El Camino de Santiago

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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
Good to be Walking Again
5 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Despite the late night we were up and out just after 07:30 this morning, with the street lights guiding our way until it got light. Could have easily spent another night in Leon, so much to see and do. But instead we set off on the first of the 8 days on the road until we reach Sarria.

We could have left 2hrs earlier as the urban sprawl and light industrial sites of Leon ran into La Virgen del Camino, the next town along the route. It was 6 miles before the street lights and the pavements ran out. From this point the route followed alongside the N120, no longer a redundant main road because of a parallel motorway, but now a busy and noisy main road, despite it being a Saturday and a bank holiday.

Just after 12:00, we arrived at our very uninspiring hostel at the side of the N120, next to a petrol station. Memories of El Burgo Ranero and the motorway services were re-invoked! A short walk into Villadangos turned up two bars, a small shop and the local church. After sampling the delights of the two bars and a visit to the church it was back to our accommodation to rest up and watch Arsenal make hard work of beating Southampton on an internet streaming site which I was told about, so not much rest at all really.

Leon to Villadangos del Paramo
Distance: 12.78
Time: 4hrs 30 mins
Speed: 2.8 mphOkumaya devam et
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
A Little Bit of Climbing
6 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
I suppose this morning was payback for all the times the forecast said there was a 50% chance of rain and yet it never did. We had light rain on and off and a stiff breeze for the first 3 miles, though the rest of the day was dry and far less windy.

It's interesting how having a rest day makes you feel out of sorts when you start back again. I spoke to people yesterday who felt exactly the same way, how their packs felt heavier and they were walking slower. Yet today we felt like we were back in the grove. I suppose the answer is simple.....

The 2nd half of today's route included 4 short climbs, not too steep and each one about a kilometre long. Which made a change from the predominantly flatter terrain we've had this last week or so. The Camino's way of introducing us gently to the serious climbing a few days ahead in Galicia and on to the highest point of the whole walk, at just over 1,500m.

We arrived at 13:30, showered, changed and out to do some sight seeing in this city dating back to pre Roman times. Unfortunately, it started raining almost straight away so we had to take shelter in an Irish bar with the Aston Villa v Man Utd game on. The first time I've seen English football on in a bar on the whole trip.

The rain eventually stopped, allowing us to do a bit of exploring. This is the sort of place we could have easily spent another day in, but tomorrow is another day and another walk.

Villadangos del Paramo to Astorga
Distance: 18.12 miles
Time: 5hrs 55 mins
Speed: 3.1 mphOkumaya devam et
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
Getting Higher and Higher
7–9 Eki 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
This misty but windless morning we left the busy roads behind and set out for the hills. Although, we did follow a road for about half the day, it was far quieter. For periods the only sound was our feet on the ground and of our heavier breathing as the path turned upwards.

The villages we travelled through today didn't look much changed from medieval times. The only exception being some bars and rest stops colourfully done out to attract passing pilgrims, like brightly coloured flowers trying to entice passing bees. The people living in the villages, the Maragato are said to date back to the 7th century. There are around 4,000 of them left still living in this area spread over around 25 villages.

We arrived just before midday feeling like we'd only done a half day and should really be carrying on. However, once we'd showered had a wander round the village and were tucking into lunch those feelings soon disappeared.

Today, we are now at around 1,140m, with a high of 15 degrees and a cold wind. It rained while we had lunch but the sun came out afterwards and we found a little bar with a suntrap terrace, playing laid back music. It was so lovely but we only had 30 mins before they closed for siesta. Though somehow that made you focus all the more on enjoying having a beer in your hand and the sun on your face, albeit whilst still wearing 4 layers.

