• CJs Excellent Adventure

To Finland and Beyond

Una aventura de 95 días de CJs Excellent Adventure Leer más
  • In and around Irkutsk

    10 de octubre de 2016, Rusia ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    After four days barely sleeping on a train, I awoke from what felt like the best sleep of my life for a delicious buffet breakfast at our hotel.

    It was time to get ready for our next destination - Mongolia, so after packing our bags and after using the hotel internet which was only available in the lobby, we took off for a quick tour around the city of Irkutsk before our train departed at 9pm. While sitting alone in the hotel lobby for Jamie to finish putting on his makeup, I was approached by a young Russian male traveller. The conversation started innocently enough but started getting a bit more interesting when he asked me in his best English whether I was travelling on my own or with a "friend" and getting closer and closer to me in the process. When Jamie finally arrived, I was quite thankful. We found out he was doing essentially the same trip as us, but trying to hitchhike the majority of the way. We became instagram friends to follow each others journeys and hopefully nothing else.

    When we finally did leave the hotel, we decided to follow the green line, a line marked out around the city showing off all its wares and mainly consisted of churches, parks and monuments. There were a few beautiful spots, but they were few and far between in a city which is largely industrialised, and hasn't had a coat of paint since the early 20th century .

    Eventually we gave up on natural beauty and headed for the shops. I had done some reading about Russian jewellery and was determined to leave with a precious gem. This resulted in me dragging Jamie into a jewellery shop and trying on what seemed like 1,000s of pieces before I settled on a blue topaz ring. I left one happy girl and Jamie was just happy to leave, and we continued our shopping experience by checking out the local markets and souvenir shops on the hunt for a babhuska doll.

    Late afternoon, it was time for coffee before we headed to the supermarket to pick up some supplies for our two night train trip to Ulan Bator. As there is no restaurant car abroad this train we of course needed to keep hangry at bay so typically brought enough food to keep us feed for a week, even Teemu (Tems) got some honey to keep him going after feeling a bit neglected over the last few days.

    After dinner at a "local" Italian restaurant and a few Aperol spritz's later, we made our way back to our hotel to pick up our bags before walking the 20 minute trek to the train station. On our short journey, Jamie managed to find 10 rubles which he picked up for "good luck" and we made another Russian Friend on a bike on a bridge who proceeded to have a conversation with us in Russian even though we couldn't speak a word of it. Before we came to Russia, my mum told me that Moscow and St Petersberg were recently rated the most unfriendly cities in the world but during our entire journey we have experienced the contrary. In fact, people were more unfriendly on my recent trips to Majorca and Madrid than they have been in Russia. They may have resting bitch face but I can assure you that they do know how to smile. Only those acting in official capacities for the police or train service, have been rude and/or miserable, consistently.

    We said our goodbyes the best we could to our Russian bridge friend and 5 minutes later we were at the station ready to board our new train. We jumped onboard, and found some of our travellers from our previous journey were also in the same carriage as us again. Our new cabinmate is from Uzbekistan and doesn't speak any English but we had a few laughs over me trying to get up to my bunk and how messily I made my bed compared to his (which was perfect). On first impressions this train is a bit better than the one we had from Moscow, with a larger toilet and fold out seats in the hallway to watch the scenery, but the beds were harder and the pillows were in the form of a thin bean bag. For someone who normally sleeps with two pillows, this was going to be tough. The train was still as hot as a bloody sauna, so dressing for -6 degrees was quickly followed by dressing for 30 degrees. After a quick catch up of our time in Irkutsk with our friends from our earlier journey, it was time to make up our beds and get as much shut eye as possible with a train horn tooting every 20 minutes. Luckily I got me some Grey's Anatomy to keep me company tonight.
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  • Border Love

    11 de octubre de 2016, Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Another day, another train cabin. It is a view that we are becoming used to on our odyssey home.

    There was only one long stop this morning, where we would have the chance to get off the train, and stretch our legs. It was at Ulan Ude, and it was at something like 0615. We slept through the stop. And when we woke, the 20 carriage train that we were part of when we left Irkutsk the night before, was now a single carriage, being pulled by a rather large engine, seemingly more used to pulling 50 cargo wagons, than a single carriage of tourists.

    We shared breakfast with our Uzbek cabin mate, who had drawn the short straw, and found himself stuck on a train full off tourists, none of whom he could communicate with particularly well. He spoke Uzbek and Russian, and no one on train had a language in common with him, other than than the huffy carriage attendants.

    Without the ease of verbal communication, we were able to acertain, that our Uzbek friend was a dolphin trainer, of all things (he had many photos to prove it), and he was heading to Ulan Bataar to continue with his work. It feels quite strange that a man from a landlocked country, would travel to another landlocked country to work as a dolphin trainer, but it was all very real. He had travelled from Tashkent by plane to Irkutsk, landing at 1am, then waited until 2100 to get on the train to Ulan Bataar.

    Courtney had a long conversation with him, using a world map on her tablet, to try and explain where we were coming from, and where we were going to. We also exchanged passports to show him some more of the travelling we had done, and for him to likewise show us, where he had been.

    After breakfast, and a few hours spent chatting to others on the carriage, it was time for part one of the border crossing - leaving Russia. This process took five hours. It involved our carriage being dropped off at a switching yard, and repreatedly shunted along the a few sets of tracks, as more carriages were added to ours, and then the whole resulting train rearranged, just for good measure. When there was a break in the shunting, you could quickly jump off the carriage and make your way into the switching yard's main building, which provided very litttle, other than a toilet (16 R) and a small shop that sold dry goods, plus water.

    Courtney was left on the platform for 45 mins by herself, as the period to get on or off the train was so short, maybe 30 seconds at most. So unless you were stood ready to get on or get off, at any given moment, you were stuck where you were. There was only so much pacing up and down the platform to do, and only so much perusing of the tiny little shop that could be done. 45 minutes alone was about 40 minutes too long. Courtney was however, joined by two cattle on the platform who kept her company until she could be reunited with the train.

    The toilet situation was especailly bad, as while the train was at the yard, the on board toilets were locked. They don't vent to a septic tank under the train, but instead drop straight onto the track. At major stops, the toilets are locked to prevent human excrement building up uncontrollably. When you are stopped for hours at a time though, it can become an issue.

    As the train was being shunted around, the huffy carriage attendants were inside, furiously trying to conceal the many boxes of bananas they had on our carriage. Some people had them in there cabins, and some were piled on the floor. Before the customs inspection took place, they would be systematically concealed in underfloor compartments, ceiling compartments, and cupboards. Quite why someone would want to smuggle 100+kgs of bananas into Mongolia was beside us, which led us to think that perhaps there were other things concealed with the bananas.

    After three hours of being shunted around the switching yard, and another hour's wait on the train for Customs and Border Police to show up, it was finally time for some excitement. We were all confined to our cabins as first passport control, and then customs control took place. The Russian passport police were as humourless and abrasive as every stereotype would lead you to believe. The customs control wasn't much better, we were all asked to empty out our bags at the same time, in a tiny cabin, where there is absolutely no space to do so, and the customs control people got angry, that we couldn't do as they asked. What they asked was the equivalent of fitting 50 people into a mini.

    Six hours after arriving, it was now time to depart Russia, and head into Mongolia. Our first stop in Mongolia was short. It was to pick up a couple of soldiers, who would escort us to the passport/customs control point. And it wasn't long till we got there, during which time, the toilets were unlocked for a grand total of five minutes. Hardly sufficient to satisfy the needs of 30 something people.

    Processing through Mongolia customs was similar to that of leaving Russia. We were greeting by a man, whose first question of the cabin was "What drugs do you have? Cocaine? Heroin? Marujuana?" When the answer was none, he then gave us a big harumph, and as with the Russian customs people, demanded everyone empty their bags for him in unison. Something that is physically impossible in the space that we had available.

    Next was passport control: phase one of two. Our passports were reviewed by a border guard, and then returned to us. Then five minutes later, the same border guard came back and collected everyone's passport, to take off the train, and process. It is unconfortable when your passport is taken away from you like that. You are always more confortable when it is within sight. There was a long conversation with our Uzbek friend in Russian, and then our passports were gone for half an hour.

    When the passports came back, our Uzbek friends was taken off the train for further questioning. It seemed that he didn't have the right visa for his travel to Ulan Bataar. After another hour waiting on the tracks (this was scheduled), our Uzbek friend returned to grab his things and dismbark the train. He was being held at the border. It was hard to communicate, but it was really sad, so we gave him some chocolates, some kiwifruit, and said our goodbyes, after helping him off the train.

    And then, it was time to leave the control station, and head into the real Mongolia, behind the border control. But it was pitch black, so we have no idea what it might have looked like. We sat in the cabin of some other travellers, and drank what remained of our collective booze supplies. A bit too much beer, wine, and vodka was consumed, but a good time was had by all, as we drank to the future fortune of our now departed Uzbek friend.
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  • Under the Ulan Bator spell

    13 de octubre de 2016, Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ -3 °C

    This is a story of two New Zealanders who were awoken from their blissful sleep by an evil cabin lady at 4am to ensure they got off their train 1.5 hours later. As Courtney awoke she realised that the window had been left open all night and the cabin was now about -10 degrees. After a quick wiggle round, Courtney managed to find her jacket and jump out of bed to attempt to close the window which now appeared stuck. Jamie continued to be blissfully unaware and nice and warm under his blankets.

    After Courtney punched Jamie in the arm to wake him up, the evil cabin lady came back demanded our blankets off their beds. It quickly became apparent that she had awoken our cabin so early to ensure all her work was completed before the train stopped entirely.

    Jamie and Courtney finished everything they needed to do by 4.45am and spent the remainder of the time in a zombie like state cursing the world for their lack of sleep brought on by them drinking until 11pm with their cabin mates. As the train arrived in Ulan Bator just after 5.30am, Courtney awoke from the zombie trance and quickly put on her backpack to face the early morning air which was now around -11 degrees. Their hotel was a 5 minute walk from the train station but the locals tried to tell them it was in the middle of town and would take approximately 50 minutes to walk. Courtney thinking that the locals must be right and Jamie's map skills were not up to par became scared that they didn't know where they were going and wanted to get a taxi to ensure that they ended up in the right place. It turns out that the hotel was in fact a 5 minute walk away and the taxi driver made a handsome 10,000 (less than 5 pounds) from a journey which took 2 minutes.

    Courtney, feeling foolish for ever doubting her amazing Jamie, quickly apologised for her error and they wandered into the hotel praying for a miracle that would allow them to check in early. The hotel staff delivered and by 6.30am we were in our hotel room ready for a nap. An alarm was set for 8am to make sure we didn't miss breakfast.

    After breakfast, it was time to see the sights of Ulan Bator and we decided on local transport to take us to Chinggis square in the middle of town. The bus in itself was a bit of an attraction, which was jam packed with locals on their way to work. Courtney found herself being pushed around by a 7 year old girl and couldn't believe the strength of this child. Realising that the national Mongolian sport is wrestling, Courtney thought this child has probably being training since birth.

    After getting pushed around by a child, Courtney and Jamie got off the bus to explore the government building lined square on their way to pick up their train tickets for the Ulan Bator - Beijing leg of their journey. Their tour took them along kareoke bar and korean restaurant lined streets and across scary pedestrian crossings where the pedastrians needed to give way to cars on a green walking light. After grabbing their tickets they made a quick coffee stop and planned the remainder of their day which consisted of a visit to a cashmere shop, a bus journey to south Ulan Bator to visit the Zaisan Memorial Park and Buddha Park and a walk around the Gandantegchinlen Monastery. The view from the Zaisan Memorial Park was spectacular and was easily the highlight of their day.

    After the Monastery, Courtney and Jamie made their way back to the hotel and Courtney went and did a quick workout at the hotel gym (which consisted of a treadmill, a bike and some dumbbells) before ordering a taxi to take them back into town to a very good Indian restaurant named "Nameste". The taxi journey took about 45 minutes to travel 3km due to the heavy Ulan Bator traffic. One thing Courtney and Jamie noticed was the Mongols love of the Toyota Prius, with a Prius spotted every 5m or so. Your arm would fall off if you decided to play "spot a Prius" here. Once they arrived at their destination, the taxi driver tried to charge them 150,000 Mongolian Tughrik but Jamie wasn't having a bar of it and negotiated a much better price of 10,000 Mongoilan Tughrik.

