сент. – окт. 2024

El Camino de Santiago

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9 сентября 2024 г.
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День 1
понедельник, 9 сентября 2024 г., 22:00
☁️ 19 °C
Высота: 164 фт
Франция Le Baccara 43.48229, -1.5544343°28’56” N 1°33’16” W
2 2
A Very, Very Early Start
9 сентября 2024 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
The first thing that entered my head as the alarm went off at 02:20 was that perhaps in hindsight going on a boys trip to Puerto Banus for the last 3 days wasn't one of my best ideas.

However, the plan was to spend a couple of nights in Barritz to recover, before setting out on what is planned to be a 37 day journey on foot from St Jean Pied de Port, in the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. That's the plan anyway.

To say Biarritz is compact is an under statement, from touching down at the airport to arriving at our city centre hotel took 62 mins, including walking the 1.75 miles between the two.

Despite the recovery plan for today I still managed 23,000 steps exploring this Basque town, which is big on surfing and food.

The old harbourside restaurant we had dinner in was recommended to us by some random bloke walking his dog, who stopped and gave us a potted history of Barritz, as we stood at a clifftop viewing spot. An example of Basque hospitality or a harbourside restaurant owner, still not a 100% sure!Читать далее
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ПутешественникGood luck to you both
10.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникCheers, we'll need it!
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ПутешественникGood luck to you both 🍀 I am sure it will be a very 'Spirits tual' journey 🍻 🍹🍹😂
17.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
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День 2
вторник, 10 сентября 2024 г., 22:00
☁️ 18 °C
Высота: 144 фт
Франция Le Baccara 43.48243, -1.5544443°28’57” N 1°33’16” W
Trip To A Medieval Town
10 сентября 2024 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Today we took a 40 min bus ride to Bayonne, 8km, but a world away from Barritz. Via a pit stop in Decathlon along the way for an extra pair of hiking socks and a head torch, just in case!

Biarritz in it's current form is around 250 years old, Bayonne is around 900 years old, so hugely different architecture. A very late breakfast, including beer, sangria, and a board full of meat was followed by several hours wandering the medieval streets and visiting castles, cathedrals and the odd souvenir shop.

After a recovery nap in the late afternoon, it was out for a happy hour drink and then onto the The Newquay pub for the England game. Where we came across two heavily tattooed blokes with their tops off for some sort of photo shoot, totally random.

However, regarding the football, there was one issue, Holland were playing Germany tonight and that was the only game they could show. A guy, Max, on the table next to us went back to his hotel to get his tablet for us all to watch the England game. We were joined by a couple from Bournemouth, Caroline and Russ who were proper party people and all of a sudden a couple of quiet drinks watching the football turned into beers, shots and what have we got ourselves into.Читать далее
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День 3
среда, 11 сентября 2024 г., 23:00
🌧 16 °C
Высота: 594 фт
Франция Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 43.16294, -1.2364943°9’47” N 1°14’11” W
2 2
Last Day of Slacking
11 сентября 2024 г., Франция ⋅ 🌧 16 °C
Because of, or inspite of last night, I slept really well, it must have been the jagerbombs that did the trick.

A 30 min bus trip back to Bayonne, a stroll around the streets near the station, a haircut so I can save on the amount of Head and Shoulders I use (I've only got a small bottle, travelling light) and before we knew it we were on the 12:35 train to St Jean Pied de Port, from where tomorrow we start the Camino.

The two large carriages were full on departure and about 80% of the people on there had the same idea as we did. On arrival the first task was to register at the pilgrim office and get our official pilgrim pass, the queue took an hour to get through. Many hostels on the route won't let you in without one and it has to be stamped at your stops along the way.

The village itself is in the foothills of the Pyrenees and the high street in the old town is so steep it reminded me of the old Hovis advert. The quaint little village has an abundance of accommodation, restaurants, cafes, hiking gear and souvenir shops and it seems to be here purely to service the hords of pilgrims starting their journey.

The plan for tomorrow is to get out at the crack of dawn, which is about 07:30 in these parts, so not as bad as it sounds. The forecast is for rain, the 3rd day it's rained out of the 4 days we have been here. Living in the UK has been great training!Читать далее
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Путешественник Amazing!
20.09.2024Ответить
Путешественник Very nice!
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Путешественник Yes a beautiful building
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Путешественник What about Carol???
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День 4
четверг, 12 сентября 2024 г., 21:55
☁️ 9 °C
Высота: 3 163 фт
Испания Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles 43.01067, -1.3195743°0’38” N 1°19’10” W
The Camino Begins
12 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
We were out of our lovely, cosy attic room at 07:30 this morning and were met with rain and cold on the doorstep. Little did we know it was going to continue for the next five and a half hours. I think buying a large bottle of sun screen on Tuesday might have had something to do with this.

Today's section was just over 15 miles, 12 miles up the Pyrenees to the Lepoeder pass and 3 miles down some treacherous slopes to Roncesvalles, our stop for the night.

The first half was on a very quiet road which despite being incredibly steep in parts at least had plenty of traction. The 2nd half was less steep but the grassy sections were like quagmires, good job we both had gore-tex shoes.

