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Rhine : From Mainz to home
  • Chris Tomes
  • Chris Tomes

Rhine : From Mainz to home

16-дневное приключение от Chris Читать далее
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  • Начало поездки
    3 июня 2022 г.
    Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Queuing at St Pancras internationalJubilee chocolates!Mannekin PisEvening drinking

    Home to Brussels

    3 июня 2022 г., Бельгия ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A rainy start riding down to Crossflatts station but under cover thereafter.

    The 09:15 train to London was quite busy and a couple of small groups were noisily enjoying their private parties in our carriage.

    It seemed that many people had the same idea of going away by Eurostar so the queues to get through security were very long. Due to the bikes being clunky when folded, we were rescued by a woman greeter who pulled us out of the crowd to go through a deserted business class gate.

    Eurostar full, but spacious, quiet and efficient.

    Brussels hot and humid. Lots of locals and tourists drinking and dining on the streets. Chips and beer, followed by a Thai meal.
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Vegan pasties at Buddy Buddy
    1Skeleton on memorial Chappelle in MarollesPlaques for jews transported to AuschwitzFace masks compulsory again -Totally smooth at this speedMainz Dom grounds

    Brussels to Mainz

    4 июня 2022 г., Германия ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Foraging for breakfast in Brussels took a while. Finally we found Buddy Buddy vegan cafe. We were just able to scrape the surface of the architecture, art, churches and culture. Worth a longer visit.

    Smooth and fast train to Frankfurt- unfortunately I misread our tickets and we failed to get off at the stop before the main station. Luckily we managed to jump on a local train which took us to Mainz - arriving earlier than originally scheduled.

    Very hot. Melting. We ate outside again - burger and beer today.

    X(XX)X
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    Julia Beaumont

    Julia BeaumontSkeleton on memorial Chappelle in MarollesWith a broken elbow

    04.06.2022Ответить
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Flower beds by the Rhine
    Memorial to the german fallen in two world warsFerry across the RhinePilgrimage route through BacharachYouth hostel BacharachCarousel dining room

    Mainz to Bacharach

    5 июня 2022 г., Германия ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    An early start to minimise the rain - forecast as thundery showers in the afternoon. However, we only suffered a couple of light showers and didn’t have to don waterproofs while cycling.

    Coffee in Rudesheim, picnic lunch in a Bingen park.

    Arrived in Bacharach at 14:30 after 50km cycling.

    Pizza and real ale in one of Germany’s smallest breweries, eating outside yet again in an abandoned carousel.
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Historic flood marks
    Kaiser Wilhelm memorial, KoblenzDeutches Eck - confluence of Mosel and RhineSpitting boy fountain, Koblenz

    Bacharach to Koblenz

    6 июня 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The weather was better than forecast - hot and dry most of the day.

    Faster average speeds on good tracks through the Rhine Gorge, but we had to endure occasional clouds of tiny black flies.

    We had difficulty finding supplies and refreshments and it turned out that virtually everything was closed for Whit Monday.

    We got by. Takeaway coffee from a bakery that was officially closed, chips from a brewery beer garden and a Vietnamese evening meal.
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Looking back to Koblenz - Egyptian goose
    German Unity route bike stationAndernach museum1An archaeologist inspects a graveOn a Camino routeNotice about the detourSt Martins - beautiful medieval churchMemorial in St Martina

    Koblenz to Linz am Rhine

    7 июня 2022 г., Германия ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Blue skies, hot sun and a stunning breakfast gets us off for a good start, crossing the Mosel then passing an industrial estate out of Koblenz.

    Strong coffees in Andernach followed by a trip round the local museum. I’ve never learned German but I can say fluently “where can I leave my bicycle?” and we were granted space.

    Lunch from a bakery in Bad Bresig.

    Long detour around construction work on the approach to Remagen. Central apartment in Linz on the north side of the river. Thundery showers after we arrived. Lovely old town.
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    Julia Beaumont

    Julia BeaumontAn archaeologist inspects a graveThe femora were the wrong way up

    07.06.2022Ответить
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Linz bathroom with Brompton
    Remagen bridge - key to allied breakthrough in WWIIBalcony in RodenkirchenRhine views from flatMany houses display this religious token

    Linz to Koln

    8 июня 2022 г., Германия ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Our overnight accommodation was a small flat in the centre of this lovely medieval town. We woke to the sound of bin men (probably) doing the rounds of the town at 6:15 - it felt like the siege of Linz had begun.

    Make your own breakfast this time - nothing fancy - so we were on our way at 8:30 ready to catch the ferry back across the Rhine.

    Lots of other cyclists, mainly touring but going the opposite way. Coffee in Bad Godesberg, lunch in Wesseling after which it rained all afternoon.

    We are staying in a 7th floor flat outside Koln (well appointed with Rhine views).
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Koln Dom, taking it easy
    St Christopher statueDown to the cells, Gestapo HQPreserved inscriptooms on prison cell wallsFoot passenger and bicycle ferryYours truly in the lift to our flat (for two days)

    Koln - day off

    9 июня 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Leisurely start after buying fresh rolls from the bakery opposite.

    Masks compulsory on public transport and 100% compliance.

    English tour of Duft Haus where eau de cologne was invented- entertaining speaker and lots of guessing the perfume oils.

    A trip round the Dom (cathedral).

    Then a harrowing visit to EL-DE Haus, the head office of the gestapo in Koln.

