Logrono to Najera

Well, first a confession: I'm just now emerging from a cranky, hangry phase. That, combined with the fact that Najera is just not as well preserved or charming, has colored my view of this stage. It was long (18 miles). It was vineyards as far as the eye could see, which is lovely but somewhat monotonous (I know, Camino hell!). And we had no pilgrims walking with us because many of our new friends had scheduled rest days in Logrono.

Our midday break was in a charming town called Navarrete (pop. 2,900), where we did as in Spain and partook of a small Radler to speed us on our way. A 16th century Church of the Assumption there was stunningly ornate. Its wooden floors had me wondering why they dared have real votive candles (in addition to electric ones).

We walked three hours from there through Rioja country. Finally re-encountered the Belgian couple who has stayed at many of the same hotels as us and got their names: Bruno and Marie Martin. Also snapped a pic of our Italian friend (who speaks no English), Rogelio.

After arriving very tired and hungry in Najera, we found our accommodations somewhat lacking, the town somewhat ghost-y, and where there was action there was no real food. Hence the hangry spell. Found something to tide us over then picked up pre-packaged cano de lomo (more cured pork) and cheese and fruit for our breakfast and headed back to the *penthouse apartment* that is not anywhere near as nice as it sounds. Two plusses: the hosts provided a free bottle of local wine (variety unknown as they private-labelled it, but plenty decent), and it has a rooftop terrace with a view of the cliffs that are a backdrop of the town.

Crankiness aside, we remain grateful for the chance to see how differently people live--and maybe by the end of the trip we, too, will enjoy four-hour lunches and dinners that don't start till 8 pm!Read more