    At the restaurant, Courtney and Jamie were hungry and were excited about the selection. They ordered a chat masala for an entree and a curry, a bread and a biryani for their main. When the chat masala arrived they realised they were in trouble and no amount of hunger was going to finish this meal, the Chat Masala was enough to feed the both of them without even having a main. They did their best and then when the mains arrived, they despaired. The Biryani was big enough to feed six people with rice piled at least 3 cups high, while the curry was about twice the size of what you would ordinarily get at a good UK or NZ curry house. Cue massive stomach bloating and a feeling of disgust. A walk was required to try and work off some of the food consumption, but no amount of walking in the crisp Ulan Bator air was going to save Courtney and Jamie from themselves.
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  • The Real Mongolia - Kind of...

    13 de octubre de 2016, Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ -3 °C

    We were on a tour today, that took us into the Terelj National Park. This was our attempt to see the real Mongolia, not just Ulan Bataar, the capital. The day started at 9:00 when our guides picked us up at the hotel. Jamie was feeling more than a bit ill from the dining experience the night before, and threatened to ruin the day from the start. Fortunately, the upset stomach brought on by the copious consumption of spicy Indian food was brought to heel, in time for our departure.

    Travelling in the car through Ulan Bataar rush hour, it took about 45 mins to clear the city proper, during which time, we passed three separate car crashes. We also passed the aquarium of our Uzbek dolphin trainer. Once out in the wilderness, we made our way to the statue of Chinggis Khan, in all its 30 metres of stainless steel glory. Like the Statue of Liberty, we were able to walk up the statue, only to emerge in the head of the great Khan's horse. And who would we find there, but five of our fellow travellers from Russia.

    After the statue, our next stop was for lunch with a local family. The drive there took us deeper into the national park, where the sights became more and more beautiful, though we couldn't help but notice the enormous number of fences, partitiioning what was once open and communal grass land, and the large number of ger camps set up, for the flood of tourists in the summer time. There was still a great deal of beauty, but as tourism continues to grow, and the many new tousists camps we saw being built, come online, the beauty, of that bit of Monglia anyway, may be lost very soon.

    Lunch at the locals camp was quite delicious. We had milky tea, and curd treats to begin. The curd treats were not sweeteded like they might be in the west, and so they were very sour. Too sour for Courtney to manage more than the one - eaten out of politeness. Next we had soup, which was made with beef stock. Courtney ate the vegetables out of the soup, again so she was polite, and then gave up. The main dish was a local delicacy, which was a savoury pastry filled with meat and finely chopped vegetables - think cornish pasty, with a thinner pastry skin. Courtney got a vege version, which was similarly pretty tasty.

    Following lunch, we jumped on some Mongolian ponies, and rode them up a nearby hill. The Mongolian riding style is different to that in America and Europe, and seems much more akin to the way a jockey of a race horse would ride, with knees bent at 90 degrees. Courtney was chuffed with her horse riding experience, having been thrown from her horse the last time she rode, many years ago. In the spirit of honesty however, we rarely got above a slow walk, and the fastest Courtney got was a fast trot, just short of breaking into a canter. The view from the top of the hill, across the valley was pretty amazing.

    Our final stop, was a Buddhist monastery, deeper into the mountains. After driving along a metal road for about 1km, the road became a dirt tracked, and we followed that for a further 1km. We were only in a sedan car, but this is Mongolia, and taking road cars offroad, is entirely normal. In fact, when we got to the monastry, down the rather rutted and potholed dirt track, we found a school group was there too, and had arrived in a three axle luxury bus.

    After climbing the many steps to the top of the Buddhist monastery, we turned around, to find another beautiful view, back down the valley, with rocky mountains on three sides, and a green treelined stream flowing through the middle. It wasn't hard to understand how the area could become a Buddhist retreat.

    We then headed back into Ulan Bataar, arriving in the crush of rush hour, at 1830. It was then time to find something light for dinner, to make up for the disaster th night before. There was no issue with the quality of th food, only the rather large quantity that we managed to order for ourselves. After a bit of research, we settled on a vegetarian restaurant close to the hotel, only to find that its location was not as advertised. Searching around for somewhere else to get some dinner we settled on a Korean reastarant, of which there are a great many in Ulan Bataar.

    Heading to the 14th floor of a tower block, we found our Korean restaurant, and proceded to place our order. There were a few issues, with items that we wanted on the menu, not being available, but eventually we managed to settle on some food, and waited for it to arrive. And when it arrived, were we shocked. For the second night in a row, we had ordered an obscene amount of food for a pitance. Between the two of us, we had enough food to feed a family of ten. Remembering the lessons of our childhoods, we ate the meat/main vegetables, and then worried about what we could eat of the remainder. We left feeling pretty full - yet again - and headed straight to bed.

    Another day completed - it was good fun.
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  • Life is a highway....to China

    13 de octubre de 2016, China ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Another day, another train trip. Just as I was getting over my train legs and becoming accustomed to daily showers again, we venture back into our 2 x 2.25m cabin after another early start at 5.30am. We were the first into our cabin and quickly got settled into our bottom bunks before our cabin mates were to arrive. The minutes ticked on and before we knew it the train was departing the station and realised we had done good by the train gods and we got the four berth cabin to ourselves.

    We waited for all of 10 minutes before we started exploring the train and it's all wares. We were so glad when we confirmed that this train had a restaurant car. Our hotel had lovingly packed us a takeaway breakfast but as the main portion consisted of a BLT, I decided to take one for the team and sample the restaurant car for breakfast. Our joy for the restaurant car was shortlived when we saw the price of the set menus (being 14 US dollars for breakfast, 24 USD for lunch and 28USD for dinner) which is insanely priced compared to all of our other meals we have been having. We also realised after we had ordered that the restaurant car had no cash machine and we were running very low on currency as we attempted to get rid of it the night before The other issue was that every set meal apart from breakfast consisted of meat, meat, meat and more meat which meant I was well and truly stuffed. After hearing stories of how good the restaurant car was on the Beijing leg we failed to make a trip to the supermarket, so the only food supplies we now had were a few more protein bars, some cup of soup and porridge sachets, so we were going to have to ration. The only upside was that our restaurant waiter was a splitting image of Psy the man who sang Gangnam Style and it turns out he had similar dance moves so it made the inflated prices a little more enjoyable.

    After a pretty average breakfast we headed back to our cabin before I went on the search of our carriage mates from the Russian leg, who were found at the other end of the train. This was great for my physical fitness after feeling like a fatty for the last few days. We traded stories of our time spent in Ulan Bator realising that we had all done variations of the same thing.

    Our first stop was only 10 minutes later, and after time spent on many trains over the last two weeks we were well accustomed to making the most of anytime available off the train. A quick stretch of the legs and we were back on the train for another 4 hours before our next stop, during which we planned a tour to the Great Wall of China with Victoria and Emily with a plan to meet up with John for cocktails later that evening before he departs for a new life in Perth, Australia. As we approached our next stop, I noticed the large quantities of rubbish scattered adjacent to the railway tracks which was quite stark given the surrounding untouched landscape. It made me incredibly sad and angry that the human impact here is so noticeable when we have had the absolute pleasure of coming to appreciate the pristine beauty of this land.

    Our next stop was a bit longer with 37 minutes off the train at Sainshand. Due to the over inflated prices of the restaurant car and having no actual money to our name, the main purpose of this stop was to a). Find an ATM and b). Peruse the options for food. Food existed in the form of potato crisps, ice cream, chocolate, fried bread and more two minute noodles. I was hoping for something in the form of alcohol but the stop was completely dry so after searching far and wide for something semi healthy (and not processed), I settled on peanuts, sparkling water and for a treat a random Mongolian Ice Cream. I opened the packet to quickly discover that my random Mongolian Ice Cream was the curd flavour from the day before and luckily the smell hit my nose before I took a bite because if I had I surely would have been sick. I gave it to Jamie and said "it's all yours" and even Jamie could only manage the tiniest of bites before passing it around to anyone that was game enough to try it. The phrases to describe this monstrosity of an ice cream ranged from "it tastes like toe cheese", "it smells like musty underwear" and "that is the most awful thing I've ever tasted". Safe to say this certainly was an acquired taste and I will never purchase this horrific piece of confectionary ever again.

    Back on the train and it was time to hit the bar with our favourite family from the Lake District - Kath, Paul and Andrew who had a bit of a headstart and were already on beer number 5. After negotiating reduced prices with my main man Psy, I joined them with a full cup of vodka and a soda water. Kath continually filled our glasses up with more beer and by the end of it we were feeling pretty tipsy before we hit the Mongolian Border. After the disaster of the toilets yesterday, we all ensured everyone had a loo stop before they locked the toilets 30 minutes out. This was a fortunate move as we happened to be stuck at this border for two hours with no access to toilets.

    We made the quick journey to the Chinese border and again awaited customs clearance. The stop here was for four hours (from 9pm to 1am) to allow for passport control, customs clearance and the switching of the bogies, so watching your fluid intake was a must. We thought we might be lucky to find some food at this station in the short time that we were allowed off but the only thing the station came with was customs officials and a replica light up Effiel tower. This meant dinner consisted of cup a soup, a protein bar and a sachet of peanut butter I had been carrying around in my backpack since the UK. Mmmm

    The changing of the bogies was an interesting experience, our train was split apart into carriages and jacked up to switch out the Mongolian wheels with the Chinese ones. We happened to be directly opposite our friends Victoria, Emily and John who flaunted their alcohol to us while we wrote them notes showing our disgust in large font on my tablet. It wasn't long until the lack of sleep started catching up with me and I fell asleep and didn't wake, even with the most extreme shunting that was likened to an earthquake.
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  • Braving Beijing (and it's smog)

    16 de octubre de 2016, China ⋅ 🌫 14 °C

    When we woke at 8:00am this morning, the train was approaching Beijing. The wide open plains of Mongolia, and the rocky desert of the Gobi had been replaced overnight by towering mountains, dammed rivers, and heavy, heavy haze.

    You'll see from the photos just how spectacular the scenery was, as we followed along the side of a river gorge, popping in and out of tunnels, as below us, on the river, farmers tended to their orchards, in the narrow river plain before the gorge wall. After a while, it quickly became apparent that the haze we were looking through, was not from the early morning cold, but in fact, thick smog. A proper pea-souper. This realisation was particualrly awful because, we had four days to survive in this polluted jungle.

    As the train pulled into the station at Beijing, we said our goodbyes to our new train family, unsure if we would see many of them again. We had vague plans to go on a tour with Emily and Victoria, and catch up with a few more for a drink in a couple of days' time, but didn't know if it would happen.

    After the obligatory team photos, we made for the nearest ATM, to try and get some cash. This proved to be a problem. China is not the most traveller friendly place that you will ever happen upon. Finding a bank was easy enough, there was one across the road from the train station, but finding an ATM that would work with any of my cards. As it turns out, some ATMs will work, and some won't, so after trying five ATMs and three separate bank cards, we eventually got some money, and headed back to the train station, to buy a subway ticket, to go the one stop to our hotel.

    With all the hassle getting money, we had contemplated just walking to our hotel, knowing that it was close by, but without access to GoogleMaps, or any Google app, we thought it best to get the subway, as we knew our hotel was right next to its local subway station. After 45 minutes of trying, we finally got ourselves our subway tickets, passed through the secutity check point to get into the subway (every station has an x-ray machine and metal detector you have to pass through), and got on out train. Two minutes later we at our stop, and two minutes later we were in the lobby of our hotel.

    Having dressed for the cool weather we had become used to in Finland, Russia, and Mongolia, Beijing was not cold at all - it was ~15C - so by the time we got the room, we were saturated in sweat. The first order of business was a shower, and clean clothes, though clean clothes were in short supply. The second order of business was catching up on washing. Knowing that hotel cleaning costs are extrotionate, Courtney went down to the concierge, to try and find a local laudromat. While there she met Sebastian, an MBA student from Mexico, living out of the hotel for the past to months, while doing his MBA placement. He recommended a service called Laundrytown, where your clothes are picked up, cleaned and returned to you two days later. It was much cheaper than the hotel costs, and about the same as a laundromat, so we thought why not, and arranged for our clothes to be picked up the next day.

    Having dealt with the admin, and had some lunch at the hotel, it was time to go for a walk. We headed for the main shopping street. While there we found a crazy market, that had a lot of food stalls, and some other shops selling awful Chinese tat. The foods available were a bit crazy. There were scorpions, locusts, cockroachs, starfish, seahorses, and sea snails. We didn't have anything to eat, as we were still working of our lunch, but agreed to come back for dinner the next time.

