• St Agnes, Perranporth and Home

    13 de noviembre de 2025, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today ended up a bit of a curve ball as I finished the day l driving home for the night with the intention of hitting North Devon for Friday and Saturday.

    It has been the best day for the weather today and I woke up in my little van overlooking Trevaunance Cove as the sun was rising.

    I meandered down to the beach, watching two swimmers float in the sea for their early morning remedy. Inspired but ultimately too cold, I decided it was too early for me and after wandering along the waters edge, I retreated to the warmth and comfort of my van, to wait for the sun to rise further. I snuggled up, read my magazine, drank tea and listened to the birds singing.

    From my van I could see the headland overlooking the cove and two figures basking in the new light of the day. Further inspired and slightly warmer, I donned my swim stuff, grabbed my left over pizza and towel and headed for the coastal path up the side of the cliff. It was wonderful up there and the views went on for ever, but soon enough the sea was calling to me and I descended the path right to the beach. Striped down to my (very summery) swimwear I dived head first into the waves and frolicked about like a sea otter. There were two lads surfing nearby having a wonderful time; their whoops and hollers for waves infectious and carefree.

    Fingers and toes comfortably numb, I headed for dry land and the enticing thoughts of pizza and a coffee from Schooners to warm up. Heavenly. It’s mornings like this that are what is so special about the sea and the coast. Early morning swims or surfs are one of life’s greatest joys.

    Sea time over, I headed back to the van, wrote my diary and relaxed a little more before deciding I should make the most of the weather and head to Perranporth… with a little detour to Finisterre on the way.

    At Perranporth there were a lot of people surfing and a lot of people with dogs. It was quite hectic for a November day but I walked the length of the beach and enjoyed the warmer (slightly) weather.

    With little else left to do and my heart at peace, I packed my bags ready for home and hopefully a shot at North Devon tomorrow
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  • Penryn, Portreath, Towan and St Agnes

    12 de noviembre de 2025, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Today has been far more relaxed but still features the odd cliff car park, windy walk and dubious camper spot.

    Last night, after one too many pints, I decided to stay in the centre of Porthleven right by the harbour and only 50m from the pub… pretty much where I parked before the pub. It was sheltered from the wind and I had a lovely view of boats this morning so not too bad.

    First call of the day was to Penryn for a big breakfast with Kitt and Teeny Al. It was wonderful to see them again and we spent a happy hour chatting about in-laws and weddings over yummy food and coffee. Perfect start to the day.

    With the bad weather still rolling in from the south and a hankering to visit the beaches around Newquay and Padstow, I deviated from the original plan and headed north to a lovely little cliff side car park a mile west of Portreath. The waves on this side of Cornwall are too big for me, but perfect for those that can actually surf, so I took the coastal path over into town to watch the surfers make the most of the storm. It’s always so tantalising to jump in the water even in wet and windy weather, but short of getting naked and scaring (or scarring) all the dog walkers on the beach, I had no means of getting in. Besides I was getting wet enough just standing in the rain! So with dry clothes calling my name, I trudged back to the van, boiled the kettle, put my new snazzy heater into drying mode and settled down with a cup of tea, the sound of John Butler and the view of waves crashing into the shore below. Cliche or what?

    After not too long a chill, I got itchy feet and trusted my gut to head towards Newquay. Despite being a 30 minute drive away, it was just what I needed. The rain was still coming down, so I intended on hitting the shops or a pub to get out of the rain. As always, I parked in the little car park on the harbour wall, overlooking Towan. It was too tempting. There were a few people in the water and the waves were perfect, it was meant to be. It took about 500 years to get my wetsuit on and I was a blind as a bat without my glasses, so this was going to be epic! Board waxed, booties firmly on, glasses definitely off, I trudged to the waters edge with jittery nerves. The sea always soothes straight away and as soon as my portly belly hit the top of my board and my little arms started paddling for their life, I felt completely at ease… if a little out of breath. And what a lush surf, the rain came down as I floated out the back and the perfect lines of waves kept coming. I caught a few, building my confidence and my sense of salty satisfaction.

    Board out and wrestled back onto the top of the van (no mean feat) and wetsuit left in a soggy mess at the bottom of my waterproof bag, I headed to my favourite spot in Cornwall for a pizza and a pint. St Agnes, you are the best.
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  • Pendower, Falmouth and Porthleven

    11 de noviembre de 2025, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    What a crazy start to a short holiday. I parked up last night in pitch black, following suggestions from Park4Night. Warning: if you park up at night, check your surroundings on google maps and try not to park on the top of a cliff when there’s a storm coming in 🫣. Good job my handbrake held!! I thought I would be more at ease when I could see my surroundings but the sheer drop right behind my van was more nerve-wracking when you could see it. It was great view this morning though! Despite being woken up at 2am-4am.

