The French Ride

After a few days in Paris to shake off the jet lag, I'll rent a motorcycle for 15 days and ride through the Alps down to the Riviera and back. もっと詳しく

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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Hôtel Cœur des Neiges
2024年9月3日, フランス ⋅ 🌩️ 72 °F
I followed the GPS directly to this beautiful hotel. The room is as pretty as the inside and the views from the windows and balcony are nice.

I walked around the town of St. Gervais-les-Bains, checking out the restaurants. I also toured a fortified house which is a mini fort that the rich guy built to protect himself from the Swiss or Italians, don't know which.

When the rain started two hours before dinner time, I headed back to the hotel for a Negroni (gin, Compari, & Vermouth). Delicious if you like bitter flavors as I do.

The rain stopped just as the church bell tolled seven times to announce dinner time. I enjoyed a Tartiflette with salad. It's kind of like potatoes au gratin but with real, creamy cheese and pork belly. For dessert, I had fromage blanc which is similar to yogurt (more cheese flavor) and of course, an espresso.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Day 2 Begins
2024年9月4日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
Today's mountain passes:
Col des Montets
Col de la Forclaz (Swiss)
Col de Champex
Col du Grand St. Bernard

It stormed last night and they say today will be rainy. I'm not going to worry about it. Right now, the roads are mostly wet and the rain might not start for another 20 minutes or so. That's good enough.

About an hour into the ride, the display turned red to warn me that the rear tire was losing air and was dangerously low on pressure. I stopped, removed my Aerostich motorcycle suit, and put on the orange vest. French law requires a driver to wear an orange or yellow vest when broken down on the side of the road. I examined that tire closely but could not find an object in the tire. Finally, I decided to ride slowly to the gas station that was a kilometer away.
Well, that crazy computer now told me that the tire was fine. It was a momentary glitch. Only 30 minutes wasted, no sweat.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Col de la Forclaz (the Swiss one)
2024年9月4日, スイス ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F
I rode into Switzerland. Even though there were border control agents, they did not look at me. I stopped at the sign, glanced at them to see if they cared about me (no), and rode into their country. I noticed some heavy metal doors leading into the mountains next to the road. I've heard stories that they are well prepared to repel invaders; I guess it's true.

There is a Col de la Forclaz in Switzerland. Yesterday, I went over a pass with the same name in France. Who copied whom?

On the other side of the pass, there is a pull-off to look down at the Vallée de Rhône. The sign was plastered with stickers. I added mine; look closely.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Col du Grand St-Bernard
2024年9月4日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F
I should call it Colle del Gran San Bernardo since I crossed from Switzerland into Italy. Because of construction on the Swiss side, I had to bypass the good Swiss road with a toll tunnel and then backtrack on the Italian roads, making it a round trip on the Italian side. The tunnel had a long backup to pay the toll. I went on vacation to get away from traffic like that.

It worked out for the best because the Italian side had an amazing road to the pass. I took long break here in spite of the threatening skies. Not a drop fell on me until after I checked into the hotel.

The Colle del Gran San Bernardo is in Italy so it's time for a cappuccino. I asked if 1:00 pm was too late for a cappuccino and the barista said no. I wonder if that really meant, "not too late for Americans who drink them all day long." Italians believe that drinking milk late in the day is bad for digestion.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Aosta, Italy
2024年9月4日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
Remember the weather forecast at the start of the day? In spite of forecasting rain almost every hour of the day, I didn't have a single drop. I am so lucky!

Aosta is my only stop in Italy on this trip. It's a fascinating city that was founded by, who else, the Romans. I deviated from the preprogrammed GPS route to find a Post office. The first two were closed. The first one was closed for a union meeting the second one was simply not open on Wednesday afternoons. After getting my stamp at the third post office, I set the GPS to go directly to the hotel, that was a mistake.