Rabanal, along with it's resident population of 50 people, has a order of Benedictine missionary monks, originally from Bavaria, who have restored and reopened a church in the village square. They undertake vespers at 7pm, which is almost all in the form of Gregorian chanting. The small church was standing room only by the time it started. The introduction was in English and the same reading was performed in 4 languages. The rest was in Latin, but despite not understanding anything, there was something special in the sound and the rhythm and the ritual and in sharing it with a large group of people.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino
Distance: 12.31 miles
Time: 4hrs 5 mins
Speed: 3.0 mphOkumaya devam et
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GezginRabanal was one of my fav places.
13.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
GezginI can understand that, there was something quite special about that place.
13.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
A Very Long Decent
8 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Straight out of the hostel this morning we were into a 350m climb up to the Cruz de Ferro (the iron cross) which is almost the highest point on the Camino. We set off at 07:15, so by the time it got light we were already halfway there.

Apparently people bring stones from home with them to lay at the Cruz de Ferro. Whether to remember someone or something or to leave something from their lives behind to allow them move on. I'd not heard of this until the day before we started, just as well as my bag was more than heavy enough already.

Five miles later we reached the highest point of the Camino at 1,515m. The only issue now was that Molinaseca is at 610m, meaning a 905m decent. Descending is always tougher on feet, ankles, knees than climbing is, particularly on loose stones and small rocks or jagged slabs of rock. This decent had plenty of both. Which made for a slow and tiring last 7 miles. It was a great relief when Molinaseca finally came into view, even though there was still a couple of km of descending to go.

All this made for a quiet afternoon and evening. A couple of beers, a meal and an early night, ready for the longest remaining walk tomorrow.

Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca
Distance: 15.85 miles
Time: 6hrs 56 mins
Speed: 2.3 mphOkumaya devam et
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GezginI too only learned of the tradition at St Jean. My host at the hostel gave all the guests a stone/ should I say a pebble for this purpose.
17.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
The Last of the Long Walks
9 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Then all of a sudden it was 9 days left. Single figures seemed a distant thing for so long but now here we are. I really need to make even more effort to take in every day now as it feels as though we will be in Santiago in no time at all.

The temperature at 07:00 was 18 degrees compared to yesterday's 7 degrees, however the forecast was for guaranteed rain for most of the day. And the forecast didn't disappoint, it rained solidly until around midday then we had 3 or 4 minute breaks and then it would start again. A couple of places were impassable, particularly under a bridge, but having looked, there was no way round so just had to walk through it. Then had to take my shoes off to pour the water out and ring out my insoles and socks. Once the remaining water warmed up my feet felt quite cosy.

Fortunately today was relatively flat but we still didn't get into the hotel until 14:45. After yesterday's exploits and a 20 mile walk today we were both feeling quite tired. We'd also got in too late for lunch, most places close at 15:30, so had to wait until 18:30 when the odd restaurant reopened. A lot of restaurants in less touristy areas of Spain don't even open until around 20:30 for dinner. I was hoping to be in bed for that time.

One observation we've made is that on the days when the weather is terrible you seem to see far fewer people walking. Some people do take transport over several stages. Whether that's for injury or illness, time constraints or just wanting to only walk through the more interesting areas. So a good day to do that would definitely be on days like today.

Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo
Distance: 20.29 miles
Time: 7hrs 25 mins
Speed: 2.7 mphOkumaya devam et
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
A Steep Old Climb
10 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
I slept really well last night, a combination of a very nice bed in the parador we stayed in and the exertions of the last couple of days meant a very sound night's sleep.

Today's walk was a slight incline for 13 miles and then a 3.5 mile steep climb, up 450m. The initial 13 miles was quite straight forward but then came the climb. The first half averaged around 20% for one kilometre, our average speed dropped from 3mph to well below 2mph but were just glad to get through it. The 2nd half eased to around 10%, though we were more than happy to finally reach our accommodation.

Laguna, at 1,150m, has a resident population of 20 people, the only business is the hostel where we stayed. Restaurant, bar and accommodation, they have everything sown up. Though at €3,30 for a large beer, and €14 for a 3 course meal with half a bottle of wine, they weren't trying to fleece the punters.