    An early start to the day with a walk along the coast path (at 7am!) before piling back into bed with coffee to watch the rain roll in.

    Coffee quaffed, I headed off in search of things to do in the rain… and ended up in Falmouth. There is a surfing exhibition on at the national maritime museum so I thought I would take a peak. But not before I nipped into Argos for a heater and a lamp, both of which are revolutionary. I have been borrowing Russ’ Jackery but haven’t had a form of heating, so it was a little nippy last night. This thing can plug straight in and heat the little van. What a win!

    So into Falmouth, I firstly decided to hike out to Pendennis headland which was insanely windy and there were some insanely insane people in the water hydrofoiling in the biblical wind. There’s a photo as proof. It was amazing to watch and felt good to have my cobwebs blown away. Following this, I mooched around the shops, spending more than I should… but old antique books are ok right?!?

    Finally I headed to the museum. It didn’t disappoint and I spent a significant amount of time there, eating muffins, drinking tea and perusing boats (and surfboards) of all kinds. Now I’m ending the day in a local pub with a fire burning next to me and a pint of beer in hand. It’s a great little pub. The Ship Inn in Porthleven. I’ll eat soon and then go and find somewhere to park for the night away from the wind.

    Talking of wind, it has been playing havoc with my wee surfboard that has been strapped to my roof. At this rate, it’ll think it’s a bird rather than a board!

    Good: beer, sea, wind, boats and surfboards… oh and the freedom to just be
    Bad: nothing, not even the wind! Maybe the smell of dog poo that I smelt when I was strapping my board down for the 7,000th time. I was so sure it was on my shoe!
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  • Day 16: Santiago to home

    1 de mayo de 2025, España ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Well here we are, back where it all started. I sat here two weeks ago, watching the world go by with my newly made Canadian pilgrim friends, waiting for my bus to Oviedo and the beginning of my Camino.

    It feels good to sit here again and consider my journey: the experiences I have encountered, the friends I have made and the lessons I have learnt.

    The world feels a far less daunting place. It’s not the first time I have stepped outside my comfort zone alone in the big wide world, and again I have experienced humanity, kindness and a profound sense that everything is going to be ok. The wider world is such a beautiful place to explore if you only find the bravery to rid yourself of the patterns and safety of daily life and really dive into it.

    People say that the Camino is a transformational experience, but I’m not sure that I agree. You don’t transform, but rather you just find a deeper and more honest understanding of yourself and in doing so you see a clearer view of the world without the trappings of your everyday life.

    For me the Camino was an extraordinary experience and one that I will never forget. I only hope that I can hold onto all the lessons and remain brave enough to step outside my everyday life and truly see the beauty of the world we live in.
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  • Day 15: Santiago rest day

    30 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    What a day! I’m drunk, happy, and feel utterly complete.

    I had grand intentions of spending the day in a good, touristic Catholic sort of way. But I missed not one, but two Masses because I was drinking. And honestly? I wouldn’t have changed a thing.

    The day began quietly with coffee, fresh orange juice, and toast in a little café nearby. I sat with my book, watching the world go by. A perfect, gentle start to the day, and exactly how I hope to begin tomorrow.

    Once caffeinated, I met Neil to visit the cathedral and hug St James. The experience stirred a mix of emotions, so many contradictions and thoughts about faith, religion, and tradition. Still, it was powerful and moving in its own way.

    Afterwards, Neil and I stopped for lunch and a beer at a local café, where we were soon joined by Lars, Marie, and Pavel, who, to our surprise, turned out to be a judge. We sat for hours, drinking beer, chatting, and watching pilgrims arrive in Santiago. It felt like the sweetest way to pause. Dolce finiete. I’d planned to attend the midday Mass, but lost track of time in conversation.

    Back at the albergue, I took some time to dry my clothes and rest before the evening. That’s when I met Laura from Germany. We shared some laughs, exchanged numbers, and made vague plans to meet up later. As the rain started falling, I headed down to the conservatory, the perfect cosy spot to listen to the rain. There I met Elouan from France and Dora from Croatia. Elouan had walked the Camino del Norte and, coincidentally, had met Lars along the way. They were due to meet that evening, so we all decided to head out together.

    We drank beer, shared tapas, and talked about everything, learning about each other and our stories and lessons from the Camino. Later, Laura also joined us and suggested a nearby bar with live music. After a very merry and very drunk Lars stumbled home, the rest of us made our way there and were greeted by the sounds of Galician musicians and dancers turning a tiny bar into a joyful farewell to Spain.

    Now I’m in bed, a little tipsy and mildly concerned about how I’ll feel tomorrow. But honestly? It was worth every moment.
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  • Day 14: Lavacolla to Santiago

    29 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I don’t really know what to say today, maybe I’m not sure where to start or maybe my mind is so calm there is nothing left to say.

