Rhine : From Mainz to home

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3. juni 2022
Rhine : From Mainz to home Rejsende
Home to Brussels
3. juni 2022, Belgien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
A rainy start riding down to Crossflatts station but under cover thereafter.

The 09:15 train to London was quite busy and a couple of small groups were noisily enjoying their private parties in our carriage.

It seemed that many people had the same idea of going away by Eurostar so the queues to get through security were very long. Due to the bikes being clunky when folded, we were rescued by a woman greeter who pulled us out of the crowd to go through a deserted business class gate.

Eurostar full, but spacious, quiet and efficient.

Brussels hot and humid. Lots of locals and tourists drinking and dining on the streets. Chips and beer, followed by a Thai meal.Læs mere
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Rhine : From Mainz to home Rejsende
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Brussels to Mainz
4. juni 2022, Tyskland ⋅ 🌙 23 °C
Foraging for breakfast in Brussels took a while. Finally we found Buddy Buddy vegan cafe. We were just able to scrape the surface of the architecture, art, churches and culture. Worth a longer visit.

Smooth and fast train to Frankfurt- unfortunately I misread our tickets and we failed to get off at the stop before the main station. Luckily we managed to jump on a local train which took us to Mainz - arriving earlier than originally scheduled.

Very hot. Melting. We ate outside again - burger and beer today.

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Julia Beaumont With a broken elbow
04.06.2022Svar
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Rhine : From Mainz to home Rejsende
Mainz to Bacharach
5. juni 2022, Tyskland ⋅ 🌧 20 °C
An early start to minimise the rain - forecast as thundery showers in the afternoon. However, we only suffered a couple of light showers and didn’t have to don waterproofs while cycling.

Coffee in Rudesheim, picnic lunch in a Bingen park.

Arrived in Bacharach at 14:30 after 50km cycling.

Pizza and real ale in one of Germany’s smallest breweries, eating outside yet again in an abandoned carousel.Læs mere
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Rhine : From Mainz to home Rejsende
Bacharach to Koblenz
6. juni 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
The weather was better than forecast - hot and dry most of the day.

Faster average speeds on good tracks through the Rhine Gorge, but we had to endure occasional clouds of tiny black flies.

We had difficulty finding supplies and refreshments and it turned out that virtually everything was closed for Whit Monday.

We got by. Takeaway coffee from a bakery that was officially closed, chips from a brewery beer garden and a Vietnamese evening meal.Læs mere
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Koblenz to Linz am Rhine
7. juni 2022, Tyskland ⋅ 🌧 18 °C
Blue skies, hot sun and a stunning breakfast gets us off for a good start, crossing the Mosel then passing an industrial estate out of Koblenz.

Strong coffees in Andernach followed by a trip round the local museum. I’ve never learned German but I can say fluently “where can I leave my bicycle?” and we were granted space.

Lunch from a bakery in Bad Bresig.

Long detour around construction work on the approach to Remagen. Central apartment in Linz on the north side of the river. Thundery showers after we arrived. Lovely old town.Læs mere
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Julia Beaumont The femora were the wrong way up
07.06.2022Svar
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Rhine : From Mainz to home Rejsende
Linz to Koln
8. juni 2022, Tyskland ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
Our overnight accommodation was a small flat in the centre of this lovely medieval town. We woke to the sound of bin men (probably) doing the rounds of the town at 6:15 - it felt like the siege of Linz had begun.

Make your own breakfast this time - nothing fancy - so we were on our way at 8:30 ready to catch the ferry back across the Rhine.

Lots of other cyclists, mainly touring but going the opposite way. Coffee in Bad Godesberg, lunch in Wesseling after which it rained all afternoon.

We are staying in a 7th floor flat outside Koln (well appointed with Rhine views).Læs mere
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Koln - day off
9. juni 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Leisurely start after buying fresh rolls from the bakery opposite.

Masks compulsory on public transport and 100% compliance.

English tour of Duft Haus where eau de cologne was invented- entertaining speaker and lots of guessing the perfume oils.

A trip round the Dom (cathedral).

Then a harrowing visit to EL-DE Haus, the head office of the gestapo in Koln.