Tonight we are staying in the Colegiata Convent, parts of which date back to the 12th century. There is an overflow dormitory for the summer months, 135 beds in one room!! Fortunately we are in a refurbished block, only 36 beds to a room, result! Just as well we got here early though, they lock the door and lights out at 10pm.

St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Distance: 15.33 miles
Time: 6hrs 44 mins
Speed: 2.3mphЧитать далее
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ПутешественникAmazing... it is such an enriching experience. I started mine exactly 2 yrs ago on 12th Sept. I am currently in Santiago for a reunion walk with some mates I met on my first Camino to do Camino Dos Faros. PS do walk the Meseta... don't take a bus!
12.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникThe 12th Sept, that's some coincidence. The number of people I speak to who have come back again and again is really interesting. Sounds like you caught the bug too. Hoping to walk every step, so hopefully no buses!
14.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникYou definitely get the bug and do something annually. What I would recommend is vaseline on your feet before your sock liner or toe socks (works for some) before your socks. And air your feet and socks everrytime you stop for a break. Helps prevent friction and blisters. Buen camino.
18.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникWell you need to get doing things at my age, you never know how long you can keep doing them for. Yes been putting vaseline on my feet each morning, only had one minor blister in a week, so happy with that. I'd be frightened to take my shoes off mid walk in case I couldn't get them back on!!
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День 5
пятница, 13 сентября 2024 г., 22:00
🌙 10 °C
Высота: 1 680 фт
Испания Larrasoaña 42.90348, -1.5384242°54’13” N 1°32’18” W
2
2
A Slightly Easier Day
13 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 10 °C
A guy in our dormitory last night snored like a rutting walrus, I've never heard such a guttoral sound. So the first contemplation that the Camino has delivered is that the people who snore the loudest are the best sleepers in the world, because every single time you wake up they are still bloody snoring.

The novelty of staying in a 12 century convent had soon evaporated, with both of us getting next to no sleep. It was so cold I slept with 4 layers, trousers and socks on inside my sleeping bag liner and was still not warm. Lights on at 6am and the playing of Gregorian chanting for the next hour came as a blessed relief.

Today we dropped 450m but still managed several stiff climbs and again some dangerous decents, particularly the section into Zubiri. We chatted with some interesting people along the way which help the miles pass so much more quickly.

The destination today was Zubiri, 13.5 miles from the start but we had to go on to Larisoana, another 3.5 miles, as the whole village was booked up weeks ago. At least that is 3 miles less tomorrow.

Roncesvalles to Larrasoana
Distance: 17.20 miles
Time: 7hrs 3 mins
Speed: 2.4mphЧитать далее
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Путешественник That’s so nice!
20.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
Путешественник 😮 that looks seriously tricky!
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Путешественник Yes it was really awkward and much slower.
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Путешественник It was even nicer arriving after 17 hilly miles
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День 6
суббота, 14 сентября 2024 г., 22:15
🌙 13 °C
Высота: 1 503 фт
Испания Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra 42.82042, -1.643542°49’14” N 1°38’37” W
The Shortest Day
14 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
A clear sky this morning meant a temperature of 5 degrees at 07:30. It was an hour before the sun came over the mountains and then another half an hour before I felt the first rays on my face. It's amazing how such a simple thing made us smile so much. Later in Pamplona it was off to Decathlon for a beanie and gloves for tomorrow. I thought this was summer!

Just under 10 miles to Pamplona, the easiest walk so far terrain wise and we arrived at 11:15. It gave us the whole afternoon and early evening to explore the old town. There was a fiesta on which was colourful and lively though we had no idea what was going on. The bars from early afternoon were really busy, but unlike many parts of Spain it was busy with locals rather than tourists, which was quite nice to see.

Walking around town we bumped into the Korean guy we met on the train, who's father had organised the trip for him and only told him 3 weeks before he was due to leave. He said he came close to giving up and going home on the first day. But he stuck it out and looked in quite good shape considering his lack of training.

We stayed in a nice hotel today, which did feel a little bit like cheating, but two days of bunk beds and sharing with strangers, as nice as they've been, was probably our limit.

At 17:30 we met up with Dave and Christine and American couple we met at last nights hostel. Plan was to have an early dinner however this being Spain, the earliest restaurants opened for dinner was 20:00, so had to settle for tapas and a beer.

Planned to watch MOTD tonight on my phone, using my VPN, but it doesn't start until 23:30 Spanish time. Way too late for an early rising pilgrim!

Larrasoana to Pamplona
Distance: 9.70 miles
Time: 3hrs 48min
Speed: 2.4mphЧитать далее
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День 7
воскресенье, 15 сентября 2024 г., 22:55
🌙 13 °C
Высота: 1 171 фт
Испания Puente La Reina – Gares 42.67615, -1.8064542°40’34” N 1°48’23” W
2 2 2 1
Best Walk Yet
15 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
Given it was going to take over 2 miles to get out of Pamplona we set off in the dark at 06:50 and took advantage of the street lights. Flat, paved paths meant we were able get a march on, for the first time on the whole trip really.