    I wrote a footprint of lessons I learnt from the Camino, so perhaps I could put those here:

    1. Take my time and savour the journey. Even the Camino can start to feel like a conveyor belt with all the pilgrims fast-moving and goal-oriented. Step off when I need to. Walk at my own rhythm and pace. We all arrive in the end, but not everyone takes the time to truly enjoy the path.

    2. Make space for quiet reflection. The silence between steps is often where the deepest truths settle in.

    3. Live with intention. Be conscious in my actions, pause to notice the small details, the sunlight through the trees, a kind gesture, the comfort of a simple meal.

    4. Don’t compare my journey to anyone else’s. Each person walks their own path, shaped by different stories, needs, and reasons. Honour my own.

    5. Expect challenges, they’re part of it. Sometimes, all it takes is a shift in perspective to transform struggle into something meaningful.

    6. Practice forgiveness, both toward others and yourself. None of us are perfect, and we’re all doing our best.

    7. Let go of attachment to things. It’s not about what I carry, it’s about what I discover along the way.

    8. Remember: I am enough. The Camino has shown me that I already have everything I need within myself. I am capable of doing anything.
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  • Day 13: O Pedrouzo to Lavacolla

    28 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today it is not about the distance covered or the elevation gained. I am forcing myself to slow down and take each step consciously. I am pausing to take in my surroundings, absorb all that this walk means and just be.

    I have just walked through a beautiful cathedral of trees, standing incredibly tall and providing dappled sunlight to the floor below. It felt like the original and natural showcase of this trip rather than the church in Santiago at the end. I have just found out it is called Carballeira de San Antón (St Anton’s Oak Grove) although it was full of so many different trees.

    I am now sat on a small bridge over a peaceful river, listening to the birds and the chatter of the passing pilgrims. There are a few Spanish school trips that are excitable and effervescent with the prospect of reaching the end of their walk. They destroy the peace but are also quite fun. As I walked into the woods earlier, they were standing in a circle singing wonderful songs!

    I’m half way in my journey today and I have found a place away from the hubbub and noise of the Camino trail to sit in the dappled shade and just be. It’s weird how difficult that can be even on the Camino as there’s always somewhere to go, something to do or someone to see. At this late stage, the Camino trail has also become quite a conveyor belt of pilgrims, so it’s nice to escape. It’s wonderful to be able to just watch the little things, like the wind blowing through the grass or the sun dancing on the leaves. It’s the ultimate peace and it has maybe taken me this entire walk to truly reach it again.

    Next stop, I’m having a drink and some cake sheltering from the hottest part of the day in the shade of a beautiful little church in Lavacolla. It’s very peaceful but I think I’ve eaten too much! I’m looking forward to getting rid of my bag at the Albergue and going for a wonder around this little piece of heaven.

    I have just arrived at my Albergue for the night and I’m very early, it looks lovely and I’m looking forward to dropping my bag off and relaxing in the sunshine for a while. I rested under the shade of another church earlier where pilgrims wondered passed at leisure. It was fun to sit and watch them all.

    There is no electricity in Spain and so I am sitting in the shade of an apple tree in the Albergue garden, reading my book. I have done some washing by hand and it’s drying on the line in the sunshine. Bellisimo!
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  • Day 12: Arzua to O Pedrouzo

    27 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Distance: 19km (12 miles)
    Elevation gained: 1,500ft
    Emotions: bubbly, full, happy, sunny

    What a great day! I’m sitting in a beautiful garden at a restaurant, basking in the sunshine, with some bubbly music playing in the background. I’ve just finished a delicious three-course pilgrim lunch and feel warm, fuzzy, full, and completely satisfied after a good day’s walk. Dreamy.

    I ended up walking 5 km more than I’d planned today, and now Santiago is just 19 km away! I could technically walk all the way in tomorrow, but I think I’ll stick to my original plan, heading to Lavacolla, just 9 km away so I can walk the final stretch into Santiago with some of the Primitivo group. Half the group will arrive tomorrow, and the rest of us on Tuesday. That evening, we’ll have a big farewell dinner. It will be the last time we’ll all be together and will likely be pretty emotional.

    I have already had a few emotional moments yesterday and today. Some tears of joy and disbelief at everything I’ve achieved, and some of sadness, knowing I can’t share this journey with everyone I love.

    My knees ache and my body is tired, but my spirit feels full. This experience has replenished something, and I’m starting to understand just how momentous this journey truly is.

    Here’s to these next few, precious days!
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  • Day 11: Melide to Arzua

    26 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Distance: 14km (8.5miles) - extra 40 km by bus
    Elevation: 1,350ft
    Emotions: warm, sleepy, ok

    Today was a big test for my knees and I’m relieved to say, I passed. It’s still painful, especially on the descents, but I think I’ll be able to walk all the way to Santiago from here. I’ve mapped out two more days of about 14 km each, followed by a final 10 km day to walk into the city, hopefully alongside the Primitivo group.

