• Day 16: Santiago to home

      1. maj, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Well here we are, back where it all started. I sat here two weeks ago, watching the world go by with my newly made Canadian pilgrim friends, waiting for my bus to Oviedo and the beginning of my Camino.

      It feels good to sit here again and consider my journey: the experiences I have encountered, the friends I have made and the lessons I have learnt.

      The world feels a far less daunting place. It’s not the first time I have stepped outside my comfort zone alone in the big wide world, and again I have experienced humanity, kindness and a profound sense that everything is going to be ok. The wider world is such a beautiful place to explore if you only find the bravery to rid yourself of the patterns and safety of daily life and really dive into it.

      People say that the Camino is a transformational experience, but I’m not sure that I agree. You don’t transform, but rather you just find a deeper and more honest understanding of yourself and in doing so you see a clearer view of the world without the trappings of your everyday life.

      For me the Camino was an extraordinary experience and one that I will never forget. I only hope that I can hold onto all the lessons and remain brave enough to step outside my everyday life and truly see the beauty of the world we live in.
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    • Day 15: Santiago rest day

      30. april, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      What a day! I’m drunk, happy, and feel utterly complete.

      I had grand intentions of spending the day in a good, touristic Catholic sort of way. But I missed not one, but two Masses because I was drinking. And honestly? I wouldn’t have changed a thing.

      The day began quietly with coffee, fresh orange juice, and toast in a little café nearby. I sat with my book, watching the world go by. A perfect, gentle start to the day, and exactly how I hope to begin tomorrow.

      Once caffeinated, I met Neil to visit the cathedral and hug St James. The experience stirred a mix of emotions, so many contradictions and thoughts about faith, religion, and tradition. Still, it was powerful and moving in its own way.

      Afterwards, Neil and I stopped for lunch and a beer at a local café, where we were soon joined by Lars, Marie, and Pavel, who, to our surprise, turned out to be a judge. We sat for hours, drinking beer, chatting, and watching pilgrims arrive in Santiago. It felt like the sweetest way to pause. Dolce finiete. I’d planned to attend the midday Mass, but lost track of time in conversation.

      Back at the albergue, I took some time to dry my clothes and rest before the evening. That’s when I met Laura from Germany. We shared some laughs, exchanged numbers, and made vague plans to meet up later. As the rain started falling, I headed down to the conservatory, the perfect cosy spot to listen to the rain. There I met Elouan from France and Dora from Croatia. Elouan had walked the Camino del Norte and, coincidentally, had met Lars along the way. They were due to meet that evening, so we all decided to head out together.

      We drank beer, shared tapas, and talked about everything, learning about each other and our stories and lessons from the Camino. Later, Laura also joined us and suggested a nearby bar with live music. After a very merry and very drunk Lars stumbled home, the rest of us made our way there and were greeted by the sounds of Galician musicians and dancers turning a tiny bar into a joyful farewell to Spain.

      Now I’m in bed, a little tipsy and mildly concerned about how I’ll feel tomorrow. But honestly? It was worth every moment.
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    • Day 14: Lavacolla to Santiago

      29. april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      I don’t really know what to say today, maybe I’m not sure where to start or maybe my mind is so calm there is nothing left to say.

      I wrote a footprint of lessons I learnt from the Camino, so perhaps I could put those here:

      1. Take my time and savour the journey. Even the Camino can start to feel like a conveyor belt with all the pilgrims fast-moving and goal-oriented. Step off when I need to. Walk at my own rhythm and pace. We all arrive in the end, but not everyone takes the time to truly enjoy the path.

      2. Make space for quiet reflection. The silence between steps is often where the deepest truths settle in.

      3. Live with intention. Be conscious in my actions, pause to notice the small details, the sunlight through the trees, a kind gesture, the comfort of a simple meal.

      4. Don’t compare my journey to anyone else’s. Each person walks their own path, shaped by different stories, needs, and reasons. Honour my own.

      5. Expect challenges, they’re part of it. Sometimes, all it takes is a shift in perspective to transform struggle into something meaningful.