    Warm sunny evening- nice to go out for a leisurely ride by the river.
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Getting more relaxed
    Ford has three dedicated railway stationsOur hotel rents BromptonsTirkish happy vegan mealBusy street scenes in the centre

    Koln to Düsseldorf

    10 июня 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Lazy 9:30 start in warm and dry weather. North of Cologne is industrial with a large Ford plant to bypass. Picnic lunch in Zons before catching the small ferry to the north bank.

    Way marking often confusing leading into Düsseldorf and we helped some children on a school project on one of our breaks.

    Düsseldorf seems moneyed (many expensive cars and shops) and is our least favourite city to cycle in so far.

    Cheap Turkish vegan evening meal.
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Industrial views in the distanceGraffiti on a flood barrierAlcohol free beers!Pickled herring and chipsStorks nestingA wedding party towed by tractor

    Düsseldorf to Xanten

    11 июня 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Our longest planned day. Over 80km / 50 miles in hot conditions. Once past Duisburg we were into “big sky” country, mostly riding on or near the top of dykes (all of the Rhine area being prone to flooding).

    A nice surprise at lunchtime: we abandoned our pre-made cheese sandwiches for dining out on a posh hotel’s lunchtime special: fish and chips (tomato soup, pickled herring, potato wedges, salad and dessert) all for €8.90.

    We arrived at our holiday flat at 4pm - nice and hospitable hosts - and had just enough strength to shop for our tea and food for tomorrow - have to be prepared as most shops and cafes are closed on Sundays.
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Miners in Xanten
    XantenMore plaques marking Jews deportedAnother St ChristopherSpotless mens toilets1Nuclear power station now an amusement park

    Xanten to Arnhem

    12 июня 2022 г., Нидерланды ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Beautiful, sunny Xanten where we stayed all morning. Miners’ brass band competition in the market place. Interesting (free) Stiftsmuseum.

    Hard cycling into a head wind, either on dam tops or by roads. Two ferries.

    Staying with Emma via Vrienden op de Fiets, our host in Arnhem. Indonesian meal.
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    Julia Beaumont

    Julia BeaumontStalking stork

    13.06.2022Ответить
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Twin brothers who died on the same dayJewish allied soldierPolish soldierTypical woodland cycle trackBig bedroom at our B&BThey keep goats and alpacas hereOur room tonight

    Arnhem to Wijk bij Duurstede

    13 июня 2022 г., Нидерланды ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Interesting Dutch breakfast : boiled egg, melon, fruit yoghurt, various cheeses, various breads. Black tea by request.

    Very easy finding our way using the Dutch Knoppunt system. Most of the time we were riding through nature parks and forests with occasional glimpses of the Rhine.

    Very moving visit to the Arnhem / Osterbeek war cemetery where the fighters from “A Bridge too far” / operation Market Garden are buried. Most died within a couple of days and were aged between 18 and 28.

    Headwind all day - hard work!


    X(xx) X
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    At the alpaca farn
    Locks on the RhineMemorial yo the crew of a downed Halifax bomberMore big skiesA bad shot of a blue parrotBack to canals in Schoonhoven

    Wijk to Schoonhoven

    14 июня 2022 г., Нидерланды ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Quiet night on the alpaca farm. Sunny and dry all day with a moderate tail wind - so much easier than the last few days.

    Riding on top of the dykes looking down onto farms in the polders - a lot growing pears.

    Have met other cycle tourists on similar missions.

    Another Vreinden op de Fiets host this evening and a picnic tea.
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Duck nests commonCrested grebe familyIn the poldersKinderdijkLittle ferry saves miles of cyclingErasmus bridge RotterdamHaarlem hot eveningCorridor to hotel room

    Rotterdam and Haarlem

    15 июня 2022 г., Нидерланды ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Our delightful Vrienden op de Fiets host Elly is kept busy with guests and liked the Bromptons.

    Dry, hot and sunny with a slight tail wind. The best cycling section was in the polders with prolific bird and insect life.

    Famous Kinderdijk (19 windmills in a row) was busy with tourists with cameras.

    Little ferry to cross two rivers.

    The back streets of Rotterdam transitioned into a very busy city centre with cars, lorries, trams , cyclists and pedestrians everywhere. Only segregated cycle lanes brought a measure of safety.

    Train to Haarlem for a rest day from cycling. Haarlem is a nice size, slightly quirky, pretty.
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Grote Kerk
    A pillar biter carving (a hypocrite)Statue by Mari Andriessen - inhabitants of a concentration campChurch floor made from gravestonesBread for the poorWoman pushing walls statue

    Haarlem

    16 июня 2022 г., Нидерланды ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A day exploring Haarlem. After two breakfasts, a visit to St Bavo’s, or Grote Kerk - well worth the €3 entrance. It was as lofty as Köln cathedral and an organist was practising while we were there.

    Picnic lunch from Deka Market. Archaeological museum- small but well explained and free.

    A recce of the route to the ferry, worthwhile as it is a bit complicated and the advice from those queueing was to come early.

    Tea in Chickpea (every dish made from chickpeas).
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  • Chris TomesRhine : From Mainz to homeПутешественник
    Another Mari Andriessen sculpture
    "Man facing the firing squad""Grieving woman"

    Haarlem / Ijmuiden/Newcastle

    17 июня 2022 г., North Sea ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Final walk around Haarlem to view a couple more statues associated with Dutch Resistance during WWII. Some souvenir shopping and a final coffee.

    A smooth ride to the ferry terminal at Ijmuiden.

    First experience of DFDS - a smooth sailing so far.
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    Окончание поездки
    18 июня 2022 г.
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