The GPS database does not adequately know which streets are closed for pedestrian traffic. I followed it blindly down an alley which got narrower and narrower and finally emptied out into a street filled with pedestrians and shops. I got some dirty looks and I knew I was in the wrong place. I guess I didn't notice the little sign, a red circle with a white interior, that indicated the street was not for vehicles. It's possible I might get a ticket in the mail.

After checking into a very nice hotel, I walked out in the street to learn a little something about Aosta. There is a well-preserved Roman bridge and section of the city walls with the Praetorian portals. I walked over the bridge and imagined legionnaires matching where I walked. After buying a gelato, I walked around for a couple hours before going to dinner.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Osteria Il Vicolo
2024年9月4日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
Rick Steves says to go a little off the tourist street to get an authentic meal. I was lucky to find the Osteria Il Vicolo. It is down a side street and only one employee speaks English. Thanks to translation apps, no problem. Plus you gotta love a restaurant with an antique Moto Guzzi in the foyer and scooters decorating the dining room.

My primo plat was cannelloni alla Valdostana. Pasta tubes with a mixture of local cheese served in a casserole.
My secundi was beef alla Valdostana. I'm eating locally tonight. Beef is sliced thinly and covered with a slice of ham and cheese and then grilled. It's served with polenta, which I love because it's like grits and I love grits. I had to have dessert and ordered a panne cota. Now I know how it is supposed to taste like. Not just smooth and a little sweet (just a little so the fruit confiture can add its sugars) but solid, like a flan. Everything I've eaten at Italian restaurants in the States is put to shame.
I topped it off with a digestif, Gin Genesi an aromatic gin from Sardinia.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Day 3 Begins
2024年9月5日, イタリア ⋅ 🌧 63 °F
Today's mountain passes:
Col du Petit St. Bernard
Col de l'Iseran
Col de la Madeleine

The sound of a plastic garbage bin rolling across the pavement woke me up. Somebody kept rolling that thing back and forth across the courtyard. It was beginning to bother me when I realized it was not the rumble of plastic wheels on rough pavement; it was thunder. I opened the weather app and saw the map covered with green, accented with yellow and red. Well it's not going to change for me so let's go.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
La Thuile
2024年9月5日, イタリア ⋅ 🌫 55 °F
La Thuile is a resort town near the Col de Petit Saint Bernard (Little Saint Bernard Pass). I saw the sign for free motorcycle parking and decided to give them my business. I bought a post card and an espresso. I could not resist walking around a bit.

Although it's been raining since I left the hotel, my rain gear is keeping me mostly dry. The leaks will not start for another two hours.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Col de Petit Saint Bernard
2024年9月5日, イタリア ⋅ 🌫 45 °F
Little Saint Bernard Pass is pretty. I bet it would be prettier if I could have seen more of it. Lots of clouds obscured the view but it was cool to watch them pass so close to the ground.
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Chapelle Saint Michel
2024年9月5日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F
Chapelle Saint Michel in Montvalezan, France is so pretty that I parked in somebody's driveway to take this picture and stayed a few extra minutes to stare.
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Val d'Isère
2024年9月5日, フランス ⋅ 🌫 50 °F
The route had me go through Val d'Isère on the way to Col de l'Iseran, one of the most famous high Alpine passes. As I approached Val d'Isère, an electronic sign said the pass was closed. I stopped for lunch to check the website. A landslide closed the pass. I hope nobody was hurt and I'm glad that I was not there to be involved in it. I stopped for lunch and to recalculate.

Lunch was a creamy squash soup and raspberry tart. For a place that looked like a tourist trap, it was delicious. It was served with mozzarella to sprinkle in the soup. I swear that French raspberries are bigger and more flavorful than American berries. Maybe it's just their skill in preparation.

The planned route was 92 miles but I rode a total of 164 miles because there is no detour possible from Val d'Isère to my hotel in Val Cenis. I had to backtrack and go far to the west and approach Val Cenis from the west instead of the east. It would be like going from Connecticut to New York City via Albany, NY.

