want something commemorative from Half Moon Cay, I’d browse here before heading back to the ship.
Stop 2: Mango
Look for the brown-striped umbrellas.
Mango had the quietest atmosphere during both of our visits. Orchid Beach Grill is located here, although it was closed both times we visited. Perhaps the lack of an operating grill helps explain why fewer people seemed to settle in this area.
For anyone looking for a quieter beach day, Mango is worth checking out.
Stop 3: Lime
The teal umbrellas mark the Lime stop.
This area has cabanas available for rent along with a small shop carrying forgotten beach essentials and souvenirs. The shop here is much smaller than the one at the Welcome Center, but convenient if you realize you need something after settling onto the beach.
Stop 4: Pineapple
Pineapple offers more beach-day amenities, including a beach bar, cabanas and daybeds for rent. You’ll also find beach rentals such as floats and kayaks.
Stop 5: Guava
Look for the coral-striped umbrellas.
Guava seemed to be the most popular stop and had a noticeably livelier atmosphere. If you want a more upbeat beach-day vibe, this is the area I’d head toward.
It’s also home to the first-aid station and Hibiscus Beach Grill, where guests receive a complimentary lunch. The menu includes BBQ, burgers and cold sides.
Our tip: If you plan to eat here, head over around 11:15 a.m. to get ahead of the lunch rush.
Stop 6: Avocado
Avocado offers many of the same beach amenities as Pineapple, giving you another option if you’re looking for rentals and a more developed beach area.
More Than a Beach
As beautiful as the shoreline is, there’s more to explore around RelaxAway. Scenic nature paths wind through the cay, and there are several picture-perfect sculptures and installations along the way that make fun photo stops.
For guests who want something beyond a lounger and umbrella, daybeds, cabanas and villas are available to rent.
The new infrastructure is also a major improvement. Each stop has modern bathroom, shower and locker facilities nearby, which makes spending an entire day ashore much easier. We didn’t use the lockers, so I’m still unsure whether you bring your own lock or rent one through the beach rental stand.
Our RelaxAway Verdict
Half Moon Cay is exactly what we want from a Caribbean port day: gorgeous water, soft sand, plenty of shade and loungers, lush scenery and enough facilities to make the day comfortable without taking away from the natural beauty of the island.
We’ve visited plenty of beautiful beaches during our travels, but this one stands out.
There’s something about walking into water so clear you can see straight through it, looking back at the brilliant white shoreline against all that greenery and realizing there’s nowhere else you need to be for the day.
Give us a lounger, an umbrella and that turquoise water and we’re happy.
RelaxAway, Half Moon Cay has officially become our favorite beach paradise yet.Read more
Grand Turk: We Got It Right the Second Time
July 27 in Turks and Caicos Islands ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F
Grand Turk was one of those ports where our first visit was more of a learning experience. We walked out of the cruise port shop with no idea where we were going, and the whole area felt a little overwhelming at first. By our second visit a week later, we had a much better plan.
On our first day, we quickly learned the basic layout. When you exit the port shop, walk straight and head to the right for the golf carts and shore excursions. For the beach, head left.
Once you reach the beach, you’ll likely encounter people offering chairs for rent. Keep walking. Free loungers are available farther down once you get beyond the shops.
The bigger challenge is shade.
If you want a good spot along the shoreline with some protection from the sun, arrive early or reserve something ahead of time. Shade was difficult to find, and that Grand Turk sun was intense.
We eventually found loungers near Margaritaville and settled in. We lasted about an hour. Between the strong sun and minimal breeze, we were cooked and ready to retreat. Thankfully, the ship was only about a seven-minute walk away, so calling it quits for the afternoon was easy.
Grand Turk: Take Two
When we returned the following week, we knew exactly what we wanted to change. We wanted shade, more open ocean in front of us, fewer buildings around us, and preferably a view that didn’t consist of two giant cruise ships sitting at the pier.
We decided to walk down the beach and try Jack’s Shack, a beachside bar we had read about before our visit.
From the cruise port, it took us about 15 minutes to walk there. We passed the main port area, rows and rows of green rental umbrellas, and Sea-Doos lined up along the shoreline waiting to tempt beachgoers.
Then we reached Jack’s Shack.
This was much more our speed.
There were drinks, snacks, music, bathrooms, and loungers with umbrellas available to rent. We had read that a food purchase was required for the rentals, but that wasn’t the case during our visit. We paid $23 USD for two rentals.
