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Grateful early retiree and 2023 pilgrim Read more North Bethesda, Maryland
  • TravelerCamino Frances
    2
    Day 29–30

    Molinaseca

    October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    A fabulous day, and one of our hardest, too!

    Left at *dawn* (8:50 am) and the sun rose as we walked up the mountains. Clear skies and temps that climbed quickly from 50 to upper 70's. Stopped an hour in for breakfast then kept going till we reached the highest point of the whole trip (5,000 feet above sea level). On our way, we stopped at the Camino icon Cruz de Ferro, where pilgrims leave rocks or other items signifying the reason for their pilgrimage.

    Up was relatively easy. Down was the hard part. A town halfway down the mountain was super charming--we spent an hour+ there to *let the dogs out* (go barefoot ) and refuel with freshly made spinach, feta and pesto crepes and our trusty Radlers! Then more rocky downhill hiking that made us especially thankful for dry weather and hiking poles.

    Glad to be back in towns made of stone and wood (instead of clay) and surrounded by mountains. So, so pretty.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 28–29

    A gradual climb to Rabanal

    October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    A beautiful day up gentle mountains to a quiet, charming village called Rabanal del Camino. Upon arriving, we resisted the urge to check in and instead sat at a recommended cafe and had a good, one-course meal that hit the spot.

    There is a Benedictine monastery run by Germans here that offers a 2-night silent retreat, complete with Gregorian chants, vespers and compline. We aren't staying there but thought it was cool enough to mention in case anyone is planning their own Camino.

    Had a classic regional dish for dinner--Cocido Maragato. Joe and Leo would have loved it. A lot of slow-cooked meats (plus cabbage and chick peas). A bit too much for us but very tasty and glad we tried it.

    Tomorrow is a big day, when we climb to the highest point of our route and then (the hardest part), descend steeply to Molinaseca. Excited for the view we will earn!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 27

    New Scenery + Astorga

    October 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Ahhh, a welcome change of scenery and a beautiful, sunny day to boot.

    Didn’t take a lot of pics myself because my phone is on the fritz. In fact, I’m using MB’s phone to post this and will be relying on her photos going forward. Just hoping my phone can give me five minutes a day until I land at IAD.

    I think we walked about 15 miles, mostly through gentle hills, farms and woodland. Plenty of towns to stop in en route, including Orbigo, with with “one of the longest and best preserved, medieval bridges in Spain, dating from the 13th century,” according to our guidebook.

    Staying tonight in a small city called Astorga, which boasts several churches, a cathedral and a Gaudi building known as the Bishop’s Palace, which is just beautiful--one of our favorite sites so far. Astorga is also the start of an area associated with the Maragato culture, which we will learn more about as we walk.

    Had a lovely b-day meal on the town’s main plaza with MB and Brian (Maine). Excited for the mountains tomorrow!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 26–27

    Nothin' Special Day

    October 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Welp, this was certainly the most unphotogenic, uninteresting walk of the trip. Left Leon and walked an hour through an industrial area and suburbs, then more Meseta along a busy highway till we got to our hotel. Roughly 15 miles total.

    We are staying in another place that is half hotel, half hostal, which exposes you to more pilgrims--a good thing. Lovely backyard with pool and a great breeze blowing.

    Reconnected with Brian from Maine (we dined with him in Sahagun and have seen him other places), and we are sure to see more familiar faces tomorrow night in Astorga. Looking forward to that and to more interesting scenery (and more mountains, soon!) as we leave the Meseta behind us.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 25–27

    Leon, Day 2

    October 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Toured the Leon Cathedral today and it really is stunning in its scale and amount of detail. It has nearly 1,800 square meters of stained glass windows.

    As we stepped out into the cloisters, people were gathering for Las Cantaderas, a traditional ceremony celebrating the end to a mythical practice whereby the Asturian kings annually gave 100 maidens to the Muslim caliphs as payment for something. (Not sure what--I think the tradition is essentially based on ancient disinformation!) This is part of the weekend's whole Fiesta de San Froilan, which had the streets packed yet again today with crowds, processions of ginormous flags and a fair number of bagpipes. (BTW, were you aware of the Celtic/Iberian connection? I wasn't but it's a thing--look it up!)

