Himalayan Sabbatical

setembro - novembro 2023
  • Chad Tew
A travel meditation on my solo adventure living, learning, and teaching English in a Nepali monastery, followed by travels to explore the spiritual and cultural diversity of India, capped by a spousal reunion tour of the Golden Triangle with LBT. Leia mais
  • Chad Tew

Lista de países

  • Nepal Nepal
  • Índia Índia
  • Catar Catar
  • Estados Unidos Estados Unidos
Categorias
Autodescobrimento, Viagem desacompanhado, Espiritualidade, Yoga
  • 22,3kmilhas percorridas
Meios de transporte
  • Voo19,9kquilômetros
  • Andando-quilômetros
  • Caminhada-quilômetros
  • Bicicleta-quilômetros
  • Motocicleta-quilômetros
  • Tuk tuk-quilômetros
  • Carro-quilômetros
  • Trem-quilômetros
  • Ônibus-quilômetros
  • Motorhome-quilômetros
  • Caravana-quilômetros
  • Veículo 4x4-quilômetros
  • Natação-quilômetros
  • Remoção/Arremesso-quilômetros
  • Lancha-quilômetros
  • Veleiro-quilômetros
  • Casa flutuante-quilômetros
  • Balsa-quilômetros
  • Cruzeiro-quilômetros
  • Cavalo-quilômetros
  • Esqui-quilômetros
  • Carona-quilômetros
  • Cable car-quilômetros
  • Helicóptero-quilômetros
  • Descalço-quilômetros
  • 40pegadas
  • 64dias
  • 235fotos
  • 311curtidas
  • Prologue

    8 de setembro de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Himalayan Sabbatical documents a journey, both inner and geographical, that occurred from early September through mid-November 2023. However, its roots lay in the Covid-19 pandemic that gripped the world in 2020-21. Quarantine isolation affected everyone, but each in their own way. I welcomed the forced isolation as an opportunity to dive deeper into a midlife introspection I had begun prior to the pandemic. I flipped my school consulting work onto Zoom and found time to read philosophy, explore remote counseling, and fill many journals with morning pages inspired by Julia Cameron’s Artist’s Way.

    One pandemic lesson is that life is unpredictable and may be shorter than you think. This realization opened a door in my mind about what was possible. A sense of “if not now, when?” This shift precipitated positive evolution in my work and relationships and lit a fire under my long dormant wanderlust. I decided it was time for a sabbatical.

    I am blessed with a supportive partner and family and, as a self-employed consultant, I didn’t need a boss’s permission to take time off. Decades of careful budgeting and saving provided a level of financial independence. However, I did need to lay the groundwork. Average projects that I worked on lasted 3-9 months. The lead-up to an engagement could add 3-6 months in front of that, as conversations with potential clients led to pitch meetings and presentations, which led to proposals and contracts. I decided in November 2022 that I would block out the second half of 2023 for an extended sabbatical and began telling potential clients about my coming unavailability. I gave myself over six months to wrap up projects in the pipeline, and as it turned out I was working late until June 30, 2023, to finish the last piece.

    I embarked on pausing my work life without having any firm idea how I would spend the sabbatical time. Turning away interesting new projects was hard and a little scary. Would there be any work for me after the time away? Would I still be interested in doing the same work? Everywhere I turned there were questions without answers. That's really the point of the sabbatical, to ask myself questions that don’t have easy answers, and be willing to sit with the open question.

    In my journaling leading up to the trip I wrote about the desire to turn inward, to not be focused on the current that pulls my Chad ego through the material world, but to more deeply connect with the part of me that is bigger than ego, the part that is connected to the cosmos. I wrote about the sabbatical being a kickoff of a new life stage and a chance to better understand what this current incarnation is all about.

    “I want to improve at being here, now, conscious of the world around me, to grow the inner me, and become more capable of making a difference in the time Chad has left,” I wrote. “Embarking on my Himalayan Sabbatical, I feel the call to pull back from the party of ego gratification, materialism, and consumption, and an aspiration to become a bodhisattva, a person focused on service to others, supporting universal enlightenment. Being a source of loving kindness is part of where I want to go in the onward journey.”

    At one point I compared myself to a car, thinking that the sabbatical is like my 90,000-mile service, the big expensive one, where I’d get a spiritual transmission drain and fluid replacement, and possibly need to rebuild a psychological construct or two. This trip was not about self-indulgence or vacationing. My “needs service” light had been on for a while and had been flashing since the pandemic. Before setting out, I envisioned that post-sabbatical I would drive out of my existential mechanic’s shop, back into the traffic of life with my fluids clean and topped off, ready to cruise the multiverse and be of service.

    What follows is an under-the-hood look at my two months in the cosmic auto shop.

    Reed / Chad Tew
    Konchok Tharpa
    December 2023,
    Los Angeles
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  • Packed and ready

    9 de setembro de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    33 hours until departure and this crazy idea I had is about to become real.