If you want one of the coveted front-row setups right along the water, prebooking is your best bet. Those were already spoken for when we arrived. We ended up in the second row, which turned out to be perfectly fine.
The farther we walked from the cruise port, the less crowded the beach became. There were also fewer buildings blocking the breeze. Instead of staring at a massive cruise ship all afternoon, we had a much more open view of the turquoise Caribbean.
The water also seemed cleaner with less debris floating around than what we experienced closer to the ships.
For us, the extra 15-minute walk was worth it. Our second Grand Turk day felt much more like the relaxing Caribbean beach day we had hoped for the first time around.
A Few Grand Turk FYIs
Something we found interesting about Grand Turk is that Turks and Caicos is a British Overseas Territory, yet the U.S. dollar is the official currency. That makes spending pretty straightforward for American visitors.
Credit and debit cards are widely accepted, but having some cash is still a good idea for smaller businesses and taxis. ATM availability is limited, so bringing some U.S. dollars from the ship saves the hassle of hunting one down.
Also remember to account for taxes, service charges, and tips when budgeting for your day ashore. Turks and Caicos adds a 12% tourism tax to many tourism-related purchases, and restaurants often add a service charge. Check your bill before adding a tip so you know what has already been included.
Our biggest lesson from two visits to Grand Turk: don’t judge this port by the first few hundred feet of beach.
If you want convenience, the cruise port beach puts you steps from the ship, shops, Margaritaville, and plenty of activity. If you want more breathing room, shade, breeze, and open-ocean views, keep walking.
Our first visit lasted about an hour.
Our second lasted considerably longer.
Sometimes the best thing about visiting the same port twice is getting a do-over.
Map courtesy of VisitTCI.com, included to help give you the lay of the land.Read more
TWA Hotel Day Tripper
July 31 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
Is a TWA Hotel Day Room Worth It? Our Day Tripper Experience Between a Cruise and an International Flight.
Our cruise ended at 7:30 that morning. Our flight to London didn’t leave until 8:15 that evening. Originally Justin was scheduled to be actively working all day as we awaited our flight.
That left us with one problem every traveler eventually faces. What do you do with nearly twelve hours to kill and no vehicle/desire to drive, when the airline won’t even accept your luggage until three hours before departure? Our solution was to book a day room at the TWA Hotel next to JFK Terminal 5.
Walking through the doors feels like stepping into another decade; 1960.
The restored TWA Flight Center is packed with mid-century design, vintage airline memorabilia, retro furnishings, and enough photo opportunities to keep aviation fans entertained for hours. Even the staff uniforms help sell the illusion that you’ve traveled back to the golden age of flying.
For a few hours, the hotel became our home base. We wandered through the terminal, admired the architecture, grabbed a light snack, handled a few phone errands, and most importantly, took a much-needed nap after leaving our cruise ship that morning.
The convenience alone made the booking worthwhile. That said, there were a few surprises.
Our seven-hour day room cost roughly $350. Looking back, I probably would have booked only a four-hour stay, which would have cost around $120 and still given us enough time to rest before heading back to the airport.
The room itself was comfortable but far from perfect. Despite the room listing mentioning a refrigerator, ours contained only a locked, empty wine cooler. If you’re traveling with medication that requires refrigeration, don’t assume you’ll have one available. The walls and hallway doors were also much thinner than expected. If you’re hoping for uninterrupted sleep before a long-haul flight, bring earplugs.
We also paid extra for a Terminal View room. Don’t. At least on the sixth floor during our visit, the view consisted almost entirely of construction. We closed the blinds within minutes and never opened them again.
Another disappointment was discovering that day room guests don’t receive access to either the rooftop infinity pool or Connie, the beautifully restored vintage airplane that’s now a cocktail lounge. I understand limiting amenities for shorter stays, but it’s worth knowing before booking.
One last hiccup came from the lobby photo booth. We took several photos expecting printed keepsakes or emailed digital copies. Neither ever arrived. Small issue?Yes, but still disappointing nevertheless.
So would I recommend a TWA Hotel day room? Yes, with a few caveats.
If your priority is squeezing every dollar from your hotel budget, I’d probably look elsewhere.
If your priority is convenience between a cruise, an international flight, or a long layover, the location is difficult to beat. Having a private room to shower, nap, recharge your devices, and relax before another travel day made a noticeable difference in how we felt boarding our overnight flight.
Would I stay overnight? Probably not.
Would I book another short day room if I found myself with another long layover at JFK? Yes.