    This part of the Camino feels so different now. The Primitivo has merged with several other routes coming in from the east, and suddenly the path is busy with stalls, trinket shops, and even Camino volunteers in high-vis jackets guiding the way. After the quiet solitude of the Primitivo, it’s been a bit of a jolt, but it’s still part of the journey, and no less meaningful for it.

    I’m walking alone again after jumping ahead to Melide (though Luca, Giorgio, Alessandro, and Pavel aren’t far behind). Despite the crowds, I’ve found a sense of calm solitude. Once you leave the bigger towns behind, the noise falls away and you’re left with the gentle sounds of birds and streams. Today, I tucked in my headphones and walked with Einaudi’s music as my companion, tuning out the world around me and sinking into the rhythm of the trail.

    During today’s walk, I stopped at a small church to rest. It was wonderfully peaceful, offering a quiet pocket of reflection away from the crowds and the heat of the afternoon. Just sitting there, surrounded by cool stone walls and silence, felt like a gift in the middle of the journey.

    I feel buoyant at the thought of walking the final 40 km into Santiago. It’ll be slow, but I’ll get there.

    There’s probably more I should say, but for now, I’m going to rest. Maybe I’ll write again later.

    —-

    So I treated myself to a little solo date at a swanky restaurant, indulging in steak, red wine, tiramisu, and coffee. It cost a bit more than the usual €13 pilgrim menu, but it was the perfect way to end the day. I feel thoroughly spoiled and honestly, I wouldn’t have it any other way.

    Tonight I am tucked up in a little bunk pod with a window all to myself. Opposite me is Erin, a Canadian who has been running the Camino Francés from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (780km). She began on 27 March and will run the remaining 40km in to Santiago tomorrow, exactly a month after she started on 27 April. She’s very inspiring and quite the athlete. She’s also really lovely and very chatty.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 10: Lugo rest day

    25 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Distance: 0km
    Elevation gain: 0ft
    Emotions: frustrated, apprehensive, sore

    Today has been a tough lesson!

    It’s strange how pain can shift your entire perspective. I’ve always wanted more from my body, wishing to be slimmer, fitter, stronger. But today, I’ve been reminded to appreciate what I already have: a body that moves, carries me, and has kept me healthy until now. I took it for granted that I could walk for hours each day without a second thought. But today, I’m grounded, stuck in bed, hoping the ache in my knees fades by tomorrow. It’s humbling. And oddly, it has made my appreciate myself more.

    I love my body for carrying me through this walk and through all the other wild, wonderful things I’ve thrown at it over the years. So I think it deserves more gratitude and care. That starts with real rest today, and maybe (if it comes to it) swallowing my pride and catching a bus tomorrow. Fortunately, the Spanish MotoGP kicks off today, so at least I’ve got some high-speed entertainment to keep my spirits up.

    I did go out this morning, which was probably a little naughty as my knees protested the entire way! I visited Lugo Cathedral, where I bumped into Neil, so we meandered around slowly. It’s a beautiful inspiring place, but you can’t help wonder at the wealth and splendour of the Catholic religion. In comparison to the quiet and humble pilgrims that visit. I snuck some cheeky photos before we headed off for a coffee at a lovely patisserie with the yummiest coffee and pastries. As we were leaving, we bumped into Lars, who was on a mission to find nail scissors. It’s such a joy how naturally time flows with these lovely people. There’s never any awkwardness or doubt, just a warm certainty that when you see each other, it’ll be met with a smile. These friendships are simple, safe, and effortlessly comforting.

    After my little jaunt into town, I hobbled back to the hostel, buying some new baggy trousers on the way 😇 and got back into bed.

    I will try to head out again later for something to eat but I won’t go far.
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  • Day 9: O Cadavo to Lugo

    24 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Distance: 30km (18miles)
    Elevation gained: 2,100ft
    Emotions: exhausted

    I am lying on my bunk, where I have been for the last 2 hours, resting. Today has been the hardest day by far, despite the relatively low elevation. I think everyone found it hard, I was in a great deal of pain thanks to my worn out knees.

    The heat climbed slowly but continuously throughout the day, and I think each of us kept counting down the kms to this beautiful city. Luckily for me, I caught up with Georgio, Marie and Alesandro just outside the city limits and their high spirits and thirst for life kept me going for the remaining distance until I could take a cold shower and collapse on my bed before having to run a few errands.

    It wasn’t all bad today though and I started the morning early in high spirits. The light was slowly ascending over the horizon spreading beautiful colours across the surrounding countryside and I had great faith that it was going to be a good one. The mountains were replaced by rolling hills and meadows with eucalyptus and pine trees spread neatly amongst the patchwork of fields.