    When the light had faded on the day, we headed back toward the hotel, and stopped at a local Chinese restaurant on the way. Courtney order a tofu dish, that nearly killed her. Not because it was bad, but because it was egg, in the shape of tofu, and a lot of egg at that. There must have been seven or eight eggs used at least, which was far more than could reasonably be stomached. Aside from that the food was prettty decent, if not spectacular.

    And that was the day. Nothing too exciting, nothing too boring.
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  • The Forbidden City is not so Forbidden

    16 de octubre de 2016, China ⋅ 🌫 14 °C

    After a brilliant nights sleep, it was time to see the sights of Beijing but not before the ATMs had to be renegotiated so that we could take out money to pay for our tour of the Great Wall. It seems that the bank had decided that just as we wanted to pay, they would do some maintenence on their systems which meant that no transactions were able to be processed during a 3 hour window and of course that 3 hour window occurred when we were trying to pay. Embarrassed, Jamie ran off to draw some money out of the ATMs while I went and did the most important task of the morning - purchasing breakfast for the two of us at a local bakery.

    Jamie returned flustered, as it appeared the ATMs didn't want to give us any money either, so had to explain to the lady that we would only be able to pay later when the bank maintainance was complete. I watched on, scoffing my face with breakfast as I was hungry.

    We had attempted to be out of the hotel at 10am but due to our financial debacle of the morning taking longer than expected we ended up leaving the hotel closer to 11am. We decided to walk the three blocks to Tiannamen square from our hotel and passed countless rickshaws and cyclists braving the Beijing traffic. As we had three large intersections to cross, we quickly realised the rules of the pedestrian crossing which are there are no rules. Even if there is a green man, that doesn't mean cars stop for you and even if there is a red man it doesn't mean you can't walk. Basically, you walk anytime there is a space in traffic and hope like hell the cars will stop for you. The other striking observation was again the Smog and how our visibility was limited to about 500m. It really dampens your mood being in somewhere so grey and knowing that the quality of the air you are breathing in is equivalent to roughly smoking 18 cigarettes.

    We knew we had hit Tiannamen Square as the volume of people multiplied by what seemed like millions. After walking through a security checkpoint, we were greeted with massive lines of tour groups trying to get it to Mao's Mausoleum, security guards and selfie sticks (God I hate those things). The other surprising observation was how much internal tourism there was in China, with Europeans being few and far in between. Because of this, we had wondered if we would bump into our friends Emily and Victoria from the train and literally about 30 minutes later they spotted Jamie and we laughed at how ironic it was finding each other in such a massive city.

    We realised that we had the same itinerary planned for the rest of the day which included the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven so we decided to hang out together to check out the sights. First stop was the Forbidden City, which was a selection of temples repeating themselves over and over again with a sea of never ending tourists. The shear number of people was enough to drive us out of the place, so after a quick look around we made our way out and walked towards to Temple of Heaven via our hotel to sort out the tour tickets for the following day.

    After our quick stopover, we made our way to the Temple of Heaven via McDonald's where we stopped for an ice cream cone. Turns out the ice cream was actually frozen yoghurt and after craving ice cream all day, I ended up cursing McDonald's for providing me with the healthier option. After this incredible disappointment, we continued to the temple and had the option of an entry ticket or a through ticket which would allow all access to all temples within the complex. After the Forbidden City we were a bit templed out, so we opted for a walk around the grounds where we anticipated that we would at least get a view of the temples. The majority of the complex was just grass/gardens and the only buildings that were found required the through ticket or entrance was available at an inflated sum. Our tour consisted of a lot of brick walls, some roses and grass. As it was getting darker and closer to 6pm, we decided to catch the metro back to our hotel to enjoy two for one cocktails which unfortunately were incredibly disappointing bit as they were supplemented by free left over afternoon tea, it almost made up for it.

    A few cocktails later and it was time to hit the local food market for a bit of dinner. We passed the same wonderful delicacies from last night with the scorpions and cockroaches being in particularly high supply. We consumed corn on a cob which was very chewy, steamed vegetable dumplings which consisted of some vegetsble and some meat, the favourite being a potato fritter with an egg in the middle and dessert consisting of a hot waffle cone with a scoop pf icecream.

    Our night ended with a brief walk down one of the expensive shopping streets which had light up stairs and some cute little pop up art things. We started making our way to the Tube station where Emily and Victoria would go the opposite direction to us and the second disaster of our holiday struck as I fell down the stairs and landed heavily on my left arm, scratching and brusing my arm and losing all the feeling in my little finger. Jamie said I was fine if I had broken my arm as long as it wasn't my ankle. Awww young love.
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  • The not so Great Wall

    17 de octubre de 2016, China ⋅ 🌫 12 °C

    The day started early, as we got on the tour bus at 7:15am. We were in the lobby on time, and were approached by the tour guide pretty quickly to get on our bus. Unfortunately, we then sat outside the hotel for another fifteen minutes, as we waited for another group to board the bus. This was the first indication, that the day was not going to go to plan.

    We left our hotel 15 minutes late, and headed to Emily and Victoria's hotel to pick them up, on the way to the Ming Tombs and Great Wall. By the time everyone was on the bus, it was 8:00, and we made our way out of Beijing towards the Tomb's. Our guide spend about 30 minutes talking to us about living in Beijing, living in China, and the history of the Ming Tombs.

    We got to the Ming tombs at about 9:00, and started the tour proper. As is customary at any Chinese attraction, we were heckled by hawkers trying to tell us all manner of cheap rubbish. Once inside, we made our way to the tomb itself. After the obligatory stories of who was buried there, and how many concubines (mistresses) joined him, we were let loose to explore the tomb.

    The tomb was pretty unimpressive - sadly. To the many Chinese tourists there, I think it had a great deal of cultural meaning, but to the unitiated westerner, the connection we had was limited at best, and the architecture, no different to so much else that we had seen on our travels already, through Beijing.

    WIth a sense of slight disappointment, we boarded the bus, and headed to our next stop - lunch. Though before we got any food, we would have to suffer through an exhibition of jade products, for 45 minutes. This was not ideal, but we tolerated it by sitting at the bar. The jade jewellery and ornaments were not our thing at all. Incredibly Chinese, funny enough, and there was absolutely no way we were going to buy anything.

    The food was okay , when we finally came to eat it, though there were limited vegetarian options. And then at 12:00, it was time to get on the bus again, and head to the Great Wall. We went to a section of the wall called Badaling. As we got closer, the tour guide walked through the cabin to collect money to pay for the cost of a cable car to the top of the hills and the Great Wall that sat on top of the them. As we wanted to walk up, we declined the invitation, but were told that there was not enough time for us to walk to the top, before the bus left for Beijing, and we would have to pay the extra money for the cable car, if we were actually to walk on the wall. This didn't sit well at all. with us, with Emily and Victoria, or with the remainder of the bus. It was also an issue for Emily and Victoria, as they had insufficent money to pay for the cable car.

    Much as credit card payment exists in China for some things, the Chinese stubbornly persist in requiring cash payment for many others. And to verify the identity of people making cash payment, you instead have to present some kind of ID. For us, it is our passports, which were collected by our tour guide and marched away, while she bought our tickets for us. In the western world, it would be entirely unaccpetable, but in China, it is par for the course.

    After getting our tickets, for the cable cars, we queued to hop on, and head up the mountain. As various Chinese security guards shouted and manhandled people in the chaos, we were pushed into a gondola which sped up tye mountain at lightning fast speed, and in two minutes later found ourselves at the top of the mountain. From the gondola, it was a short walk to the wall, but when we arrived, there wasn't much of the wall to see. It was covered in people. Covered in people to the point that you couldn't walk freely, and had to shuffle. Covered in people to the point that it took ten minnutes to walk 100 metres.

    The sheer number of people made the experience horrible. And then there was the smog. In a different place, you would have throught that the 'clouds' were just that, clouds. But this is China, and we were high enough to be inside the smog cloud that hovers over Beijing, all day, very day. This was another black mark against the experience. A very large, very black, mark.

    Having suffered as much as we could of the environment on the Great Wall, we made our way down the mountain, very early, about 1 hr before the bus was due to leave. And all that greated us were more hawkers, trying to sell us their wares. There wasn''t a moments peace, and there was nothing pleasant about the experience at all.

    After waiting for everyone to get back on the bus, we left at close to three. Very soon after, the bus groaned in extreme annoyance as we discoverd that we were not heading back to our hotels, after a deeply dissappointing day, but instead heading to some random foot massage parlour, to received a free foot massage. A free foot massage that no one wanted. As the bus told the guide that we didn't want the foot massage, we were told that we had to go to one other store. The bus responded "Why?". We had paid for a tour to the Ming Tombs and Great Wall, with a lunch included, nothing more. But no, buried deep in the fine print, and in no way made obvious, was the fact that we had purchased a shopping tour, not a 'private tour'. We were required to visit two shops. To the western population of the bus, this was highly deceitful. The bus sat stewing in anger for the next twenty minutes. You could hear a pin drop.

    The bus would not be dropping off anyone at their hotel, until it had made a stop at another shop, though the shop was changed from a foot massage parlour, to a Chinese tea house. Annoyingly, the bus passed right passed Emily & Victoria's hotel on the way to the tea house. The bus passed within a block of our hotel too. When the bus eventually stopped at the tea house, half the bus disembarked and headed to the nearest metro. We were far from impressed.

    Arriving back at the hotel, we thought that after our disapoointing day, we should relax for a bit. It was at this point, we got a call that out washing has been delivered to the hotel reception, and we should pick it up. We did so, only to discover that the washing delivered to us, was not ours, but someone elses. This was problematic. As there wasn't much time to sort the problem before we left for Vietnam. As we spoke to the concierge about whether the mix up happened in the hotel, or at the wahing company, we saw Sebastian, who had directed us to the company initially.

    He was feeling a bit embarassed, that having directed us to the company, they had made a meal of things the first time out. He helped us out getting in contact with the company to sort the problem, and we then headed to the hotel restaurant for a quick meal before heading out to a bar to meet some of the train gang. Dinner was tasty, and quick, but as we were walking out through the lobby, the conceierge shouted over, as they had the laundry company on the line. Speaking to the company, they advised that the delivery driver would be there in the next ten minutes to try and sort out the mix up. That meant a trip back to the room, to get the random clothes that we had received, to take them down to reception.

    On arrival back at reception, the driver was already there with five separate bags of clothing. After having a look through four of the bags, to ascertain that they weren't ours, we were not confident of finding our stuff in bag number five. Amazing we did find our stuff in the laundry bag of a person called Alex. Amazed, Courtney ran the clothes up to the room, before we headed out to drinks, which we were now running late for.

    On the way, she had to suffer the very unwanted advances of two drunk Chinese men in the lift, who through mime and inneuendo, tried to speak to chat up Courtney. Things took a turn for the ugly, when the men followed Courtney off the lift, and began following her. Thanks to a number of turns in the hotel corridor, Courtney was able to make it back to the room, with the aid of some running out of fear, without the Chinese men seeing where she had gone. Had she not been able to get in the room , she would have hit a dead-end, and who knows what might have happened. After waiting in the room for five minutes to make sure her unwanted admirers had dissappeared, Courtney the hot mess arrived in the hotel lobby, to head to drinks.

    The drinks were good, and for Courtney, a bit stronger than usual. It was nice to catch up with the train gang, and say goodbye to them. Maybe we'll see them again - maybe we won't. We are dispersing across the world, and no one knows where we might all end up.

    Another day of adventure over.
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  • Sun's out, Guns out

    18 de octubre de 2016, China ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Monday morning. Normally it would consist of an early morning wake up call proceeding a trip on the Northern line to complete my gym workout before heading to work to start the week. My Monday mornings now blur into one fantastic long weekend but to ensure a modicum of routine is maintained, a gym workout is still essential after my sleep in, to work off the alcohol (and ice cream, and rice and peanuts) from the night before.

    After a nice long run to work off some of the deep fried Chinese cuisine consumed, I returned to our room to an agitated Jamie who was now trying to figure out why the wifi button on his phone was greyed out and not able to be turned on. After some searching on the yahoo search engine (God I miss Google), we were able to establish that it was most likely a hardware issue with his phone after dropping it on a marble floor the day before. With my phone somewhere between Scotland and New Zealand, we have now successfully reduced our cellphone quota and means of contacting the outside world via phone to zero. Technology and our collective gumbiness is certainly not our friend. After mucking round for what seemed like hours, we headed for our first meal of the day at 12.30 at our hotel restaurant which fortunately has some delicious Chinese food because we just couldn't be arsed anymore.