      6. Practice forgiveness, both toward others and yourself. None of us are perfect, and we’re all doing our best.

      7. Let go of attachment to things. It’s not about what I carry, it’s about what I discover along the way.

      8. Remember: I am enough. The Camino has shown me that I already have everything I need within myself. I am capable of doing anything.
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    • Day 13: O Pedrouzo to Lavacolla

      28. april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Today it is not about the distance covered or the elevation gained. I am forcing myself to slow down and take each step consciously. I am pausing to take in my surroundings, absorb all that this walk means and just be.

      I have just walked through a beautiful cathedral of trees, standing incredibly tall and providing dappled sunlight to the floor below. It felt like the original and natural showcase of this trip rather than the church in Santiago at the end. I have just found out it is called Carballeira de San Antón (St Anton’s Oak Grove) although it was full of so many different trees.

      I am now sat on a small bridge over a peaceful river, listening to the birds and the chatter of the passing pilgrims. There are a few Spanish school trips that are excitable and effervescent with the prospect of reaching the end of their walk. They destroy the peace but are also quite fun. As I walked into the woods earlier, they were standing in a circle singing wonderful songs!

      I’m half way in my journey today and I have found a place away from the hubbub and noise of the Camino trail to sit in the dappled shade and just be. It’s weird how difficult that can be even on the Camino as there’s always somewhere to go, something to do or someone to see. At this late stage, the Camino trail has also become quite a conveyor belt of pilgrims, so it’s nice to escape. It’s wonderful to be able to just watch the little things, like the wind blowing through the grass or the sun dancing on the leaves. It’s the ultimate peace and it has maybe taken me this entire walk to truly reach it again.

      Next stop, I’m having a drink and some cake sheltering from the hottest part of the day in the shade of a beautiful little church in Lavacolla. It’s very peaceful but I think I’ve eaten too much! I’m looking forward to getting rid of my bag at the Albergue and going for a wonder around this little piece of heaven.

      I have just arrived at my Albergue for the night and I’m very early, it looks lovely and I’m looking forward to dropping my bag off and relaxing in the sunshine for a while. I rested under the shade of another church earlier where pilgrims wondered passed at leisure. It was fun to sit and watch them all.

      There is no electricity in Spain and so I am sitting in the shade of an apple tree in the Albergue garden, reading my book. I have done some washing by hand and it’s drying on the line in the sunshine. Bellisimo!
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    • Day 12: Arzua to O Pedrouzo

      27. april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Distance: 19km (12 miles)
      Elevation gained: 1,500ft
      Emotions: bubbly, full, happy, sunny

      What a great day! I’m sitting in a beautiful garden at a restaurant, basking in the sunshine, with some bubbly music playing in the background. I’ve just finished a delicious three-course pilgrim lunch and feel warm, fuzzy, full, and completely satisfied after a good day’s walk. Dreamy.

      I ended up walking 5 km more than I’d planned today, and now Santiago is just 19 km away! I could technically walk all the way in tomorrow, but I think I’ll stick to my original plan, heading to Lavacolla, just 9 km away so I can walk the final stretch into Santiago with some of the Primitivo group. Half the group will arrive tomorrow, and the rest of us on Tuesday. That evening, we’ll have a big farewell dinner. It will be the last time we’ll all be together and will likely be pretty emotional.

      I have already had a few emotional moments yesterday and today. Some tears of joy and disbelief at everything I’ve achieved, and some of sadness, knowing I can’t share this journey with everyone I love.

      My knees ache and my body is tired, but my spirit feels full. This experience has replenished something, and I’m starting to understand just how momentous this journey truly is.

      Here’s to these next few, precious days!
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    • Day 11: Melide to Arzua

      26. april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Distance: 14km (8.5miles) - extra 40 km by bus
      Elevation: 1,350ft
      Emotions: warm, sleepy, ok

      Today was a big test for my knees and I’m relieved to say, I passed. It’s still painful, especially on the descents, but I think I’ll be able to walk all the way to Santiago from here. I’ve mapped out two more days of about 14 km each, followed by a final 10 km day to walk into the city, hopefully alongside the Primitivo group.

