Surabaya, Indonesia - WELCOME & Archaeology-1 of 2

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Today we were in Surabaya, Indonesia, the largest city of the East Java province and the 2nd largest city in Indonesia, after Jakarta. Located on the northeastern corner of Java island, on the Madura Strait, it is one of the earliest port cities in Southeast Asia, with principal exports of sugar, tobacco, and coffee. The earliest historical record of Surabaya was in the 1225 and by the 14th and 15th centuries, Surabaya was a major ports. The Dutch pushed out Portugal around 1600, and occupied Indonesia until 1942. The Dutch East India Company took over the city in 1743 and was the largest city in the Dutch East Indies through the 19th Century, becoming a major trading center and also was the center of Java's plantation economy. In 1926, Surabaya was designated the capital of the province of East Java. Japan occupied the city in 1942, until the surrender of Japan at the end of World War II, when it was seized by Indonesian nationalists coming in conflict with the Dutch who took over after the war resulting in Indonesia’s independence, and Surabaya gaining the nickname “City of Heroes”.

Surabaya grew from a relative poor city in the late 19th century into a metropolis in the late 20th century (130 sq miles) with its metropolitan area covering 2,436 sq miles and a population of over 10 million. There are about 40 higher education institutions here too. Around 85% of citizens in Surabaya are Sunni Islam with most of the rest Catholics. The Hindu influence is strong in their culture, but only a minority of the population adheres to Hinduism. A small community of Dutch Jews and Iraqi Jews It was once home to the largest and most vibrant Jewish community in Southeast Asia in the early 20th century but mostly dissolved after World War II, with the city's only synagogue demolished in 2013. After a beautifully warm welcome with music and dancing, we went on an archeological tour.

We drove about 2 hours to get to the Trowulan Archeological Site a 40 square mile site, which was the capital of the majestic 13th-15th century Majapahit Empire, it is the only classical-era city site in the country that remains largely intact.

Among the sites we went to, we spent time at the Museum (see second posting) which houses a collection of artifacts from the Majapahit era, including sculptures, ceramics, and jewelry.

We went to the “Candi Wringin Lawang Temple”. This is the largest temple in Trowulan and is believed to have been the main gate to the Majapahit capital. One of the relics of the Majapahit Kingdom is the gate Wringin Lawang temple. Archaeologists said that the gate Wringin Lawang is a gateway to the Majapahit Kingdom and palace. The gate is commonly called "Candi Bentar" (the temple was torn in two ). Wringin Lawang is derived from the word " Wringin " meaning banyan because near the temple there is a banyan tree and "Lawang" which means gate or door. This area was used as a cemetery for years and now these graves have been relocated so the area can be preserved. The temple was split in two and has been rebuilt exactly the same shape are built using materials of red brick. The temple was restored in the 1990's using bricks and coupled with the lightning rod.

Candi Tikus Temple - this temple is named after the many rat statues found inside. It is believed to have been a place of worship for Durga, the Hindu goddess of destruction. It is a 13th-century Hindu ritual bathing complex built during the Majapahit Empire. The sunken red-brick site is famous for its intricate architecture resembling Mount Mahameru. The "tikus" name came as when it was found back during 1915, it was said the temple was filled by rats.

Candi Gapura Bajangratu - this temple is dedicated to Parwati, the consort of the Hindu god Shiva. It is known for its intricate carvings and beautiful architecture.

Gapura Bajang Ratu is one of the defining monuments of the Majapahit period (1293-1527). It comprises an unusually well-preserved paduraksa-style gate, complete with remnants of flanking walls that give some idea of how the original enclosure would have looked. It is built almost entirely of brick, apart from andesite (lava stone) lintels that were necessary to span the width of the central opening. Despite 800 years of exposure to the elements, including frequent earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, its fine detail (such as the four kala faces at the cornices) remains in excellent condition. It has remained intact because local residents and Dutch colonists were afraid to repurpose bricks from the gate for use in new construction due to an ancient curse here.

The monument's precise age is uncertain, but is estimated at around 1369 CE. Its flanks are engraved with heavily weather-worn reliefs from the tale of Sri Tanjung, specifically the scene with Sri Tanjung atop a fish, implying that the gate was built to memorialize King Jayanagara, the powerful second monarch, who ruled from 1309-1328.

Candi Brahu dan Gentong - this temple is dedicated to Brahma, the Hindu god of creation. It is known for its unique stepped pyramid design. It is one of the most prominent surviving structures in the Trowulan area. It is a massive, rectangular Buddhist temple built entirely out of red clay bricks. Archaeologists estimate it dates back to the 15th century, though some artifacts suggest it may be even older. Its name is derived from the Sanskrit word Varu, meaning "sacred building." Many historians believe that Brahu Temple served as a royal crematorium or tomb for Majapahit kings and nobles and it looks like a large crematorium.

Candi Gentong is another Buddhist ruin we went to. This one is mostly excavated brick ruins believed to be part of a larger, now-ruined Buddhist religious complex. The name Gentong translates to "water jar" in Javanese, which local legend claims refers to large clay jars used by monks or royalties at the site.

Dilarang Meninjak Struktur Bata Kuno is a reservoir that we visited that was an ancient source of water in the area and now used for fishing and visiting.Read more