    Counting the hours until we could leave China (everything is just so so hard), we headed to the train station to pick up our train tickets for our trip to Nanning the following day. Walking out of our hotel, we could hardly believe our eyes. After three days of horrendous Smog, we were greeted with bright blue skies i.e. a perfect day to have gone to the Great Wall and we couldn't help feeling both pissed off and sorry that Victoria, Emily and John got to miss Beijing relatively smog free. Not wanting to waste the beautiful blue sky, we made our way with haste to the station. The process to pick up our tickets was relatively quick and easy with exception to Jamie's ticket being booked using his NZ passport details, when his visa is in his UK passport. As this is an internal train, I reassured the increasingly agitated Jamie that it should be fine, but it didn't help that the ticket lady appeared puzzled and mentioned something about cancelling a ticket in her best pidgin English. The most important thing is that we left with 2 tickets to Nanning, in our respective names. For now that will suffice and we will see what tomorrow brings.

    With the blue sky and day ticking away, we took the subway to the Lama Temple which came highly recommended by Victoria and Emily. On arrival, it appeared that this temple would be much easier to navigate than the Forbidden City and we breathed a sigh of relief. After collecting our free insence to pray to the Buddhist gods we made our way through the site to admire the beautiful Buddhist relics and statues. It turned out that we were in the esteemed company of Monk Royalty with the most senior monk in China (assumed) also visiting with his posse in the glare of TV cameras. I found it quite ironic that I got told off for taking photos of the Buddhist boss man when TV crews and monks galore, snapped away, happy as Larry.

    A little bit over temples, we decided to walk to the Drum and Bell towers through the Hutongs - the small narrow residential areas which can only be navigated by scooter, rickshaw or bike. Our first observation was the large number of public toilets which dotted the streets. We assumed this was because most properties do not have access to toilets and that these would be communal for the local residents to use. These restrooms have no seperate cubicles, with just a few holes in the ground to do your business. I'll never take another Portoloo for granted.

    Our second observation was that there seems to be a wonderful sense of community within these areas, ranging from groups of ladies gossiping and laughing in Doris' doorway, to the gambling society taking Roger's last Yuan in a game of cards, backgammon, or checkers (Chinese of course). It was evident that these people do not have a huge amount of money, but what they lack in financial security they make up for in seemingly strong relationships and neighbourly love. It was certainly eye opening and I think something the western world can definetely learn from. Can I borrow some flour for my cookies Natasha?

    When we arrived at the Bell Tower we were 1 minute past the final entrance time, pretty typical given our last couple of days, so we observed from the outside. We decided it was time to go check out the Olympic Park so made our way through the neighbourhood to the nearest tube station. We walked passed a couple of delicious looking restaurants and decided we would make our way back to the area after for a spot of tea.

    The Olympic Park was heaving with Chinese tour groups who took turns taking photos in front of the birds nest coming up with the most elaborate poses they could possible think of. We walked around and waited for twilight to turn to darkness to see the park in all its LED splendour. The water cube (the national swimming pool) was pretty spectacular (see photo below) but the birds nest was a bit disappointing with its light show dedicated to Chinese advertising.

    After obtaining the obligatory photos, we made our way back to our predetermined dinner choice and enjoyed a delicious Mojito (rating 4/5) and some fried red bean dish that was out of this world. China might have annoyed us with not being able to do barely anything without difficulty, but I'll give it this, the food has been sensational. I am however becoming increasingly concerned that my fat pants are not going to fit when I get back to NZ.
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  • Another day, another train

    18 de octubre de 2016, China ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Last day in Beijing today. We didn't have too much time, so we hurried to get as much done as possible.

    First was a trip out to get some breakfast. We went to a small cafe on one of the main roads around our hotel, and had a decent lunch, for breakfast. There were lots of noodles, lots of rice, and plenty of chicken. Not knowing what the eating arrangements on the train would be like, having a big meal before we got on, was a smart thing to do.

    After breakfast, it was time to head to the supermarket, and stock up on supplies for the train trip. The wonder of Chinese supermarkets, is the amazing array of certain products, that you don't get in the West. For example, the cooking oil aisle, resembles the wine aisle in a Western supermarket. The same goes for the noodle, and rice aisles. The fruit is also more than a bit different. Having stocked up on supplies, it was time to check out of the hotel, and head to our last attraction in Beijing.

    Arriving at Qiongdao Island Park, it didn't look like much, being an island, in a lake, in a park, surrounded by eight-foot hight walls. Once in the park though, things were rather different. The hustle and bustle of Beijing was gone, and there was nothing but space, and groups of school children laughing and playing, around what was a very polluted lake. Courtney wanted to steal one, but I wouldn't let her.

    Trying to get to Qiongdao Island, we had to chose which way around the lake to walk. We picked wrong, and as we got to what we thought was the bridge to the island, we actually arrived at the end of the park. Not having time to turn around, and walk the other way around the lake, we decided instead to head for the train station.

    Having arrived in China at Beijing Central Station, we had a very good idea of how busy the place was. What we didn't know however, was where the entrance to the building was. Looking from one end of the building to another, we could not find the way in. All we could find was the way out, and many, many ticket booths. Wasting about 25 minutes wandering around, trying to find the way in, we eventually discovered that the some of the ticket booths, were not in fact ticket booths they were a ticket check station, from where you could enter the station.

    Sighing at our stupidity, we made our way to the closest ticket checking booth, to enter the station. Only we couldn't. We were at the wrong station. We were supposed to be at Beijing West Station, not Beijing Central Station. Cue panic. We had arrived with plenty of time to spare, but had wasted so much of it trying to find the entrance to a station that wasn't even ours. Speaking to the ticket check man, he suggested that we get the subway to our proper station. A taxi could be faster, but with the Beijing traffic, it could as easliy take 5 times as long as the subway.

    So we headed to another ticket booth, to get a ticket to the the right train station, and got ourselves moving. Courtney was not at her best, in the rather stressful situation, which was not aided by the muggy heat of Beijing. Despite having had a shower only a few hours ago, we were both saturated in sweat from the stress, the heavy bags, and the running that we were doing.

    Making it onto the subway, we hoped that we would make it our correct train station in time. We knew from our research that the Chinese authorities recommend arriving two hours before a train departs to make sure that you can clear secuity and check in. It works a lot like getting on a plane. By the time that we got to the right train station, we had 45 minutes left. As luck would have it, that was plenty of time to deal with all the admin, and make our way to our train.

    Rather relieved, we got on, and made our way to our cabin. We had a bottom and a top bunk, and hoped, as had happened betwen Mongolia and Beijing, that we could get the compartment to ourselves. That wasn't that case sadly, and we ended up sharing with a mid-thirties Chinese man, and a late-sixties Chinese woman. Not being able to communicate with them verbally was a bit difficult, but through maps, hand movement, and food, we were able to strike up a limited report.

    With the stress of the day, we decided to make use of the restaurant on the train, have a quick meal, and have an early night. The options in the restaurant car were a bit limited for vegetarians, but speaking to one of the train conductors, we were able to ascertain, what would work, and what wouldn't, and ordered it. The beer was half-decent too, though the conductor was adamant that it was a very poor example of Chinese beer.

    Amply sufficed, and tired, we repaired to our bunks to read briefly, and then get some sleep. Though in Courtney's case, the prospect of sleep was an aspirational goal.
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  • Thomas the tanked engine

    19 de octubre de 2016, China ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Argh, If I take an overnight train again it would be too soon. Shame that I have another 4 nights of overnight trains to complete on our journey home. Luckily for me the time between them and now is a lot longer than our last rendezvous on an overnight train. Anywho, after a night of broken sleep in between train hoots and clickety clacks, I awoke instantly alarmed to our Chinese cabin man standing over my bed with his arm over my face attempting to plug his cellphone charger into the socket adjacent to my bed.

    Even though exhaustion was seeping through my pores, there was no getting back to sleep after such a sight and I decided to watch some episodes of the Big Bang Theory and consumed articles of our food bag for breakfast until Jamie awoke from his blissful slumber. I'm so jealous of his ability to sleep right now.

    By the time Jamie awoke properly it was nearly 10.30am and I had battled hours of doing everything in my power to not finish the most delicious garlic crostini I have ever tasted before Jamie got to sample any. Being bored out of my brain, the next food break was the only thing I had to look forward to and before I knew it, it was time to head to the restaurant car to grab some lunch before getting off the train. As determined last night, the only two vegetarian options were ordered and I looked forward to my egg and eggplant dishes to give me some proper sustenance instead of the snack food that has plagued my diet whilst being on the train. Our eggplant was brought to the table quickly followed by a plate of cabbage. Incensed, tired and hangry, I made Jamie ask if they had made a mistake but it turns out the kitchen had run out of eggs. I wanted to cry but instead drank my beer and ate my rice in silence cursing China for the 1 millionith time in 5 days.

    We returned to the cabin to prepare to get off at Nanning and switch to our overnight train to Hanoi (oh yeah I forgot I had another night on a train). At 3.35 (our supposed arrival time), we arrived in a big pretty station called "Nanningdong" where everyone was seemingly getting off, so we strapped on our bags and jumped off the train thinking we were so awesome and we got this train stuff down. Our arrogance lasted all of 5 minutes when we realised that we had got off a station too early and now had to negotiate the ticketing hall with our minimal Mandarin to try and get another train to the right station. Fortunately, we had 2 hours or so until our train departed the actual Nanning Station, and by the time we boarded the train to take us to the right station, we had eaten into that time by 45 minutes.

    The Nanningdong station was fancy and new and came equipped with lots of fine food outlets which would have been perfect to grab some more hearty products that would suffice for dinner in case our next train didn't have a restaurant car, however given our limited time there we thought we would wait and grab some food at Nanning Station because if international trains departed from there they surely must have better food options right? WRONG. On arrival at the station, we quickly determined that we were in some glorified warehouse with the only food options now avaliable in vending machines. With supplies running low, I grabbed a packet of crisps and some things like pockys but in the shape of mushrooms, and they were eaten before getting on the train.

    At 5.40pm we were finally allowed to board our train leaving at 6.09pm, and whilst walking to our carriage we noticed no restaurant car. Once settled in our cabin, our worst fears were confirmed and there was no restaurant car on board. Dinner was now going to consist of our last cup a soups, a muesli bar and apples. Breakfast in Vietnam cannot come soon enough, but we are a little bit unsure what time we actual cross the Vietnam border and our Visa entry is only valid from the 20th October and today is the 19th... so depending on the time we cross it will either be just before or just after the clock in Vietnam strikes 12....

    We made it to the China border at 10.20pm where we were required to exit the train with everything we own and put our bags through additional security checks while awaiting a visit to passport control. This was all done with me muttering under my breath how much I hate China with Jamie nodding his head in agreement. However, for the first time since we arrived in China, everything was pretty straight forward and within 40 minutes we were back on the train and left the station not much later heading towards the Vietnam border. This was probably the only time I have hoped for more time on the train or for it to break down but alas we arrived at the border at 12.20am Chinese time which unfortunately was 11.20pm Vietnam time. We again had to exit the train with everything we own and I was trying every delay tactic in the book and waited for everyone else to join the queue before I joined at the very back. Turns out Jamie could use his UK passport without a visa, so he joked about leaving me on the border to fend for myself while he went on to enjoy pho in Hanoi. Jamie, forever the comedian was lucky that I was so tired that I didnt have the energy to rip up his passport right there for him to find out how funny being left at the border was.

    We got to the front of the queue at 11.45pm and stood patiently waiting for the inevitable problems but they never came, we got our stamps and went on our merry way back on the train (I know such a drama queen). Upon our return we discovered that the bathrooms were shut again and would not reopen until the train left the station which turned out was at 2am. This is when I really regretting not picking up a shewee - boys have it so easy. I couldnt be bothered waiting so it was time for a few hours sleep before the train arrived in Hanoi at 5.30am.
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  • Good Morning Vietnam

    20 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Travelling by train, as by plane, you have to get used to some really inconvient arrival times. Today was one of those days. We arrived into Hanoi, though not the central train station, just before six in the morning. We couldn't get all the way into the central station because of issues with the rail bridge, which was once the longest in the world, and is so old, it was designed by Mon. Eiffel, of Parisian scaffolding tower fame.

    As is customary in this part of the world, it was time to run the gauntlet of taxis, trying to provide their services. We shared a cab with Aisha, a traveller we met on the train the night before. She had been travelling through Japan and China, on her way to Melbourne, Australia. Hanoi was her last stop, before hopping on the plane for the long flight to the Antipodes.