Around 7pm we went to the bar for quick drink only to meet an Irish guy and a Canadian who I'd chatted to as we left Villafranca this morning. Then Matt joined us, a guy we'd met on our second day, and before you knew it they were mopping the floors and chucking us out at 21:30. A late night by pilgrim standards!

Villafranca to Laguna de Castilla
Distance: 16.64 miles
Time: 6hrs 5mins
Speed: 2.7 mphOkumaya devam et
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
A Day of Ups and Downs
11 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Carol didn't feel at all well this morning so I set off on my own to get today's walk out of the way as quickly as possible so I could spend more time with her at today's destination.

For the first mile this morning the trail was earth and random stones but then suddenly it turned to a well made, level, small gravel path and continued to be so for the rest of the day. Was only later it dawned on me that this started as I crossed into Galicia. Fingers crossed this continues to be the case all the way to Santiago.

The terrain in the guide book beyond O'Cibriero showed a gentle rise and fall for 6 miles but it was anything but. The road seemed to do that but the path dug into the hillsides did anything but, it was literally up and down for that whole distance. Yesterday's big final climb was 450m but today I did 486m of climbing (along with 977m of decending) that wasn't even supposed to be there.

The forecast had been for rain this morning but the mountains seemed to have a different idea, thankfully. It didn't start raining until a couple of hours after I got in and was having lunch. Though it was raining so hard when we finish and were about to leave that we had to stop and have a beer.

Today's accommodation had a large communal room on the ground floor, with drinks fridge and honest box and a pellet woodburner in the corner. So rather than going back out we spent the late afternoon and evening in there by the fire, with a couple of drinks and for a while chatting to an Irish couple who had lived in the States for the last 35 years. He was a retired Anglican vicar with some interesting stories about running a parish in Belfast during the troubles. Not the sort of person I'd normally bump into in Leytonstone.

Laguna de Castilla to Triacastela
Distance: 14.56 miles
Time: 4hrs 3 mins
Speed: 3.6 mphOkumaya devam et
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GezginYou seem to be having more rain than us at home, which is something 😀 great effort and surely the finish must seem in sight
13.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
GezginYes and a final week of showery days forecast. The end seems frighteningly close, we've really got into a routine of early starts, walking, couple of shandies, big lunch, meeting lots of people, and not thinking about much at all beyond the weather, the walk, where we are staying and doing it all again tomorrow.
13.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
Green and Hilly
12 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
The forecast reversed itself again today, it was supposed to be dry but we had on and off light showers for the first 7 miles. Though somehow it didn't seem to matter as we walked through verdant rolling countryside, some quite steeply rolling, all morning. We'd even got partly accustomed to the very pungent farmyard aromas.

We'd been told by numerous people who had done it before that beyond Sarria it was going to get very busy. As the minimum distance you have to do is a 100km to get your Compostela (pilgrimage certificate). So maybe it was that and the beautiful countryside and the shorter distance and how so quiet it was at times that I found myself more than ever trying to take it all in and savour every moment.

We were able to get into our room as soon as we arrived and I was showered and on the balcony, over looking an attractive, but rather noisy weir on the river Sarria by 12:30.

We then headed out for lunch and bumped into 6 people we had met over the course of the trip, it can sometimes be a very small world on the Camino. We had lunch with 4 of them and were later joined by a fifth and carried on with a couple of drinks. As we left I wondered what we were going to do for the rest of the afternoon only to realise it was now 18:00, I still can't understand how the time flew by like that.

Triacastela to Sarria
Distance: 11.05 miles
Time: 4hrs 9 mins
Speed: 2.7 milesOkumaya devam et
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
The Final Rest Day
13 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Our final day off before Santiago. This is the first of the 4 days rest days were I've I actually thought that I'd have preferred to continue walking today. Especially as I was fully awake before 7am. Though all the accommodation was book before we left so I'm forced to put my feet up, eat and drink and long for being back on the road!