Next time I’d book fewer hours, skip the upgraded view, pack earplugs, and spend the money I saved on a better meal instead.
• Location: 10/10
• Sleep Quality: 5/10
• Value: 6/10
• Convenience: 10/10
• Amenities: 6/10
• Would I Stay Again? Yes, but only for a short day room.Read more
Farewell Manhattan, Hello London
August 1 in England ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F
Our cruise officially came to an end at 7:30 a.m. when we hustled off Carnival Venezia as early as possible. We wanted every minute we could get because we had one goal for the day: make our way from Manhattan to London with as little stress as possible.
One lesson we definitely learned? Summer sailings from New York and New Jersey on a Carnival Fun Ship aren’t for us. Between kids running the halls, cabin doors slamming from morning until night, and the overall energy onboard, we were more than ready to trade the ship for solid ground.
We expected disembarkation to be delayed because the previous sailing had disembarked almost an hour late. Instead, we found ourselves standing outside Pier 88, earlier than anticipated and New York greeted us with all the subtlety of a fire alarm.
Our DRVN chauffeur wasn’t due for another 45 minutes, so we stood in the chilly morning air surrounded by semi-trucks, traffic whistles, and dock workers calling instructions across the terminal. After more than a week listening to waves and live music, the city’s soundtrack hit like sensory overload.
Safely dropped off at JFK we spent several hours Daytripping (aka day use rental) at TWA Airport located adjacent to T5. It was a neat fieldtrip back to 1960 during the best of TWAs legacy but we weren’t able to recharge well before our overnight flight.
We were surprised to breeze through security at such a large airport during 4pm. CLEAR finally justified its annual fee, and we settled into the Delta Sky Club for dinner before boarding our six-hour flight to London.
The flight started off uneventfully until our seat’s charging outlet gave up. Normally I’d shrug and move on. Traveling with insulin and a powered cooling case changes the equation.
The flight attendants explained they couldn’t plug medical devices into crew outlets because of airline policy, though they happily kept us supplied with cups of ice. It wasn’t Plan A, but it worked.
Meanwhile, I became the human charging cable. The only way to keep our phones charging was by pressing the plug into the outlet with my foot. Twenty minutes later my leg muscles staged a protest, and I accepted defeat.
Sleep never arrived.
Justin added his own contribution to the adventure by accidentally spilling an entire cup of water into my open carry-on bag. Thankfully my electronics escaped unharmed, but my spare clothes enjoyed an unexpected wash cycle somewhere over the Atlantic.
Then came one of the biggest surprises of the flight. As passengers began leaving the aircraft, I looked around and couldn’t believe the mess.
Trash littered the aisles. Blankets lay scattered across the floor. Even complimentary First Class amenity kits had been tossed aside. I honestly can’t remember the last time I stepped off a plane that looked like that.
Justin also strongly suggested I avoid the lavatory before landing. His exact reasoning is probably best left unwritten. Let’s say I happily waited until Heathrow.
The biggest surprise of the day came after landing. I’d mentally prepared myself for the legendary Heathrow immigration lines. Instead, we scanned our passports at the electronic gates and walked straight through in seconds. Customs was easier than finding coffee.
Next up was the National Express coach to Victoria. The buses were far nicer than I’d expected, with comfortable seats, charging ports, and tray tables. We paid an extra £15 to move to an earlier departure, although finding our mysteriously missing Route 025 bus became a group activity involving several equally confused Americans. Collectively we decided to trust each other more than the departure boards, and somehow we all ended up on the right coach.
An hour later we arrived in London. Our hotel was supposedly a seven-minute walk away. AppleMaps had other plans.
Instead of arriving at the DoubleTree by Hilton London Victoria, we found ourselves wandering in completely the wrong direction before retracing our steps all the way back to Victoria Coach Station and starting over with Google Maps. Round two proved much more successful.
We reached the hotel around 10:30 a.m., only to learn our room wouldn’t be ready until 1:00 p.m. So we waited in the small lobby and fought sleep. Every few minutes one of us would do the classic exhausted head bob before jerking awake again. If anyone in the hotel bar heard a random little snore, we’ll neither confirm nor deny responsibility.
At exactly 1:00 p.m. our room was ready. We collapsed into bed for several glorious hours before venturing back out for dinner at Prezzo inside Victoria Place.
Justin chose the lobster and shrimp ravioli while I ordered the chicken parmigiana. The portions were generous, the service was warm, and the complimentary fried Nutella dough balls somehow tasted even better after nearly twenty-four hours of travel.