    Even with the train not going right into the middle of town, and the taxi ride, we still got to our hotel at about 0630, far too early to check in. We did take advantage of the hotel breakfast however, and were offered the option of using the room of someone that had checked out early, before it was cleaned. This was a rather strange offer, and not one we had ever had before. The hotel was fully booked, and this was the best way that the hotel could accommodate us, an at the very least have a shower, and use the toilet facilities.

    Having taken the hotel up on the offer, we sat on the end of the bed in the room, and watched the final US presidential debate. It didn't take long however, for the debate to transform into more of an argument, and for Courtney's attentive viewing of the television, to become an inattentive examination of the inside of her eyelids.

    Once the debate was over, and after an hour and a bit's sleep for Courtney, it was time to set forth, into the world of Vietnam. The time was 0915. Now to learn the weird and wonderful road rules of Vietnam. The lesson is quite quick. There are rules, but they are treated as suggestions. If you want to do anything as a pedestrian, cyclist, or driver, you just need to do it confidently, but carefully, and everyone else on the road willl give you the space that you need.

    Our first purchase in Vietnam was a Vietnamese coffee. These come with condensed milk in the bottom, and an espresso over the top. When you come to drink the coffee, you mix the two together with a stirrer, and enjoy. It is a wonderful combination, not necessarily unique to Vietnam, but stereotypical, all the same. As we walked, we passed St Josephs Cathedral, built by the French, when Hanoi was part of French Indo-China. It was an excellent example of a building built in a style very different to those around it. Though there is a French quarter that still remains in Hanoi, the Cathedral isn't surrounded by buildings that were built at the same time it was.

    Continuing our walk we headed to a temple in the old town, which sits on an island, in a lake. It contains many treasures, including a wooden horse that over-indulged in a few too many magic mushrooms which Courtney was obsessed with. Wishing that we had the same energy as that wooden horse, as we started to flag, we had some lunch to try and perk ourselves up. It was tasty, but the energy it provided was short lived. Between the heat, humidity, and lack of sleep, we were not going to be able to make much more of the day.

    Back at the hotel, we indulged in another shower, before perusing the internet to source tickets to our next stop, Dong Hoi. Inspite of the internets ability to lower the cost of things the world over, in Vietnam, it turned out that the cheapest way to buy our train tickets was through the front desk of our hotel. Having sorted the longest train leg of our trip through Vietnam, we headed out for dinner, and a wander through the night-time streets of Hanoi.

    They were littered with people cooking dinner, washing dishes, and selling all manner of food. Needing to catch up on some sleep, we didn't stay out too late, an were in bed by 2100. As I am sure you are aware, Will Smith wrote the Grammy winning song, 'Party Starter', about us.
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  • Hanging in Humid Hanoi

    22 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Our first morning in Hanoi started off like any good morning should, with a early morning run. We chose a nearby lake to run around, but had to negotiate the narrow streets within the old town which were already buzzing with millions of scooters. We set off from our hotel with the receptionists laughing that we were already too late at 7am, but we went anyway and when we finally got to a street that was wide enough for us to run down without being mowed down, we started a slow jog. 30 seconds later I had pulled my hamstring but not wanting to prove the receptionists right we decided to "walk it out". We got back to the hotel about 1 hour later and thanks to the humidity, it looked like we had just done a hard out work out. This is now my third injury of this holiday... travelling is hardcore or I am just an extreme gump.

    After a delicious buffet breakfast complete with rice noodles and papaya galore we headed towards Hoa Lo Prison (otherwise known as the Hanoi Hilton) and on the way made a quick stop at a local coffee shop where we tried Vietnamese coffee delicacies. Jamie had "Egg Coffee" which consisted of raw whipped eggs, coffee and condensed milk and I had a special coffee made with coconut milk, condensed milk and coffee. Both were absolutely delicious and we had the added bonus of making friends with the cutest cat ever, who I named Zeus. I wanted to steal him as much as I have wanted to steal Chinese and Vietnamese babies, but Jamie keeps ruining all my fun. At least I am moving in a more acceptable direction by wanting to steal pets instead of children.

    When we finally got to the Prison, I was disgustingly sweaty (im so sexy) so a beeline was made for the nearest fan while reading up about the Prison's history. It was incredibly sad learning about the atrocities that have been committed here by the Chinese, French and more recently and famously the Americans. Roaming around the city, you can certainly see the Chinese and French influences remaining from their respective occupations here but impressively the strength of the Vietnamese culture shines through and their hard fought resistance against the respective revolutions has certainly won out.

    After the Prison we decided to wander down to a big park and lake located south of the old town. The park was like a desolute creepy childrens themepark with old uninhabited rides dotted throughout. There was however, an outdoor gym with a few shirtless Vietnamese men working out. Oh la la. We decided to join them for a few minutes as running was now out of the question. After our brief workout we decided to reward ourselves with a lunch of champions - ice cream and beer, whilst discussing our plans of what to do when we are back in good ol NZ. Im not the biggest beer drinker but this weather makes me want to drink anything cold and the beer is so cheap.

    Our next stop was another bar, but more importantly - a bar with a view of the Hoam Kiem lake. So, we headed north until we reached the lake and made our way up the tallest building that we could find (about 6 stories) to have more beer and mojitos. Mojitos here are about 3 pounds so I am in Mojito heaven. After our stop we decided to go check out the Dong Xuan market near our hotel where they sold lots of cheap chinese merchandise, food and animals for pets or eating including big turtles. I wanted to buy one to set it free but couldnt think of anywhere that the turtle would actually be safe to live a carefree happy turtle life without being recaptured for culinary purposes.

    All this walking was making us hungry, so we decided to have a snack and went to a restaurant nearby our hotel. I ordered normal things like vegetarian rice noodle fresh spring rolls and Jamie decided to eat some locusts. Disgusted, I told him he wasn't getting a kiss for the rest of the night. I decided to put some distance between me and locust breath man and went for a 60 minute foot massage which only cost £10 pounds. The massage man had hands of a genius and it was bloody amazing.

    I didnt want to walk ever again because my feet now felt so amazing but we had made plans to meet up with Aisha and 1 hour later we were walking to her hostel to hit the beer street for a few drinks before heading for dinner. We found a bar that was having a happy hour where we could get two gin and tonics for just over £2 pounds, this was even more incredible when we got the drinks and discovered it was mainly gin with very little tonic. After two of these I was feeling incredibly drunk and hungry, so we went to a nearby restaurant for some bun cha. As we were eating our meal we overheard a group of Indian men behind us doing rounds of shots. It wasnt long until we were joined by two very drunk Vietnamese men who were with the group of Indian Men (doing "business") and who had the biggest bloody hipflask I have ever seen filled with Vietnamese Vodka. They took an instant liking to Jamie and offered all of us some shots. Jamie and Aisha were game but I was a little suspect so had already come up with my "Im Pregnant" excuse and discretly pushed my beer over to Jamie's side of the table. Aisha let me smell hers and it certainly had a strong smell and it apparently tasted as bad as it smelt. Jamie, forever polite, said how much he enjoyed it and they proceeded to pour him a few more. After telling us that they were now marble traders after being kicked out of the UK for the illict trading of weed, they left the table to return to their Indian friends who they were doing "business" with. We decided to try and make a quick get away before they came back, but they caught us and convinced Jamie to come and join the group for some more shots.

    My poor little Jam was now feeling a bit drunk, so we decided to walk it off and headed to the Friday night markets where the middle of town was shut down to sell everything from Street Food to Clothes. At 11pm or so, I started to feel incredibly tired so left Aisha and Jamie to head to another bar while I headed back to the hotel to get my beauty sleep and an Ice Cream (dont judge me its hot).
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  • Food, Glorious Food

    24 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    By this morning, we had already explored the Old Town of Hanoi, and were looking for something more to see. We decided on a circumnavigation of Ho Tay, the largest lake in Hanoi. If I remember the display at the Hanoi Hilton rightly, it is also the lake that John McCain had the misfortune to land in, prior to his capture, imprisonment, and torture.

    Launching ourselves into an exciting day of walking, we made our way to the lake, which we had reached on our earlier aborted attempt to go for a run. And from there it was just a matter of keeping the lake on our left hand side. The use of the word lake to describe this body of water, was more than a bit opptimistic however. It seemed to more rather large stagnant, and polluted pond. It stunk, it was littered with rubbish, and a had a wonderful sheen from all the petrochemicals floating over its surface. That didn't stop the locals from fishing in the murky waters, or raising their chickens and turkeys on the water's edge, before they became dinner at a later date. This city based small scale argiculture was a bit different, but perhaps it is something that the Western world can learn from in the future.

    Making our way around the lake, it quickly became apparent that it was less a lake, and more a fresh water sea. Certainly too far for us to contemplate walking around in a day, while staying comfortable. We decided we needed to change our plans, and headed to the nearest coffee shop to consider this exciting pivot in our plan.

    The first stop on the revised plan was a temple, pretty close to the coffee shop we had just stopped at. So far as temples go, it was pretty similar to many other buddhist temples that we had also seen. In Vietnam however, this was the first one we had seen that was full of Chinese pictographs, rather than Vietnamese in written in latin script. While there, as is customary in Vietnam, Courtney was accosted by a lady trying to sell awful postcards. She persisted with Courtney for a few minutes, even tucking her postcards into Courtney's bag to try and get her to buy them. As Courtney said no repeatedly, the lady tired to suggest that she was pregnant, and needed the money for her unborn baby.

    Unfortunately, for the Vietnamese lady, and many other hawkers we might meet on the way home, I have adopted a rather severe policy of not giving them a penny. It is the result of having been done a few times for rather modest sums of money, We all have, and yet it never feels wonderful when you work it out. So for this hawker who may or may not have been pregnant, I came to Courtney's rescue by removig the postcard wedged in Courtney's bag, shoving it back in the hand of the hawker, looking her in the eye and telling her no. When she interjected with something about her baby, she only got another no from me.

    If she was pregant and looking for money to feed her baby, then I was a bit more abrupt than I could have been. If she was not pregnant, and she certainly wasn't showing, then I wasn't abrupt enough. And this is the problem with hawkers, and selling things to people unsolicitied. In so many cases, the potential customer is going to either resent themselves for being had, or resent the fact that they are being approached unsolicited. In this part of the world, it is going to happen far more, but that doesn't change the fact that it weighs on the conscience when people use a sob story to sell you something.

    Personal introspection over for the day, we carried on to Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum. It was closed. This was annoying. But it serves us right for not doing the research. It isn't uncommon for 'attractions' like this to be closed on one or two odd days each week, or during the middle of the day. For us, the mausoleum was closed for the day, and was not opening again, any time soon. WIth that we decided to visit the Army Museum, and inform ourselves a bit more about the military history of Vietnam, which began so much earlier than the United States ill-fated intervention.

    Wandering through the musuem we learned about the the occupation of Vietnam by the Chinese, the French, and of course the Americans, before reunification and independence in the 1970's. While there, we were approached yet again, this time by someone claiming to be from the tourism ministry. It transpired that he was doing a survey for the tourism ministry. Having done the survey, the next question was if we would put our names in his book of interviewees. This was when the request for money came. Having had an inkling that this was coming, or names had been written in his little book os illegibly that I may as well have been writing in arabic script. He got nothing from me, and left rather angry that he got nothing too.

    For the second time in the day, it was time for some self reflection. How to deal with such people. You can be horrible to everyone, so that no one will come near you. Or you can be the polite person you were raised to be, and have people try to take advantage, at an emotional cost to yourself. So you take the high road, and hope that repeated attempts to take advantage don't take too much of a toll. Being an asshole to those that might approach you, will for now take a greater emotional toll. Hopefully that remains the case, but only time will tell.

    Wiser in the our knowledge of Vietnamese history, which in so many cases is one of conflict, we headed back to the hotel for a quick shower before heading out on a food tour that evening. Setting off with our guide at 1800, we headed directly to the first street food vendor of the night. Though it was a group tour, we were the only ones on it, which was pretty good.

    The tour was well worth it, if for nothing else than to understand how the street food world works, how much things cost, and what the etiqutte is. The best thing we had was definitely the the che, aka cold sweet soup. It is a mixture of green beans, black beans, coconut, lotus fruit, and somekind of gelatinous leaf product. It is entirely vegetarian, and incredibly tasty.