    Despite the pain in my knees, I kept my chin up and kept going. Very very glad for a rest day tomorrow though!
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  • Day 8: Fonsagrada to O Cadavo

    23 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Distance: 24km (15miles)
    Elevation gained: 2,950ft
    Emotions: tipsy, sore, tired, at peace, missing Patch

    Today I received an email from work to say that I can extend my holiday, therefore allowing me to reach Santiago, rather than stop at Lugo. I was incredibly excited to hear this, and immediately rang my dad.

    It’s an opportunity of a lifetime to walk over 350km to a common destination, but it comes with its own hardships. For me, the biggest hardship is missing Patch, I’m determined to do it and he is incredibly supportive despite missing me, but I also miss him, very much. But, I just have to keep thinking that I will see him soon and we have an entire lifetime together.

    So, I am currently lying on my bed, the sun warming my toes as I wait for dinner. It has been an unexpectedly hard day today with some tough climbs and hot weather, but it’s lovely to feel the sun on my (slightly sunburnt) skin. My knee is still hurting and now the other one has begun to cause me problems, but Lars has suggested I take anti-inflammatories to prevent it getting worse.

    I started very early this morning, just before dawn. Sophie had told me this was the best time to walk and so I crawled out of my very creaky bunk at 6.45 to get ready and it was worth it. The dawn chorus accompanied me out of town and the dusty light across the valley created a calming aurora. The best way to start the day.

    The walk traversed woodlands and rolling hills, overlooking beautiful verdant countryside topped with spinning wind turbines (owned by EDP Renewables - for my colleagues). The sun had dried the out some of the path, which became sandier as we neared O Cadavo. We are leaving the mountains now, heading ever westwards towards our final destination. Way markers signposted our route, sharing the ever decreasing distance to Santiago, 152… 148… 141… 135… 132… tiny steps eating away at the many many km’s.

    With my new timeframe, I have also decided to have a rest day in Lugo, as it’s meant to be a beautiful walled Roman town. So I will have a chance to rest my weary knees and maybe buy some shorts!

    First a 30km hike to get there tomorrow! Wish me luck.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 7: Grandas de Salime to Fonsagrada

    22 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Distance: 24km (15 miles)
    Elevation gain: 3,000ft
    Emotions: cared for, clean, indecisive

    I’m writing much later tonight as I have had a full day of walking with my new Camino family. It was the first day of sunshine, but I was still blessed with some early morning fog as I climbed out of Grandas. Keeping the soaring temperatures at bay.

    The further I walked the warmer it got and the more beautiful the scenery became. It was a glorious day, but I feel like I didn’t appreciate it enough, as I tempered my emotions due to an incredibly painful knee. My spirits were kept high by Flóra, Marie, Georgio, Alesandro, Aud, Neil, Pavel and the newest member of our family, Lars. Once we reached our Albergue, we collected food together and Alesandro cooked for us again. We also all did our own errands: I found a pharmacy where I bought a knee brace, Marie and I did some washing, Neil searched for wine and unfortunately Pavel went to the doctor after being bitten by a dog 😬

    My day has also been plagued by uncertainty as I try to decide whether to stay on the Camino all the way to Santiago, rather than leave early at Lugo, I will decide tomorrow based on cost, work and my beloved knee.

    So goodnight again and Buen Camino!
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  • Day 6: Grandas de Salime

    21 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    I don’t normally write in the evening, but tonight felt so special that I thought I should. It has been a wonderful evening full of stories and laughter with a newly found pilgrim family.

    After relaxing in my room, I went downstairs for a beer, to find Pavel sat writing his diary. I spent some time talking with him and watching the locals play a card game. Pavel told me that one of the other pilgrims we know, Jerry from Canada, was staying in an Albergue close by. It was nice to hear that he had made it over the mountain. We shared photos and regaled stories of our individual pilgrimages so far. Whilst we were sat there two other pilgrims that we know, Georgio and Alesandro from Italy, invited us for dinner at the other Albergue in the town.

    I wandered down there later on and was met by Laura from Slovenia, Maria from Holland, Georgio and Alessandro from Italy, Aude from France and another guy from Germany. We drank wine and ate yummy food whilst trying to converse in broken English. It was a wonderful carefree evening of shared moments and common journeys.

    Just as the day was ending, I wandered back to my hotel, watching the sky darken and listening to locals laugh with one another. It was a peaceful walk and I had a beaming smile on my face as I tipsily made my way back to my room.

    Now I’m snuggled up and looking forward to my journey tomorrow, either alone or with friends.
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  • Day 6: La Mesa to Grandas de Salime

    21 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Distance: 17.8km (11 miles)
    Elevation gain: 2,300ft
    Emotions: frustrated, sore but still cheery

    Today was supposed to be an easy bimble over the hill, down to the reservoir and then back up the other side to Grandas De Salime. Unfortunately, it was slightly more challenging as all the pain I had believed I was immune too, finally hit me. My knee ached, my feet felt bruised and the ominous blisters began to appear. But that was not going to get me down.

