• Vancouver, Boarding the Silver Nova

    12. september 2024, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Nancy, Jim and I, after all waking up at 4:30am, decided to explore Vancouver a bit before boarding the Silver Nova,
    Jeff and I were in Vancouver in the mid-nineties after an Alaskan cruise and found the city to be quite gritty. It s seems like that has changed and the city has experienced quite a lot of waterfront
    upscaling. Having awakened so early, it seemed like we had had a full day by noon!
    We boarded the ship and headed straight to lunch and drinks as we had worked up a powerful thirst by then.
    We have always loved the Silversea ships, but the Silver Nova goes above and beyond. It is an environmentally friendly ship which has abandoned all use of plastics and many other similar items.
    It took the balance of the day to become familiar with the ship which holds about 700 passengers.
    An excellent dinner (salmon for me, we are in Alaska) and an early bedtime for 3 weary travelers.
    Les mer

  • Vancouver

    11. september 2024, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We arrived in Vancouver late this evening.
    Jeff learned last night that his Dad’s health was declining so he flew to Iowa when we left for Vancouver to spend a couple of days with him before joining us in Juneau, Alaska.
    Uneventful flight and what felt like about 20 checks of our passports.
    Les mer

  • Spring House Farms, Virginia

    26. april 2024, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Always good to be home again.❤️

  • Orvieto, Italy

    25. april 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Sadly, our last day of vacation, but we are having a day trip to Orvieto before driving to Rome to board our plane home tomorrow.
    The first good thing that happened is that we both found something to wear that was relatively
    clean and still fit after all the bread and pasta we’ve consumed.
    The Duomo in Orvieto is magnificent and highly ornamented. It was a busy city with lots of people enjoying the beautiful day.
    We parked in the tightest parking spot I have ever seen. Much maneuvering got us into a spot before we realized that we somehow needed to get out of the car. A very tight squeeze with us completely holding our breath got us out.
    We will leave Italy dreaming about the next visit here.
    Les mer

  • Arezzo, Italy

    24. april 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    A beautiful, puffy-clouded sky drive to Arezzo in Tuscany today. A little bit of sightseeing, but an incredible lunch at Rob’s favorite restaurant.
    Jeff and I recognize that all this fabulous Danish, French and Italian dining is going to come to a screeching halt in 2 days when we get on the plane to fly home. I think it will be free-style dining for the next day and a half!
    Pizza for dinner tonight!
    Les mer

  • Todi, Italy

    23. april 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    A wonderful 10+ hours of sleep and a great shower this morning (I don’t even know where to start with describing some of the bad shower situations we’ve had on this trip) started the day off perfectly. As much as we love the walking part of our trip, it was nice to have a day where we went the big distances in the car.
    A visit to Deruta yielded many painted terra cotta treasures in lovely traditional designs.
    Jeff has assured me that the numerous pieces that we purchased will fit just fine in our carry-ons.
    Next was a visit to Perugia which is a much larger city than Todi. Many interesting architectural features, but the highlight was a larger than life underground old city that had barrel-vaulted ceilings and enormous spaces. There are shops in some of the rooms and it is quite busy. The city can be traced back to 309bc and it developed under many different influences in the subsequent centuries. It exists on many elevations reached by lots (LOTS) of stairs.
    When we arrived back in Todi, we took the funicular (see photo) from the parking lot to Robert’s house which saves a lot of walking up.
    More exploration this afternoon in Todi including a visit to a highly decorated church here in town. We did get hailed on this afternoon. By the way, if it looks like we have the same clothes on in every picture from this trip, we do. The weather has been unexpectedly chilly the whole trip with the exception of the 2 86° days. So every day we put on everything we have and pretend it’s something fresh. We rejoice when we go through our suitcase and find something new. Using only a carryon definitely limits the choices.
    Dinner tonight was a pistachio filled pasta for me and a pasta with truffles for Jeff. I really needed a salad tonight and ordered the salad mista. Since it was only 5euros, I worried it might be too small for my tastes and thought about ordering two. Luckily I didn’t since it came in a large serving bowl!
    Les mer

  • Todi, Italy

    22. april 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    We flew to Rome this morning and drove north to Todi, Italy in Umbria to visit our dear friend Robert. His home is a renovated structure built into the city wall that was once in ruins. It is now a gorgeous home with beautiful architectural details and absolutely spectacular views over the Umbrian countryside.
    The town is interesting and lively and the food is fabulous.
    Les mer

  • Paris

    21. april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    No pictures today. Just 2 weary travelers after a long day in 2 taxis and 3 trains.

