Donald Lake

As we arrived in to Edmonton and picked up our rental car, the snow began to come down! The forecast was due to clear up though, so we declined the offer of a 4x4 and accepted our VW Jetta. Three or so hours of dead straight roads through prairie fields and corn farms later we arrived in to Drumheller, a landscape of layered rock and fossils. We paid our entrance to the Royal Tyrell Museum and wandered through many a display of dinosaur remains, many found locally. After three hours in the museum we headed to our house for the night, passing by the world's largest dinosaur on the way. At our stay for the night we rang the doorbell but to no avail; Hugo went round the back and waved to the host through the window. The Chinese woman and her kid came to open the door, looked at us with mild surprise and then shut it again for a few minutes. Opening it again she showed her phone to me and I nodded that I was indeed Marie Abbott. We were allowed in and she explained the complicated door locking system through gesture and limited English (and extensive use of the word 'ding dong'). We tried to explain that we had done what she said to press the doorbell but there was little point. Anyway the room was nice and we shared the open plan living area with a Korean guy and 2 girls from Singapore who were staying there for the period of their uni exchange. We went out to get some food supplies and luckily we chose well. What appeared a nice kitchen was actually somewhat limited - a sink, kettle, toaster and the all essential wine cooler. Using our creative culinary minds we put some eggs in the kettle, boiled the water and added to packet noodles with some chopped salami. For a garnish we added some spring onions - gourmet!! We then proceeded to have a three way Google translate conversation - an example of technology bringing people together!

In the morning we checked out and found a cafe with Wi-Fi. I ordered a hot chocolate; we experienced a whole new level of 'coffee art' as the barista spent at least five minutes meticulously dotting frothed milk on the surface. Hugo and I watched on, averting our gaze when he tutted to himself in dissapointment with his efforts. Finally he handed over what I think was a dragon breathing fire. Sadly we had already passed the tip jar. On our way from Calgary to Canmore we had pre-booked an interactive wolfdog tour at a local sanctuary, Yamnuska. Along with other visitors we fed both high and low content wolfdogs whilst listening to information about their rescue, their behaviours and how they are not suitable pets! Their hearing is insane - a range of 10km. Contrary to popular belief, they are in fact wary of humans. Nova, the arctic wolf mix, was very cautious when approaching us humans for food, despite having been somewhat socialised during her time at the sanctuary. She in fact looked at the human rather than the food, and once it had been thrown to her took steps back before building courage to approach again. After feeding we wandered around to look at the other wolf dogs. It was then that a canon of howls began - cool to experience! In the afternoon we stopped at Grassi Lakes to do a short 3.8km hike. The pools at the top of the incline were incredible shades of green and turquoise - the water so clear that you could see the bottom of the pools. We climbed a little higher to get a look down on the pools and the forested valley. When later checking in at the hostel we read that a bear warning had been issued for the area! Unfortunately Hugo's glasses broke on the way down!

On the way to the hostel we spotted what we thought was a mountain goat, but now think was a female long horned sheep (ironically without long horns). We passed by the 'Three Sisters' peaks and crossed the Bow River. Our hostel for two nights was HI Canmore - a beautiful wooden lodge with views over the town and the huge mountains of Banff National Park behind from the large panel windows and balcony. Upon entering the kitchen we witnessed a large group of Korean writers tucking into a feast of home cooked soup etc. Comparatively our simple stir fry with questionable 'chinese sausage' did not appeal as much. In the evening Hugo entertained himself on the hostel piano and we had a game of pool. Whilst chatting to one of the Canadian hostellers, she explained that her hiking group were here to celebrate a member's 40th birthday. She mentioned they were having a potluck the following evening and when we enquired about what this was, she explained that it was where everyone brought a food contribution. I informed her that in the Midlands it is called a 'fuddle', much to her amusement.

The following morning Hugo and I embarked upon an 8km round-trip hike to Ha Ling Peak. The peak rises 2407m and overlooks the town of Canmore just outside Banff National Park. Man was that some elevation gain! As we neared the top the terrain became harder to climb due to the snow. At some points it was a case of using all fours to scramble up. As we moved beyond treeline to the rock face we began to see the rewards of our efforts. Breathtaking in more than one way! Satisfied with the view from the mountain ridge, we decided not to attempt the rocky slope to the very top. We paused to have lunch however it was so cold and snowflakes had started to fall. Slightly heady from the dizzying views we took some panoramas and then started on our way back down, slightly apprehensive about the sketchy descent. Hugo mastered the controlled slide whereas I went for the side shuffle. There were offers of hands to hold and sticks to grip on to. One guy even started whittling a point at the end of a stick to use as a walking pole. As we neared the bottom we saw a rescue helicopter hovering overhead with a body dangling - sure enough at the car park there was an ambulance, although not an emergency as we saw the two paramedics seated inside. 4 hours 50 minutes - our legs were burning! The offer of a hot tub was too good to refuse so we went to the Elevation Place leisure centre - only to find the hot tub was closed!! Still, a swim and steam room was a good way to wind down. We called in to Safeway for some supplies and the smell of the Chinese buffet was too tempting. That evening we talked with our dorm mates, three guys on climbing vacation, all of whom were paramedics in Hamilton, Ontario.