    Feeling very full, and very hot, we made our way back to the hotel after the tour, to get an early night ahead of our trip to Halong Bay tomorrow. We'll have to be up at 0600. Everthing starts nice and early in this part of the world.
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  • Halong Bay - the Descending Dragon

    24 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    After an early morning start, we jumped on a bus with our cruise provider who would drive us the 4 hours to Halong Bay. The bus winded its way through rice crops and small Vietnamese villages and stopped at a Arts centre for disabled people who have been affected by the use of Agent Orange in the Vietnamese war. According to the people that work there, the centre employs over 300 disabled people with about 60% of the profits going directly to them. Pretty cool, if true.

    We arrived in Halong Bay around 11.30am and awaited the boarding of our ship in a room likened to a Greenhouse. We met two lovely English girls - Liz and Beth, who had been travelling through Myanmar and now Vietnam. We struck up an instant friendship and proceeded to spend the rest of the day with them discussing everything from health psychology to politics and our train trip through Russia.

    Once on board the boat, it was time to get fed and we sat down ready for our very gluttonous 6 course meal. My vegetarian option was fantastic, but massive and couldnt even attempt to eat it all. After lunch we got put onto a small boat and went kayaking through the islands and caves where we got to see Monkeys and some absolutely beautiful scenary. I was super excited as this was the first time I have ever seen Monkeys in the wild even though the number of tourists visiting them and feeding them means they arent really "wild" anymore. I was also so excited to be doing some sembalence of exercise, that I broke out my inner olympic kayaker and tried to take off across lake. Being a 2 person kayak, Jamie acted as my handbrake and told me to calm down and enjoy the scenary. We admired the beautiful Karst rock formations and sealife in the form of crabs and slowly made our way back to the boat.

    Once back on board the boat, we were taken to a small island where we hiked to the top to catch some pretty impressive panoramic views of the bay with hordes of other tourists of the 100's of boats dotted throughout the bay. We made our way back down and went for a swim in a small bay made even smaller by the buoys which constrained the swimming area. I managed to get in a couple of strokes of butterfly and then just proceeded to float around like the lazy tourist I am slowly becoming.

    It was time for happy hour - the most important hour of the day, so we jumped back on board and headed straight for the bar where all the cocktails were buy 1 get one free. I decided to make the most of this special offer and drank about 6 cocktails in the space of two hours (I had to try ever frozen dacqiri on offer - geez dont judge me 😉) and spoke more to Liz and Beth about their travels through Vietnam so far. We now have some fabulous tips for Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh. Before we knew it was time for dinner which was another massive 6 course meal. The lights went out, the music started and our spring rolls were brought in on laterns in the pitch black. Food is treated like royalty here (as it should be) and I love it!

    After dinner, we headed back up to the "Playground" being the top floor of the boat (aka party central) and ordered some soft drinks snd pineapple juice while Jamie headed back to the room to grab the illegal Midori. We watched the bay lit up like a christmas tree from the lights from all the other cruise ships while discussing Trump, War, Syria and Brexit. I can certainly tell I am getting older and more wise by the content of my drinking conversations. Teenage Courtney = boys, tv shows, swimming, gossip. Mature Courtney = war, terrorism, the state of our economy, the state of our world, job satisifaction (or lack thereof) and gossip. When did life get so dark?

    Being the Party Animals of the boat, Liz, Beth, Jamie and I stayed up until Midnight while the rest of our boat was fast asleep. We decided to call it a night because we had Tai Chi to do in the morning.
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  • Halong Bay - Day 2

    25 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The day started early. 0600 early. Too early. But this was when Tai Chi on the top deck started, and we wanted to be there to give it a go. What better setting to do Tai Chi, than in the breaking dawn, while surrounded by the stone pinnacles of Ha Long Bay. It would have been easier to get up if not for the fact that we had been up too late the night before drinking malibu with Beth and Liz. It was too late to do anything about when the alarm went off though.

    The tai chi was not strenuous, but was surprising harder than anticipated. Holding your limbs outstretched for extended periods can certainly cause some strain. Also, we are hopeless at tai chi. We couldn't get the flowing movements right. It will take some more time than one go at this to get it right. Fortunately we have plenty of time left in life to pick up those skills.

    The next appointment of the day, was a small breakfast at 0700. Things start earlier in Vietnam than they do at home. Perhaps that should read South-East Asia in general. Breakfast consisted of some Vietnamese breakfast soup (the name escapes me), and french pastries. The soup was good, the pastries, not so much.

    Following breakfast we had a few minutes to have a quick shower, before disembarking the big boat, and heading to a cave system on one of the many islands. Once there we were joined by 100's of people from other boats, doing much the same thing. We had travelled to Surprise Cave, which was the last of a three chamber system. The name Surprise comes from the fact that of the three chambers, the last is about 100 times bigger than the first two, and was hence a real surprise to the first people to enter the cave.

    The cave system was also reasonably unique in that it had developed above sea-level, then been plunged underwater once upon a time, before being raised high and dry out the water once more as sea-levels changed. The effect of being underwater has meant that the roof of the cave was a beautiful smooth appearance. It looks artificial, but is instead the effect of waves on the soft limestone roof of the cave system. After about 45 minutes in the cave, it was time to head back to the mothership, for brunch, and to make our way back to dry land.

    Once back on the boat, we had our brunch, which was really a five course lunch. After the mountain of food we had eaten the day before, and the earlier breakfast, it was difficult to swallow the food, inspite of how delicious it was. The conversation across the table was a good way to slow down our consumption of food, and the topics ranged from the New Zealand property market, to the life of a caterer, to the pride of the French when it comes to their food.

    And before we knew it, we were back at the harbour, hoping off the boat, and hopping on a bus to get us back to Hanoi. We had the obligatory stop at some awful tourist shop built around a nice block of toilets, and got back to Hanoi, at the height of rush hour. Navigating the streets in a bus was both exciting and terrifying. It was exciting in that we could relax and watch the world around us, safe in the knowledge, that in any collision we would come off uninjured. It was terrifying in that the driver knew he was invincible, and drove through the sea of moped and scooter drivers on the assumption that his vehicle was bigger, and if you were on a bike, and didn't get out the way, then it was your own fault for becoming a red stain on his bus and/or the road.

    Arriving back at the hotel. We were pretty tired, and fancied getting a good night's sleep. If we ever catch up on our sleep, we seem to ruin it the very next night by staying out late. But we are on holiday, and sometimes that means getting up early, and some times it means staying out late. Either way, we enjoy ourselves, though we may need a holiday once we get home to recover.

    And so the day ended with a quick walk across the Old Town to get dinner at an Indian restaurant - we fancied something different - and a quick walk back, before a shower and sleep. Courtneys ex boss - Angela, from Lloyds was also in town with her family, but unfortunately due to limited wifi access while out and about, an attempt to meet up didnt go as hoped with communication only being made later on in the evening once we arrived back at the hotel. We then discovered we were on opposite sides of town from each other and they had to be on a train to Sapa at 9pm so there was no time for even a quick hello. Courtney, feeling a wee bit sad about not seeing Angela, fell asleep being consoled by Teemu who continues to eat honey even though we are in Vietnam. It appears he has no interest in rice noodles or Bun Cha. And with that another day in Vietnam was over, I believe that KISS wrote a song about this. I think the title is 'Crazy Nights'
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  • A Train to Dong Hoi

    26 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Another early morning start today to ensure we arrive in time for our train leaving the station at 9am which is destined for Dong Hoi. Our journey time today is a lot shorter than previous journeys with an arse on seat time of 10 hours.

    We arrived at the station after weaving our way through the small streets of Hanoi and millions of scooters and had plenty of time spare to pick up my fav drink - iced vietnamese coffee with condensed milk. We found our platform and jumped on the train to find out seats. We had a four seater table and ended up sharing with an older vietnamese gentleman and a mother with her 2 year old child who seemed to be in awe of Jamie and I (and who wouldn't be right?). Behind us, we had another young child (about 7 or 8 years old) who was very interested in everything we had ranging from my tablet, Jamies iPod and our food.

    To be honest, there isn't a huge amount to report today. So i thought I would just list some interesting observations

    🔶The train was a bit older than the ones we had been on previously and instead of having a restaurant car, people come through the carriage with a trolley selling everything from curry, steamed corn, donuts and rice. Unlike our previous journeys, you would never go hungry on this train.
    🔶There were a number of cathedrals spotted in and amongst the country on our train journey which was extremely odd considering the main religion of this country is Folk Religion, followed by Buddhism.
    🔶The high water mark, indicated by the discoloration caused by mud on the trees indicated that the water level in Typhoon season was as high as 5m above the normal water level.
    🔶The train is quite slow and we ended up being nearly 1 hour behind schedule, but was pleasant enough and was nice to be sitting with the locals.

    Once we arrived in Dong Hoi, we grabbed a taxi to our hotel which is on the waterfront, pleasing Jamie. We checked into our room and decided to eat in the hotel restaurant as we were tired from the long day of travel. We ordered a salad and what turned out to be a whole chicken cut up and presented on a large dish, bones and all. I didnt look at the plate as soon as it was placed but apparently the head of the chicken was also cooked, split in two and presented as the main event on the dish. Jamie fortunately moved it before I could see, but once I was finished eating he proceeded to show me the head, to which I almost vomited and had to excuse myself from dinner for the rest of the evening to run upstairs and away from chicken. I know, I know, im such a GIRL.

    Another day down, and I can safely say that Vietnam is one of the most amazing places I have ever travelled to. The people are friendly, the food is amazing and the culture is beautiful. Im so glad we have another 2.5 weeks here.
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  • Exploring Phong Nha

    26 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    This morning started at the very reasonable time of 6:00. We were getting picked up by the tour bus at 7:45, so need to get ourselves in order before then. As we sat in the lobby of the hotel, we waited in the presence of the T&T FC team, who were similarly waiting for a bus to come to pick them up.

    Having been picked up by our tour bus, we headed out of Dong Hoi towards Phong Nha Village, about 45 minutes. As we drove through Dong Hoi, we rolled past a small army of men running with AK 47s dangled over their shoulders. Enquirying as why there would be a large number of men in civilian clothing, running through the middle of town with guns on, we were realiably informed that there is a large army garrison in town, and the men running through town, were in fact the soldier completing their morning PT. The heat and humidity were already pretty stifling, despite the fact it wasn't even 0800, so these guys running, at a decent pace, were probably not the sort of people you wanted to meet in dark alley.

    Clearing the outskirts of Dong Hoi, we continued into the countryside, through paddy fields, plantations, and water buffalo making their way to their local field for a bit of munch. The scenery changed around us we drove, turning from flat coastal plain, to undulating hills, to the towering limestone escarpments of the Phong Nha National Park. Arriving at Phong Nha village, it was time to pick up some more people, to fill out the bus, that until that point, included just the tour guide, driver, and the two of us. This was slightly problematic for some reason, but after 15 minutes, the van was loaded, and it was time to head deep into the natural park, to explore its beauty.

    Our first stop on the trip, was the Eight Ladies Cave, so called because of the eight ladies that took shelter there during the Vietnam War when the road the cave is next to, formed part of the great logistical effort that was the Ho Chi Minh Trail. As the road was bombed, the unlucky eight sheltered in the cave, only to be sealed inside what would become their tomb, when a bomb hit the entrance to the cave and collapsed. Those inside survived for days before finally succumbing to their fate. A pretty horrible way to go. Their bodies were only recovered in 1996, and now a temple exists to honour their memory.

    The next stop on the tour was the Paradise Cave. According to the marketing, this is "probably" the third largest cave in the world, and it was only discovered in the past twenty years. So if you want to become an adventurer, and accomplish something no one else has, perhaps consider a spelunking holiday to Vietnam, to search for the entrance of another cave.

    Arriving at the car park, we took to some golf carts, to take us a bit closer to the cave entrance. There was still a 500m walk to go however, up the worlds slipperiest, mossy concrete path imaginable. Despite our investment in sensible walking shoes, we both came close to hitting the deck on multiple occasions. And further along the trail, we ran into obstactles of the human kind, that took a special liking to Courtney. A group of Vietnamese ladies was making the trek to Paradise Cave too, and took it upon themselves to variously help Courtney by pushing her in the back, up the hill, and then grabbing hold of the back of Courtney's top, to be jokingly pulled up the mountain. Without the ability to communicate, it was all a bit surreal, and a bit weird. We would spend the next hour or so, trying to avoid this same group of Vietnamese ladies with Courtney hiding in between the three of us whenever they came near, and fortunately, they were able to find some other victims, as time passed.

