Cycling along the Danube

A 19-day adventure by Chris Read more

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Trip start
May 8, 2016
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Day 1
Sunday, May 8, 2016 at 12:47 PM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 72 m
England Quarndon 52.9667, -1.483352°58’0” N 1°28’60” W
Preparing at home
May 8, 2016 in England ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Practising packing the bike to to meet airline requirements. Got down to about 30 minutes by the 4th attempt.

Trip starts for real on Monday 9th May. Ryanair Manchester to Stuttgart, then 3 trains to get to Triberg.Read more
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Day 2
Monday, May 9, 2016 at 9:54 PM
🌙 16 °C
Altitude: 673 m
Germany Gremmelsbach 48.1585, 8.2573148°9’31” N 8°15’26” E
Huddersfield to Triberg
May 9, 2016 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
The journey started proper at 8.11 from Huddersfield to Manchester airport. The practice breaking the bike down paid off and it was delivered promptly at Stuttgart airport apparently unharmed.

Deutsche Bahn arrangements for the follow on trains worked well. No one seemed bothered about me taking the bike on the tube...

Reserved bike place on the Stuttgart to Karlsruhe express (photo), then a long slow, winding trundle to Triberg.

Finally a brief cycle uphill to the (dbahn reserved ) guesthouse - ghostly quiet.Read more
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Day 3
Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 6:58 PM
☀️ 18 °C
Altitude: 656 m
Germany Seltenbach 47.97534, 8.8278447°58’31” N 8°49’40” E
Tuttlingen outskirts
May 10, 2016 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
A hard day's cycling. 80 km may not sound a lot but the first 12 km was mostly uphill - patches of snow still around. Half the distance has been on gravel paths so the bike, panniers and presumably me are covered in fine dust.

Well signposted bregtalweg and Deutsche Donau.

Sightseeing: Triberg falls (highest in Germany), and Donaquelle - the spring at the source of the Danube.

Wildlife spotted today: red squirrels, buzzards, cranes.Read more
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Day 4
Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 9:29 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 533 m
Germany Riedlingen 48.15278, 9.4739948°9’10” N 9°28’26” E
1
To Riedlingen
May 11, 2016 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
88 km into a head wind today,feeling the weather is on the turn. More gravel paths - like cyclocross with luggage.

Delightful lunchtime stop at Sigmarinen and final stop in Riedlingen. Small but perfectly formed and maintained mediaeval town, famous for resident cranes which aren't much in evidence.

Route crisscrosses the Donau, often on wooden bridges.Read more
Julia Beaumont Echoes of York
5/12/16Reply
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Day 5
Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 9:06 PM
🌧 9 °C
Altitude: 464 m
Germany Günz 48.45596, 10.2765648°27’21” N 10°16’36” E
Riedlingen - Ulm - Gunzburg
May 12, 2016 in Germany ⋅ 🌧 9 °C
A disappointing breakfast (how do they think I can cycle 90 km on Cornflakes?) so had brunch in Ehingen. Cheese and tomato omelette with a roll and coffee for €5.40 - bargain.

Then the rain started. It stopped briefly for viewing the Blue lake - the natural colour persists along the Blau river - and Rommell's tomb. He committed suicide after backing a failed plot to assassinate Hitler.

Helpful hotelier allowed me to use their laundry room to do washing and drying of my clothes.Read more
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Day 6
Friday, May 13, 2016 at 8:26 PM
🌧 11 °C
Altitude: 391 m
Germany Kaibach 48.71304, 10.7928648°42’47” N 10°47’34” E
1
Gunzburg to Donauworth
May 13, 2016 in Germany ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
After 18 hours of rain it finally abated at around 11am today and I even rode without any waterproofs this afternoon. I had a slow start due to getting hopelessly lost for the first hour.

Breakfast was the best yet.

Donauworth is a pretty little town astride two rivers. The forecast thunderstorms swept in at 6pm and we've had bursts of heavy rain on and off since.

Really helpful tourist office booked me into a quirky but spotless b&b on the river's edge.Read more
Julia Beaumont Chessman
5/13/16Reply
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Day 7
Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 8:34 PM
⛅ 10 °C
Altitude: 456 m
Germany Ihrlerstein 48.92816, 11.8735848°55’41” N 11°52’25” E
Donauworth - Ingolstadt - Kelheim
May 14, 2016 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
Today was about as packed as I can handle, in a good way.

