Day 10 - Redondela to Pontevedre

I was eager to get on the road this morning. I went to the cafe that I knew would be open but instead of taking a table I stood at the counter like the locals and downed my coffee with them. All of the bars and cafes in Spain have the “Norm from Cheers” vibe going on. When you enter the establishment you call out your greetings and are greeted in return. "Hola, buenos dias!" will get you a long way when you are new to a hangout.

Once I had got walking I recognized a couple of American young women that I'd had conversations with over the past 10 days. They are in their young twenties and have both recently graduated from college. They are both going into service related jobs and I admire who they are and how they want to live their lives. We discussed our three states - Mississippi, Michigan and Idaho; state parks, weather, hurricanes (specifically Katrina) and where we will all go after Santiago. I also mentioned to them that I was curious about today's stage as it was one I had walked two summers ago and I wondered what I would remember.

Nothing.

It was like a brand new stage to me; like I had never seen these landscapes. It made no sense to me, especially when I got to a fork in the road where a pilgrim has to decide if they are walking into Pontevedra on the shorter route alongside the road, or if they will take the longer route that weaves along the river for a couple of miles. I knew that Jamie would have taken us down by the river but as soon as I took that complimentary route I was certain that I'd never walked that way before.

Then it dawned on me - it had rained on us that day! All day! We had walked the stage, but with our heads down guarding our steps. Also, the guidebooks tell you not to take the river route when it is raining or has just rained. It can be a muddy mess and the path itself can become a stream.

I was so grateful to have the chance to walk this stage again. It was remarkable, especially the trees! Some readers may find it silly but I stop and touch some of them, thanking them and drawing energy from them.

At first I was sad at what we had missed two summers ago. Yet as I processed it I was impressed as I thought of the four of us soldiering through, climbing up and over two steep passes, and making it to Pontevedra regardless of the weather and circumstances. Yes, we had our head's down because we had to focus on the next step, but we made it. There is a life lesson here.

***
I was overcome with a sense of gratitude today. I started listing things and before I knew it they were pouring out like a flood and the tears came too. It was the first time I've cried on this Camino. It is nice that they weren't tears of pain, sorrow, grief, confusion or disappointment - though this is a good Way for those tears too.

Trying to describe my feeling of rapture is difficult, but here are a few of moments that held me:
* I greeted an old man and he looked up and smiled at me and wished me a "Good day and a good Way." It started a chain and he addressed all of the pilgrims behind me too.
* I saw a woman on her porch watering all of her flowers. When I got to her house I waited there as the front door was still open and I guessed she had gone in for more water. When she returned I told her how beautiful her area was and thanked her for it. She beamed in delight.
* I saw older men and women out tending their gardens. Some I greeted and waved to, others I just admired in their space and their care.
* I saw grapes beginning to grow on the vines and it filled me with a sense of hope and anticipation.
* I saw a pilgrim climb onto a swing on the side of the Camino, but as soon as she sat down her backpack for some childish fun she realized it was a trap. The fiendish kitties were out of the field and onto her bag looking for goodies in an instant. I laughed out loud!
* There was a bagpiper who looked like Gandolf. It always makes me relieved when I actually see a piper in the forest and know that the music I'm hearing isn't just in my head!
* An Irish friend I made last week caught up to me at a coffee shop and we renewed our tales together.
* The complimentary path along the river was divine. It made me thankful for nature, for breath, and for life.

***
I've continued my pursuit of honoring Alex with where I dine and what I eat. Antonio is also a foodie and loves to cook so we've been searching for the right restaurants in each town. I found today's treasure. The "Menu del dia" was not your typical pilgrim fare, though the price was the same, just 12 Euros. The chef was young, like Alex, and I thanked him personally for the joy he added to my meal. I think I'll have dinner there tonight too.

***
I'm enjoying writing each day. It takes time but it is a good discipline and it helps me process. It isn't the easiest of methods without a computer. I have a small keyboard called a Freewrite that has a small liquid ink screen (like an e-reader). It is designed to write first drafts without distractions as you can't get email on the device, surf the internet, or watch YouTube videos. It is also impossible to edit on the device as there is no mouse pad or navigation other than some rudimentary arrows. It simply allows for quick first drafts and saves the contents to a flash drive.

I almost left the Freewrite at home (it is light, but every oz counts), but Bonnie convinced me to take it. "It's what you bought it for, Dad. So take it and write!"

The process, from getting my first draft to a published FindPenguins post is to turn on the hotspot on my phone, connect the Freewrite, and then send the document to Google Docs. From there I can open up the document on my phone and attempt to edit it before copying it to the app to publish alongside 20 or so photos. My first drafts are pretty rough so editing on the phone takes a while.

Usually when I'm finished I'm ready to fall asleep (If I haven't already several times while editing). I haven't had much additional time for messaging friends and family, especially with the time difference.

I had anticipated having more time and had intended to write to my friend Brian as we have been in a dialogue about his book that is getting published later this year. I was going to bitch to him about the effort it is taking me to write and why I've been delinquent in our correspondence. And then I remembered that since Brian has ALS he has to type each letter with his eye movement. Wrong person to gripe to!

Perspective. And gratefulness. And love.

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