  • Rocamadour, France

    20. april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Another 10 mile walk brought us to Rocamadour.
    It is literally a city that hangs off a cliff. We have said so many times during this trip that the people who built these incredibly fortified towns must have always been scared to death because they were pretty impenetrable and often have 360° views around them. Anyone coming for an attack would have been seen in plenty of time for preparation.
    Our walk today was mostly through tiny villages and farmland. Thankfully, the uphill climbs were relatively brief and Jeff kept up good conversation during them to distract me.
    Rocamadour is very much of a tourist site today.
    Most of the buildings were built in 1105. It has become a pilgrimage to visit the stations of the cross while traversing the zigzagging route down the cliff side.
    Rocamadour is famous for its cheese and foie gras.
    Les mer

  • More walking in the French countryside

    19. april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    A hard 9 mile walk on a spectacular day. Not a cloud in the sky and in the 60’s which is quite a difference from when it sleeted yesterday!
    Our walks here have a large range of walking surfaces. There are trails, tracks, rocky tracks, asphalt and just rocks. We experience deciduous woods, farm fields, cliff edges and small villages.
    There is always something new to see. Jeff is always game for whatever is happening, but even though I can walk on flat ground forever, I dislike going up a steep incline and I need lots of breaks so I don’t start whining. Often we can walk for hours and never see another person.
    Our luggage is transferred to the next place we are staying and each day, the hotel or inn provides with dinner, breakfast the next morning and a packed lunch before we leave.
    We love this type of vacation and we joke that after walking all day, it is guilt free eating and drinking at dinner.
    Tonight we stayed in Meyronne in a castle from 1100. It was a very interesting and our room had huge angled rafter beams that were perfect for hitting your head in the dark.
    Les mer

  • Carennac, France

    18. april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Again, we are taking a day off to explore this lovely French village. Our delightful bed and breakfast , La Petite Auberge, is tastefully done and very comfortable. One of the owners is a chef and manages to stuff us with fabulous food every chance he gets. The locally sourced food is so good. And since we are in cheese-making country, there seems to be cheese at every turn-and I’ve never met a cheese I didn’t like. Even with all of our exercise, I’m afraid we are consuming way more calories than we are burning. Oh well, homemade jams, croissants, yogurts and burrata cheese will not likely be showing up at our table at Spring House Farms anytime soon.
    Oh, and the two rescued dogs seem to have taken to Jeff and I and act quite put out if petting stops.
    Les mer

  • Walking the French Countryside

    17. april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    A nine mile walk today brought us to Carennac, France. Today was probably the most varied and beautiful walk we have ever done. It was enough walking to be pleasantly tired at the end of the day, but not thoroughly exhausted.
    France has a wonderful complex of trails that run through both public and private property, The company we work with, OnFootHolidays, sets everything up including hotels, meals and most importantly, route notes. Because we are walking alone, we have only ourselves and our route notes/maps to depend on. Directions such as
    “Ignoring the immediate, doubling back road, take the other option past a house with a blue-painted balcony”. We have learned (the hard way and more than once), that you pay very close attention to the notes!
    Les mer

  • A day in Loubressac

    16. april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    We are often frustrated to arrive in a beautiful little village in France or elsewhere, tired after walking all day and needing to leave the next morning to get to the next destination. This time we asked OnFootHolidays to customize our trip so that we could have a full day here in this lovely village.