    Paradise Cave is incredibly large once you get inside through the comparatively tiny 2m by 2m entrance. The main chamber is 1km long, about 50m tall, and maybe 50-100m wide. This was a far more specatular cave than Surprise Cave that we saw in Ha Long Bay. It also provided the opportunity to talk rugby with Will, an English guy on the tour, something that had been lacking from our lives in the previous few weeks. Will's travelling companion, Anja was unimpressed with the turn of the conversation to sports, given the beauty of our surroundings, and made sure the conversation turned to a more inclusive topic, which is fair enough I suppose.

    After Paradise Cave, it was time for some lunch before heading into our second cave, the Dark Cave. Lunch was pretty damn delicious, for meat-eaters and vegetarians, and consisted of sharing plates, with ingredients used to construct fresh spring rolls. The quality of the meat was a bit dicey, but it was well cooked, so hopefully, safe enough to eat. No one keeled over in pain later in the day, so it must have been fine.

    Following our hearty lunch, it was time to zip-line across a river to the Dark Cave entrance. This was slightly scary, given the height of the zip-line, but we both made it across the river, only to have to jump into the water immediately to get into the cave. Climbing and crawling your way through a cave system barefoot, with just a helmet and lamp for protection might seem a bit relaxed, but there was method to the madness. You see, the Dark Cave contains within it, a supposedly therapeutic mud, that washes in with the rainy season each year, and to take full advantage of that mud, you can't be wearing that much.

    Crawling, sliding and falling through various side passages, we eventually ended up at a mud bath, which was a rather strange experience. It was liquid, like water, but was so dense that you couldn't sink in it. In fact, if you tried to get your shoulders under the water, you needed the weight of multiple people pushing down on you, because of your positive buoyancy. It would be the ideal place to learn to swim, as the chance of your head finding its way underwater is slim to none. Aside from the physical properties of the medium we found ourselves in, it was could fun to wallow in the mud, like Farmer Brown's prize pigs. A group of 15-20 people, of all ages, reverted to a child-like state for 15-20 minutes, giggling and laughing like school kids.

    Dragging ourselves out the mud, we made our way back to the cave entrance through as much water as we could find to clean ourselves off. Despite our best efforts, we'll be finding mud in the shower, for the next few days, I am sure. We then kayaked back across the river, to the showers, the bus, and civilisation. After some further attempts to clean off the muc, we repaired to some benches to indulge in some rum and coke, as well as conversation with the rest of the tour group.

    And then it was time to head back to the hotel. On the way, we passed over a bridge that had become a makeshift car park for what seemed like 100s of scooters. As it turned out, the group were searching for an 11 year old child that had gone missing from near the bridge. All they found was the school bag, and the assumption was that the child had been swept away by flooding in the area a few days before. Sadly, they were looking for the body.

    Having been reminded of the fragility of life, we arrived back in Phong Nha Village, to offload some of the people on the tour, including Will and Anja. They are travelling to Hue tomorrow, the same as us, so we'll try and catch up with them, once we get there.

    Arriving back at the hotel, we made yet another attempt to clean all the mud off ourselves in the shower. Judging by the state of the shower afterwards, we hadn't done a very good job earlier in the day. And then it was time to get some dinner.

    After the episode with the chicken's head last night, and the very western menu offered in the hotel, we ventured out, into the great wide yonder of Dong Hoi. Unfortunately, I think that in the high season, our hotel is very much a resort hotel, being across the road from the beach. All the other hotels in the area are similar, and so, there aren't too many restaurants to choose from. But after a bit of searching, we did find somewhere to eat, and both had a very nice vegetarian bun, and a couple of drinks. Pudding consisted of a couple of ice Vietnamese coffees.

    And that was the day over.
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  • Hey Hue!

    28 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After a quick visit in Dong Hoi, it was onwards and southwards to Hue. We jumped on the 6.40am train which was delayed by 40 minutes and got comfy in our carriage which only had about 5 people. Jamie was content watchingi The Walking Dead while I desperately wanted to finish my third book of the trip, while taking in the scenary outside. 3 hours later, we found ourselves pulling into the station and jumped into a taxi to take us to our hotel.

    The taxi driver did his best to con us by saying it would cost 100,000 dong to our hotel even though he had a meter in his taxi. Jamie insisted that we went on the meter much to the taxi drivers disgust. 10 minutes later and with 38,000 dong on the meter we arrived at our hotel. The taxi driver refused to drive us into the hotel carpark where the baggage guys were waiting and dumped us and our bags on the side of the road with the doorman having to come to us while negotiating the traffic.

    After our less than fun start in Hue, our check in comparatively, was pretty awesome. We went to the front desk where we were told we would be taken to the 10th floor for a VIP check in. Bemused, as we didn't think that we were that important, we were accompanied by a hotel staff member who took us up in the lift and once we arrived at the 10th floor we were served drinks and fruit while we were explained the facilities of the hotel. As we had got an early train, we had arrived at the hotel well before the normal check in time. That being said, we were assured that we wouldn't have to wait around as housekeeping went and cleaned our room straight away. 15 minutes later, we were in our room. The service was pretty damn exceptional!

    Once checked in we made our way down to the waterfront, and the Walking Street in search of lunch. However, we couldn't find anything open except a coffee place so it was time for a Vietnamese coffee before making our way back towards our hotel in search for actual food. We ended up at a place called "Mandarin Cafe" with walls adorned with impressive local photographs taken by the owner of the cafe. After lunch we headed across the river to the Hue local market where we perused the local delicacies and observed the way of Hue life.

    Pretty tired after yet another early start we made our way back to our hotel via a walk through the riverside park complete with art installations and numerous insistent offers of boat rides along the river. We also identified a few bars for later in the evening as we had plans to meet up with Anja and Will who were also now in Hue.

    Not even 1 hour later, we found ourselves at Century Bar with Anja and Will, enjoying some very heavy and loud trance music while drinking some pretty decent Mojitos for just over £2 a pop. This place is definetely my heaven!
    After a few cocktails, we decided to make a move to grab some dinner and walked back down to the Walking Street where we found an outdoor restaurant situated right beside the Perfume River. After some pretty decent mojitos at the first bar, I was let down massively at this place with a drink that was very watered down. Not only that but my main meal (being claypot aubergine) just turned out to be steamed aubergine with no sauce or other vegetables so I had to order another dish which was only served well after everyone else had finished. By this stage, we were now being serenaded by what we thought was some very loud and very bad kareoke but turned out to be 2 legitimate male singers playing to a crowd of about 25 local people. We quickly moved on before ear drums burst and found ourselves shopping up a storm in a lantern shop where Anja and I made some purchases.

    We decided to go and find more drinks before we called it a night and went to the rooftop bar at the DMZ restaurant where Will and Jamie proceeded to share 3 litres of beer between themselves, while Anja and I, being the more sensible pair of the group, stuck to one cocktail each. Jamie and Will thought they had all the time in the world, but as Anja and I were getting tired, the boys had to revert to their younger days and downed the beer in good time.

    And with that, we left the bar and went our seperate ways with promises to meet up briefly in Hoi An before Anja and Will leave to head to Nga Trang.
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  • Hanging around the Imperial City

    28 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We had a relatively relaxed start to this morning, though the noise as we ate breakfast, was certainly not very relaxed. It would seem that come the weekend, all and sundry in Vietnam, make their way to our hotel, to have a buffet breakfast. Compared to yesterday morning, when there were five people in the restaurant, including us, there were about 100 this morning.

    People or no people, there was plenty of food to be had, and plenty of mango to eat too. That was the most important thing.

    Having had our fill of breakfast delights, we took to the streets, and headed for the Forbidden City of Hue, which was a short 20 minute walk away. By the time that we arrived, the limited cloud cover that existed as we left the hotel had boiled off, and we were both well and truly warm. Hot is a better description. We both looked like we had just stepped out the shower, having worn our clothes in. This is Vietnam however, and there were plenty of other tourist, looking just like us.

    For those that have been to the Forbidden City in Beijing, the Forbidden City in Hue is similar - but different. Unlike in Beijing, you can move about Hue, without having to fight through a sea of people. There is also plenty of green space in Hue, unlike in Beijing, where every bit of ground has been tiled over for many, many, years. The green space has been helped somewhat through the efforts of the French, and the Americans after them. Sadly the enlightened powers of the Western world so fit on multiple occasions to bomb the Forbidden City in Hue. Check the photos for a look at what its like. It is also a much, much, better experience than Beijing,

    After spending many hours wandering the avenues, and parks of the Forbidden City, decided to have a wander around the Citadel. That's the old town that exists within the walls of the city. The Forbidden City, is just a small part of the Citadel as a whole. For the most part, the buildings within the greater Citadel, are no different to those that we have seen earlier in our travels through Vietnam. They are mostly modern, and those that aren't, are old purely because whoever owns them, doesn't have the money to tart them up.

    On our travels, we happened upon a few bodies of water, which were sizable, stagnant, and stinking. We took this as a sign to take our leave from the Citadel, and head back to the hotel. On the way, we passed out of the Citadel, through a different gate, and had an ice cream at the local trivalent of McDonalds, for 3,000VND per ice cream. That is a pittance in anyone's book.

    Getting back to the hotel, Courtney was dispatched to the spa to get a massage, ahead of our trip back out for dinner. After an hour of having the accumulated stress and strained kneaded out of her, her brain had similarly been massaged into a state of calm/sleep. But we needed to get some dinner, and so out into the dark night we went.

    Having settled on a local place round the corner from the hotel, we got a table, and got ourselves seated. Unfortunately, as with many smaller restaurants, the place had no online menu, and Courtney had not been able to do the same checks as she might otherwise have. The end result, was very little on the menu suitable for vegetarians.

    We ordered something small though, which turned into something pretty large when it actually arrived. It had a bit of pork in it, which on first glance, looked rather penis-y. And given the price, it would not have been a surprise if the pork, was in fact, the dismembered member of Babe, former pig in the city. In the end, it was ground pork that made been molded into the shape of a phallus, and then sliced into more manageable, bite-sized pieces, leaving just the tip intact for show. Courtney was unimpressed with so much in the food, though I cannot fault the taste.

    Having finished the pork, we headed on to another restaurant for Courtney to get something a bit more vegetarian friendly - tofu and eggplant. It wasn't even penis shaped.
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  • God damn, its hot

    29 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    For our last day in Hue, we decided to take it easy and start the day slowly. Unfortunately, it gets light so early here that I am awake as soon as the sun comes up (normally before 6am), I hit the unconditioned gym and ran as far as I could before I died of heat exhaustion. Luckily, our hotel room is the temperature of an ice box and I could cool down within a few minutes. After a quick cold shower, we headed to our delicious buffet breakfast, where large quantities of rice noddles filled with weird and wonderful things were sampled.

    After breakfast, we tried to decide on our transport option for tommorow where we travel from Hue to Hoi An. We had the option of a bus which would take us straight to Hoi An or a private car and driver that would take us to landmarks along the way where we could stop as long as we want. We decided on the latter, partly because that meant we had a bit more time to muck around in the morning.

    By the time we had finished our research and made a decision, it was nearly 10.30am so we made our getaway and started our 6km walk to the Pagoda. The walk was relatively uneventful, we waved to various children, stopped for yet another vietnamese coffee and dodged countless scooters and hawkers before we finally made it, 1.5 hours later hot and sweaty at the Pagoda. We wandered around desperately trying any means necassary to cool down and I took to standing in front of a fan for 10 minutes while trying to entertain the chubbiest vietnamese toddler I have seen to date while Jamie just stared on ashamed of my inability to deal with my own sweatiness.

    We decided on a less physical mode of transportation back to our hotel and settled on a private boat cruise back to the walking street we had been at 2 nights previously. Jamie, being chief negotiator was initially quoted 350,000 dong but managed to knock 150,000 off the price by walking away saying "too much, too much". 200,000 was still well over priced but we couldnt be bothered negotiating anymore.

    On board the boat, we enjoyed the sweet sweet breeze while admiring the heavily laden cargo vessels which had bows barely above the waters surface. During this time, we noticed that our boat started veering towards some anchored boats well away from the location we were due to be dropped off at and sure enough 5 minutes later, we were on the bankside being told to get off the boat. Jamie, unimpressed, considering we had already paid way too much for this service told the captain that we were not getting off the boat until he dropped us off at the preagreed location. The man seemed to agree but we couldnt figure out if he was going to take us where we wanted to go or straight back to the Pagoda. The boat set off again and panic set in when it appeared he was going back to the Pagoda but he was just doing a tricky manouvere, and 10 minutes later we were finally in the right place. Jamie and I pride ourselves on being good, polite and reasonable people but when people try to take advantage of this and try it on, we find it very very difficult to deal with.