    We popped into a couple other must-sees, minus the tours: the Basilica of San Isidoro, and Casa Boutines by Gaudi. Then we escaped the crowds by snagging a table at Casa Daniel the minute it opened and enjoyed a wonderful, relaxing and filling lunch. It's hard not to eat a lot when lunch and dinner are three-course meals. Good thing we will be walking it off on tomorrow's 15-mile hike to San Martin del Camino.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 24–26

    Leon

    September 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Ah, finally--we are someplace we get to stay for two nights! And it is a beautiful hotel (also a converted monastery)! Could never get a room this luxurious in a city in US for this little ($135/night, split two ways).

    Walked four hours with just a 20-minute stop. Learned when we got here that yet another festival will be underway tomorrow. We saw a procession tonight and large swathes of people passing by our restaurant where we had dinner, but we haven't figured out what the festival is about.

    Looking forward to seeing the Leon cathedral on the inside tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 23–24

    Mansilla de las Mullas

    September 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Hola, familiares y amigos. Today was just like yesterday as far as distance, views and weather goes.

    Enjoyed seeing some active bodegas (wine cellars built into hillside) as we passed through Reliegos. Arrived in Mansilla in time to check in, enjoy some tapas with Monika (from San Fran) and Barbara (from Nova Scotia) before heading to a three-course lunch at our own hotel: 1) Fried asparagus wrapped in ham; 2) chicken fajita; 3) Greek yogurt with honey and pecans. Still can't get used to the idea that they set a bottle of wine at your table to drink as much or little as you want. All-included price was 15 Euro.

    Eating at 3 is really perfect. It's lunch and dinner in one and you don't have to go to sleep on a full stomach. Help me remember this when I get home!

    We are excited to get to Leon tomorrow for our first two-night stay. Will look for an outfitter store to fix or replace one of my walking poles that randomly broke today and otherwise to restock, refuel and relax.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    1
    Day 22–23

    The truck stop stage

    September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Not many pics. Roadside walking was more of the same yet still very pleasant since it was low 70s, with a clear blue sky and a light breeze.

    One stop along the way was a very large, clean, friendly albergue, where we saw the ladies from Scotland, a guy who has harnessed a golf bag carrier to his hips in order to transport his pack, and an ambulance take away a pilgrim in some kind of distress.

    If we were homesick for the US, tonight might have cured us. We are staying just outside a small town (El Burgo Ranero) at a motel attached to a truck stop with a 24-hour diner on the first floor. Very American vibe. Nice to be able to order up a hearty burger and chips at 3 pm. The town itself is small and plain, with adobe-style clay and brick homes and buildings.

    Ran into Laguna Beach guy again. His name is John. Biking the Camino for the 4th time but following the same stages as walkers to savor things, and also to keep pace with a friend who is jogging the stages as training for a marathon. I'd say most people we meet are doing the Camino for the combination of physical challenge and communal hospitality. Not as many seeking salvation or indulgences😄, but definitely a few working through some grief.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 21–22

    Sahagun

    September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Short day (about 10 miles), ending on the early side in Sahagun.

    Highlights: We hit the half-way mark (geographically) of the Camino Frances. An old Franciscan monastery, now museum, offers half-way compostelas for those who visit, so naturally we paid the entrance fee.

    In an earlier town (San Nicolas), we happened upon an artist of sorts who offered colorful wax stamps in lieu of the usual ink stamp for our pilgrim passports. So, we have two lovely souvenirs from an otherwise uneventful day.

    Enjoyed lunch with Debra and her friend Patty (from Dallas) and officially met another familiar face--Brian, from Portland, Maine, who we will likely see tomorrow as we are both staying at the same place, a hotel near a truck stop!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 20–21

    Walk to Ledigos

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Not much to post. Long stretch of roadside paths with farmland in every direction. Apparently we can expect this for a few more days, which is why some people wish they could skip the Meseta.

    A shorter day, too (14 miles), with just one stop before arriving at our hotel/albergue, where we had a big pizza for lunch, did laundry and are now just hanging. Met a couple different people from the DMV and re-encountered Debra from Dallas, whose husband had to fly home for his father's funeral and will rejoin her in a week or so

    The past couple restaurants we've been to have had cats that come up to your table and beg like a dog.

    Wish I had a pic of a pilgrim who just passed. She is walking the opposite direction doing the Jerusalem Way, from Finisterre to Jerusalem. Just looked it up--it leads "from the end of the world over the heart of Europe to the beginning to Jerusalem to the east, towards sunrise and connects 15 countries and the continents of Europe and Asia with the Holy Land." Length: around 7,500 kilometers. Longest peace and culture path in the world

    She had her dog with her who was carrying his own food and water bottle. Just can't begin to imagine that experience. But she sure was happy and unconcerned to be walking at 6 pm. Wow.    Read more

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