Manche to Med

A 22-day adventure by Chris Read more

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Trip start
May 20, 2017
Manche to Med Traveler
Home to Portsmouth
May 20, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
I hoped to meet fellow cycle tourists on this trip but not as soon as meeting Pete (on his way to Spain ) on Steeton station. Virgin staff helpful for journey to London.

Someone in South West trains has a sense of humour (see toilet).

23 cyclists on ferry including Helen and Jeff - friends from university who holiday together for a week each year.Read more
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Manche to Med Traveler
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St Malo to Fougeres
May 21, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Dry, sunny and warm although caught in a headwind all day. It took an hour to lose all the other cyclists from the ferry.

Dipped the wheels in the sea after struggling down the beach - the tide was out.

Not too much open on a Sunday but I managed to get a goats cheese baguette for my lunch - delicious!

Fougeres busy with stalls and a nordic walking challenge - where this band was playing.

Camping in Fougeres. Tea from Domino's Pizza.Read more
Julia Beaumont Looks like Hewitt is tired already!
5/22/17Reply
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Manche to Med Traveler
Down to the Loire
May 22, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Hot - 32 degrees this pm.

Met Richard on his ICE trike. He's been adjusting his holiday plans after an unexpectedly hilly and wet first week. On his recommendation I had a four course lunch with cider and coffee at the place where we met. Worked well and gave me the energy to extend my ride to 85 miles. Max speed 33mph. Average 12.3. Likely to be a record day this holiday.

Vitreous looked interesting but comprehensively shut, even McDonalds.

Nice bunch of people clearing out the Office du Tourisme in Craon. Practised their English on me and took my photo with bike.Read more
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Manche to Med Traveler
Along the Loire to Fontevraud L'Abbeye
May 23, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
The Loire last night by the campsite.

Fellow campers are also cycling to Nice, heavily laden. Target 60 km a day.

Refreshments at a Petanque competition.

Lunch was a tasting menu in a cave (home grown mushrooms ).Read more
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Manche to Med Traveler
South to Lusignan
May 24, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
If every day could be like this...

Stayed last night at a B&B; how far could I get on a bread and croissant breakfast?

Thanks to a kindly breeze, my average speed was 13mph for the day. Delightful mid morning stop at Airvault to rehydrate and pick up stuff for lunch. More convenience stores than on previous days so provisions have been topped up.

Beautiful and cheap €5.25 campsite by a river with frogs croaking for company.

Soldiers on war memorials have been painted. Workers planting melons.Read more
Julia BeaumontLoving the soldiers
5/24/17Reply
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Manche to Med Traveler
South to Rochechouart
May 25, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Ascension Day - a 'jour de fete' -so only a few businesses open and just in the morning.

Countless fields of poppies.
Curious Limousin cattle.
Man struggling to fit plants on his Harley Davidson.

Staying at Camping de la Meteorite - this area hit by meteorites millions of years ago - in the rock formations.Read more
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Manche to Med Traveler
South to Brantome
May 26, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
A leisurely start due to a "short" day. Visit to Rochechouart chateau with an exhibition of contemporary art. This mixed in with 16th century frescos and beautiful wooden floors.

Classic 2cv in Brantome. Pretty doorway.
33 degrees this pm. Weather due to break soon.Read more
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South to Sarlat Le Caneda (Dordogne)
May 27, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
The nightingale last night was as loud and insistent as a car alarm.

Early away at 7:15 to avoid the heat.

Straight into Periguex for breakfast 2 and to top up on fruit in the market. Delightful descent for 20 km into Eyzies, then a potter along to Sarlat to camp.

Route I'm following was provided by Saddle Skedaddle - interesting to spot their tour backup van in town, for fully supported cyclists.Read more
Julia Beaumont More my style than yours
5/28/17Reply
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Manche to Med Traveler
East to Figeac
May 28, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Victory snatched from the jaws of defeat.