We boxed them up for later and happily called it a night.
By the time our heads finally hit the pillows, we’d traveled by cruise ship, car, shuttle, airplane, coach, and foot.
London had already given us plenty of stories before we’d even begun exploring.Read more
Belfast: Game of Thrones, Peace Walls & Cranes
August 10 in Northern Ireland ⋅ 🌧 59 °F
Our first impression of Belfast was quiet, older and a little industrial. At 64°F with 10 mph winds, I was perfectly comfortable in pants and a long-sleeved shirt, although my hands felt like popsicles. According to our local guide, Northern Ireland rarely gets much warmer than the high 60s during summer, which made one of his first bits of trivia especially amusing: modern air conditioning has roots here, along with several other scientific inventions.
Belfast’s shipbuilding history is impossible to miss. Giant Harland & Wolff gantry cranes dominate the skyline, and our guide spent quite a bit of time talking about the industry and, of course, Titanic. We also passed universities and government buildings while getting a quick introduction to the city. Along the way came plenty of Belfast name-dropping too, including C.S. Lewis, Van Morrison and actor Jamie Dornan.
The cruise port offered a complimentary shuttle into downtown, which was a nice option for anyone exploring independently. We had a full excursion planned, though, beginning with about an hour touring Belfast by coach.
And this was where the tone of our day changed completely.
I knew about the Troubles. What I wasn’t prepared for was seeing the physical division between Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods still present today.
Brick walls. Fencing. Wire. Gates separating communities.
We drove through one of those gates after our guide explained that arrangements had been made for it to be opened for our coach. Seeing the walls and gates in person was mind-boggling. Rather than feeling like we were visiting a modern European city, parts of Belfast felt frozen several decades in the past.
The flags were especially difficult for me to understand. Flags identified communities, followed in places by what felt like competing displays from across the street. The physical barriers already made the separation obvious, yet the flags seemed to reinforce who belonged where and which side held which views.
Our guide was a Belfast local, around our age, so this wasn’t ancient history being explained from a textbook. These neighborhoods are his city.
We stopped briefly at the Peace Wall, where visitors have left messages from around the world. Flags representing different countries had been painted onto portions of the wall, and we added our own messages beneath ours.
That stop left me sad more than anything else.
I kept thinking about communities continuing to live divided by walls and gates, and about the violence behind their existence. I’ve read about segregation and conflict, but physically traveling through those barriers felt completely different. I struggled to understand why such extreme separation still exists today.
After such a heavy introduction to Belfast, heading into the Northern Ireland countryside felt like a breath of fresh air.
The city gradually disappeared behind us and gave way to green pastures, open land and relatively flat countryside. During the roughly hour-long drive, our guide spent about half the time sharing Northern Ireland trivia and Game of Thrones tidbits to get everyone ready for our next destination.
One fact I especially loved involved fairy trees. Certain trees traditionally associated with fairies are left standing rather than cut down, sometimes with roads designed around them. After everything we had learned about Belfast that morning, hearing stories rooted in Irish folklore felt like quite the change of subject.
Eventually we arrived at the Game of Thrones Studio Tour.
I was pleasantly surprised by the property itself. Rather than finding some enormous attraction dominating the countryside, the studio complex seemed thoughtfully incorporated into its surroundings.
I was also thrilled Justin was willing to do this excursion with me. Fantasy isn’t usually his thing, and he’s definitely not the fantasy-reader type. Roo and I managed to get him watching House of the Dragon and a few seasons of Game of Thrones, though, so having him interested enough to spend part of our Belfast day doing this together made the experience more fun.
Inside, the tour focused heavily on original costumes and props, behind-the-scenes interviews about set construction and production, and recreations of several recognizable scenes and locations.
Winterfell was easily the highlight for me.
Seeing pieces of that world up close gave me a new appreciation for how much work went into creating the series. There were also a few interactive stations scattered throughout the tour. We played with the Hall of Faces display and watched ourselves get digitally transformed into White Walkers.
The Iron Throne display surprised me for the opposite reason. I expected it to be one of the most impressive things there, but up close I found it a little underwhelming. Rather than appearing like this intimidating mass of forged steel, it looked duller and more plastic-like than I expected.
We had about two hours inside, which felt about right. I intentionally hung back from our group whenever possible so I could photograph displays without crowds of people filling every shot. The strategy worked, but there was a trade-off. By the time I reached the end, I had to speed-shop while Justin got in line for our photo session.