Target of 110 km meant an early start and keeping pedalling.

Coffee break was taken from a small village shop (a cyclist gave me directions).

Lunch in Ingolstadt - viewed two churches and got part of a well attended organ recital. Then went to see the old anatomy school, used by Mary Shelley as the setting for Dr Frankenstein (see pic).

Hail and heavy showers in the afternoon.

Rode part of the way with Gunther and we caught the ferry together for the last 5 km into Kelheim. Very scenic trip through a gorge which also saved us having to cycle over another hill.

Staying in Kelheim youth hostel tonight.Read more
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Day 8
Sunday, May 15, 2016 at 7:58 PM
☀️ 9 °C
Altitude: 307 m
Germany Metten 48.85326, 12.9136848°51’12” N 12°54’49” E
1
Kelheim - Metten
May 15, 2016 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
After a good breakfast at the youth hostel (choice of muesli ) I was quickly onto the route (22% downhill). Weather has been very cool but dry all day. I've been wearing my merino wool top plus
cycling top and coat.

Regensburg was the late morning stop but disappointed : beautiful mediaeval buildings and streets but the city just contained lots of tour groups and a few expensive cafes.

So with a stiff following breeze I made fast progress on the north side of the Danube, covering 125 km in all.

Photos: main is of a former benedictine monastery, now a secondary school, in Metten. Car boot sale just outside Regensburg. Vending machine just for cycling inner tubes - they even had my size!Read more
Julia Beaumont Schwiebelturmem
5/16/16Reply
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Day 9
Monday, May 16, 2016 at 7:08 PM
⛅ 8 °C
Altitude: 379 m
Germany Ilz 48.57836, 13.4707848°34’42” N 13°28’15” E
Kelheim - Passau
May 16, 2016 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
After the worst breakfast to date, things didn't get easier as it was freezing cold and wet. In 30 minutes my hands were so cold I couldn't brake (travelling light - no gloves).

All shops shut - what's going on? Whit Monday of course. Worse than a Sunday as I had no provisions prepared. A café was sought out opposite a church and coffee and pancake bought time and warmth. A group of old (possibly older than me) men were drinking beer and playing cards and tolerated me taking their photo.

I dived into another cafe and avoided a downpour while eating good fish soup and fish sausages.

Reached Passau early and had to decide whether to continue into quiet Austria or stay put. The weather decided for me - too cold and wet to continue despite brief sunny spells.

Booked into youth hostel but reaching it was another matter. It's located within a schloss up a rock face and going up Whernside is easier. Worth it though for comfort, value and spectacular views : the main photo is from my bedroom window.Read more
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Day 10
Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 9:13 PM
⛅ 10 °C
Altitude: 325 m
Austria Froschberg 48.29316, 14.2738248°17’35” N 14°16’26” E
1
Passau (Germany) to Linz (Austria)
May 17, 2016 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
A cool but dry day with an almost flat route on good surfaces.

Austrian border was reached in 4 km and it differs from Germany in many ways. Sparsely populated initially but with many gasthauses en route.

The most common greeting is "Grüß gott". Linz looks much more like an eastern European City than its german near neighbours with austere buildings and architecture.

Following the Donauweg path requires taking little ferries from one side of the Danube to the other - I took 4 today, one being additional as the cycle path was closed for tree felling work.

Red deer close by (plus a hare yesterday that I forgot to mention ) and buzzards circling overhead - observing the weer cyclists with a keen eye.Read more
Traveler Linz
5/17/16Reply
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Day 11
Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 4:52 PM
☀️ 18 °C
Altitude: 325 m
Austria Froschberg 48.29317, 14.2738248°17’35” N 14°16’26” E
Day off - Linz
May 18, 2016 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
It makes a change to be foot sore rather than saddle sore but I'll be glad to get back on the bike tomorrow.

It has been hot and with walking there is no cooling breeze.

Adolf Hitler came from Linz and his grand plans included building a retirement home for himself here, demolishing the existing Schloss in the process. A far cry from Townend Close where my mum lives.

Photos;
- stained glass in the incredibly spacious Mariendom church
- lovely old buildings
- displays in the museum of dentistry, tooth shaped
- looking upstream from the SchlossRead more
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Day 12
Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 9:14 PM
🌧 12 °C
Altitude: 243 m
Austria Wachberg 48.22626, 15.3455848°13’35” N 15°20’44” E
Linz - Melk
May 19, 2016 in Austria ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
An early start meant that I reached the Mauthausen concentration camp memorial and exhibitions early. The presentation and explanations were excellent, but even grimmer for that.