    Life is finite, so I’m stepping out of my comfort zone, my familiar, habit-driven environment, to be intentional about refreshing my “why” and a vision for the time I have left. I am a teacher and learner at heart, so I’m stepping back into a classroom as a volunteer teacher, but in a completely different type of school.

    I hope you’ll join me as I head to Kathmandu, and on my wanderlust tour of India, an exploration without an agenda.
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  • Leaving Los Angeles

    11 de setembro de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    It’s happening! I’m about to board the first leg flight ✈️ to JFK. Yeah, starting this “be bold” trip with a flight to NYC on 9/11.

  • New York New York

    11 de setembro de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    I’m on the first, and longest, of two layovers on my 30-hour trip to Delhi, where I’ll acclimate for a few days before heading to Kathmandu.

    I feel overmatched in trying to describe my trip at this moment. It was easier when things were in the theoretical, planning stages. I feel woozy after a fitful sleep and 3:00am alarm to get to the airport, but under that the excitement is building.

    Being in transit is not only physical, with flights, layovers, and time zones, it’s also mental. I’m transiting to a new external reference dimension. Airports and planes are familiar, but very soon many of the languages in my ear will become unusual and opaque. I won’t understand all of the signs and I’ll even have to concentrate to understand English spoken with different accents.

    It sounds disorienting, but this is part of the trip goal. The “surprise me” journey continues!
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  • Arabia

    12 de setembro de 2023, Catar ⋅ ☀️ 100 °F

    Waking up inflight from NYC to Qatar, I look at the flight map. I’m used to seeing that I’m flying above Denver, St. Louis, Chicago, but the cites below now are Luxor, Amman, and Baghdad. I’ve always had a George Bailey interest in geography, but knowing about something is different than experiencing it.

    I never understood how huge the Arabian Penisula is. Crossing the Suez Canal there was still 1,400 miles to go until my next layover in Doha. Saudi Arabia is half the size of the continental US! I’m embarrassed by my naïveté, but it doesn’t blunt my excitement to see in new ways.

    Being embarrassed by what you don’t know keeps you from learning new things. The core of Beginner’s Mind is being open, with a sense of curiosity, and not being afraid of getting things wrong. Being able to laugh at yourself is key to learning. This is a “why” of my trip. I am intentionally putting myself in places and circumstances where I’m likely to embarrass myself, where I won’t know the right way to do things. I’m placing myself at the mercy of others and won’t be Chad, the expert.

    I’m feeling tingles just thinking about it. I know there will be times when it’s overwhelming and I’ll want to be home, but I’ve taken a first step off my front porch and sense that my eyes will never be quite the same.
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  • First Look Delhi

    14 de setembro de 2023, Índia ⋅ ☁️ 95 °F

    My circadian rhythm’s been turned upside down. Noon is now midnight. After a day recovering from 30 hours of traveling, I’m out exploring Delhi.

    For my outing today I eschewed hiring a driver to whisk me to all the tourist spots. Instead, I boarded the subway, challenging myself to push through one wave of confusion after another to get to the central Connaught Place. Delhi was sweltering at 98 degrees F and 70% humidity. Turns out the subway 🚇 is one of the best places to be. Fully air conditioned and cleaner than the LA Metro, the ride was the only point in the day I wasn’t sweating 😅.

    Several helpful young men wanted to practice their English and guide me to high-end tourist traps. I dodged that bullet, but only after one helpful friend took me on a wild tuk-tuk ride to show me the Indian Loom Store - I refused to get out of the tuk-tuk - and then a fancy tea shop, where they wanted to educate me about the tea they sell, inviting me to sit on a deep couch while someone sloooowly made me a free sample - I thanked them but turned and walked out.

    I spent some quiet time in the gardens of a Hindu temple and did my daily meditation in a Buddhist temple next door. A woman in a full burka shepherded her children down the sidewalk out front. I finally made it to Jaipur Open Market in the heart of Connaught Place and then caught a taxi back to the hotel, talking to the son of my Sikh driver, who rode along in the front seat and did an admirable job pitching his dad’s chauffeur-for-hire services.

    I know there are occasional flair-ups, but I was struck by how friendly people are and how all the varied religions coexist in relative peace. I like Delhi.
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  • Welcome to Kathmandu

    16 de setembro de 2023, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Excited and exhausted, I have finally reached Kathmandu, Nepal, the city I will call home for the next four weeks.

    I love the book, Thinking Fast and Slow, which gets into the brain science and psychology of how we spend much of our life on autopilot. We use semi-conscious fast thinking to process information and tasks that seem familiar to things we’ve encountered before. I definitely use fast thinking at airports. I’m a pro going through security. I can do it in my sleep. But that breezy lack of full attention caused me to stress out as I arrived today to fly from Delhi airport. The Indian version of the TSA couldn't care less about full water bottles, but they are real sticklers about placing anything vaguely electronic in separate bins for the X-ray machine. Suddenly I was the guy who didn’t pay attention, tearing through every corner of my carryon to pull out a power-strip, charging cables, and the portable data projector, which had clothes wrapped around it for protection. Sure, you can’t function in life with only slow thinking, doing everything with full attention and analytic consideration, but travel provides a great reminder about the benefits of amping up the mindfulness.