Sarria's claim to fame is being the most popular starting point of all the Camino routes, with about a third of all people starting here. Given it's only about 71 miles to Santiago I can understand why.

We headed out around 11 am to have a look around the rest of the old town that we didn't get to see yesterday. Went to the pilgrim's blessing at 12pm at the Santa Marina church, then on for some lunch.

There we got chatting to a guy who I'd heard of 5 days ago. He was walking down a steep section of smooth rock when he slipped and banged his head, blood everywhere and he was helicoptered out to hospital. He was only kept in overnight so nothing too serious and is back walking but picking and choosing which days he does. He is hoping to walk all the way to Santiago now, but will see how it goes.Okumaya devam et
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
A Large Influx
14 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
This is the final push, the last 5 days, that have come round remarkably quickly. Seems hard to believe we started over a month ago. The routine has become a way of life I can see how some people just carry on with it.

During our time in Sarria the town didn't really seem as busy as I was expecting. However, leaving today was a different story. We set off around 7:30 and although still dark a lot of people had the same idea. There were many more groups of people today and over the first couple of miles it did feel like a procession of head torches, rather like the photos you see of people queuing to make the final ascent of Everest. However, by 4 or 5 miles things had thinned out and it started to feel more like the previous days.

We witnessed what might be our last beautiful, misty sunrise this morning as the forecast is for rain for the rest of the week, so we really made sure we took it all in.

Today's finish town Portomarin was moved to it's current location in the 1960s to make way for a reservoir, including it's 12th century church which doubled as a castle with 4 watch towers. The town was very busy this evening, as I'm sure it is every evening for around 7 to 8 months of the year.

Sarria to Portomarin
Distance: 14.43
Time: 5hrs 22 mins
Speed: 2.7 mphOkumaya devam et
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GezginThe structure you will have seen is called an Hórreo
17.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
Dodged the Rain
15 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
It's only taken four weeks but I've finally stopped looking at my watch, thinking about the pace we are doing, how far we have gone, how far there is to go, what time we are going to get in. Well almost! Santiago has always felt so far away and I've needed smaller challenges to actually focus on. Now it's less than 50 miles away which ordinarily would feel like a very long way away but after the last month that feels like it's around the corner.

There is definitely more of a buzz since Sarria, there are so many more people on the road including groups of school kids. The towns in the evening are also really busy, not quite a party atmosphere but so much more lively.

With it being a 5 day walk you do see some people who are less prepared, like walking in the dark using their phones to light the way or just walking behind people with head torches until it's light enough to see where they are going.

There are organised tours that drive people part of the way each day to let them walk a shorter distance. It's really good that there is something for everyone who wants to experience an element of the Camino even if the feel they can't walk too much of it.

Today was one of those lucky days where we got in just before the rain came down. That's two good days on the trot so definitely expecting a soaking tomorrow.

Portomarin to Palas de Rei
Distance: 15.61 miles
Time: 5 hrs 24 mins
Speed: 2.9mphOkumaya devam et
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
Ahead of the Crowd
16 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
It was raining as we set out this morning, which did have one benefit. It seems that the new recruits weren't too keen on walking in the rain and the dark which meant no procession this morning, we were ahead of the crowd, which did feel nice.

The signage has been really good on the whole route but is at a different level since we entered Galicia. There are concrete directional and distance markers, down to the last metre, at every turn. Every path and trail has had money spent on it. With a large influx of people starting in Sarria and now with other routes joining this route or going straight into Santiago they have invested a good sum of the revenue that that brings in on maintaining the route. The one thing it doesn't have much of that the rest of the route did are the murals.

