Leon, Day 2

Toured the Leon Cathedral today and it really is stunning in its scale and amount of detail. It has nearly 1,800 square meters of stained glass windows.

As we stepped out into the cloisters, people were gathering for Las Cantaderas, a traditional ceremony celebrating the end to a mythical practice whereby the Asturian kings annually gave 100 maidens to the Muslim caliphs as payment for something. (Not sure what--I think the tradition is essentially based on ancient disinformation!) This is part of the weekend's whole Fiesta de San Froilan, which had the streets packed yet again today with crowds, processions of ginormous flags and a fair number of bagpipes. (BTW, were you aware of the Celtic/Iberian connection? I wasn't but it's a thing--look it up!)

We popped into a couple other must-sees, minus the tours: the Basilica of San Isidoro, and Casa Boutines by Gaudi. Then we escaped the crowds by snagging a table at Casa Daniel the minute it opened and enjoyed a wonderful, relaxing and filling lunch. It's hard not to eat a lot when lunch and dinner are three-course meals. Good thing we will be walking it off on tomorrow's 15-mile hike to San Martin del Camino.Read more