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The French Ride
  • Bruce Dimon
  • Bruce Dimon

The French Ride

After a few days in Paris to shake off the jet lag, I'll rent a motorcycle for 15 days and ride through the Alps down to the Riviera and back. Lue lisää
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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    St. Gervais-les-Bains from my balcony
    St. Gervais-les-Bains from my windowHôtel Cœur des NeigesFortified house - when you cannot afford a real castleAlpine Vista

    Hôtel Cœur des Neiges

    3. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ 🌩️ 72 °F

    I followed the GPS directly to this beautiful hotel. The room is as pretty as the inside and the views from the windows and balcony are nice.

    I walked around the town of St. Gervais-les-Bains, checking out the restaurants. I also toured a fortified house which is a mini fort that the rich guy built to protect himself from the Swiss or Italians, don't know which.

    When the rain started two hours before dinner time, I headed back to the hotel for a Negroni (gin, Compari, & Vermouth). Delicious if you like bitter flavors as I do.

    The rain stopped just as the church bell tolled seven times to announce dinner time. I enjoyed a Tartiflette with salad. It's kind of like potatoes au gratin but with real, creamy cheese and pork belly. For dessert, I had fromage blanc which is similar to yogurt (more cheese flavor) and of course, an espresso.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    A wet start

    Day 2 Begins

    4. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Today's mountain passes:
    Col des Montets
    Col de la Forclaz (Swiss)
    Col de Champex
    Col du Grand St. Bernard

    It stormed last night and they say today will be rainy. I'm not going to worry about it. Right now, the roads are mostly wet and the rain might not start for another 20 minutes or so. That's good enough.

    About an hour into the ride, the display turned red to warn me that the rear tire was losing air and was dangerously low on pressure. I stopped, removed my Aerostich motorcycle suit, and put on the orange vest. French law requires a driver to wear an orange or yellow vest when broken down on the side of the road. I examined that tire closely but could not find an object in the tire. Finally, I decided to ride slowly to the gas station that was a kilometer away.
    Well, that crazy computer now told me that the tire was fine. It was a momentary glitch. Only 30 minutes wasted, no sweat.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Col de la Forclaz
    This would look better without the construction equipmentVallée du RhôneMy club sticker is in the lower right corner. I couldn't reach any higher.

    Col de la Forclaz (the Swiss one)

    4. syyskuuta 2024, Sveitsi ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    I rode into Switzerland. Even though there were border control agents, they did not look at me. I stopped at the sign, glanced at them to see if they cared about me (no), and rode into their country. I noticed some heavy metal doors leading into the mountains next to the road. I've heard stories that they are well prepared to repel invaders; I guess it's true.

    There is a Col de la Forclaz in Switzerland. Yesterday, I went over a pass with the same name in France. Who copied whom?

    On the other side of the pass, there is a pull-off to look down at the Vallée de Rhône. The sign was plastered with stickers. I added mine; look closely.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Ascending to the Col du Grand St. Bernard
    The Col du Grand St. Bernard is up there somewhere.On top of the AlpsTorte and cappuccinoThis St. Bernard was quiet and did not bark or leave droppingsThe patron saint. The dogs are named after him, not vice versa.As long as there's no rain, I won't complain about the clouds.

    Col du Grand St-Bernard

    4. syyskuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    I should call it Colle del Gran San Bernardo since I crossed from Switzerland into Italy. Because of construction on the Swiss side, I had to bypass the good Swiss road with a toll tunnel and then backtrack on the Italian roads, making it a round trip on the Italian side. The tunnel had a long backup to pay the toll. I went on vacation to get away from traffic like that.

    It worked out for the best because the Italian side had an amazing road to the pass. I took long break here in spite of the threatening skies. Not a drop fell on me until after I checked into the hotel.

    The Colle del Gran San Bernardo is in Italy so it's time for a cappuccino. I asked if 1:00 pm was too late for a cappuccino and the barista said no. I wonder if that really meant, "not too late for Americans who drink them all day long." Italians believe that drinking milk late in the day is bad for digestion.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    I was not supposed to ride down this street but I did not notice the sign
    Town HallNothing is better than gelatoPraetorian gate of the ancient Roman wallWhen signs says 2-way traffic and the other sign says no cars allowedA real Roman bridgeRoman legionnaires marched across this bridge and so did I

    Aosta, Italy

    4. syyskuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Remember the weather forecast at the start of the day? In spite of forecasting rain almost every hour of the day, I didn't have a single drop. I am so lucky!