At least the rain stopped in Val d'Isère and I peeled off the rain gear. In exchange, I was on roads with trucks.

My detour passed through the Col de la Madeleine. It was a vertigo-inducing ride.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Col de la Madeleine
2024年9月5日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F
I wish I was not afraid of heights; I could have enjoyed this ride a lot more. The scenery was astounding. Thankfully, I turned on my 360° camera several times. I can go back and look at the scenery that I was too afraid to look at while riding. The pictures you see here are when I pulled off and walked over to take the photo. It's so beautiful in this part of France. Well, all of France is beautiful.

I met a group of friends at the top of the pass. Well, I should say they passed me on the way to the top. One of them was kind enough to take my picture and I rewarded him with one of my club stickersもっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Hôtel la Turra
2024年9月5日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
Hôtel la Turra is not just a hotel, but a recognized master chef restaurant. Oh the flavors! I had the creamy potato soup with an egg for the entree. For the main dish, I had the slow-cooked pork with creamed squash and glazed carrots.

I drank a wonderful Cote du Rhône and finished with cheese. They served me Tomme and Beaufort. Wow! This is why the French are the masters of cuisine.

I admit to being really tired. 164 miles of riding in the Alps is exhausting. Time to go to sleep early.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Another Day, Another Closed Pass
2024年9月6日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F
The day dawned clear with only enough clouds to make the scenery interesting. However, the same rain that closed the Col de l'Iseran with a landslide also closed the Col du Mont-Cenis. Thankfully, the closure was after the prettiest scenery. The French Ride called and told me to go as far as the road was open then turn around.

They worked on a detour while I enjoyed the amazing scenery. Good thing I have the 360° video camera because the drop-off required me to keep my eyes on the road. I'll look at the landscape at home. The pictures are of the route to the pass above the town of Lanslebourg-mont-cenis.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Col du Mont-Cenis
2024年9月6日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F
This lake and mountains are a three-star destination by themselves. If the landslide had not closed it, the road would continue into Italy. This is where I turned around and backtracked over roads from this morning and yesterday afternoon. The French Ride sent me a new route with an option to continue into Italy if I feel like making it a long day.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Fort Marie-Thèrese
2024年9月6日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F
The Marie-Thérèse Redoubt is one of the five forts that make up the Esseillon barrier, at Haute Maurienne Vanoise. This fortified complex was built by the Kingdom of Sardinia in the early 19th century, on the road to the Mont-Cenis pass, then the main route through the western Alps.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Col du Télégraphe
2024年9月6日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
Col du Télégraphe was named after the Napoleonic telegraph station in the 19th century. It was not electric but used giant semaphore flags. An operator would pull levers to raise the flags that represented words or letters. Another operator would repeat the message he saw. A message could get from the southern Coast to Paris in less than a half hour. Think how amazing that would be before the electric telegraph was invented. How would you like the job to stare at this view waiting for the signals from the other mountaintops.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Col du Galibier
2024年9月6日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F
Now the mountains are getting really high. I'm crossing from the department of the Savoie to the department of the Hautes-Alpes (High Alps). Most Americans think of Italy or Austria or Switzerland when they think about the highest Alps. France has the tallest mountains, including the granddaddy of them all, Mont Blanc.

My fear of heights was really kicking in. It was hard for me to get to the edge of the roadway when opposing traffic was coming downhill. Of course, I didn't have to be on the edge of the roadway like the bicyclists. Road shoulders? They don't have those here.

There were three different photography companies set up at various corners, taking pictures of the bikes and cool cars. The problem is, I was too scared to lean over very far. I wonder if Photoshop has a solution for that. Also, it's a little hard to lean into the inside of a corner when a photographer's head and camera are about a foot from your bike as you pass.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Lautaret Lodge & Spa
2024年9月6日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
The Lautaret Lodge & Spa is a beautiful big hotel at a crossroads frequented by bicyclists, motorcyclists, and sports car drivers. Famous roads go three directions from here. It's an older building but well kept up. It used to be called Glacier Hotel because, across from the front, there's a big old glacier on the mountain.