The photos were fun to do, although my solo shot wasn’t a keeper. I had to hurriedly throw on a costume, didn’t particularly like what I ended up wearing, and the final photo wasn’t one I loved. Still, the experience gave us a laugh.
My actual souvenir was much better.
I found a light gray sweatshirt featuring a map of the Game of Thrones lands with gold embroidery. Finding the right size was strangely difficult, and I eventually ended up buying a small, which surprised me. Now I’m slightly terrified to wash it. If it shrinks, Mom or Roo might inherit a Belfast souvenir they weren’t expecting.
By the time we headed back toward the ship, Justin and I had pretty similar feelings about the day.
Belfast itself didn’t leave either of us eager to return. The division between communities was the part that stayed with us most, and we were shocked by how physically visible it still is. I’m glad we saw it because travel isn’t always supposed to show you comfortable or pretty things. Sometimes seeing something firsthand gives context that reading about it never did for me.
But emotionally, it was a heavy city tour.
The Game of Thrones Studio Tour completely changed the second half of our day. Without it, I think we would have returned to the ship feeling thoroughly bummed out. Instead, we finished our Belfast visit wandering through Winterfell, laughing at our White Walker transformations and coming home with a new sweatshirt I’m afraid to put in the dryer.
I later noticed that Game of Thrones Studio excursions were offered from Dublin as well, but I’m glad we chose to visit from Belfast. It gave us two drastically different experiences of Northern Ireland in a single day: one rooted in a difficult reality that I struggled to understand, and another built entirely from fantasy.
I don’t think Belfast is somewhere we’ll purposely return to, but it’s certainly a port I won’t forget.Read more
Blue Lagoon & Beyond: A Geothermal Day in Iceland
August 14 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F
Our Virgin Voyage shore excursion started at 7:45 AM, which was perfectly fine with us. The Galley doesn’t start serving breakfast until 7:00 AM, so we grabbed a few pastries to go and headed off to await our Shore Group. The morning was cool, around 47°F, but warmer than northern iceland. Turns out we were very fortunate as the sun came out for us.
As it turned out, the early start was one of the best things about this excursion because our first stop was the Blue Lagoon. Getting there early meant we arrived before the crowds really started building, giving us a much better chance to enjoy the lagoon without fighting through a sea of people.
And what a place. This was our first visit to the Blue Lagoon, and I was surprised by how modern and impressive the entire facility was. Each of us received an NFC wristband that handled pretty much everything. It gave us access through the doors, opened our lockers and allowed us to charge food and drinks to our account. Before leaving, we simply settled our account.
The gender divided locker rooms were huge, with what seemed like about ten rows of locker sections, plenty of showers and private changing areas. They even had two bathing suit dryers near the showers that were free to use. After getting changed, we headed into the lagoon.
We had about 75 minutes to enjoy the Blue Lagoon, which sounds like plenty of time until you get in and realize how much there is to explore and add in pre and post lagoon showers.
The water itself is fascinating and soothing. The aquamarine color looks almost unreal, and different areas of the lagoon varied in temperature. Some sections were surprisingly hot. We spent most of our time wandering through the different areas, checking out the steam rooms and enjoying the waterfalls. We also tried the famous silica mud mask. The line for the mask was short, so we grabbed some and applied it for the recommended ten minutes. The line to rinse it off was another story. There were only three water spouts, so everyone who had completed their ten-minute mask was waiting for a turn.
The swim-up bar was another popular spot. Since we arrived early, the line was manageable at first, but by the middle of our visit, the crowds were starting to arrive and the lines were getting noticeably longer. I tried the apple cider which was delicious and justin had gatorade to stay hydrated.
The time flew by quick but the crowds made us thankful it was time to get going. The Blue Lagoon was easily our favorite part of the excursion, and given the choice, we would have happily traded some of the other stops for another hour in the lagoon.
I also spent some time browsing the gift shop, hoping to bring home a little piece of the Blue Lagoon experience. I was specifically looking for some of the mud masks or firming eye patches, but the prices were a bit hard to swallow. I did try a few of the creams on my hand, though, because of course I had to see what all the fuss was about.
Then I found a cute hat. It was SO soft.
Unfortunately, it was also more expensive than I wanted to pay for a souvenir hat, so I reluctantly left it behind. I walked out empty-handed, but at least I got the Blue Lagoon experience.