    Aosta is my only stop in Italy on this trip. It's a fascinating city that was founded by, who else, the Romans. I deviated from the preprogrammed GPS route to find a Post office. The first two were closed. The first one was closed for a union meeting the second one was simply not open on Wednesday afternoons. After getting my stamp at the third post office, I set the GPS to go directly to the hotel, that was a mistake.

    The GPS database does not adequately know which streets are closed for pedestrian traffic. I followed it blindly down an alley which got narrower and narrower and finally emptied out into a street filled with pedestrians and shops. I got some dirty looks and I knew I was in the wrong place. I guess I didn't notice the little sign, a red circle with a white interior, that indicated the street was not for vehicles. It's possible I might get a ticket in the mail.

    After checking into a very nice hotel, I walked out in the street to learn a little something about Aosta. There is a well-preserved Roman bridge and section of the city walls with the Praetorian portals. I walked over the bridge and imagined legionnaires matching where I walked. After buying a gelato, I walked around for a couple hours before going to dinner.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Down the street and off the tourist path.
    A beautifully restored Moto Guzzi in the entrancewayCannelloni alla ValdostanaBeef alla ValdostanaPanne cotta - this is how it should taste.Yes, that is a Lambreta behind the barAnother Lambreta for decoration

    Osteria Il Vicolo

    4. syyskuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Rick Steves says to go a little off the tourist street to get an authentic meal. I was lucky to find the Osteria Il Vicolo. It is down a side street and only one employee speaks English. Thanks to translation apps, no problem. Plus you gotta love a restaurant with an antique Moto Guzzi in the foyer and scooters decorating the dining room.

    My primo plat was cannelloni alla Valdostana. Pasta tubes with a mixture of local cheese served in a casserole.
    My secundi was beef alla Valdostana. I'm eating locally tonight. Beef is sliced thinly and covered with a slice of ham and cheese and then grilled. It's served with polenta, which I love because it's like grits and I love grits. I had to have dessert and ordered a panne cota. Now I know how it is supposed to taste like. Not just smooth and a little sweet (just a little so the fruit confiture can add its sugars) but solid, like a flan. Everything I've eaten at Italian restaurants in the States is put to shame.
    I topped it off with a digestif, Gin Genesi an aromatic gin from Sardinia.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    A rainy morning

    Day 3 Begins

    5. syyskuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    Today's mountain passes:
    Col du Petit St. Bernard
    Col de l'Iseran
    Col de la Madeleine

    The sound of a plastic garbage bin rolling across the pavement woke me up. Somebody kept rolling that thing back and forth across the courtyard. It was beginning to bother me when I realized it was not the rumble of plastic wheels on rough pavement; it was thunder. I opened the weather app and saw the map covered with green, accented with yellow and red. Well it's not going to change for me so let's go.Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    The river is the Torrente Dora di Verney
    La Thuile, Aosta Valley, ItalyThe sign says free motorcycle parkingNobody makes espresso as well as the Italians

    La Thuile

    5. syyskuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ 🌫 55 °F

    La Thuile is a resort town near the Col de Petit Saint Bernard (Little Saint Bernard Pass). I saw the sign for free motorcycle parking and decided to give them my business. I bought a post card and an espresso. I could not resist walking around a bit.

    Although it's been raining since I left the hotel, my rain gear is keeping me mostly dry. The leaks will not start for another two hours.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Creamy squash soup and raspberry tart

    Val d'Isère

    5. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ 🌫 50 °F

    The route had me go through Val d'Isère on the way to Col de l'Iseran, one of the most famous high Alpine passes. As I approached Val d'Isère, an electronic sign said the pass was closed. I stopped for lunch to check the website. A landslide closed the pass. I hope nobody was hurt and I'm glad that I was not there to be involved in it. I stopped for lunch and to recalculate.

    Lunch was a creamy squash soup and raspberry tart. For a place that looked like a tourist trap, it was delicious. It was served with mozzarella to sprinkle in the soup. I swear that French raspberries are bigger and more flavorful than American berries. Maybe it's just their skill in preparation.

