Benni Kircher

It was just a matter of time until one of us gets sick. Poor food and water quality along the Pamir Highway are too much for our sensitive European stomachs. Maxi got sick 60 kilometers before the city of Khorogh. We cycled together to the city where he could stay in a hostel for a few days to fully recover. It is not clear when he will be able to cycle again, so I continued my journey alone.

In Khorogh, I had to make a tough decision which road to take. I have received the information from travelers that the road through the Wakhan Corridor was flooded and is closed until further notice. In turn, other travelers and some locals from the tourist office told me that it may be possible for cyclists to cross. The Wakhan Corridor is a wonderful remote area and I have been looking forward to it since I have first read about the Pamir Highway (this part is officially not part of the Pamir Highway but a detour worth to visit). Should I give it a try and cycle 140 kilometers one way to find out myself? Of course! In the worst case, I must cycle all the way back which would cost me three days on these bad roads. I’ll find out soon!

After I had left Khorogh, I cycled until the beautiful evening twilight. I was looking for a place to camp which is sometimes not so easy in that area. The military does not tolerate camping close to the border of Afghanistan. The best way is to approach them directly and ask where it is allowed. The soldiers are usually kind and willing to help. They sent me a few kilometers further to the next village where I spotted a football field with lots of kids. The kids were happy about my presence and signaled me that it is okay to stay here for the night. A boy named Khushruz came to me and invited me stay at his house. I refused many times but this 13 year old kid was very stubborn. The discussion went on for some time until it was dark. This smart little boy told me that he is afraid of the darkness. He didn’t want to walk back home alone. Yes, okay convinced! But first, you call your parents and ask if it’s okay to bring a stranger. The parents agreed and so I followed him to his house.
I have never stayed with a family before that lives such a simple life. There is no running water except for the stream outside, no furniture (just carpets), no kitchen, and no beds. And yet it was a lovely home. I wondered how much one really needs to live a good life. The family can only afford food what their gardens and animals provide. And I can say that it’s not much. I cannot imagine how tough their lives in winter must be at these altitudes.
The poverty along the Pamir Highway is clearly visible and with an average income of 80$ per month, life is very hard. And yet locals treat tourists well and invite them to drink tea or eat something.

The next morning, I continued my way towards the Wakhan Corridor. After 85 kilometers, I met a dutch couple cycling towards the opposite direction. They told me that another flood has washed away the entire road. There is currently no crossing allowed for any kind of vehicle. It would take several days to clear it. Well, it’s not the end of the world and I was in a similar situation in Albania. So, I had to cycle back to Khorogh and follow the real Pamir Highway again. But it got dark 20 kilometers before I had reached the city and I was very tired. I found a spot right next to the road in a small village. In that moment, 3 soldiers passed by and told me to continue to Khorogh. I refused stubbornly. The discussion between us and their supervisors on the radio went on for about one hour. Finally, they allowed me to stay there for one night. But not in my tent, only with my mattress. Better than nothing. Their final question if I have some vodka, cigarettes or money for them, I answered with a no. They left. Sometimes, you have to be stubborn in such situations.Read more