From Cizur Menor, 3.5 miles out of Pamplona, we caught our first glimpse of a ridge, lined with wind turbines which was around 6 miles in the distance. This was our one big climb of the day and I really like seeing something far away you can aim for. This certainly helped keep the pace up.

On the way up I got chatting to an English guy who had a dodgy knee, but was still as quick as we were. I still haven't worked out if it was discouraging or encouraging when he told me he was 79!

It was a bright sunny day with fantastic visibility from the top of the ridge and great views back to Pamplona. Following a tricky, steep decent over large loose stones we were soon motoring again. Downhill almost all the way into Puente de la Reina, our home for the night. We got in at 12:20, but couldn't check in till 13:00 so had to rehydrate in the bar. Felt like a half day.

In the afternoon we looked round the small town, found a lovely pub/bar/restaurant, did some more rehydration and received updates from home on the Spurs v Arsenal game. Will have to stay up late tonight to catch MOTD2, based on the result!!

Pamplona to Puente la Reina
Distance: 14.84
Time: 5hrs 26min
Speed: 2.7mphЧитать далее
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ПутешественникWhat are the unusual figures? How are the limbs? Hope you managed to watch the Liverpool game 😁. We’re having a spell of good weather at this week, which is good. On track? And how do you both feel?
16.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникThe figures are supposed to represent the pilgrims who have travelled the route for almost a thousand years. My calves are a bit tight and Carol got her first blister today, but it's all to be expected. All the accommodation is book so we know what we have to do each day, so far keeping up with it. Five days in now, we both felt tired this aft, looking forward to a rest day on Thursday. Also looking forward to watching the highlights of Arsenal's victory over Spurs tonight, on the phone via my VPN. Though you probably watched it live 😀.
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ПутешественникGood luck to you both 🍀 I am sure it will be a very 'Spirits tual' journey 🍻 🍹🍹😂
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День 8
понедельник, 16 сентября 2024 г., 13:46
☀️ 21 °C
Высота: 1 401 фт
Испания Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rua 42.66871, -2.0293642°40’7” N 2°1’46” W
Wear and Tear
16 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Today we seemed to set off at the same time as about a dozen other people, who were walking at our place so we seemed to be in and around them for the first couple of hours or so, whether we liked it or not.

The temperature was only about 19 degrees but walking in the full sun with little shade, for periods of time today felt tough. I can't imagine what it would be like in July / August when the temperatures get into the 30s.

With around 7 miles to go, out of the blue, my right calf felt like it was really tightening and it was really uncomfortable walking on it. It did ease over time and hopefully it will be manageable until the first rest day on Thursday.

However, we still managed to finish just after 12:30, but took it easy this aft. Had an early dinner and back to the room to rest up for tomorrow's walk, which will be the longest of the trip so far. Carol developed a large blister on the back of her heel today, so I was on lancing, disinfecting and patching up duties this evening, hopefully it will be a bit more comfortable for her tomorrow.

Puente la Reina to Estella
Distance: 14:21
Time: 5hrs 7mins
Speed: 2.8mphЧитать далее
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День 9
вторник, 17 сентября 2024 г., 20:00
☀️ 16 °C
Высота: 1 594 фт
Испания Torres del Río 42.55179, -2.271642°33’6” N 2°16’18” W
2 2 2 2
Longest Day So Far
17 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Just like the 2nd day, there was no room at the inn at today's suggested finish point of Los Arcos. The nearest accommodation we could find when planning the trip was in Torres del Rio, a further 5 miles along the route. No consolation for today but at least tomorrow will be significantly shorter.

After a mile and a half we reached Irache and the wine fountain. Where from the 10th century, monks have been offering pilgrims wine to ease their journey. However, in the mid eighties the community of monks left due to their own dwindling numbers and a local winery took up the tradition. It's now self service, two taps, one for wine and one for water, not sure the latter gets used much. The wine itself won't win any awards but I have tasted worse. So we took a little with us for later as it wasn't even 8am when we got there.

Afterwards as we climbed up through a wooden hillside I did comment that the route seemed a lot quieter today only to be told later by someone else, that we weren't on the main route but had taken the alternative scenic route involving more climbing. However, it was worth it for the views and the relative solitude.

After taking a half hour break in Los Arcos, the fairly flat extra 5 miles seemed to fly by and we were finished by 14:15. My calf was ok until 11 miles and is now more sore than yesterday. It's only 12.5 miles tomorrow and then a day off so hopefully that will help with the recovery.

Estella to Torres del Rio
Distance: 17.92
Time: 6hrs 58mins
Speed: 2.6mphЧитать далее
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Путешественник Stunning
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Путешественник It was worth the climb up that very long ladder
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Путешественник Doesn’t look at all safe! 😅
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День 11
четверг, 19 сентября 2024 г., 20:30
☁️ 20 °C
Высота: 1 283 фт
Испания Plaza del Mercado 42.46714, -2.4466642°28’2” N 2°26’48” W
A Day of Rest
19 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Regardless of today's rest day, we still woke up around 6am, felt strange rolling over to go back to sleep, but I soon got used to it.