    It was an easy day walking around the village and not paying attention to the opening and closing times of the very few places to get something to eat. A yummy lunch of apricot yogurt and potato chips.
    Les mer

  • Loubressac, France

    15. april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We completed our first day of walking and it was quite an introduction to this “department” in France called the Dordogne.
    The walk today was slated to be 15 miles (yes, you read that correctly), but we opted to get a ride part way to shorten it to 10 miles. The first 5 miles or so were easy and we strolled by bucolic farm fields, cattle and horses with foals. The spring flowers, blooming trees and wildflowers were captivating between their visual beauty and the heady fragrances. We had smiles on our faces as we stopped to have our baguette and cheese for lunch, all the while ignoring the cliffs that were always looming in front of us. I said, “I think we are going to go to the top of those” and Jeff agreed, saying, “I’m sure we are”. .. We did.

    The climb was quite steep and rocky, but the concerning part was that there was an impressive drop off next to the path. That is quite a challenge for 2 people who are both afraid of heights. So as we are cautiously climbing up a rock scramble, we see that there are other groups of hikers going up and down this treacherous path. Are they nuts? Oh no, we’re the ones who are nuts. We actually enjoy pushing ourselves a bit and did notice that most of the hikers were easily at least 20 years younger than us. As we looked at the route notes that guide us on our hike, we saw a term called a “balcony trail”. This is a narrow path with a steep drop off on one side. I was leaning so far to the land side while walking I think I am stuck that way.

    In any case, we were tired upon arriving at our destination, but mostly mentally from focusing so hard. We managed to down a bottle of wine and dinner without incident.
    Les mer

  • Beaulieu, France

    14. april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Today was a travel day for us to arrive at the start of the walking portion of our trip. Jeff masterfully guided us on and off 2 trains and we arrived to Beaulieu, France on an 86° day-quite unusual for mid-April! It is a lovely French village where we quickly found an outdoor bar on the Dordogne River to have some drinks and contemplate why we need to walk miles and miles on our vacations while other people enjoy sitting on the beach drinking pretty drinks with paper umbrellas. Oh well, maybe we will discover the answer this week.Les mer

  • Bordeaux, France

    13. april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Well, Jeff and I had an exciting day of travel to Bordeaux, France. We left Copenhagen for a change of planes in Paris before reaching our final destination. Just as soon as we touched down in Paris, we immediately took off straight up again. The aborted landing was more of a thrill than either of us needed at this juncture.
    We swooped around and landed again. Apparently a plane had not cleared the runway the first time we landed.😬😱

    Anyway, alls well that ends well. Jeff and I had a fun evening in Bordeaux which was absolutely teeming with people. Most of the city is a Workd Heritage sight and there is some incredible architecture.
    Les mer

  • Reffen, Copenhagen

    12. april 2024, Danmark ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    We started the day with a visit to the Juno
    bakery for a warm cardamon bun. WOW! I think it was the best Danish I’ve ever had.

    A very fun afternoon and evening with our friends Emma and Nils who live in Copenhagen, and Franz (visiting from Germany). Franz was Jeff’s German brother when he was an exchange student in Germany during high school. We had a traditional Danish lunch, rode on the electric boat on the river and had a great tapas dinner.

    We also visited a street food area that was made up primarily of shipping containers that were made into food vendor spaces.
    Les mer

  • NOMA, Copenhagen

    11. april 2024, Danmark ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    First of all, today was the anniversary of Jeff and my first date 35 years ago! Who knew that April 11th, 1989 (also my parent’s wedding anniversary),
    was going to change our lives and bring both of us more joy and excitement than imaginable. We are so fortunate.

    Okay, back to the food. I warned you. Tonight’s dining experience could not have been more different from last night. The drama of going into this restaurant was overwhelming as we passed greenhouses, test kitchens and gardens that were lovely even in their early spring apparel. The dining experience here was themed “Ocean” and that became evident in many creative and subtle way through the decor as we were led to our table. Beautiful drapings of seaweed and beams that were covered in hundreds of oyster shells set the rustic scene that included candlelight and servers and chefs that moved seamlessly through the space as though they too were moving through the ocean.