    The planned route was 92 miles but I rode a total of 164 miles because there is no detour possible from Val d'Isère to my hotel in Val Cenis. I had to backtrack and go far to the west and approach Val Cenis from the west instead of the east. It would be like going from Connecticut to New York City via Albany, NY.

    At least the rain stopped in Val d'Isère and I peeled off the rain gear. In exchange, I was on roads with trucks.

    My detour passed through the Col de la Madeleine. It was a vertigo-inducing ride.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Approaching the Col de la Madeleine
    Climbing towards the Col de la MadeleineAt the Col de la MadeleineThere was room for one more sticker.I met this group of friends out for a ride. Gave them a club sticker.

    Col de la Madeleine

    5. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    I wish I was not afraid of heights; I could have enjoyed this ride a lot more. The scenery was astounding. Thankfully, I turned on my 360° camera several times. I can go back and look at the scenery that I was too afraid to look at while riding. The pictures you see here are when I pulled off and walked over to take the photo. It's so beautiful in this part of France. Well, all of France is beautiful.

    I met a group of friends at the top of the pass. Well, I should say they passed me on the way to the top. One of them was kind enough to take my picture and I rewarded him with one of my club stickers    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Creamy potato soup with egg
    Show-cooked pork with glazed carrots and creamed squashThe shutters are brilliant. I wish I had them on my house

    Hôtel la Turra

    5. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Hôtel la Turra is not just a hotel, but a recognized master chef restaurant. Oh the flavors! I had the creamy potato soup with an egg for the entree. For the main dish, I had the slow-cooked pork with creamed squash and glazed carrots.

    I drank a wonderful Cote du Rhône and finished with cheese. They served me Tomme and Beaufort. Wow! This is why the French are the masters of cuisine.

    I admit to being really tired. 164 miles of riding in the Alps is exhausting. Time to go to sleep early.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Above the town is Lanslebourg-mont-cenis
    Above the town is Lanslebourg-mont-cenis

    Another Day, Another Closed Pass

    6. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    The day dawned clear with only enough clouds to make the scenery interesting. However, the same rain that closed the Col de l'Iseran with a landslide also closed the Col du Mont-Cenis. Thankfully, the closure was after the prettiest scenery. The French Ride called and told me to go as far as the road was open then turn around.

    They worked on a detour while I enjoyed the amazing scenery. Good thing I have the 360° video camera because the drop-off required me to keep my eyes on the road. I'll look at the landscape at home. The pictures are of the route to the pass above the town of Lanslebourg-mont-cenis.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    The road closure was just beyond that curve.
    Panoramic view still cannot convey how beautiful this is. The lake is artificial.The duties of a club ambassador

    Col du Mont-Cenis

    6. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    This lake and mountains are a three-star destination by themselves. If the landslide had not closed it, the road would continue into Italy. This is where I turned around and backtracked over roads from this morning and yesterday afternoon. The French Ride sent me a new route with an option to continue into Italy if I feel like making it a long day.Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Col du Télégraphe
    Col du Télégraphe

    Col du Télégraphe

    6. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Col du Télégraphe was named after the Napoleonic telegraph station in the 19th century. It was not electric but used giant semaphore flags. An operator would pull levers to raise the flags that represented words or letters. Another operator would repeat the message he saw. A message could get from the southern Coast to Paris in less than a half hour. Think how amazing that would be before the electric telegraph was invented. How would you like the job to stare at this view waiting for the signals from the other mountaintops.Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    That's 8667 feet above sea level.
    Looking into the départment de la SavoieLooking into the department of the High Alps. That means I've only seen the low Alps so far. 😲Looking into the department of the High Alps.

    Col du Galibier

    6. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Now the mountains are getting really high. I'm crossing from the department of the Savoie to the department of the Hautes-Alpes (High Alps). Most Americans think of Italy or Austria or Switzerland when they think about the highest Alps. France has the tallest mountains, including the granddaddy of them all, Mont Blanc.

    My fear of heights was really kicking in. It was hard for me to get to the edge of the roadway when opposing traffic was coming downhill. Of course, I didn't have to be on the edge of the roadway like the bicyclists. Road shoulders? They don't have those here.