Even in a big town it's easy to spot off duty pilgrims in the evening. The flip flops or sandals to air their feet, the lightweight hiking trousers, non creasing lightweight t-shirts or long sleeve quarter zip tops and the slow walking or even the tell tale hobble. We also fall into all of those categories.

Rain is forecast for the next few days so we spent some time hunting out lightweight ponchos, more to keep the rucksacks dry than us.

We had lunch and spent a few hours with Dave and Christine, as Logroño was as far as they were going on the Camino. They want to come back to finish it off and were a little envious of the fact we were carrying on and we felt a little envious of the fact they were going home!

Within 50 yards of leaving them we bumped into the two Australian girls we had dinner with on our first night in Roncesvalles. Then another 50 yards after that bumped into an American guy, Josh, we walked with for a few hours on the 2nd day. Which was a surprise as he had picked up a bike in Estella and was cycling to Leon before walking the rest of the journey.

Despite the day off we felt as tired as if we'd have walked, so an early night tonight ready for an early start again tomorrow.Читать далее
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ПутешественникBron, if it helps, there are 2 freed up seats at Arsenals ground going 😂
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ПутешественникYes but I would need lots of security too, so much more cost effective to watch MOTD on my VPN😁
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ПутешественникI’d rather be on the pilgrimage than watching the Gooners 😀
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ПутешественникIf it's good enough for our prime minister.......
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День 12
пятница, 20 сентября 2024 г., 20:00
☁️ 18 °C
Высота: 1 621 фт
Испания Arroyo de Pozuelo 42.41977, -2.7340242°25’11” N 2°44’2” W
Back on the Road
20 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Started in the dark this morning, with it getting just light enough as the street lights ended around two miles from the hotel. Today's surfaces were great and although we did just over 430m of climbing most of it was a manageable gradient. It did rain for an hour but that didn't seem to slow us down. We got into Najera just before 1pm, we were amazed how the time seemed to fly by today.

About 4hrs in, Josh, who we'd met again yesterday afternoon, caught us on his bike and stopped for a chat. He had his left hand and knee bandaged, as less than an hour ago, he tried taking a photo whilst cycling and ended up hitting the deck quite hard. It seems as though there is no special protection for pilgrims! This was the last we will see of him as he will be in Leon in 5 days time, we will be there in 13 days time.

This seems to be the first place we have stayed in that doesn't have a medieval background. Seems much more modern yet at the same time a bit run down.

Logroño to Najera
Distance: 17.61
Time: 5hrs 54mins
Speed: 3mphЧитать далее
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День 13
суббота, 21 сентября 2024 г., 20:00
☁️ 17 °C
Высота: 2 165 фт
Испания Santo Domingo de la Calzada 42.43962, -2.9575842°26’23” N 2°57’27” W
The Last of the Vineyards
21 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
It rained heavily overnight but by 07:40 it had stopped, leaving a misty, muggy morning. Though I think I prefer that to cold mornings, which are probably coming as we get into October.

We had probably our last roadside grape breakfast this morning as the vineyards started to give way to larger fields of more traditional crops.

About 10 miles in, just after the village Cirinuela, we went up a small rise and then suddenly in front of us the whole horizon opened up, a rolling patchwork of different fields, in several shades, at different angles and the Camino stretching out in front of us. It was as surprising as it was breathtaking, again the photos just don't do it justice.

We got in at 12:15 and luckily our room was ready. So quickly got showered, changed and out to look around the town and something to eat before the heavens opened. The town of Santo Domingo was 1,000 years old in 2019.

Today we are staying in a parador, which is a former convent or monastery converted into a hotel. We wanted to try one out to see what it was like. There are a number of these along the route and are apparently government owned. Though they are literally 10 times the price of a room in a dormitory, albeit we are only doing 4 dormitories. The first we did to see what it was like, the other three because there was nothing else available.

Najera to Santa Domingo de la Calzada
Distance: 13:58
Time: 4hrs 24min
Speed: 3.1 mphЧитать далее
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День 14
воскресенье, 22 сентября 2024 г., 21:15
☁️ 14 °C
Высота: 2 165 фт
Испания Santo Domingo de la Calzada 42.43962, -2.9576342°26’23” N 2°57’27” W
Leaving La Rioja
22 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
By 5 miles this morning we were officially out of the wine region of La Rioja and into the province of Burgos. Not only were there no grapes for breakfast but the blackberry bushes and the odd fig tree also seemed to have disappeared.

We passed through six villages today when normally it's two or three. The advantage is that it breaks up the walk and there is the interest of passing though different places. The disadvantage is that almost every village is built in high ground and you have a climb up to get to them.

This morning it was Carol's turn for her calf to tighten up, so we had to slow down from the pace we had been setting the last couple of days. However, we still got to our accommodation for 12:00. A quick shower, a tour of Belorado and then a pilgrims lunch, €14 each, for 3 courses and a bottle of wine between us.

There was an outdoor area outside our accommodation where people were drinking as we returned from our lunch in town at around 15:30. From a distance it sounded rather rowdy, though as we got there we recognised some of the people making all the noise and before we knew it we were introduced to the rest of the group and were there for the next couple of hours.