Our next stop was a Viking museum. The highlight was an indoor replica Viking ship that we were able to walk around and explore. It was interesting to see, but overall the museum was a little lackluster for us. If the museum were a stand-alone destination, we wouldn’t recommend making the trip specifically to visit it.
From there, we headed toward the Reykjanes Peninsula.
The drive took about an hour, and much of the landscape looked familiar after our previous excursion in northern Iceland. Along the way, we saw a town that had recently been affected by lava. The town had been evacuated and abandoned, which was a sobering reminder of how active the volcanic landscape around Iceland remains.
Then, in the middle of all this rugged volcanic terrain, we spotted something completely unexpected: an actively used golf course.
A golf course.
Surrounded by lava fields.
Iceland continues to produce some strange combinations. The dark black lava rock mixed with patches of green moss and sand creates a landscape unlike anything we see at home. It looks almost otherworldly, especially when you see how close everyday life sits alongside these volcanic features.
One of the big features of this part of the excursion was the Bridge Between Continents. The bridge crosses the fissure between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, giving us another reminder of the geological forces shaping the island beneath our feet.
From there, we continued to the Krýsuvík geothermal area. I was surprised by how little sulfur we smelled at Krýsuvík. During our previous geothermal visit, the sulfuric odor was much stronger. The wind was blowing pretty steadily during this stop, so perhaps that helped carry the smell away.
The geothermal activity itself was still fascinating. Large plumes of steam shot up from the ground, and bubbling mud pools filled the landscape. Our guide repeatedly reminded everyone to stay on the designated paths and never reach into or lean over anything releasing steam. The temperatures beneath the surface are dangerous, and the steam comes out with enough force to cause serious injuries.
It was a cool place to see, but compared with the geothermal landscape we experienced earlier in northern Iceland, this one didn’t have quite the same impact. Even with the rain during our northern excursion, those sights felt more dramatic.
By the end of the day, there was no question about our favorite part.
The Blue Lagoon won.
The Viking museum was interesting enough, the Reykjanes Peninsula gave us some memorable volcanic scenery, and the geothermal area was worth seeing. But given the choice, we both would have spent more time soaking in those incredible blue waters.
The biggest lesson from this excursion? When an itinerary gives you a chance to visit the Blue Lagoon early in the day, take it. Getting there before the crowds made a noticeable difference, and we were grateful for every minute we had before the swim-up bar and mud-mask lines started growing.
As much as we enjoyed our time in Iceland, I’m not sure we’ll make a return trip. It was a wonderful experience and we’re glad we got to see it, but Iceland’s high cost for food, souvenirs, excursions and pretty much everything else is a significant deterrent for us. There are still plenty of places in the world we’d like to visit, and at Iceland prices, we might choose somewhere new instead.
For now, we’re happy to have experienced Iceland, from the dramatic volcanic landscapes and geothermal activity to soaking in the Blue Lagoon. Sometimes a trip doesn’t have to leave you wanting to come back. It’s enough to have been there and experienced it for ourselves.
TL;DR: Iceland Lessons
• Early Blue Lagoon = fewer crowds. Take advantage of it.
• 75 minutes at the lagoon wasn’t nearly enough. We both wanted more time.
• The Viking museum was interesting, but not worth a trip on its own.
• Reykjanes was cool, but northern Iceland’s geothermal scenery impressed us more.
• Iceland was a great experience, but the high cost makes a return trip less appealing.Read more
A Quiet Day in Ísafjörður
August 14 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 48 °F
We took a casual stroll through town of Ísafjörður, the largest town in the Westfjords (a peninsula in northwest Iceland) today, with no real agenda other than exploring at our own pace. The town has several charming boutique shops featuring artisan pieces, including earrings, mixed-fabric creations, knitted items, ceramics, and art prints.
Justin was hoping to find bottled water to bring back onboard. Bottled water is limited on the Valiant Lady ship, especially in the casino, where bottled water is one of the “drinks” included with our fare. I will say there are plenty of water refill stations throughout the decks and if you ask your room attendant they will provide you with a caraf of sparkling or still water when they service the room. However Justin has a fear of water he hasn’t filtered himself hence the aforementioned scavenger hunts. Also, i’ve found these mundane tasks a charming errand for us to tackle together. It gives a morsel of satisfaction to check an item to check off the list, IYKYK. We stopped at a local grocery store hoping to find some large bottles, but unfortunately, we struck out. We did find Paprika Pringles, though. They’re my favorite flavor and one of those European grocery-store finds I always look for, so the water mission turned into a snack acquisition instead.