The rooms are the largest I've seen on this trip. I'm here for two nights and I'll get an early start tomorrow. If I get the scheduled route done early, I'll try to run over to Bardonecchia, Italy to see that town again.

I had dinner at the hotel. They had Raclette on the menu but only for two people or more. I wanted to try this but I lacked a partner in dining. A trio of Germans sitting near me ordered the Raclette. After the waiter brought it to the table, they just stared at it for a few minutes. They flagged down the waiter and told him that they didn't know what to do. They caught on quickly. Raclette means squeegee. There is a wooden scraper that you use to squeegee cheese off the half wheel of Raclette.

I try to take a quick look at what the waiter puts in front of me and then think of questions. Is the sauce for the potatoes or the meat? Do you mix in the ham with the potatoes or eat it separately? A good tourist is analytical.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Glacier Blanc
2024年9月6日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
The white Glacier is very large for being this far south. I decided to take photographs of it at different times of the day. The first one is late afternoon before sunset. The next one is dusk. The last one is early morning.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Round trip from Col de Lautaret
2024年9月7日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F
I got an early start hoping that I would have time to ride to Bardonecchia, Italy after today's loop. It would be a big plan but I am used to big rides. I headed toward the Col de Sarenne.
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Rest Stop, Rural French Style
2024年9月7日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F
Old guys always have to keep an eye out for the public toilets. I noticed this one and had to stop. Forgive me for being crude, but this is an interesting variation on the dry toilet. Men get to stand outside as you see. Inside, there's a bucket of sawdust and after you do your business, you put on two scoops. It does not smell and is ecologically sound.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Col de Sarenne
2024年9月7日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F
The road up to the pass was so bumpy that it hindered my ability to keep a smooth line through the curves. Considering that some of those curves had a drop off of who knows how many feet, that was scary. Getting to the top made it all worthwhile.

The Marais du Col de Sarenne is an Alpine Marsh at 6000 feet altitude. The rocky mountains cannot absorb rain so it drains into the soil of the marsh, making an unusual environment.もっと詳しく
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Pas de la Confession
2024年9月7日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F
I'm going to guess that they named it the Pass of the Confession because the road is so narrow and twisting and so high, that it would put the fear of God in you.
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The French Ride Bruce Dimon
Col de la Croix de Fer
2024年9月7日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
The Col de la Croix de Fer is at 6780 feet but there are more bicyclists here than motorcyclists. The road up had an eight perfect grade in places! Some of the older bicyclists are walking as if their legs are cramping, but they made it.

Pistachio ice cream and my favorite sparkling water, Badoit. The French still reuse their glass bottles instead of crushing them and melting them down. Why did Americans stop doing that?

Just as I stopped at the top of the Col de la Croix de Fer, a cattle truck passed. It had only two axles and was about 25 ft long. It was a double-decker with the cows on two levels. While I was enjoying my ice cream, a tractor passed by towing a trailer with maybe ten cows. Finally, a pickup passed with a trailer that was a milking machine. It could service maybe six cows at a time.

I took video while stuck behind and passing these vehicles. The road was so narrow in places that bicyclists pedaling up the mountain had to stop and step off the pavement to allow the tractor with its load of cows to pass. The road was so narrow in places that the trailer only had a foot of clearance on each side.

There are a lot of cows up at these high elevations. I don't know if they have barns up here; perhaps they're only here for the summer. I noticed a lot of farms up at altitude selling cheeses direct to consumers. I guess it's easier to make the cheese where the cows make the milk then to transport the milk down to a factory in the valley. Where I have been, the two most produced cheeses are Tomme and Beaufort.もっと詳しく
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