My only escape was that I'd booked a massage at 18:00, which probably save me from myself!

Santo Domingo to Belorado
Distance: 13.68 miles
Time: 4hrs 43min
Speed: 2.9 mphЧитать далее
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День 15
понедельник, 23 сентября 2024 г., 09:00
⛅ 9 °C
Высота: 3 143 фт
Испания Atapuerca 42.3755, -3.5074442°22’32” N 3°30’27” W
A Day on Higher Ground
23 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
Another of those days where we couldn't get accommodation at the guide books suggested finishing point, San Juan. So we had to walk nearly an extra 4 miles to Atapuerca making this our longest walk so far.

This was our 11th day of walking, so a third of the way to Santiago in days and just over in distance, at around 165 miles.

First light is now not until 07:40, so got the head torch out for the first time today and set off at 07:00. It felt like the first two miles in the dark we got for free.

After about 5km we saw an old boy ahead walking with what looked like a granny's shopping trolley attached to his waist, trailing behind him. It looked so awkward, jarring from one side to the other over the rough ground. He was stopping every few hundred metres, how he got up some of today's 20%+ climbs I don't know. I know there is supposed to be an element of suffering, but that is totally self inflicted. You can have your bags taken ahead for you for €7 a day. What he was doing was akin to self-flagellation.

I knew we were staying in a hostel tonight but didn't realise we were in a room of 4. The other two were a Japanese bloke who didn't speak a word of English and an American woman. In fact there are only 4 nights out of 37 where we are sharing and this is the 3rd one. We had the communal 3 course evening meal, soup, pasta with slices of meat and then a custard dessert, it was all lovely.

There were a dozen people round a large table, at our end were the American woman who was in our room, an Irish bloke and an English guy. As people drifted away after the meal the 5 of us hoovered up the remaining part bottles of wine, then opened a new one that was on the side and continued chatting till it was all gone. It was now 21:30, lights out is 22:00 in these places and I still had stuff to do like finish today's post!! Which I have now done with 5 mins to spare.

Belorado to Atapuerca
Distance: 19.43 miles
Time: 6hrs 45min
Speed: 2.9 mphЧитать далее
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День 16
вторник, 24 сентября 2024 г., 23:15
☁️ 13 °C
Высота: 2 923 фт
Испания Plaza Mayor 42.34327, -3.7046742°20’36” N 3°42’17” W
A Very Impressive Entrance
24 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
The extra miles we did yesterday meant we only had about 13 miles to do today, hardly worth lacing our boots up!

Since the first day we haven't been lower than around 400m above sea level. Though, since Logroño we have been steadily climbing each day. Yesterday we topped out at 1,150m and the start of today's walk was about 960m. So despite today's warm forecast it was jacket, hat and gloves for the first couple of hours or so.

After a sharp climb over the first mile the rest of the day was a gentle downhill into Burgos. We walked part of the way with David, the English guy we had dinner with last night and then also an American couple for the last few miles.

We took a slightly longer but more scenic route into Burgos, following the river Arlanzon through woods and parkland. The entrance into the old town was through a stunning city gate which brought you into a large square with the hugely impressive Santa Maria cathedral in front of you.

I was impressed by the gate and the cathedral in 2024, so how must pilgrims in the middle ages have reacted. I can only imagine that witnessing such a sight for the first time would have strengthened their faith and their resolve to reach Santiago.

We have a lovely little apartment for the next two nights, with washing machine! So after lunch, apart from a visit to the cathedral, free entry 16:30 - 18:30, only on Tuesdays, result. It was a quick wander around the local area, followed by 3 loads of washing. Not that we have that many clothes but we were governed by the number of radiators that we had to dry them on.

Atapuerca to Burgos
Distance: 13.07 miles
Time: 4hrs 29mins
Speed: 2.9 mphЧитать далее
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ПутешественникHello Bron - what a brilliant challenge you’ve taken on this time. It’s something I’ve wanted to do for years ever since I saw the original pilgrimage programme on BBC 2. A friend of mine did part of it a few years ago and she said it was very spiritual. I’m sure you’ll make it all the way to The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. They have a mass every day for pilgrims completing the pilgrimage and use a giant thurible for the incense that swings almost the length of the nave - it would be interesting to fill it with marijuana!!
25.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникI’m really enjoying following your pilgrimage if that’s the right expression and look forward catching up with you later in the autumn to hear more about your experiences.
25.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникWhen you get a break from child care duties you should come out and give it a go, you would really enjoy it. You meet so many people along the way, the scenery is amazing and there are lots of villages to pass through and admire.
28.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникBy the time I get off child care duties I’ll be too old and decrepit to do it!!
29.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
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День 17
среда, 25 сентября 2024 г., 09:02
☁️ 12 °C
Высота: 2 923 фт
Испания Plaza Mayor 42.34325, -3.7046142°20’36” N 3°42’17” W
A Day Off in Burgos
25 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
We woke up about 9am this morning and as I laid there I felt like I could continue to do so for the rest of the day. It's really interesting how if you keep going you can keep going, but the moment you stop you wonder how on earth you managed it. Need to make the most of today's opportunity to recharge the batteries as the next one will be in Leon, in eight days time.