Next morning we drove up the Trans-Canada Highway to the tourist-packed town of Banff. Over here cattle grids are known as 'Texas gates'. We browsed around a thrift store where I picked up a hat for $3, and then went to collect our tandem bike for the day. The plan was to cycle the 26km legacy trail from Banff to Canmore and get the bus back. Shortly after setting off we came across 3 mule deer by the highway, identifiable by their long ears. Futher down I spotted a bird of prey - a golden eagle - circling the treetops. There was also an Osprey nest and evidence of beavers. We managed to master the syncronised start and Hugo was in charge of braking and steering. It was a scenic ride and mostly downhill, allowing us to enjoy the vistas across the valley. After a refreshing pint at the Grizzly Paw brewery in Canmore, we walked up and down the main street before heading back to wait at the bus stop. After 20 minutes the bus arrived, however we were met with an immediate shake of the head from the bus driver. He could not take a tandem on the front of the bus. By this time it was 6.30pm and we faced an hour and a half cycle back to Banff. Naturally tempers frayed and the envisaged bonding day disintegrated in to me walking for a while whilst Hugo cycled. 32 miles of peripheral vision behind Hugo and aching legs from the previous day's hike had taken its toll. Luckily we had until next morning to give the bikes back. We reunited in a shared determination to make it back before darkness and collapsed back at the hostel, before sharing travel stories with two British guys in the opposite bunk. They offered us alcoholic iced tea, a new discovery of theirs, and a good one, too. While preparing tea we talked with a girl from NZ, Kate, who offered us some spring onions to add to our meal!The British guys headed in to town and we were almost tempted to join them at the Dancing Sasquatch nightclub.

The following morning we dropped the tandem back, attracting attention from onlookers as we cycled down the street. We decided to have a bit of a rest day and so walked along the Bow River and Fenland Trail. By the stream we saw an animal print, although when we asked a hostel manager what it was, he replied 'dog' - our excitment was quickly dashed. Still, we clapped and sang our way around, as recommended by Parks Canada to avoid a surprise bear encounter.

Having explored Banff and got the t-shirt, we drove up the Bow Valley Parkway. The road was bordered by beautiful yellow, orange and brown undergrowth. We stopped at Johnston Canyon to walk 5.4km to the upper and lower falls (upper falls being dissapointingly inferior to lower). At HI Castle Mountain we checked in with the notorious manager, Tony. He ran a tight ship of separate gender dorms and various rules, but was a great character. We heated up our pasta from the night before and talked with two hostellers. We learnt the card game 'Crazy 8's' and Hugo had a strum on the guitar. Hugo stayed up listening to Tony's interesting conspiracy theories about block chains ("did you know that they have a permanent record of everything you do on the internet?"), the NSA and the imminent start of WWIII. He even let Hugo in on the secret that it had been "a busy month" for him but that he wasn't allowed to say any more than that because it was "classified" information. Perhaps it's to be expected for a guy that has lived alone in the wildnerness for 17 years without a car. Sadly people will no longer get to enjoy his company next year as he is leaving to cycle through Britain, meaning pernanent closure of the hostel.

Next morning we continued on our way and drove through Yoho National Park to Emerald Lake. I think all lakes in the Rockies could be given this title - they really are the turquoise green you see on the Windows screensaver! At all the various tourist spots we were joined by what seemed like the whole of Korea and China. This turned out to be a unifying conversation topic between the European hostellers. Their desire for the perfect photo resulted in some entertaining moments for us - we have photos of them taking photos. Once you pass the car park where they all file out of their coaches, you are able to enjoy the amazing scenery. We walked the 5.2km circuit around the lake, mesmerized by the pallette of colours of trees, canoes and lake. On the far side of the lake a man sat playing the harmonica. As we were passing the expensive lake view lodges, a blue steller's jay flew down to enjoy the remains of breakfast left on the doorstep. Driving back through Yoho National Park we stopped at Takkakaw Falls, although for once were actually a bit underwhelmed! Spoilt by the Rockies scenery so far I guess. In preparation for our wilderness stays we stocked up on food in the overpriced supermarket in Lake Louise, picking up eggs, 'British style' Heinz beans and bacon for our breakfasts.

The sign outside our hostel, Mosquito Creek, read 'no showers, no electricity, a sauna, some Wi-Fi and the best place in the rockies'. We were met by the friendly relief manager, Jamie, who informed us that our cabin was historically a prisoner of war cabin that had been relocated to the current site upon acquisition by hostelling international - a sobering thought when you're sleeping at night. We asked him about the people we had seen sporting skis on wheels - he said they were likely athletes training for cross country skiing. Apparently in Canmore they bury some snow for the year in sawdust and then a few weeks prior to the snow season, uncover it to allow the athletes to get in a couple of weeks of extra practice - a method known as snowfarming. That night we joined 4 ozzies and Jamie around the campfire, toasting 'marshies' and exchanging knowledge of fish and chips and bear tales.

After a yummy breakfast cooked on the propane cooker and using the only water tap on site, Jamie gave us an explanation on how to use bear spray and lended us his spare can for the day - only 5 seconds of use in one can, so make it count! He had recommended the Paradise Valley trail so as to avoid other tourists, and so we embarked on the 20km hike. However with us not setting off until midday we decided to turn back shortly after Lake Annette and only completed 9km so as to return in daylight. The view from the lake was beautiful - a glacier hung over the mountain and the yellow larch trees reflected in the water. Back in Lake Louise we stopped for a drink in the Outpost Pub. Tea was again instant noodles - we know how to live! That evening we met James, a German engineer with a briliant beard that had cycled from Brazil to Canada. We discussed the differences in salary for an engineer in our respective countries (spoiler - Hugo needs to move to Germany) and Jamie fired up the wood-burning sauna before we all piled in. Satisfyingly warm, we then made a quick dash to the glacially fresh creek and Hugo and James dipped their bodies into the freezing water. Second time round I got further than a toe and managed a splash wash, passing around the soap. Re-dressed we spent an hour or so gazing up at the great display of stars against the silhouette of Bow Peak (no, not the nursery rhyme). We finally made use of the tripod to take some night time photography. Next day we learnt that some people had seen the northern lights! Narrowly missed them again!Read more