The original plan was to have a relaxing start and have a "short" day of 49 miles ending in Gramat. Slow progress due to missing a turning and getting a puncture. Met a few English cyclists including a bunch on a "luxury" cycling tour of the Dordogne who were being transported by van - no bikes!

Original destination was Gramat but it looked dead and the campsite was unappealing so continued to Figeac, finding a good campsite at 6.30pm (restaurant on site).

Cycle route following old railway line.
Bridge over Dordogne.
Assiette du pecheur - complete with large crayfishRead more
Julia BeaumontWhat do crayfish taste like?
5/28/17Reply
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East to Entraygues sur Truyere
May 29, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Essential laundry chores first then a short day's ride to Entraygues. First section very steep. Refreshments courtesy of a Belgian gent who serves pots of tea to weary travellers - when he's around and in the mood.

Pm following the Lot uphill - very pleasant but a scarcely populated area.

Gothic bridge in Entraygues was built by monks in 13th century who specialise in bridge building.

EDF hydro electric plant a bit north. Plentiful information on the history of the barrage.Read more
Julia Beaumont Happy travellers x
5/29/17Reply
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Manche to Med Traveler
Lots of cycling
May 30, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Thunderstorms overnight. Only slightly damp this morning. Mainly following the Lot today.

Breakfast 1 in tent. Breakfast 2 in a cafe in Estaing. Coffee break and lunch purchase in Lassouts. Very little habitation so no reason to stop - pushed on towards Mende.

Climbing ok until mid afternoon when I made a bad route choice (I blame the map) and did an extra climb to over 880 metres.

Staying at the Hotel du Commerce in Mende - an interesting place with quaint medieval streets in the centre. Population half that of Keighley but bigger.

Evening meal in a maroccan restaurant, very filling and good value.

75 miles, average 12 mph despite over 1000 metres climbing. Top speed 34.2 mph.Read more
Cathrine ClarkeLooks like you are having fun! X
5/31/17Reply
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A day on the Mende
May 31, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Calculated at breakfast that I could afford to take a day off and still keep on schedule.

A walk up the causse for the views and the exercise, picnic lunch and another stroll around town pm. A motorcycle scrambling competition starts in two days and the competitors have been setting up and checking out the courses.

View
Mende Mayor - a hero of the Resistance
List of names killed in WWII includes a womanRead more
Julia Beaumont German Jewish names too?
5/31/17Reply
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Descent into Valley-Pont D'arc
June 1, 2017 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Two passes conquered. The first hit the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. High pasture at over 1100 metres.

The second hit the entry into the Ardeche.

Long descents totalling 1:15 hrs with minimal use of brakes. As a result this has been the fastest stage of the trip: average speed 13.2 mph, max 34.9 mph.

In hilly areas the kilometre signs also show altitude.

Sunny Ardeche valley - before thunderstorms and rain for 4 hours. Dived for chambres d ' hote.Read more
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Chateauneuf du Pape etc
June 3, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
First the Ardeche gorge, with lots of climbs between combes and cols. Eagles ? spotted.

Then a flattish afternoon ride into Cote du Rhone territory and the Vaucluse.

Passed the Melox plant where nuclear fuel cells are made for power plants round the world - heavily protected. Interesting walled town of Caderousse just after also fortified by a three metre wall, but against Rhone floods.Read more
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Manche to Med Traveler
Assault on Sault
June 3, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Until yesterday afternoon drivers had in the majority been considerate but suddenly, below Orange, it changed: they passed close and fast. Today, after 20 km or so they switched back to considerate again - weird.

Took the minor road from Mormoiron to Sault where cyclists outnumbered cars 10 to 1. This the Gorge de Nesque route climbing to 800 metres.

Chamonix on way up. Enjoyable climbing at average 3.5% but slightly scary: potential rock falls to the left and potential cyclist falls to the right, plus the eternal threat of being caught in a thunderstorm.