    Any subtlety ended there. There were about 14 courses. I can’t tell you for sure because my head is still whirling from the spectacularly created presentations of boldly prepared food that all related to the ocean. The presentations were based around rustic plates/bowls with different combinations of rocks, rattan trays, shells and seaweed. Each dish was a piece of art to be enjoyed aesthetically before diving into the experience of eating. The imagination that went into each course was overwhelming.

    Again, I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

    We are forever grateful to be able to share both these dining experiences with our two friends.

    By the way, there were two of us that couldn’t/wouldn’t/didn’t eat the fish eye. They brought us beets instead.
    Les mer

  • Copenhagen, Denmark

    11. april 2024, Danmark ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    We have arrived in Copenhagen to a bit of cool and windy weather. The architecture and the waterways are intriguing and we are recognizing a few things we’ve seen in prior visits and enjoying lots of things that are new to us.Les mer

  • Geranium, Copenhagen

    10. april 2024, Danmark ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    We arrived in chilly, windy Copenhagen.
    The architecture, Danish design, flowering trees and spring flowers are all lovely and interesting.

    Yeah, yeah, yeah….. Sorry. This leg of the trip is
    all about the food. Our friend was able to get reservations (months ago) at 2 world renowned
    restaurants here and amazingly invited us to
    join him.

    Tonight we dined at Geranium. I didn’t know quite what to expect so I went in completely unawares to be cast into a magical, ethereal dining space that was quite light and airy with light woods, delicate flowers painted on the walls and sunlight streaming through etched windows. When I requested a glass of champagne, a cart was brought over to discuss my desired perfect glass of bubbly. The wine list was next and it resembled a NYC telephone book ( do those still exist?).

    What followed was 17 delightful and flavorful courses that were each just a few bites, Each was meticulously prepared and were completely delicious. The almost 4 hours spent there were
    relaxing and enhanced by the knowledgeable and warm staff.

    I will let the photos speak for themselves.
    Les mer

  • The Shenandoah Valley

    23. mars 2020, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 37 °F

    Wow! It makes us want to say “what happened while we were gone?” Things are very different than when we left home on January 24th.

    Partway across the South Pacific, the advancement of COVID-19 starting breathing down our necks. It was advancing just behind us in countries we had just been (perhaps we should have stayed in Antarctica?). The threat then jumped over us and countries and islands ahead of us began closing ports.

    We recognize our cruise line was trying to work out the best possible solution. Jeff and I briefly considered leaving in Tahiti, then more seriously in Fiji. As you all know, most recently, the numbers were increasing exponentially and that’s when we learned the cruise was canceled and we had applied for an exemption to dock in Sydney since they had already closed their port. After a few days being held on the ship in the harbor, we walked through a tunnel, got into a bus and went straight to the airport.

    So the journey home began. We had our third set of tickets to go home from Sydney on 2 different airlines, but it was impossible to even check-in on line, much less get a boarding pass. The line at the Hawaiian Airlines ticket counter was impressive (we were second in line), because NO ONE was going to miss their flight. It was pretty quiet, no laughing or lighthearted fun. Getting on the plane felt like a life accomplishment. We took off 40 minutes before Australia closed their borders.

    10 hours of flight time brought us to Honolulu, at which time we realized we had crossed the international date line so we had another day to celebrate (??) our 27th anniversary. It was definitely the most unforgettable anniversary we hope we’ll ever have.

    We were happy to see hand sanitizers every 50’ at the Honolulu airport, but were stunned that our arrival on an international flight did not warrant any kind of screening or travel questions regarding COVID-19. Hello!! We’ve been on a cruise ship, in multiple countries and came from Australia! As one of our friends put it, we had a target on our backs (or, as we joked, a scarlet “C” for cruisers). But, nothing.

    We noticed that about 1/2 the flights listed on the monitors were canceled. Ours looked good and we got checked in for our flight to Dulles. 9 more hours brought us back to Virginia. Not to dwell on it, but there was absolutely no screening or questions at Dulles, plus, 1 hand sanitizer between the plane and our car. What is this country thinking????