The weather this morning was murky and drizzley. So we left it until 11am when it brightened a little before heading out to explore a little more of Burgos. We walked up to Burgos castle, which Wellington failed to take from the French, despite a 35 day siege, during the Peninsular War in 1812. However, it was shut for a refurb. There was a lovely panoramic view from there over the city. Though we never saw it because of the misty drizzle.

With the weather taking a turn for the worse, we bought some food, cider and spent afternoon resting up in the apartment and watching some mindless stuff on amazon prime.

By early evening it had dried and warmed up, so we found a lovely lounge bar, with comfy seats, easy music, good food and drinks. Then it was an early night for our first of eight early starts.

P. S. The comfy seats are now a must, as with the weight I've lost so far I'm finding sitting on hard wooden or metal seats rather uncomfortable!Читать далее
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ПутешественникBurgos is lovely for a day to rejuvenate
27.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникYes, beautiful city, it's a hard balance to strike in terms of wanting to see and experience it and trying to get some recovery in.
28.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
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День 18
четверг, 26 сентября 2024 г., 06:40
🌬 16 °C
Высота: 2 936 фт
Испания Iglesias 42.32379, -3.9907142°19’26” N 3°59’27” W
Population Zero
26 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌬 16 °C
Laying in bed this morning I could hear the wind blowing hard. The forecast was for 20mph+ winds and rain from 8am, unfortunately the forecast was correct. It rained more on than off and the wind was pretty constant. The first time we saw the sun all day was the moment we arrived at the hostel.

We had left at 7am as we had an extra 3.5 miles today, as again there was no room at the suggested stop, Hornillos, a one horse town with a population of 70 people. So we spent the evening in San Bol, in the middle of the Maseta, population 0. The place consisted of one building, the municipal hostel, run by a lady who comes in at 2pm, books people in, cooks the communal meal, goes home and in the morning comes back and cleans, goes home then comes back in the afternoon and does it all again. The instruction before she left in the evening was for the last person leaving in the morning to lock up and put the key in the post box. A rather trusting set up.

Only two other people decided to spend the night here, a 25 year old American lad and a 30ish year old Dutch girl. They knew each other having met at a previous hostel, she definitely had a thing for him though he seemed to play it pretty cool. So in lieu of much else to do, with no signal or WiFi, we spent the afternoon until dinner at 7pm drinking a few beers and getting to know each other, just like you used to do before the days of mobile phones.

After dinner we climbed up the hillside to catch the sunset but the point at which you could see it just seemed to get further and further away. So we just took some photos from there against the backdrop of the setting sun, the light was amazing.

Burgos to San Bol
Distance: 16.5 miles
Time: 5hrs 48min
Speed: 2.8 mphЧитать далее
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ПутешественникOh no... Hournillos.. it is part of the camino movie. We were treated with an opera performance at the Origin Restaurant. Truly amazing. It worked out I stayed in that infamous house...
27.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникI've not actually seen the film yet, on my list of things to do when we get home. I'd not heard of it until a few days before we came out here. The opera performance sounds amazing though.
28.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
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День 19
пятница, 27 сентября 2024 г., 22:35
🌙 8 °C
Высота: 2 635 фт
Испания ex-Colegiata de Nuestra Señora del Manzano 42.29246, -4.1277742°17’33” N 4°7’40” W
A Very Short Day
27 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 8 °C
With no mobile reception or WiFi, we had to resort to the old fashioned method of weather forecasting, sticking your head out the window. The wind has dropped significantly and there was broken cloud, so better than hoped for as originally it was supposed to be two days of high winds and rain.

The two youngsters we shared the albergue with last night both have a very different approach to our scheduled days and our pre-booked accommodation. They tend to decide on the day how far they want to walk, where they want to stay, if they don't like the look of a village they just move on. They spend each night in dorms trying to keep the costs to a minimum. Sounds quite free and liberating, however, the certainty of a bed in a private room each night sounds more appealing to me.

There were 4 places where we couldn't do that. Yesterday was our last night in a dorm and our best experience as there were only 4 of us in there. We were told that the previous night there were 11 people in that room and the hostel only has one toilet. I'm still shuddering at the thought of that.

Today was our shortest walk for the whole trip, so even with a late start of 08:25 we were still done before 11:15. So we had a wander around town, visited a disused church where they showed a video projected onto the ceiling and had other videos and info about the Camino in medieval times. Entry for pilgrims was one euro and that was for both of us!

So after a long, late lunch we had a couple of drinks back at our accommodation, a small beer and a red wine was 3 euros. I couldn't believe the price so had to have another round to make sure. We then just relaxed in our room, no chasing sunsets tonight.