Warm sunny evening- nice to go out for a leisurely ride by the river.Læs mere
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Rhine : From Mainz to home Rejsende
Koln to Düsseldorf
10. juni 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Lazy 9:30 start in warm and dry weather. North of Cologne is industrial with a large Ford plant to bypass. Picnic lunch in Zons before catching the small ferry to the north bank.

Way marking often confusing leading into Düsseldorf and we helped some children on a school project on one of our breaks.

Düsseldorf seems moneyed (many expensive cars and shops) and is our least favourite city to cycle in so far.

Cheap Turkish vegan evening meal.Læs mere
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Düsseldorf to Xanten
11. juni 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Our longest planned day. Over 80km / 50 miles in hot conditions. Once past Duisburg we were into “big sky” country, mostly riding on or near the top of dykes (all of the Rhine area being prone to flooding).

A nice surprise at lunchtime: we abandoned our pre-made cheese sandwiches for dining out on a posh hotel’s lunchtime special: fish and chips (tomato soup, pickled herring, potato wedges, salad and dessert) all for €8.90.

We arrived at our holiday flat at 4pm - nice and hospitable hosts - and had just enough strength to shop for our tea and food for tomorrow - have to be prepared as most shops and cafes are closed on Sundays.Læs mere
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Xanten to Arnhem
12. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Beautiful, sunny Xanten where we stayed all morning. Miners’ brass band competition in the market place. Interesting (free) Stiftsmuseum.

Hard cycling into a head wind, either on dam tops or by roads. Two ferries.

Staying with Emma via Vrienden op de Fiets, our host in Arnhem. Indonesian meal.Læs mere
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Julia Beaumont Stalking stork
13.06.2022Svar
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Rhine : From Mainz to home Rejsende
Arnhem to Wijk bij Duurstede
13. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Interesting Dutch breakfast : boiled egg, melon, fruit yoghurt, various cheeses, various breads. Black tea by request.

Very easy finding our way using the Dutch Knoppunt system. Most of the time we were riding through nature parks and forests with occasional glimpses of the Rhine.

Very moving visit to the Arnhem / Osterbeek war cemetery where the fighters from “A Bridge too far” / operation Market Garden are buried. Most died within a couple of days and were aged between 18 and 28.

Headwind all day - hard work!

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Wijk to Schoonhoven
14. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Quiet night on the alpaca farm. Sunny and dry all day with a moderate tail wind - so much easier than the last few days.

Riding on top of the dykes looking down onto farms in the polders - a lot growing pears.

Have met other cycle tourists on similar missions.

Another Vreinden op de Fiets host this evening and a picnic tea.Læs mere
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Rotterdam and Haarlem
15. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Our delightful Vrienden op de Fiets host Elly is kept busy with guests and liked the Bromptons.

Dry, hot and sunny with a slight tail wind. The best cycling section was in the polders with prolific bird and insect life.

Famous Kinderdijk (19 windmills in a row) was busy with tourists with cameras.

Little ferry to cross two rivers.

The back streets of Rotterdam transitioned into a very busy city centre with cars, lorries, trams , cyclists and pedestrians everywhere. Only segregated cycle lanes brought a measure of safety.

Train to Haarlem for a rest day from cycling. Haarlem is a nice size, slightly quirky, pretty.Læs mere
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Haarlem
16. juni 2022, Holland ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
A day exploring Haarlem. After two breakfasts, a visit to St Bavo’s, or Grote Kerk - well worth the €3 entrance. It was as lofty as Köln cathedral and an organist was practising while we were there.

Picnic lunch from Deka Market. Archaeological museum- small but well explained and free.

A recce of the route to the ferry, worthwhile as it is a bit complicated and the advice from those queueing was to come early.

Tea in Chickpea (every dish made from chickpeas).Læs mere
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Haarlem / Ijmuiden/Newcastle
17. juni 2022, North Sea ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
Final walk around Haarlem to view a couple more statues associated with Dutch Resistance during WWII. Some souvenir shopping and a final coffee.

A smooth ride to the ferry terminal at Ijmuiden.

First experience of DFDS - a smooth sailing so far.Læs mere
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Slut på rejsen
18. juni 2022