      This part of the Camino feels so different now. The Primitivo has merged with several other routes coming in from the east, and suddenly the path is busy with stalls, trinket shops, and even Camino volunteers in high-vis jackets guiding the way. After the quiet solitude of the Primitivo, it’s been a bit of a jolt, but it’s still part of the journey, and no less meaningful for it.

      I’m walking alone again after jumping ahead to Melide (though Luca, Giorgio, Alessandro, and Pavel aren’t far behind). Despite the crowds, I’ve found a sense of calm solitude. Once you leave the bigger towns behind, the noise falls away and you’re left with the gentle sounds of birds and streams. Today, I tucked in my headphones and walked with Einaudi’s music as my companion, tuning out the world around me and sinking into the rhythm of the trail.

      During today’s walk, I stopped at a small church to rest. It was wonderfully peaceful, offering a quiet pocket of reflection away from the crowds and the heat of the afternoon. Just sitting there, surrounded by cool stone walls and silence, felt like a gift in the middle of the journey.

      I feel buoyant at the thought of walking the final 40 km into Santiago. It’ll be slow, but I’ll get there.

      There’s probably more I should say, but for now, I’m going to rest. Maybe I’ll write again later.

      —-

      So I treated myself to a little solo date at a swanky restaurant, indulging in steak, red wine, tiramisu, and coffee. It cost a bit more than the usual €13 pilgrim menu, but it was the perfect way to end the day. I feel thoroughly spoiled and honestly, I wouldn’t have it any other way.

      Tonight I am tucked up in a little bunk pod with a window all to myself. Opposite me is Erin, a Canadian who has been running the Camino Francés from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (780km). She began on 27 March and will run the remaining 40km in to Santiago tomorrow, exactly a month after she started on 27 April. She’s very inspiring and quite the athlete. She’s also really lovely and very chatty.

      Buen Camino!
      Læs mere

    • Day 10: Lugo rest day

      25. april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Distance: 0km
      Elevation gain: 0ft
      Emotions: frustrated, apprehensive, sore

      Today has been a tough lesson!

      It’s strange how pain can shift your entire perspective. I’ve always wanted more from my body, wishing to be slimmer, fitter, stronger. But today, I’ve been reminded to appreciate what I already have: a body that moves, carries me, and has kept me healthy until now. I took it for granted that I could walk for hours each day without a second thought. But today, I’m grounded, stuck in bed, hoping the ache in my knees fades by tomorrow. It’s humbling. And oddly, it has made my appreciate myself more.

      I love my body for carrying me through this walk and through all the other wild, wonderful things I’ve thrown at it over the years. So I think it deserves more gratitude and care. That starts with real rest today, and maybe (if it comes to it) swallowing my pride and catching a bus tomorrow. Fortunately, the Spanish MotoGP kicks off today, so at least I’ve got some high-speed entertainment to keep my spirits up.

      I did go out this morning, which was probably a little naughty as my knees protested the entire way! I visited Lugo Cathedral, where I bumped into Neil, so we meandered around slowly. It’s a beautiful inspiring place, but you can’t help wonder at the wealth and splendour of the Catholic religion. In comparison to the quiet and humble pilgrims that visit. I snuck some cheeky photos before we headed off for a coffee at a lovely patisserie with the yummiest coffee and pastries. As we were leaving, we bumped into Lars, who was on a mission to find nail scissors. It’s such a joy how naturally time flows with these lovely people. There’s never any awkwardness or doubt, just a warm certainty that when you see each other, it’ll be met with a smile. These friendships are simple, safe, and effortlessly comforting.

      After my little jaunt into town, I hobbled back to the hostel, buying some new baggy trousers on the way 😇 and got back into bed.

      I will try to head out again later for something to eat but I won’t go far.
      Læs mere

    • Day 9: O Cadavo to Lugo

      24. april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Distance: 30km (18miles)
      Elevation gained: 2,100ft
      Emotions: exhausted

      I am lying on my bunk, where I have been for the last 2 hours, resting. Today has been the hardest day by far, despite the relatively low elevation. I think everyone found it hard, I was in a great deal of pain thanks to my worn out knees.