    Landing in Kathmandu was stunning, a huge green valley in the clouds. I’m spending my first couple of nights, before my volunteer posting begins, in the central Thamel district, which is all narrow streets strung with lights and packed with tourist and trekking shops, restaurants and boutique hotels. Very cool.
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  • My found friend, Rakesh.
    Quake-damaged buildings are shored up by neighboring structures.Shrine to the Blue Buddha, who is associated with health and medicine.Kathmandu means "Wood City" and old structures have intricate carved designs.I tasted something from this spice merchant and my eyes watered.Data / phone wire spaghetti.Apparently a rock and mineral merchant.Genisha temple.Dogs roam free and sleep about.Central Dhunbar SquareMarket streets of Thamel.

    Serendipity

    17 de setembro de 2023, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Following a great hotel breakfast, I set out to explore the Thamel district of Kathmandu on my first full day in Nepal. As I wandered I was approached by several people who wanted to steer me toward this or that shop. I politely demurred.

    Then a man started telling me the history of the building I was standing in front of, and somehow referenced some religious significance and suddenly I found myself fully engaged in a conversation about comparative spiritual philosophy. He offered to buy me a chai and we continued our conversation in a local shop.

    My interlocutor, Rakesh, was not a traveling professor, but a shoe repairman who carried his shop in a pack on his back. He told me about a blue Buddha temple I should see and offered to walk me ten minutes down the street to check it out. I was suspicious and kept my guard up but followed him for a walk down the crowded street.

    Rakesh kept making small detours to show me interesting shrines and quake-damaged buildings that would be red tagged in LA, but here were fully in use. He helped me see unique architectural details and shared historical tidbits.

    As we walked and talked I learned that Rakesh was from a lower caste in India and moved to Nepal to live in a slightly less stratified society. He’s had no formal schooling but has taught himself English, history, religion, and architecture, driven by a keen intellect and curiosity. He’s very proud of his four children and showed me pictures of their straight-A report cards.

    In a few hours I saw so much of the city and learned a lot about an evil local official who had clamped down on street vendors, pushing Rakesh and hundreds of others out of their livelihoods.

    To be continued, but check out some of the sights.
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  • Humble Dal - Serendipity Pt2

    17 de setembro de 2023, Nepal ⋅ 🌧 72 °F

    After my unplanned deep dive into Kathmandu, I returned to the hotel for a quick rest, then rejoined my new friend, Rakesh, to travel cross town to see the massive Boundhanath Stupa and accept an invitation to dinner with his family.

    Monks, pilgrims, and tourists all practice devotion by walking in a circle around the stupa, which is a round, dome-shaped structure about the size of a city block crowded by a gold-tipped tower that has colorful prayer flags strung down on every side. I only did one lap.

    I then followed Rakesh through a series of back roads and alleys. My gut told me I could trust him while my analytical James Bond brain was scanning for possible escape routes.

    Rakesh, his wife and their four children live with 49 other families in a warren of 50 concrete block single room connected units. Each home is approximately 15x15 feet square. The closest thing to the layout in America would be a sprawl of storage units.

    All families in the complex share a central toilet facility. Each unit has electricity, but no running water. When the weather’s nice they cook outside on a wood stove, but it was drizzling tonight, so dinner was prepared on a type of camp stove connected to a small fuel tank.

    I was treated like an honored guest. People along the path to their unit stopped to wish me namaste 🙏. Rakesh’s daughter, who is studying for a bachelor degree in science, prepared a delicious dinner of dal (lentil soup), bhat (rice) cooked vegetables, and flatbread. She and I shared our interest in quantum theory and our inability to grasp its underlying mathematics. Rakesh’s wife didn’t speak English and mostly played with a visiting 1-year old niece. His 17-year old son has a significant mental disability but added cheer to the meal with his wide grin. Rakesh feels fortunate that they have been able to move up to this village of concrete units, as they used to live in a nearby village of bamboo units/huts in the dirt, rather than on a cement slab.

    I guess in the past people might have called Rakesh and his family Untouchables, but I experienced a generous and loving family that was working hard to improve its lot in life. I was humbled to be accepted into their home.
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  • Blessed by a stand-in for Vishnu.Pashupathinath Temple is a world heritage site and central to the Teej celebration.Family washes a corpse before cremation while children swim nearby.

    Happy Teej

    18 de setembro de 2023, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Today is a holiday in Nepal, celebrating the Hindu festival of Teej. I heard it was a special women’s festival, and thought that was progressive and empowering, but then I learned it was a day when women fast and go to the temple to pray for the heath and prosperity of their husbands. Ingrained patriarchy is hard to kill.

    Nonetheless, it was fun to see half the women in the city dressed to the nines in sparkling red outfits as they danced and celebrated.

    Some photo highlights include women lined up for their turn in the temple, dancing, and a blessing I received from a Vishnu emissary. I also captured a family washing the corpse of a loved one on the side of the river prior to cremation. Children frolic in the water nearby as an affirmation of life.
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