    What did get me down, however, was the insane decent that traversed down the side of the hill to the reservoir below. I have never been on such a brutal slope, aggravating my knee and in turn me. The views that might have distracted me were bathed in cloud so I was left between damp clouds, scree slopes and a dodgy knee. We made quite the party.

    As I neared the base of the slope, I stopped and had a word with myself. I couldn’t get despondent when the path didn’t go where I wanted, I would just have to adjust my perspective and keep going. It helped enormously, or it might have been that I had just dropped below the cloud line.

    Once at the very bottom, I then began the satisfying climb back up the other side. This was a lovely ascent, with a perfect gradient, beautiful views to distract and a lovely canopy of green overhead.

    I walked the last few kms with Jenny and Christina, two German teachers who are refreshing to spend time with. They are off home today though so I said a brief goodbye before finding my accommodation, where I now relax.

    Tonight I am in an actual hotel, overlooking the valley to the Albergue on the other side. It’s very very nice and I’ve just had a rainfall shower before I go and find some dinner this evening. My spirits have lifted and I look forward to the challenge of the next few days as I leave the mountains and head closer to Lugo.
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  • Day 5: Colinas de Arriba to La Mesa

    20 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Distance: 29km (18miles)
    Elevation gain: 3,670ft
    Emotions: exhausted, proud of my achievement

    What a day!? I arrived at my Albergue at 4pm, which is very late for me, but Im finally lying on my bed (in my own room) after having a shower and some chocolate to keep my energy up.

    Today was the formidable Hospitales route, up over El Picu Cimeiru and Pico de Freitas. It’s the highest part of the Camino and is well known for its beautiful views but vicious weather. I had stayed in the Albergue with Maria from Holland again, so we decided to tackle the route together. Although it was frustratingly slow at times, it was a good day to spend in the company of another pilgrim, as we ended up tackling longer distances, steeper gradients and colder weather.

    The climb up from Colinas de Arriba was short and steep, but easier than anticipated and we were blessed with incredible views over the valleys below as the sun rose. We stopped often to take in the glorious panoramas and were both in good spirits. The route meandered over the mountain ridge, providing epic scenery, but it wasn’t too long before the clouds blew in and stayed. We became quieter as the route became slightly more hostile and eerie, but we kept each others spirits up and kept putting one foot in front of the other. It was a challenge but we took it in our stride, literally, and reached the other side,where the views reappeared as we descended back below the cloud line.

    From there, we hiked through woodland, moorland and farmland, crossing ribbons of tarmac and traversing through small unoccupied villages. The further we ventured, the wetter it got, so Maria decided to stop for a warm coffee and to rest her legs. But I was warm, comfortable, and happy in myself and the rain, so I continued to plod along for the remaining 5km to my Albergue.

    It was a quiet day today with fewer pilgrims taking on the mischievous weather, but I am proud of what we achieved and am looking forward to food and bed, where I will probably dream of walking.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 4: Tineo to Colinas de Arriba

    19 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Distance: 23km (14miles)
    Elevation gain: 2,500ft
    Emotions: weary, clean, exhilarated, content

    I’m sitting in the bar of my albergue, sipping a beer and watching the rain fall outside. I’ve just had a hot shower and changed into clean, freshly washed clothes. Bliss!

    Today was a slower day, relaxing into a more sociable pace and talking with those I met on my journey. Most of my time, I walked with Jerry, an inspiring 79 year old Canadian who escaped communism in Czechoslovakia in the 50’s. He was really wonderful to speak to and provided a fantastic new perspective to life and the importance of living it as well as possible.

    I also reunited with Maria from Holland, who’s staying in the same albergue again tonight. We’d had quite the evening yesterday, laughing and getting tipsy on Asturian cider with Neil and Pavel, then sprinting back to our rooms through the rain. It was lighthearted and full of joy, the kind of night that feels timeless.

    Today was harder than I was anticipating… not because of the hangover, but because my muscles started to protest. Things started off beautifully, the sun shining over gorgeous views, but by afternoon, my butt muscles were protesting with every step… of all the things!!

    I also had my first day in Camino rain! It’s actually quite fun as you hide inside your giant poncho! I also passed the sign for the Hospitales (mountain) route today, where the trail splits into two. It was a big moment for me on the journey, and was quite emotional! I am staying in an Albergue close to where the route splits and, if the weather holds, I’ll take on the monumental climb into the mountains tomorrow morning. It’s one of the toughest sections, but I’m ready to try.

    For now, I’m going to enjoy this beer and rest before dinner. Despite the late start and slower pace, I was the first to arrive today. Funny how the Camino works like that.
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  • Day 3: Casazorrina to Tineo

    18 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Distance: 24km (15miles)
    Elevation gain: 3,100ft
    Emotions: tired but happy after another glorious day

    After a good breakfast I set off towards the ominous 8km long climb that would take me from 150m to almost 800m. It wasn’t the easiest thing I have ever done, but it was certainly one of the most beautiful. I set off alone but met lots of lovely people on the way.