    After our eventful boat ride, we decided to go and get a spot of lunch, and made our way to Ninas cafe which had the best fresh vegetarian spring rolls and aubergine I have tasted in Vietnam to date. As it was so hot, we decided to head back to our hotel for a rest where we were going to have a swim but as there was a problem with our hotel door we ended up in the bar drinking beer and wine instead. When we were finally back in our room, we caught up on the daily show before we headed out for dinner at a local Indian restaurant as we are a little noddled out.
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  • The Road to Hoi An

    30 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Today started with a very short walk from the front of our hotel, to the back of the car that would take us the 160km from Hue to Hanoi. On the way, we would take in a few sights, and further our cultural understanding of Vietnam. Or at least that 's what we told ourselves.

    The first stop on our journey was Lang Co Beach. In the high season, when the beach would have been groomed each morning, before the local resorts disgorged their inhabitants, it would have been a fabulous spot. Unfortunately for us, being out of season, a large amount of detritus has built up around the high water mark, all along the beach. The plastic bottles, polyestyrene fishing floats, plastic bags did detract from the view. As did the hawkers on the beach.

    Having taken but two steps onto the beach, we were set upon by hawkers, trying to sell us all manner of awful, and expensive tat. They were also particularly persistent, given that we were the only ones on the beach, and they had no one else to focus on. It took some raised voices and finger pointing, after repeated polite requests to get them to a) stop following us, and b) piss off entirely.

    Retreating to the safety of the car, we then carried on towards Hoi An, via the Hai Van Pass. Throughout history, this pass has divided Vietnam in two, if not from a politcal prespective, certainly from a weather persepctive. North of the Hai Van Pass, cold air from China tends to make the climate cool and wet in the winter. South of the Hai Van Pass, the weather tends to be warmer and drier in the winter. Or so Wikipedia tells me.

    On our visit, the Hai Van Pass certainly lived up to its name. In Vietnamese, the name means ocean cloud pass, and as we passed the high point of the pass, we found ourselves travelling through the clouds that give the pass its name. This limited our visibility of the surrounding area, which is quite a shame, as from what we could see, it looked incredibly beautiful. The top of the pass is guarded by concrete pillboxes and bunkers built by the French first, and then the Americans a bit later. Going back even further, the pass has been considered a strategic point since the time of Christ. Though using him as a chronological reference point, seems quite strange in this part of the world.

    Our final stop before we got to Hoi An, was to investigate the Marble Mountains. As with so many places in Vietnam, the Marble Mountains are large limestone pinnacles, in an otherwise flat landscape. Taking a lift part of the the way up the main mountain, we began to explore all that there was to see. The top of the mountain had many different Buddhist shires. Some were in the open, looking out from the mountain top to the sea, or inland towards Danang. Other shrines were buried in the numerous caves that dotted the top of the mountain. Climbing through the dim, candle-lit passageways to these shrines, was ever so slightly hazardous, given the slick surface of the limestone steps that were used, and the initially intimidating sight of bat hanging above your head.

    And then it was on to Hoi An, whre we arrived at our hotel, in the early afternoon. Having checked-in, and dumped our bags in the room, we headed to the old town of Hoi An, making a pit stop along the way to get some food at a nice wee vegetarian restaurant. Getting into town, we caught up with Will and Anja very briefly, before they dissappeared to jump on the night bus to Nha Trang.

    We then spent the remainder of the evening, wandering through the streets of Hoi An's old town. Even in the off-season, it is still a very touristy place. The majority of people wandering around were tourists, many of whom are from France and Germany. The lanterns all over town were pretty cool too.

    And that was the day.
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  • Tailor Time

    31 de octubre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Our 2nd full day in Hoi An and our main goal today was to find a good tailor and get some stuff made. We had numerous recommendations from our hotel, our private car driver and friends, so I did the good tourist thing and looked on Trip Advisor to determine which one had the highest rating.

    Being one who never likes making a decision without knowing all the facts, we decided to select the top 5 on trip advisor and go to each one to look at fabrics and the quality of the service. We went to the top rated shop first called "Huang Tailors" and as soon as we walked in the door we were instantly approached and then followed around the store by numerous assistants. Jamie wasnt keen on the fabrics there and I wasnt keen on being stalked, so we left the shop whilst being hounded to stay by various people. Our next stop was a few doors down and Minh Hin Tailors who were recommended by our private driver the day before. In contrast with the pushiness of the first shop, the ladies in here welcomed us with water and encouraged us to sit while we discussed what we wanted. 1 hour later, Jamie had picked out his suit and shirt colours (we even managed to convince him not just white shirts which he originally wanted) and I had designed a dress to wear to Liza and Pavels wedding in February. Before we committed, we went and had another Vietnamese coffee to discuss the choices to make sure we were happy before we went ahead.

    The coffee worked wonders and we made our way back to the shop. It was approximately 11.30am at this point and they asked us to come back at 6pm that night for our first fitting. Just crazy! So we set out on the Hoi An streets to explore to fill in time before 6pm. The weather was a bit iffy today so we spent the majority of our time in the old town checking out the local shops and markets while having a mojito here and there in between tropical downpours. We went and checked out the Japanese Bridge which you have to pay to go on but if you walk to the next street and cut down a side alley you come out on the other side of the bridge where there are no ticket checks. Bonus. On the other side of the bridge there is a small touristy street filled with the normal tourist attire. We wandered the street and came across the cutest sight I think I have ever seen, 3 vietnamese babies in walkers racing and chasing each other down the road. If my ovaries were not in overdrive already by all the cuteness I had seen so far, they definetely were now. I stopped to play with one of the babies, while his grandmother and Jamie looked on and laughed. As I worked out ways to steal one of the babies and get them back to NZ no questions asked, we made our way back to the bridge and enjoyed some Che on the waterside before we headed to a local restaurant to make the most of happy hour to fill in some more time.

    At 6pm we headed back to the tailor as promised and Jamie tried on his suits complete with waistcoats. I looked on in awe of my transformed handsome man and laughed at how he was being fauned over by 4 Vietnamese ladies. Then it was my turn to try on my dress which facilitated the right response from the crowd with oohs and awws being murmured as I walked out of the changing room. Perhaps they were being polite, but it worked.

    We got some final adjustments made and promised to come back tomorrow for our second fitting. The service is pretty marvellous. After all this shopping round it was time for dinner, so based on the recommendation from Liz and Beth we headed to Morning Glory where I enjoyed some delicious aubergine and tofu and Jamie tried a local delicacy "Chicken Rice". And with dinner and a wet walk back to our hotel where Jamie walked me through the biggest puddles, another day in Vietnam was over.
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  • Its Raining, Its Pouring

    1 de noviembre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    The weather today was not particularly wonderful. In fact it was pretty horrible. The rain was coming down in sheets, blown nearly horizontal by the strong breeze.

    This restricted all that we were able to do through the day. And so the day became pretty lazy, involving a late breakfast, some planning for travel and excursions later in our trip., and a lot of reading. The only time we got outside, had to be fitted in between the pouring rain. There was time to head to the tailor, for some further fitting, and there was time for Courtney to have three hours of pampering, at a massage parlour.

    That was the day. It was our first non-event day since we left the flat in London a month and a half ago.
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  • A bike ride to remember

    2 de noviembre de 2016, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I was going to start this blog by stating the day of the week, but im going to be honest, I have absolutely no idea what day of the week it is, let alone the date. Sure, sure, i could look and pretend I am in the know, but there is something theraputic in having absolutely no idea what day it is or how many days we have left to go. So, lets start by saying another day in Vietnam is another day of Awesomeness.

    I attempted to start my day as most of my days start with a nice long run, however, my body had other plans and an incredibly bad headache from the night before (probably induced by countless Mojitos) caused my head to throb with every step. I lasted 3 minutes before I abandoned any notion of a run and returned to the cool air conditioned hotel room where life again was amazing. After breakfast, we decided to take a couple of the hotel bikes and brave the streets of Hoi An, where our first stop was another visit to our new friends, the tailors, where, I tried on my dress again and then made a impulse buy by ordering a jacket made to measure. Apparently, it will be ready by the afternoon which is super convinient as we leave for Nga Trang tomorrow.

    We said our goodbyes with arrangements to return in the afternoon and made our way out to the main road and headed towards Bang Bo Beach where we rode through the rice fields and water buffalo all the while being side swiped by heavy winds coming in from the sea. It took a lot of strength just making sure that the bike travelled in the right direction and even more when I tried to ride one handed while taking photographs.

    After about 30 minutes of riding, we made it to the beach where we were welcomed with sea spray in the face and heavy winds pushing us and our bikes around like dolls. I now know the pain it is to wear glasses, as my sunglasses got covered in salt and I couldnt see a thing. My poor little lamb Jamie has to put up with this crap everyday. The beach wasnt really a beach more a bank of sandbags preventing the erosion of the little bit of beach that was now left. After seeing the ferocity of the waves, I could see why this was a necassity.

    We decided to cycle to the mouth of the river which was an out and back route from the beach. We rode past countless large beach resorts frequented by the western traveller, small restaurants and villages until we reached the lighthouse and the Vietnam Coastguard. We had a brief stop to look around and then decided it was time to head back to the hotel via back alleys into the neighbouring small villages. As we cycled around, the sound of laughter permeated the air and we observed countless neighbourhood card games, ladies cooking up a storm together and kids out playing or cycling around with one another. Its pretty beautiful and makes me remember, you really dont need much in this world to be happy - just good company, a roof over your head and some fabulous food 😋.

    We make our way back out to the main road, where all of a sudden, I turned around and realise that I am alone with Jamie no where in sight. I pulled over and waited for a few minutes and was getting ready to turn around where I saw my Jam emerge in the distance walking his bike around the corner. Turns out Jamie rode his bike over a nail and now had a massive puncture in his front tyre. We were about 3km away from the hotel at this point, but fortunately these bikes are made for two. So Jamie jumped on the back of my bike and held onto his bike while I towed him and the bike back to the hotel. Before you think "man that was so unchilvarious of Jamie not to do any of the cycling", I can assure you he offered multiple times, but my absolute need to be in control and my fear of being on the back of a bike while trying to steer another bike made the cycling option much more appealing. So we made our way slowly back while recieving glances from everyone that we went past or went past us. The ride was hard enough having to cycle for two people but made even more difficult with Jamies bike constantly pulling our bike to the right towards the side of the road. This got even more difficult when the road narrowed and we had to cross a bridge while being passed by buses and taxis honking their horns just to add to my stress levels. Nearing the hotel, we had to negotiate pot holes and flooding which had resulted from the large downpours over the last couple of days. Jamie said I did well to get us back through all that, but I think he did well managing to steer his bike while holding on to me. We could have just got a taxi back, but that would have been to easy.

    After giving my legs a rest in the comfort of our air conditioned room, I decided that I might be able to attempt another run, so headed back to hotel gym and this time managed 60 minutes of running bliss. After all of this, it was then time to head back to our tailors to pick up all of our wares and decided to walk into town given the events of this morning. When we arrived, our tailors fed us amazing Vietnamese snacks (which I am now obsessed with and may have gone out to buy some before writing this post) and more water while we tried everything on for the last time. We were then asked how we going to get all of this back to NZ, to which we said post as it was about 10kg worth of goods and 10kg more than either of us want to carry. The wonderful thing about Vietnam as they have thought of everything and 10 minutes later, a mobile post service arrived at our tailors with scales to weigh our items, pack them up ready to be sent and take payment for postage. This place is going to make me lazy. We waved goodbye to our goods with the hope of seeing them in a few months time.

    We made our way back to the hotel, where it was nearly time for me to go and get my second massage with my lady who has magic hands. The massage (80 minutes for $18 USD) involved her straddling me and using her body weight as pressure, contortion with my limbs bent into all various directions and traditional massage. Jamie asked me how this could possibly be relaxing and I agree that at the time it isn't overly relaxing when your legs are being bent at funny angles but its a good pain and afterwards you feel amaaaazing.

    After magic hands, Jamie came and met me and we walked back into town to find some dinner at Green Mango followed by a walk down to the river to see the lanterns. The recent rainfall had caused the river to raise by at least 1m with the waterfront area now completely flooded. My first thought was that this wouldnt be so wonderful for the locals with shops/restaurants located along the waterfront, but on second look most of these places had been built to cope with such an event.

    And with that, our time in Hoi An was over. We made our way back to the hotel and reminicised over the lovely town and the lovely people that frequent it. We will miss this place.
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