Outside the main gates are memorials from the many countries whose citizens died at Mauthausen - it truly was an international tragedy.

No punches were pulled on topics such as: that the maltreatment of prisoners was "by the book"; prisoners were set against each other by establishing hierarchies; german companies that profited from slave labour; the difficulties of prosecuting those involved due to destruction of evidence; and the continued persecution of some groups after the war.

After that I completed three half day sections of the route, time trialling it to reach Melk 10 minutes before the tourist office shut. A helpful assistant found me budget accommodation based in a wood fabrication workshop on the edge of town.

Photos - main gate of Mauthausen from the parade ground, the Italian memorial made up of individual names and photos, Melk Abbey from the old town.Read more
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Day 13
Friday, May 20, 2016 at 6:50 PM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 201 m
Austria Krems 48.40568, 15.5923348°24’20” N 15°35’32” E
1
Melk - Krems
May 20, 2016 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
I had as much of a look at the benedictine Abbey of Melk as I could for free. It is very photogenic and also happens to house a girls' secondary school.

Then there was a long stretch cycling through the Wachau region, famous for the growing of wine. The scenery was what I think many if us imagine Austria to be like.

As it was a short day I arrived in Krems at 3pm and experienced my first beer festival complete with brass band. While there I met a delightful and handsome austrian couple (Florian and Sabrina, pictured) who had met in Eastbourne but whose homes were only kilometres apart. He is studying dentistry and she languages although she already speaks more than 4. Nett dich zu treffen!Read more
Traveler Let me know your names if you read this!
5/20/16Reply
Sabrina SchindeleIt was nice to meet you too! And thank you for your kind words. :) We wish you a nice journey (Schöne Reise!) :D Sabrina & Florian
5/20/16Reply
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Day 14
Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 9:07 PM
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 166 m
Austria Heiligenstadt 48.24422, 16.377848°14’39” N 16°22’40” E
Krems - Vienna (1)
May 21, 2016 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
It's hotting up and a short sleeved top and shades have been necessary since starting at 8.30. In earlier stages I could ride for an hour or more without seeing anyone, let alone another cyclist, now there is never a time when cyclists are not visible. Some, however, were wearing long leggings, long sleeved tops and body warmers.

Photos today are just from Vienna.
- Vienna cool - a single speed bike with neon lock, fashion shoppers and a porsche with yellow seat belts.
- young couples dancing in front of a museum
- McDonalds are everywhere
- a trouble maker being arrested by 10 armed police

Vienna (2) tomorrow.Read more
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Day 15
Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 6:19 PM
⛅ 25 °C
Altitude: 166 m
Austria Heiligenstadt 48.24427, 16.3778148°14’39” N 16°22’40” E
Vienna (2)
May 22, 2016 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
A good 4 hours spent in the Kunsthistorisches museum seeing fine paintings by Reubens, Rembrandt, and my favourite Pieter Breugel the Elder.

Pic 1 - Rembrandt self portrait R, one of 60 with his second, 16 yo wife L.

Pic 2 - section of Breugel painting "peasant wedding" which reminds me of the "two soups" sketch. Porridge is the wedding dish here.

Pic 3 - man absorbed with smartphone amongst roman busts

Pic 4 - more armed police, this time queuing for ice creams; a popular pastime for many now that it is 26 degrees.

Caught a delightful concert in St Peter's church this p.m. organ, orchestra and vocal soloists. They even sang Amazing Grace in the original German.Read more
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Day 16
Monday, May 23, 2016 at 12:48 PM
⛅ 25 °C
Altitude: 147 m
Slovakia Bratislava 48.1408, 17.1048848°8’27” N 17°6’18” E
Bratislava
May 23, 2016 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Sitting outside a café at the end of Novy Most bridge. I was approached by Mike who I had met a few days earlier. His 60th birthday today! Happy Birthday!
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Day 16
Monday, May 23, 2016 at 6:53 PM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 123 m
Hungary Paulamajor 47.87593, 17.2787247°52’33” N 17°16’43” E
1
Vienna - Bratislava - Mosonmagyarovar
May 23, 2016 in Hungary ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Hot - up to 30'C this p.m with a headwind all day. Like being blow dried.