There were a few vendors set up near the port selling their wares, but we weren’t dressed warmly enough to spend much time outside. By around 1 p.m., we decided to head back to the ship for warm beve’s and snacks.
The scenery here is stunning. Low clouds seemed to brush across the tops of the nearby cliffs and stayed around for much of the day. By 4 p.m., they were still hanging around, so we decided to bask in the sun on the top deck and enjoy the scenery from there.
I purposely left today free of shore excursions. After several busy days of exploring, I wanted to build in a true rest day so we could recharge. Sometimes a slow day is exactly what you need during a long trip.
Iceland definitely gave us a reminder about prices too. Once converted to U.S. dollars, some of the prices were enough to make me pause. I spotted a beaded bracelet for my niece but put it down at $17 USD. A gorgeous wool sweater was priced around $269 USD. That particular shop, Icewear, was more of an upscale souvenir and cold weather base layer store than one of the small independent boutiques, but the price still gave me sticker shock. I also found a cute Iceland beanie and a puffin beanie. I liked it enough to consider buying one, but after seeing the price of the sweater, I decided I was too afraid to look at the tag!
For today, though, the best part of Ísafjörður was simply slowing down, enjoying the scenery, wandering through town, and giving ourselves permission to rest.
TLDR; Water was the Mission. Pringles were the Prize. Iceland prices are Painfully Steep.Read more
Edinburgh: Castles, Chocolate & Tender Lines
August 18 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
We had a lovely overcast and breezy day in Edinburgh. Our tender to shore took a while, but by noon we were finally dropped off by coach in Charlotte Square with about five hours to explore.
Being part of the WhatsApp ship group proved to be incredibly helpful. Cruisers were sharing instant updates about everything from where the coach would drop us off, to why tendering was delayed, to which groups were being called for shore excursions. It was especially helpful when we were trying to figure out what was happening in real time. I’m seriously considering starting a group for our Japan cruise.
But back to Edinburgh.
We started our day with a snack and coffee stop at Coro Chocolate Cafe, and it was deliciously decadent. My cake, pistachio ice cream and flat white were the perfect combination. Justin went all in with Ferrero Rocher pancakes, ice cream and a hot chocolate. So much for easing into the day.
From there, we popped into a few shops along Princes Street and stopped for photos along the river as we made our way toward Waverley Station. We needed to exchange our vouchers for the HoHo bus, Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace.
The Sightseeing HoHo agent asked why we had purchased a 48-hour ticket when we were only in Edinburgh for the day. We hadn’t realized that was what we had purchased, so that’s something we’ll pay closer attention to when booking through Tripadvisor or Viator in the future. Booking directly through the HoHo company might make more sense.
Another lesson learned: check the HoHo route map online before your port day. Look closely at the stops and compare them with the locations where your cruise coach will drop you off and pick you up. The HoHo buses follow specific routes and stops, so knowing where you’ll actually connect with the bus ahead of time could save precious sightseeing time and money.
In the end, the 48-hour ticket was rather beside the point. With only about four hours of actual sightseeing time, there was barely enough time to visit one major attraction let alone tour the city by bus.
We had a 2:30 PM timed entry for Edinburgh Castle, so we spent nearly an hour trying to find the correct HoHo bus and then sitting in traffic aboard said bus (retracing our walking path down Prince’s St, seriously why did the agent direct us to such a far away stop) until we were close enough to the castle to walk. We were closer to the castle when bc we originally got off the VV transfer into town!
Additionally, Justin hurt his knee on the cobblestones while we were making our way to the HoHo bus, so the monstrous stairs leading up to the castle entrance were less than ideal. Neither were the steep, sloped corridors inside the castle.
Fortunately, Justin still enjoyed our visit and explored the many turrets, halls and rooms. We attempted to see the Crown Jewels, but the line was ridiculously long, so we skipped them rather than spend a big chunk of our limited time waiting.
By the time we finished exploring, we officially abandoned any hope of making it to Holyrood Palace. It was on the opposite side of town, and with a 4:30 PM closing time, there was no realistic way to get there and see much before it closed.
Instead, we walked back down the hill and retraced part of our bus route toward an Art & Design Fair near Usher Hall. We browsed for a bit before making our way back to Charlotte Square to catch the coach to Queensferry.
And then came the VV tender line.
The line at Queensferry was ridiculously long. Thankfully, it moved much faster than it looked like it would, thanks to help from Maid of Forth which could carry significantly more passengers than VVs tender boats.