      The heat climbed slowly but continuously throughout the day, and I think each of us kept counting down the kms to this beautiful city. Luckily for me, I caught up with Georgio, Marie and Alesandro just outside the city limits and their high spirits and thirst for life kept me going for the remaining distance until I could take a cold shower and collapse on my bed before having to run a few errands.

      It wasn’t all bad today though and I started the morning early in high spirits. The light was slowly ascending over the horizon spreading beautiful colours across the surrounding countryside and I had great faith that it was going to be a good one. The mountains were replaced by rolling hills and meadows with eucalyptus and pine trees spread neatly amongst the patchwork of fields.

      Despite the pain in my knees, I kept my chin up and kept going. Very very glad for a rest day tomorrow though!
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    • Day 8: Fonsagrada to O Cadavo

      23. april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Distance: 24km (15miles)
      Elevation gained: 2,950ft
      Emotions: tipsy, sore, tired, at peace, missing Patch

      Today I received an email from work to say that I can extend my holiday, therefore allowing me to reach Santiago, rather than stop at Lugo. I was incredibly excited to hear this, and immediately rang my dad.

      It’s an opportunity of a lifetime to walk over 350km to a common destination, but it comes with its own hardships. For me, the biggest hardship is missing Patch, I’m determined to do it and he is incredibly supportive despite missing me, but I also miss him, very much. But, I just have to keep thinking that I will see him soon and we have an entire lifetime together.

      So, I am currently lying on my bed, the sun warming my toes as I wait for dinner. It has been an unexpectedly hard day today with some tough climbs and hot weather, but it’s lovely to feel the sun on my (slightly sunburnt) skin. My knee is still hurting and now the other one has begun to cause me problems, but Lars has suggested I take anti-inflammatories to prevent it getting worse.

      I started very early this morning, just before dawn. Sophie had told me this was the best time to walk and so I crawled out of my very creaky bunk at 6.45 to get ready and it was worth it. The dawn chorus accompanied me out of town and the dusty light across the valley created a calming aurora. The best way to start the day.

      The walk traversed woodlands and rolling hills, overlooking beautiful verdant countryside topped with spinning wind turbines (owned by EDP Renewables - for my colleagues). The sun had dried the out some of the path, which became sandier as we neared O Cadavo. We are leaving the mountains now, heading ever westwards towards our final destination. Way markers signposted our route, sharing the ever decreasing distance to Santiago, 152… 148… 141… 135… 132… tiny steps eating away at the many many km’s.

      With my new timeframe, I have also decided to have a rest day in Lugo, as it’s meant to be a beautiful walled Roman town. So I will have a chance to rest my weary knees and maybe buy some shorts!

      First a 30km hike to get there tomorrow! Wish me luck.

      Buen Camino!
      Læs mere

    • Day 7: Grandas de Salime to Fonsagrada

      22. april, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

      Distance: 24km (15 miles)
      Elevation gain: 3,000ft
      Emotions: cared for, clean, indecisive

      I’m writing much later tonight as I have had a full day of walking with my new Camino family. It was the first day of sunshine, but I was still blessed with some early morning fog as I climbed out of Grandas. Keeping the soaring temperatures at bay.

      The further I walked the warmer it got and the more beautiful the scenery became. It was a glorious day, but I feel like I didn’t appreciate it enough, as I tempered my emotions due to an incredibly painful knee. My spirits were kept high by Flóra, Marie, Georgio, Alesandro, Aud, Neil, Pavel and the newest member of our family, Lars. Once we reached our Albergue, we collected food together and Alesandro cooked for us again. We also all did our own errands: I found a pharmacy where I bought a knee brace, Marie and I did some washing, Neil searched for wine and unfortunately Pavel went to the doctor after being bitten by a dog 😬

      My day has also been plagued by uncertainty as I try to decide whether to stay on the Camino all the way to Santiago, rather than leave early at Lugo, I will decide tomorrow based on cost, work and my beloved knee.

      So goodnight again and Buen Camino!
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