Good directions got me out of Vienna without mishaps and I enjoyed the spiral descent off the Donau bridge (pic 1), memories of the velodrome. A couple of hours spent cycling through the Donau-Auen national park; I didn't see much of the 100 types of bird but did see heron, lizards, butterflies and dragonflies, and heard frogs.

A couple of hours spent in Slovakia - lack of route signs, a bit tatty, but the waitresses at lunch were nice and spoke English. Road sign before hungarian border peppered with bullet holes (pic 2).

Hungary - first impressions: quite smart, good cycle route markings and cycle paths, smells nice.

Arrived in Mosonmagyarovar in time for the tourist office to find me a Pension - smart and friendly. Looks mostly tidy (pic 3) but some neglect, e.g. holes dug in middle of Cycle path not filled in (pic 4) - avoided by local cyclists and motorists alike.

Mosonmagyarovar Is home to 350 practising dentists and from a walk around town seems good for: dental work, beauty treatments and products, massage, spa baths and hair care.Read more
Julia Beaumont Don't get an implant- they use incompatible parts: UK dentists make a fortune removing them!
5/23/16Reply
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Day 17
Tuesday, May 24, 2016 at 9:23 PM
☁️ 14 °C
Altitude: 102 m
Hungary Kisszőnyi-dűlő 47.74714, 18.1195547°44’50” N 18°7’10” E
1
1
to Komarom via Gyor
May 24, 2016 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
The temperature dropped 20 degrees C overnight announced by huge peals of thunder. First two hours of cycling were damp but with a tailwind on good cycle tracks.

Weathered a shower in a bakery in Gyor that happened to do good coffee and cake.

The approach to Gyor from the south is pretty and sudden and the old town is attractive. However leaving Gyor going East takes a long time with industrial scenery. There is a huge Audi plant to the European which makes 90% of all Audi engines.

A section of the official route was unsurfaced and nearly unrideable after the rain.

Since finding digs in Komorom I've walked over the Danube to Slovakia and back but then been pinned in by more rain.

Pics: poppies, crane nesting and tending a chick on top of a telegraph pole, view along the Danube.Read more
Julia Beaumont Lovely
5/24/16Reply
Julia Beaumont Not so lovely
5/24/16Reply
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Day 18
Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 6:51 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 105 m
Hungary Pap-sziget 47.66465, 19.076447°39’53” N 19°4’35” E
to Szentendre via Slovakia
May 25, 2016 in Hungary ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Warm ✅, dry ✅, tailwind ✅. Initially there was a lumpy cycle path beside communist era flats and defunct industrial sites. Pic 1 shows the entrance to a former aluminium factory with the inscription "work for us is a matter of honour and duty".

There followed a busy road section by smelly ponds polluted from industrial waste. Lorries occasionally thundered by me and I was reminded of American bank robberies - "stay where you are and no one gets hurt" - as I tried to ride as far to the right as feasible given the road conditions.

But after 1.5 hours there was a sudden change to beautiful smooth cycle paths, and colourful surroundings.

Pic 2 and 3 - Esztergom, a cruise destination. Older school children in smart uniform and younger children on a cycling trip.

Took ferries to Slovakia and back to take advantage of a great section of cycle path.

Szentendre is very touristy but pleasant and English speaking is common. Lovely Pension with air conditioning.Read more
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Day 19
Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 9:31 PM
🌙 19 °C
Altitude: 122 m
Hungary Vecsés 47.40596, 19.2643247°24’21” N 19°15’52” E
Budapest (finally)
May 26, 2016 in Hungary ⋅ 🌙 19 °C
A pleasant ride along the Danube into Obuda and the outskirts of Budapest. Plenty to observe and with no hurry.

Centrally in Budapest, cycling has been carefully planned and cycle paths clearly marked. Once away from the riverside it's a bit of an add-on and there is too much traffic and too many pedestrians to make cycling relaxing.

After the minimum of sightseeing I took the train to Ferihegy airport, now defunct following the collapse of Malév, the national airline. (The floor of the old fashioned carriage was 5' above platform level). My Cicerone guide however gave clear and accurate instructions on how to get to the new terminal without using the motorway which appears to be the only road serving it.

Following the recce I found a Pension in Vesces, just 20 minutes from the airport.

Looking forward to my return flight to sunny Yorkshire tomorrow!Read more
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Trip end
May 26, 2016