    The trail wound through dense woodland along the valley’s edge, slowly revealing glimpses of the open mountains above. Eventually, the trees gave way to wide skies (with sunshine one moment and rain the next) as I reached the higher ground. I was genuinely surprised it didn’t destroy me, but still, I practically cheered when I reached the summit.

    From there, the rest of the day unfolded gently. I wandered through small towns, stopping here and there for a coffee or a Fanta, just soaking it all in.

    I also managed to find myself a walking stick, who I have christened Shmoo (to go with Schmow my rucksack). I was unable to buy any hiking poles in Oviedo due to Easter, but Shmoo was in a hedge close to my footpath today. He makes hills a lot easier and I only wish I had found him earlier!

    Today felt defined by the people I met. Pavel, who I ran into yesterday, arrived at the albergue not long ago. Along the trail, I also crossed paths with Neil, Florence, and Huel, all fellow travelers, each moving through the landscape at their own pace.

    Time for a stretch, looking out over the view before dinner.
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  • Day 2: Cornellana to Casazorrina

    17 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Distance: 10km-ish (day total 20km / 12.5 miles)
    Emotions: satisfied, tired and a little nervous

    I’m now settled into my lovely albergue for the night, resting in a bright, peaceful room before dinner. I’ll definitely sleep well after today’s walk: 12.5 miles with an elevation gain of 2,500 feet. That said, I’m feeling a bit nervous about tomorrow’s hike (15 miles and 3,400 feet of elevation). I just need to pace myself and be kind to my joints.

    But looking back to this afternoon, things slowed down beautifully after the excitement of the morning. The trail wound gently through quiet woodland, with sunlight filtering through the branches. Just as I started to fade, I stumbled upon a small river, perfect for soaking my feet and splashing some cold water on my face. It was exactly what I needed.

    It’s been a wonderful first day, peaceful and grounding. I’ve already met some fellow pilgrims. Estrid, from Holland, who is heading back to Grado tomorrow to continue her trek.

    Now off for some dinner! Buen Camino!
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  • Day 2: Oviedo to Cornellana

    17 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Distance: 38km (cheated - only walked 10km)
    Emotion: content, excited, emotional - all of it!

    I am sat having lunch in the sun! ☀️ … the sun!!!! After walking over half way to my destination. The walk so far has been beautiful, in so many ways.

    Before leaving Oviedo this morning (by bus), I stopped back at the Cathedral to pick up my Pilgrim Credentials. I’m not particularly religious, but it was unexpectedly emotional. Maybe it was the symbolism of beginning this journey, or just the overwhelming sense of peace at finally being here. Either way, I nearly had an embarrassing moment tearing up while the poor lady asked where I was from.

    I’ll skip the bus ride to Grado, but once I arrived, the real walking began… my first steps on the Camino de Santiago. It started with an immediate uphill climb. And then more uphill. And more. It was a fast learning curve, but the effort was rewarded with stunning views and kind locals calling out “Buen Camino!”Once at the top of my (pretty small) summit, I exclaimed to the heavens that I had made it and started down the other side… instantly getting a stitch.

    Since then, it has been quite smooth going and quite the adventure. I have met a man walking his horse, a group of guys from Mexico cycling the Camino, one of which decided to dive head first down a vertical drop off. He is called Javier and after I ran after his friends to get him some help, cycled after to me to say thank you.

    So that’s the beginning of my trip. My feet are starting to hurt but that’s nothing compared to the experience so far.
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  • Day 1: Madrid to Oviedo

    16 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Distance: 450km
    Emotions: Wired and tired

    I am finally here! And after attempting to sleep in a broom closet for the past 20minutes I have finally found my room.

    As the bus rolled into the Picos, the sun was just setting. I’d forgotten how massive those mountains are, seeing them again has made me feel tiny, especially knowing I’ll be crossing some of them in the days ahead. They’re stunning and deeply inspiring.

    Right now, though, I’m running on fumes. It’s incredibly late, and I didn’t manage any sleep on the journey. Still, that hasn’t dampened my spirits. I walked through Oviedo from the bus station, and the city’s lively nightlife gave me a boost. I am also staying directly opposite the Catedral de San Sebastián and the official start of the Primitive Camino route.

    I’m so excited for tomorrow… which technically begins in less than an hour. Time for some much-needed sleep!
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  • Day 1: Devon to Madrid

    16 de abril de 2025, España ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Distance: long way
    Emotion: tired and tipsy

    I am sat in Madrid airport with a beer in hand, watching the arrival lounge and waiting for my bus which won’t leave for another 3 hours. I’m quite content and possibly a little tipsy.