San Bol to Castrojeriz
Distance: 8.21 miles
Time: 2hrs 49mins
Speed; 2.9 mphЧитать далее
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ПутешественникHope you checked the castle on the hill...amazing sunsets
27.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникI quite fancied going up there but after a long lunch with a bottle of wine, I was voted down on that one!
28.09.2024ОтветитьПереводить
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День 20
суббота, 28 сентября 2024 г., 21:45
⛅ 11 °C
Высота: 2 585 фт
Испания Frómista 42.26923, -4.404642°16’9” N 4°24’17” W
A Solo Walk
28 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
There was a huge drop in the wind today but also in the temperature, it was 3 degrees at 8am. I know it isn't southern Spain but certainly wasn't expecting these temperatures in September. Though by 9am it had shot up to 4 degrees. Although it was 5 degrees colder today it felt 10 degrees warmer with no wind and walking in the sun.

This morning Carol wasn't feel well at all, so rather than setting off and then feeling even worse in the middle of nowhere we decided it would be better for her not to walk today. So at 10am which was check out time she took a ride to Formista.

I left earlier at 08:30 to walk this leg on my own. Though in many ways I wasn't on my own, as I was soon passing lots of people we have met along the way. The one thing that was annoying was the distance for today in the guide book was almost a mile shorter than the actual distance. Not a lot really but when you've got your mind set on a certain distance that extra mile goes on for ages.

Carol was feeling a lot better when I met up with her just before 1pm. However, as a precaution. we spent the rest of the day in the room relaxing.

Castrojeriz to Fromista
Distance: 16.44 miles
Time: 4hrs 24mins
Speed: 3.7mphЧитать далее
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День 21
воскресенье, 29 сентября 2024 г., 09:16
☁️ 6 °C
Высота: 2 736 фт
Испания Carrión de los Condes 42.33701, -4.6017342°20’13” N 4°36’6” W
Back on the Road Again
29 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
After an afternoon and evening of resting, hydrating and carbing up Carol felt a lot better this morning . With it being a shorter and flatter walk today she was keen to give it a go.

Before we knew it we were back up to normal pace which was great and after a couple of miles were joined by a young German bloke, Nico, for the next 8 miles. The conversation was a great distraction for her and the miles just took care of themselves.

It was a very unusual stage today, about 95% of the route was on a path alongside the road to Carrion. Which wasn't too bad as it was Sunday morning and I think the Spanish do like a lay in. There was an alternative greener route, but it was longer, so didn't fancy that today.

After checking in just after 1pm we had a wander round a lively town centre, had lunch, did some laundry and then spent the rest of the day in the room for some more rest and recuperation.

Fromista to Carrion de la Condes
Distance: 11.66 miles
Time: 3hrs 47mins
Speed: 3.1 mphЧитать далее
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День 22
понедельник, 30 сентября 2024 г., 22:50
🌙 16 °C
Высота: 2 851 фт
Испания Ledigos 42.35454, -4.8654642°21’16” N 4°51’56” W
2
A Really Rural Village
30 сентября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
In days, we are now over halfway. Today we completed our 17th walking day and there are 16 walking days left. In terms of distance we have completed 247 miles, with 237 miles to go.

Today's route was flat, featureless farm land, with little shade and a 60m rise over the last mile. The first town we came across was 10.5miles in, so an enterprising person had set up a food truck about 5 miles in. The lack of shade is fine at the end of September, but I certainly wouldn't fancy it July or August with temperatures getting over 30 degrees.

Today we stayed in a small farming village, I'm not convinced it would still be here if the Camino didn't go through it. A number of the properties were built using mud bricks, made of mud, straw and stones. The place looked deserted, there were no shops, or bars or restaurants, only a couple of hostels. So I was very pleasantly surprised to find that the place we were staying in was really nice and we had quite a modern room.

Having a beer outside the hostel, in the afternoon sun, we met Matt, an American bloke we had met on the road on our 2nd day and 4 other people we had dinner with in Atapuerca. It's a small world if you follow the guide book.

Carrion to Ledigos
Distance: 14.63
Time: 5hrs 8mins
Speed: 2.8 mphЧитать далее
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Путешественник That’s a stork’s nest - you cannot believe it not ‘bigger’!
01.10.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникI didn’t realise how taxing and difficult the Camino is…. I’ve got much increased respect for my friend who did half of it on her own, she’s in her late 60’s and has a number of health issues. Good for Carol for keeping going despite being under the weather!
01.10.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникOver halfway ! Good going and well done to the both of you
01.10.2024ОтветитьПереводить
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День 23
вторник, 1 октября 2024 г., 08:23
☁️ 13 °C
Высота: 2 858 фт
Испания El Burgo Ranero 42.41745, -5.2153542°25’3” N 5°12’55” W
The Longest Day
1 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
Almost as if to celebrate reaching halfway, today's walk was to be the longest one of the whole trip. Yesterday we stopped 2 miles short of the suggested town and today we had to go 4.5 miles further than the suggested town, as we couldn't book accommodation in either.

Leaving at 07:15 now means a good 30 mins of walking in the dark with the head torch. Initially there were two different routes you could follow which came together after 5 miles. A more rural route or one following the N120 which in this area is almost deserted as they have built a dual carriageway parallel with it (I wonder where that money came from!). We took the road route and soon gave up on the path beside it and walked on the hard shoulder as it was much more comfortable and there was next to no traffic.