We walked a good few miles towards the end of the today's walk with an American couple we keep bumping into. We must have been the first people to check in today as we were offered the choice of rooms, so took the one double bed the place had. The vast majority of beds have been singles, the only problem we later found with the double was it had one long pillow we had to share. I'm thinking there's going to be a lot of both of us pulling backwards and forwards on this all night.. Perhaps we'll stick to single beds in hostels in the future.

Palas de Rei to Ribadiso
Distance: 16.58
Time: 6 hrs 4mins
Speed: 2.9 mphOkumaya devam et
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
The Penultimate Day of Walking
17 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
The last 26 miles to go and two days to do them. I did suggest having just one long walk and banging it all out today, but Carol wasn't having any of it. I thought it would have been really nice to have walked into Santiago late this afternoon pretty much on our own and really have the chance to take it all in. Rather than stuck in the middle of a noisy procession tomorrow.

We had set off at 07:20 to try and cover the two miles to Arzua, a proper town, and get through there before most people got on the road, which we managed to do. However, we didn't take into account the people who get transported for parts of the route and walk certain sections, as about 3hrs in it felt crowded all of a sudden. It turned out to be the kids we had seen on the trail a couple of days ago. Apparently there are about 70 thirteen/fourteen year olds from Madrid. They were still firmly tucked up in bed when we left this morning, as they stayed in the same hostel as we did last night and were still banging about upstairs at gone midnight.

Another lucky day with the weather, we somehow managed to avoid the rain and got in before a short but heavy shower in the afternoon.

Today's finish town was little more than a collection of various accommodations and cafes, restaurants and bars, to accommodate people from 3 different Camino routes, Frances, Primativo and Norte. So we had a relaxing afternoon and evening in preparation for a very early start tomorrow.

Ribadiso to OPedrouzo
Distance: 13:48 miles
Time: 4hrs 48mins
Speed: 2.9 mphOkumaya devam et
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GezginLeave early to get into Santiago early as it means less crowds in your picturs. If you intend to go to the midday pilgrim mass... get your stamp and head to the cathedral and bag yourself a good seat. As it gets v busy and either you are refused entry depending on numbers already in, you are seated away from seeing anything or standing.
17.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
GezginPS fingers x someone pays so you get to enjoy the icing on the cake at Santiago. I will also suggest returning early morning the next day or the evening when the crowds have departed to enjoy the serenity and beauty of the Cathedral. There is a pilgrim office which runs reflections post the pilgrimage. Are you walking to Muxia and Finesterra?
17.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
GezginThanks for the advice, we left very early which was great getting there without too many people on the road. We got in an hour early for the mass and even then only just managed to get a seat somewhere near the front.
19.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
The Last Walk
18 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
The compromise for not walking straight to Santiago yesterday was that we would leave early, very early today. So we were out of the accommodation at around 05:45, expecting a peaceful final walk.

No sooner had we started walking when behind us in the distance we could hear a lot of loud, excited chatter, which got closer and closer over the first mile or so to the point where we just stopped to let them by. The group was around 35 teenagers, with the rear guard playing music through a speaker. Sounded like they were going to a Taylor Swift concert rather than Santiago.

However, the rest of the walk, mainly in the dark, as sunrise today was 08:51, was peaceful and what we expected it to be. By this time it was raining lightly, which didn't really matter and in some ways fittingly came full circle, as it rained for 5.5hrs on our first day.

Walking into the cathedral square at 10:10 was very satisfying but before we could really take it all in and get any sense of what our emotions were we started bumping into person after person that we'd got to know along the way, who themselves had got in the day before. Which was really lovely, but in some ways that moment of arrival was lost.

So then after dropping off the bags we went to the cathedral for the midday mass, which was standing room only by the start. Then onto collect our Compostela, certificate of completing the pilgrimage and via bumping into numerous other people went on for lunch.

Our fate was sealed when at about 4pm we bumped into the two Aussie women we had dinner with in Roncesvalles, on the night of our first walk. They were sat at a bar with a father and son who had travelled with them most of the way. After a few beers two more couples joined us and after a few more beers we went for a meal and after probably at least one beer too many we wobbled our way back to the hotel.