Queensferry itself caught our attention, too. From what we saw, it looks like a quaint little town along the Forth, and we’d definitely like to spend more time exploring there on a future visit.
TL;DR: Edinburgh Lessons
• Check the HoHo map and compare stops with your cruise coach drop-off and pickup points. A bus might not even be needed
• Don’t overpack a short port day. Tendering, coach transfers, traffic and lines eat into your sightseeing time.
• Sightseeing guideline: 2 hours = 1 major activity.
• Leave room for the unexpected. Edinburgh reminded us that flexibility matters.Read more
One Last Detour: Portsmouth -> LHR -> JFK…
August 20 in England ⋅ 🌙 66 °F
There is something strange about the last morning of a long trip. After 15 nights aboard Valiant Lady, we were finally leaving the ship and heading home. After weeks of airports, hotels, ports, buses, trains and ship corridors, the adventure was winding down.
We had scheduled an 8:45 a.m. disembarkation so we could catch Virgin Voyages’ 10:00 a.m. coach to Heathrow. For the first time ever, Justin agreed to leave our luggage out the night before for the crew to collect. Given what happened next, I was especially grateful.
The bridge from the ship to the terminal was steep. Ridiculously steep. Getting through with a wheelchair turned into a two-attendant operation and a major struggle. Watching them maneuver through the space made me wonder how many passengers face the same problem and whether there is a better way to handle that transition.
Despite the early start, we did not make our way completely off the ship until around 9:45. Then came the luggage pickup, the terminal and finally the coach.
Once we were settled on the bus, the morning became much easier. The two-hour ride to Heathrow cost us about $90, but after weeks of moving from one place to another, paying for a nonstop, door-to-door transfer felt worth every penny. For once, neither of us had to figure out trains, taxis, luggage or connections. We could sit back and watch England pass by.
Our only complaint was that the charging ports on the coach did not work for us. After relying on our phones for boarding passes, directions, reservations and everything else during this trip, arriving at the airport with fully charged phones would have been nice.
Heathrow itself felt like a study in contrasts. Customs was remarkably easy compared with what I remember from traveling internationally 20 years ago. The process has changed so much that what once felt like a major ordeal now barely registered as part of the journey.
The airport, though, felt tired. The duty-free shopping area and food options were impressive, but once we moved toward the gates, the hallways and seating areas felt decidedly less polished. We were also surprised there was no Amex lounge available in the Virgin Atlantic and Delta terminal.
With several hours to kill before our 4:00 p.m. flight to JFK, we settled into the Centurion Lounge instead.
This was one of those travel experiences where expectations mattered. The lounge gave us somewhere to sit, which turned out to be useful because finding a comfortable seat in the terminal was difficult. Beyond that, neither of us thought the experience justified the £35 guest fee Justin paid.
The lounge was small and crowded, and finding a working electrical outlet became its own little scavenger hunt. Food choices were limited, although I did find two unexpected highlights near the tea counter: biscuits and pastel de nata. Both were delicious. The coffee machines did their job, too.
The bathrooms were another story. The ladies’ room had only three stalls, and the sink water came out almost frighteningly hot. There was a warning posted nearby about the temperature, so at least we had been warned.
Still, after spending the morning getting off the ship and across London, having a place to sit for a few hours was enough.
While we were still waiting to board our flight to JFK, we received the notification we were hoping not to see: our connecting flight to Columbus had been canceled because of weather.
Fortunately, the time difference worked in our favor. Instead of arriving in New York late at night and then scrambling to find somewhere to sleep, we had several hours to figure out a plan while we were still in London.
We briefly considered returning to the TWA Hotel, which we had stayed at during the beginning of this trip. There is something appealing about being able to walk directly from the airport terminal to your hotel, especially after a long travel day. But the price pushed us toward another option, so we booked a nearby Hilton instead. The rate was more reasonable, and the hotel advertised an airport shuttle.
There was, of course, a catch.
The shuttle did not pick up directly at our terminal. We needed to get ourselves to the Federal Circle AirTrain stop first.
By the time we landed at JFK, collected our luggage and made our way through customs, we were done. Locating the Airtrain to wait around in the rain for a hotel shuttle sounded dreadful.
So we gave up on the shuttle and ordered an Uber. $32 and 3 miles later, we were at our hotel. Not the accommodations we were expecting but the bed was comfy and clean.
We were close to home. We just needed one more night to get there.Read more