Now I'm a little confused, as 8 miles in we came across a little monument saying that this was the geographical mid point of the Camino. However, we had at this point walked 255 miles, meaning we would be walking 510 miles instead of 484 miles. My only hope is that they've drawn a straight line between St Jean and Santiago, or that the route on the first half goes round the houses and the 2nd half is much more direct, fingers crossed.

We had a break in Bercianos for 30 mins at 16 miles and then finished off the last 4.7 miles in decent time. Got in for 15:15, I was already showered, had a pizza and had a couple of beers by that time yesterday!

Carol booked all the accommodation online before we left home. Today's was about 600m outside the town, called Hotel Castillo El Burgo. Sounded very nice, though when we got here it turned out to be a motorway services!! At least we can get food and a beer 24hrs a day.

After a shower, rest and getting 10kg off my back I actually felt quite good so at around 17:00 we walked into the village. No bars or restaurants but we stopped at a shop that had beers in the fridge and a few tables outside in the sun. So we had a couple of beers, a few cuts of meat and cheese, then a few more and each time they gave us some extra bits as well. It was the best non bar bar I've ever been too!

Ledigos to El Burgo Ranero
Distance: 20.74 miles
Time: 7hrs 48mins
Speed: 2.7 mphЧитать далее
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День 24
среда, 2 октября 2024 г., 20:30
☁️ 18 °C
Высота: 2 621 фт
Испания Mansilla de las Mulas 42.49979, -5.418842°29’59” N 5°25’8” W
A Rather Damp Day
2 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
So after sitting in the late afternoon sun in t-shirt and shorts, eating and drinking at our new favourite non bar, bar, this morning it was raining. Which was good news for Carol as she's got to try out her new rain cape, as her old one was destroyed by the wind on the first day out of Burgos.

Despite the rain and the wind getting up later in the morning, the terrain was pretty flat so we still made good progress. In fact it was probably wanting to get out of the rain that pushed us along to getting finished for about 12:15.

It continued raining all afternoon which meant that apart from a brief, wet walk, we spent the rest of the afternoon in the room and the hostel bar. I don't mind getting soaked while I'm out walking but once I'm showered, dressed and warm, the thought of going back out in the rain doesn't appeal at all.

So just 14 days of walking left now and it's starting to feel like this is going to be over before we know it.

El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas
Distance: 12.33 miles
Time: 4hrs 9mins
Speed: 3 mphЧитать далее
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День 25
четверг, 3 октября 2024 г., 08:16
⛅ 8 °C
Высота: 2 759 фт
Испания Plaza San Marcelo 42.59702, -5.5694242°35’49” N 5°34’10” W
Back in The City
3 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
We set off this morning to a cool, misty but more importantly dry morning. Currently the forecast is for 3 dry days and then almost a week of 50-50 chance of rain each day.

For the last couple of days the path had been along side almost deserted country roads, which I've walked along rather than the stony path. Today is the same, except it was a busy road which turned into a dual carriageway on the outskirts of Leon and the countryside gave way to sporadic light industrial buildings and some retail for a couple of miles. Until we could see Leon in the distance under some very low cloud.

On arriving in Leon we were able access the apartment just after midday. So a couple of washing machine loads later we headed out to explore Leon. Currently there is the San Froilan festival going on, which last 10 days. There was a medieval market with some remarkablely 21st century products on sale.

Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon
Distance: 11.19 miles
Time: 3 hrs 36 mins
Speed: 3.1 milesЧитать далее
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ПутешественникEnjoy Leon and check out the museum as well.
04.10.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникHad a lovely time in Leon, could very easily have spent another couple of days there. I didn't see your message about the museum until it was too late.
07.10.2024ОтветитьПереводить
ПутешественникNo probs. Glad you had a great time
12.10.2024ОтветитьПереводить
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День 26
пятница, 4 октября 2024 г., 23:55
⛅ 13 °C
Высота: 2 759 фт
Испания Plaza San Marcelo 42.59695, -5.5693842°35’49” N 5°34’10” W
A Day Exploring Leon
4 октября 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
The stretch between Burgos and Leon always felt like it would be make or break. In Burgos it was 13 days down and still 20 days to go. Now in Leon it's 20 days down and 13 days to go. Psychologically a huge turnaround, Santiago does actually feel so much closer now.

This morning we went out to explore more of the back streets, squares and buildings around the city. After some tapas and a drink we went back to the apartment to relax and get our stuff together for tomorrow.

Just after 7pm we went back out to watch some traditional dancing, part of the San Froilan festival, then on for a drink and then on for something to eat. In the street on the way to the restaurant, two women called out and came running over two us. It took a few moments to realise, it was the German mother and daughter who we shared our 4 bunk space with on the very first night in Roncesvalles. Was so lovely to see them and have a quick catch up on what they had been up to. We are a day ahead of them as they had arrived today, but it would be really nice to bump into them again in Santiago.

After eating we headed over to the river to catch the last 15 mins of a concert and then to watch a 10 min drone show followed by 15 mins of fireworks to round off the night. It was 00:20 by the time we got back to the apartment. Our latest evening on a school night, very late for early rising pilgrims!Читать далее
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