O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
Distance: 12.21 miles
Time: 4hrs 15mins
Speed: 2.8 mphOkumaya devam et
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GezginWhat a beautiful way to end the trip. Seeing familiar faces. This is also the start of your Camino Family! Friends you would have for life. Where is your next Camino?
19.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
GezginYes, was great to bump into so many people at the end like that and having our first meal and last meal on the Camino with the same people was very cool. I certainly hope to see some of them again as you do get to know people so well so quickly. Well, we definitely want to do the walk to Finesterra, and maybe squeeze in some of the Portuguese one beforehand. But let's see.
21.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
A Day in Santiago
19 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
First thing to do this morning was to have our final weigh in at a nearby chemist. Seems a thing here that they have weighing scales at most pharmacies, that provide you a printout with weight, height and BMI, all for 20 cents. So in the last 2 weeks I've lost another 4.4lbs and Carol has lost another 6.5lbs. They should add the Camino as a weight loss treatment on the NHS.

Then it was off to have a good look around Santiago, despite it raining more on than off. We visited the crypt in the cathedral to see the casket which is said to contain the bones of Saint James.

From there we went to the indoor market, made up of several halls each containing fish or meat and with fruit and veg on the outside. One of the halls was dedicated to a number of cafes specialising in seafood. So lunch comprised of grilled sardines, steamed mussels and a beer. Which tasted fine despite yesterday's excesses.

The afternoon was spent looking around jewellery shops for a gift for Carol's birthday tomorrow. She bought what she wanted and my job is to wrap it for tomorrow!

We then had a quiet evening, a couple of drinks in a trendy bar, a meal and an earlyish night. Just what was needed after yesterday.Okumaya devam et
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GezginCongratulations on completing the Camino - that’s quite an achievement!!
20.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
GezginCheers Mike, it certainly felt like it. Have to think about next year now!
20.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
GezginWel done to you both, another achievement 😄
21.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
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El Camino de Santiago Gezgin
The Last Day
20 Ekim 2024, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
This is the final day of our trip, 42 days since we set off for Biarritz and today was the first day I struggled to get out of bed. Two days off on the trot is already making me lazy.

My one regret as the trip went on was not including the walk from Santiago on to Finesterra (literally, lands end), on the Atlantic coast. 4 days walk away. Though that has been tempered a little by the fact it has and will be raining for what would have been those additional days.

So instead today, on Carol's birthday, we've taken a coach trip out to Finesterra and the surrounding areas. The first time I've been anywhere other than on my own two feet for the last 39 days. At Finesterra we bumped into the Irish couple we'd spent the evening with in Triacastela, doing the same thing but on a different tour. The highlight of the day was Muxia, which had a church dedicated to sailors, a lighthouse and large man made standing stones, all with the backdrop of heavy white water as the sea crashed onto the rocks.

We got back into Santiago around 17:40, just in time to catch the Liverpool v Chelsea game and were joined by Matt, the guy we met on the second day who was really struggling with blisters. So we all had a couple of birthday drinks and Carol and I went on for a meal. Then via a bit of a boogie in the cathedral square we had a final nightcap and then back to the hotel.

So we walked for 33 days with 4 rest days and covered 484 miles, took a handful of wrong turns but never by more than a 100 yards. Across the route, but particularly in Galicia the signage was fantastic.Okumaya devam et
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GezginWell done! Welcome to the Camino Community! There impressive many routes which you can take to cover Muxia and Finesterre. I know you both love adventures so check Camino Los Faros!
21.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
GezginThanks Roxanne, I really enjoyed it, will definitely be doing some more. I checked out the Camino Los Faros, that definitely looked like a real challenge!
23.10.2024YanıtlaÇevirmek
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Gezinin sonu
18 Ekim 2024