    Unfortunately it seems the Spanish trains stop selling tickets when they run out of seats. I think they sold out a while ago. I sensibly bought my train ticket back on Saturday and trundled over to the bus terminal praying they had a space on a bus. Success! So, here I am watching the world go by sipping a Mahou.

    I have already met my first Camino friends, two Canadian ladies, Monique and Tanya. They missed their plane and so are also doing the last leg to
    San Sebastián by bus. They’re lovely and have just found me again so I’ll sign off and write again later.

    ——-

    Finally on the bus and heading north! It’s great to get moving and who knew coach journeys could be so damn comfy. I even have a little TV, although not sure it works 🧐
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  • Loop: Vielha to Col d’Aspin

    11 de octubre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today was all about Col hunting and boy did we succeed, 4 ticked off the list, 2 of which we did twice… because we had too to get back to Vielha. The other bonus was that most, if not all of them were Tour de France routes which made Chez happy.

    The day started off not so great, with a massive screw in my tyre, but Chez came to the rescue with a tyre repair kit and the knowledge to use it. I also went for a lovely little walk in the woods which made me happy. Tyre bunged and inflated, coffee imbibed and the sun up and off we went for an epic day hunting for mountains!

    The photos speak for themselves but he passes we did were:
    Col d’Aspin
    La Hourquette d'Ancizan
    Col de Peyresourde
    Col du Portillon

    Autumnal wooded hillsides, gorgeous vistas, epic hairpins, daredevil drops and some damn good sorbet. Dreamy!!

    Oh and we ended up in France, love France’

    Good: the whole damn day
    Bad: nadda
    Roads: N230, N141, D618A, D618, D918, D113
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  • Loop: Vielha to La Pobla de Segur

    10 de octubre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Big loop today, taking in as much of the Pyrenees as possible before thinking about our journey back to port and the boat home.

    We had to do the N260, the most famous of roads in the Pyrenees but for us the best road was at the very end on the C13 and C28. Neither of us were particularly on point today, Chezs tyres weren’t great and I was tired after a night of bad sleep, but all excuses aside it was still a glorious day on the bikes. The BMW didn’t fail to impress as always and it also got a lot of attention from other riders. She gets a lot of attention, from French riders in their 80’s to young Spanish teenagers and middle aged off road crazies. Spain doesn’t fail to spoil us with friendly people, yummy food and glorious roads and scenery.

    Our final stop was the top of a mountain pass with the sun going down over the mountains casting long shadows in the valley bottom below, couple that with some epic hairpins to get there and we were happy bunnies.

    We’re now having burgers at a local burger joint before an early night ahead of a search for mountain passes tomorrow. Night night!

    Good: brilliant locals
    Bad: it was very very hot today
    Roads: N230, N260, A1605, C13, C28
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  • Unduès-Pintano to Viehla

    8 de octubre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Easy day today up the N230 to Viehla. After a full week of riding and almost 400miles yesterday, we needed a bit of a break and tomorrow is a day off the bikes to relax, get our energy levels back up and do some well needed washing!

    As soon as we started the day we realised that the Pyrenees is the place to be for bikers! I think they just tell the Brits to go to the Picos so the Spanish can have the Pyrenees to themselves. 90% of the hundreds of bikers we saw have been Spanish and the other 10% were French. What a winner! The roads surpassed the Picos, even in the first day and we only went on the N230! They were mostly bigger tourers, as always but we also saw many more sports bikes and larger groups going out for big rides. I guess the fact it was Sunday might have skewed our figures but we’ll see on Tuesday when we hit the road again. Until then, we’re off to sleep! Ciao for now!!
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  • Picos to Pyrenees

    7 de octubre de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    375miles, 6hours, 4 fuel stops and only 2 red bull cans (albeit the big ones) and we are in the Pyrenees, or just outside it.

    What a day?! The weather was scorching as we headed east and it was like riding into a hairdryer but the incredible challenge made it feel brilliant! Each time we stopped, we filled up with fuel, had a red bull or a snack, smoked a cigarette and then jumped back on the bikes. We kept each other going with random chatter through the intercoms and it didn’t get too challenging at any one point.

    The fun began when we closed in on our destination! The place I had chosen was a little ancient village just off the beaten track, I wasn’t aware quite how far off it was so when we hit gravel, we were pretty shocked! Sports bikes and gravel aren’t the greatest combo but if Teapot one could go round the world on a gixxer, we could battle a mile of gravel, and ruts! The view after made it all worth it, as the sun went down it painted the sky a glorious pink and we sat by an old church and just took in the peace and quiet. Our hotel for the night is a little bar in the local town where we sank a couple of beers, ate a lovely dinner and said goodnight to a brilliant day!

    Good: managing 375 miles and that glorious sunset
    Bad: hairdryer weather
    Roads: the one into Undués-Pintano (A2602)
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