    We got to our car, which some wonderful friends had dropped to the airport parking and stocked with hand sanitizer, and got back to the farm to quarantine for as long as necessary.

    I will say again, this was not a hardship for us.
    It was a shortened vacation and a challenge getting home. Nothing compared to the tragedy occurring in the world.

    Our hearts go out to many of the crew on our ship that we became close to. Many of their families depend on their income to live. Quite a few of them were unable to go home because flights were either canceled/full or their countries had closed their borders. They are now traveling on a ghost ship with no guests and a reduced crew. They will be on for about 2 more months during which time they can stop to provision and refuel, but no one can get on or off the ship.

    On that note, I am signing off for this trip. It didn’t turn out the way we expected, but we feel very fortunate to be home and see the arrival of spring as hope.
    Les mer

  • Sydney, Australia

    19. mars 2020, Tasman Sea ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Sorry for the lack of communication, but I had trouble uploading in the middle of the ocean, but we are back with you.

    We sailed into Sydney Harbor 2 days ago, and of course, are unable to leave the ship. Luckily, we had some stunning views of the harbor (the prettiest I’ve ever seen), and the city, which was pretty spectacular at night.

    I believe the last time I wrote, Jeff and I had plane tickets for the 18th. Obviously, those didn’t work since we were still at anchor then. Jeff stayed up all night waiting in line for a “chat” space to change our tickets. We had 987 people ahead of us. I took over when we got our spot and spent the next 4 hours getting tickets to go home on the 20th. I’m glad we didn’t select the flight that changed planes in Qatar since they closed all air traffic today. We will be flying through Honolulu with the thought that if we get stuck there, at least we’ll be in Hawaii. Please keep your fingers crossed that we actually get on a plane. By the way, there were only 2 economy seats left so it will be an interesting 10 1/2 hours, but we were happy to have them. Unusual way to spend our 27th anniversary!

    As I said before, we are just being inconvenienced. Our hardship is nothing compared to what is happening all over the world.
    Everyone on the ship is quite somber. I know that Jeff and I felt the weight of reality as we pulled into Sydney as I suspect everyone else did too.
    We have been existing in a bubble for a while now, but this will not remain a safe place forever. We all recognize we are about to join the rest of the world in the fight to stop this virus by carefully getting ourselves home and isolating as long as we need to. We are lucky to have a great support system, our house is stocked by a good friend and our car will be left at the airport for us.

    We saw a jet fly over today and it seemed hopeful that we might get home.

    I post again as the next part of our trip advances forward!
    Les mer

  • In the Coral Sea

    16. mars 2020, Coral Sea ⋅ 🌧 75 °F

    As we are all aware, the Coronavirus is quickly becoming a global disaster. Many people around the world are suffering from loss and sickness.

    We are merely being inconvenienced. Our cruise was canceled this morning and although things didn’t turn out quite as we expected, it is certainly not the tragedy that many people are experiencing.

    We were turned away from our last 2 ports. There has also been a cyclone roaring down the length of the Coral Sea that stretches between our last stop in Vanuatu and where we are headed in Australia. Did we really need any more drama? Our captain enacted a plan of moving as fast as possible to cross in front of the cyclone and arrive in Brisbane (an unscheduled stop).
    We did indeed cross in front of the cyclone (wow, these seas are rough!!!), but we have been instructed to go directly to Sydney ahead of the Australian government closing Australia’s ports.

    Our cruise has been cut short by 7 weeks, but many passengers had another 11 weeks to go.
    Everyone is anxious and the staff is overworked trying to figure everything out.

    Jeff and I have flights to go home on the 18th through Honolulu. We will self-quarantine after traveling for 2 weeks.

    Having said all this, we’ve had a fabulous time, have met some interesting people, seen incredible sites and have done a good job of keeping each other from spiraling out of control the past few days (thank goodness we take turns!)

    They always say that travel is an adventure, and we definitely agree with that! Uncertainties have escalated this entire trip and it sounds like we are returning to a different world than the one we left just about 2 months ago.
    Les mer

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