Camping above Sault, rain looks probable.Read more
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Manche to Med Traveler
The world is lavender
June 4, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Blue skies after last night's thunderstorms. A couple on the campsite are travelling in miniature vintage cars made from wood. But they are pedal powered - amazing handiwork and dedication.

All quiet until arriving in Banon for petit dejeuner (pretty centre with fountain ). Baguette and miel de lavendre.

Descent into Forcalquier, busy with flea market.

Undulating across the Valensole plateau.

Fields of lavender all day. The lavender at altitude is still green, turning purple lower down.Read more
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Manche to Med Traveler
High plains drifter
June 5, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Early start in order to tackle the hilliest stage so far. 1300 metres of ascent with no access to water along the Gorge du Verdon. Looking up at the road twisting above me and the gorge made me feel ill!

Passed an English cyclist on the same route who said he never wanted to cycle another gorge - however he still had a long way to go.

Camping in Castellane - hit lucky in choice of site.Read more
Angela SmithWell done you. I'd have got the bus! Are you nearly there yet? 😊 A x
6/6/17Reply
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Manche to Med Traveler
Castellane to Vence ↗↘⤵
June 6, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Last night chatted with Oliver and Jutta who had me round for a glass of wine. Then met Bill from the US, a former travel book writer now full time cycle tourist. We went for a pizza together and also breakfast this am.

Best campsite of the trip.

Walked up 300 metres to chapel overlooking Castellane with views over the valley.

Cycled up 540 metres and then descended 900 metres through the best scenery of the trip. Met Richard on his first cycle tour - he doesn't want to stop at Nice and is contemplating his options.
First signs for Nice: could walk it from here. Three days of no cycling to come.Read more
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Nice - day trip
June 7, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Hung around the port in Nice, observing the luxury yachts, some of which were for sale or hire.

Pre - booked "guests" leave their shoes on the Quay. Wow, I thought, this boat's asking price is €3.8m, or €120k a week to hire. Little did I know I was at the cheap end. Ultimately prices reached $7pm. I'd expect a destroyer for that money, not a lot of fibreglass and polished wood.

Rental prices included crew but not expenses or VAT. Ingratiating crew, invisible owners, people posing as potential buyers - I couldn't see a lot of enjoyment. Happy to stick to my bike(s) and tent and cook my own meals, ta.

Managed to find a store selling pipe insulation - needed to help with bike packing for the return flight.Read more
Julia Beaumont Nice x
6/8/17Reply
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Vence and Nice
June 8, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Breakfast in Vence. Funeral underway, dress code - wear something black even with jeans.

Bus to Nice and lunch with Carole at a Lebanese restaurant.

Bus back, sitting opposite two English women one of whom had just had her purse stolen.

Swim in the piscine and picnic tea.Read more
Julia Beaumont What a big.....horse
6/8/17Reply
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Nice - near the airport
June 9, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
With the window open I hear the regular roar of jet engines as planes take off opposite the hotel.

Free wheeled from the campsite to Cagnes sur Mer where a seafront cycle path leads to Nice; pretty cyclist friendly. Persuaded a sunbathers to take my pic with the bike in the Med.

I've never had such easy access to an airport.

Dumped the bike and luggage and had a final exploration of Nice. The posh port was closed off - security raised since an incident two days ago when an English man bypassed security to take photos of posh boats.

There is a huge modern library in the centre with a large study area - virtually every seat and terminal taken.

Then I swam in the Mediterranean which was as nice, if not nicer, than it looked.

Barring a disaster this is the last posting from the holiday is I fly back to sunny Yorkshire tomorrow morning.Read more
Julia Beaumont Warmer than La Manche!
6/9/17Reply
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Manche to Med Traveler
Magic
June 10, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Bike with luggage.
Everything in bags a few minutes later....

(60 minutes to be precise - had to unbag the bike twice because of basic errors, I'm out of practice).

Next error: wearing cycling shoes with cleats sets off the alarms going through security.Read more
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Trip end
June 10, 2017