    There were three different photography companies set up at various corners, taking pictures of the bikes and cool cars. The problem is, I was too scared to lean over very far. I wonder if Photoshop has a solution for that. Also, it's a little hard to lean into the inside of a corner when a photographer's head and camera are about a foot from your bike as you pass.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Look at all the space
    I swear I saw Julie Andrews twirling around in the meadowA nice big public roomThere are various games on the upper levelAs much as I like camping, there may be something to this hotel experience.The hotel put a couple of signs low for stickersThis is Raclette. The brown cylinder melts the cheese.When it's just gooey enough, you pull away the heating cylinder and scrape off some melted goodness.I had a Tartiflette, potato casserole with onions and Chon Chon cheese

    Lautaret Lodge & Spa

    6. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    The Lautaret Lodge & Spa is a beautiful big hotel at a crossroads frequented by bicyclists, motorcyclists, and sports car drivers. Famous roads go three directions from here. It's an older building but well kept up. It used to be called Glacier Hotel because, across from the front, there's a big old glacier on the mountain.

    The rooms are the largest I've seen on this trip. I'm here for two nights and I'll get an early start tomorrow. If I get the scheduled route done early, I'll try to run over to Bardonecchia, Italy to see that town again.

    I had dinner at the hotel. They had Raclette on the menu but only for two people or more. I wanted to try this but I lacked a partner in dining. A trio of Germans sitting near me ordered the Raclette. After the waiter brought it to the table, they just stared at it for a few minutes. They flagged down the waiter and told him that they didn't know what to do. They caught on quickly. Raclette means squeegee. There is a wooden scraper that you use to squeegee cheese off the half wheel of Raclette.

    I try to take a quick look at what the waiter puts in front of me and then think of questions. Is the sauce for the potatoes or the meat? Do you mix in the ham with the potatoes or eat it separately? A good tourist is analytical.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Men's facilities are al fresco
    I have never seen a more scenic location for an outhouse

    Rest Stop, Rural French Style

    7. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Old guys always have to keep an eye out for the public toilets. I noticed this one and had to stop. Forgive me for being crude, but this is an interesting variation on the dry toilet. Men get to stand outside as you see. Inside, there's a bucket of sawdust and after you do your business, you put on two scoops. It does not smell and is ecologically sound.Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    Col de la Sarenne
    Every direction you look, is beauty and grandeurScenic overloadA high Alpine Marsh

    Col de Sarenne

    7. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    The road up to the pass was so bumpy that it hindered my ability to keep a smooth line through the curves. Considering that some of those curves had a drop off of who knows how many feet, that was scary. Getting to the top made it all worthwhile.

    The Marais du Col de Sarenne is an Alpine Marsh at 6000 feet altitude. The rocky mountains cannot absorb rain so it drains into the soil of the marsh, making an unusual environment.    Lue lisää

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  • Bruce DimonThe French RideBruce Dimon
    These purple flowers are everywhere.
    A scenic little pond for the cows to enjoyThere is a new sticker in the collectionA snack is calling me

    Col de la Croix de Fer

    7. syyskuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    The Col de la Croix de Fer is at 6780 feet but there are more bicyclists here than motorcyclists. The road up had an eight perfect grade in places! Some of the older bicyclists are walking as if their legs are cramping, but they made it.

    Pistachio ice cream and my favorite sparkling water, Badoit. The French still reuse their glass bottles instead of crushing them and melting them down. Why did Americans stop doing that?

    Just as I stopped at the top of the Col de la Croix de Fer, a cattle truck passed. It had only two axles and was about 25 ft long. It was a double-decker with the cows on two levels. While I was enjoying my ice cream, a tractor passed by towing a trailer with maybe ten cows. Finally, a pickup passed with a trailer that was a milking machine. It could service maybe six cows at a time.

    I took video while stuck behind and passing these vehicles. The road was so narrow in places that bicyclists pedaling up the mountain had to stop and step off the pavement to allow the tractor with its load of cows to pass. The road was so narrow in places that the trailer only had a foot of clearance on each side.

    There are a lot of cows up at these high elevations. I don't know if they have barns up here; perhaps they're only here for the summer. I noticed a lot of farms up at altitude selling cheeses direct to consumers. I guess it's easier to make the cheese where the cows make the milk then to transport the milk down to a factory in the valley. Where I have been, the two most produced cheeses are Tomme and Beaufort.    Lue lisää

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