To Finland and Beyond

September - December 2016
A 95-day adventure by CJs Excellent Adventure Read more
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  • Day 1

    Leaving London - 3 months to get home

    September 13, 2016 in England ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Argh London. If you had asked us a few months ago whether we would miss you, the answer would have been a little hard for you to bare. We certainly have had a love/hate relationship with you. From amazing experiences at events like Wimbledon to the ritual weekend dance of dodging vomit walking to the gym, you have been blissfully annoying. Living here for the past 3 years (Yes 3!) has allowed us to experience a new way of doing things and we have been fortunate enough to also travel to so many new and exciting places which is almost impossible to do living on the other side of the world and earning NZD.

    I guess London, if we were to look back on our time together, we'd not only see your exciting never ending sleeplessness but also your geniune acceptance of all races, all cultures, living side by side and for the most part being treated very much alike. I guess that is what has made me proud to call myself a Londoner for a few years, even if people have been known to take a late night shit on our beautiful doorstep in Clapham (True Story).

    The hardest part of leaving any place that you have come to know, is leaving behind the people who have helped made it great. London, you have some bloody good people left here. People who will make others feel just as welcome as they have us, people who will make others laugh and people who will make this city just so much better for being in it. To all of those people who have made our lives here so much easier when we've been homesick or nervous or lonely, to those who have educated us on the "British" way of doing things, and most importantly to those who have become life long friends, from the bottom of our hearts, thank you. Our experiences here have been so greatly enhanced by having you in our lives (even if you continually get us drunk on mojitos/espresso martinis). Our door is always open, you just need to fly to the other side of the planet to come on in.

    So London. It is with great sadness that we must now go our seperate ways. Thank you for teaching us patience at train stations (haha jokes), for introducing us to all different types of cuisines we have never tried, for providing lots of little parks for squirrels and for being so bloody accessible that we could visit many of our dream destinations.

    As we take the train to Glasgow today, we embark on a three month travel odyssey. We will spend one more week in UK travelling around by car before we fly to Finland to commence our 9 country tour through Russia, Mongolia, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore all without stepping foot on a plane (with the exception of London- Finland) before arriving back in our beautiful NZ on the 23rd December. We plan to blog our entire journey, alternating days of writing so you can hear it from both sides. If there is anything you are keen to learn about or find out about, let us know and we will make a note to point it out.

    One adventure is over as another begins. Goodbye London. It has been a blast.

    To Finland and Beyond!

    Courtney and Jamie
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  • Day 3

    Glasgow to Fort William

    September 15, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    After the philosophocal undertones/overtones of yesterday's post, any semblance of contemplation about the move away from London was gone this morning. In the space of a day, contemplation has given way to the practicalities, and day to day planning of getting ourselves home.

    The day started early - but not too early - and after a quick breakfast, it was time to say goodbye to Mary and Lennoxtown for a few days, and set off on our journey to the Scottish Highlands.

    First stop was Loch Lomond. The water was clear, but low cloud circled the surrounding hills. There is a decent photo of it, so I won't waste my words trying to communciate the natural beauty of the scene. There were also brambles. Inordinate quanities of wild brambles, ripe and ready for the picking. We can confirm that the berries are both edible and delcious. So if you are in the vicinity of Loch Lomond, travelling on a budget at the end of summer, find the nearest bramble bush for a cheap meal.

    The second stop was Inverarary, for a look at the sea, and a spot of lunch. We can report that, yes, the sea does still smell like the sea. Living in London it's a smell you forget more often than is comfortable to admit. Lunch was a decent affair too, as we dined in a local hotel older than the USA, waited on by a staff from around the world, among patrons from the four corners of the globe. We might be out of London, but that doesn't mean that the rest of Great Britain isn't just as cosmopolitan.

    After our pitstop in Inveraray, it was on to Fort William via Glen Coe. Once the site of massacre, but today host to many hikers, rock climbers, and a German univerisity students of geology here on a field trip, Glen Coe is well worth a trip of its own. If we'd had more time, we'd have been hiking up the Devil's Stair Case with everyone else, instead we got our experience, mostly from the road side.

    And then we made it Fort William, and our accommodation for the night. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we'll be climbing Ben Nevis. We'll be up at the crack of dawn, so you'll have to make do with this brief entry, as it is definitely bed time now. Stay tuned for pictures from the summit tomorrow.

    PS - there is no spell check on this blog, so the odd typo may creep through, dependent on time of day / state of inebriation.
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  • Day 4

    Disaster on Ben Nevis

    September 16, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    It was a normal September morning in the Scottish HIghlands, when New Zealander, Courtney Fagan and Man who doesn't know where he is from, Jamie Armstrong arrived at the Glen Nevis Visitors Centre and embarked on their journey towards the highest peak in Great Britain.

    The majority of their walk was uneventful, Mr Armstrong tried to name all songs which had a step theme to it, and decided that Stairway to Heaven was the most appropriate song for their Journey. Miss Fagan decided she had enough of Mr Armstrong talking crap about stairs and pushed him down the mountain to show him what the stairs really felt like (in her mind). Their ascent continued and at about 800m the clouds set in, and Mr Armstrong could no longer see through his mist covered glasses. Miss Fagan took this as her opportunity to run and hide to scare Mr Armstrong, but got too cold because Mr Armstrong had to constantly stop because he couldn't see where he was going.

    Fast forward an hour, and Miss Fagan and Mr Armstrong reach the summit in a time of 2 hr 25 min - Not bad considering the mean time is 4 hours to reach the top, but when the record to run to the top and back is 1 hr 25 min, Miss Fagan felt slightly inadequate. Mr Armstrong reports that a few photos were taken, however due to Miss Fagan being a weak NZer and nearing hypothermia, the view of the heavy clouds and mist could not be enjoyed for more than 10 minutes."I told her to put more clothes on, but she just yelled at me and told me she didn't want another penguin biscuit". It was after this point where Miss Fagan conceeded to putting her gloves on but because her fingers oouldn't move anymore, Mr Armstrong had to dress her like a child "She couldn't move her fingers, so I did the manly thing and put her gloves on for her, except her little finger wouldn't fit because it was frozen solid at a 90 degree angle, It took me 5 attempts to get her gloves on, but eventually I covered her little sausages".

    Due to the cold setting in, Miss Fagan decided it would be a great idea to jog down the mountain and convinced Mr Armstrong of her plan "It was pretty easy, he just does everything I say anyway, that's how relationships work don't they?". Although Mr Armstrong conceded that he had agreed easily to "jog down the mountain" he disagreed with the insinuation that he had only done so because he is whipped "I just wanted another Penguin Biscuit and they were in the car". They proceeded down the mountain, saying hello to everyone they met. A local climber who did not wanted to be named, said that they were disguistingly happy with themselves, especially the girl who had a weird little grin on her face "They came whizzing past and I stopped to ask them how much further to the top, the girl turned to me and said you're almost there, then laughed and told me I had two hours to go. Bitch"

    Towards the bottom of the Mountain, Miss Fagan and Mr Armstrong slowed and spoke to other climbers who were starting their ascent. encouranging them along their way. Miss Fagan continued to walk on, when stepping off her 1 millionith rock of the day, disaster struck "I don't know what happened, one minute I was standing up, admiring the view and rocking my hot green jacket when nek minute I was on the ground". Miss Fagan apparently grabbed her ankle and once Mr Armstrong stopped humming stairway to heaven for the 100th time and realised what was going on, proceeded to quickly pick Miss Fagan up, took off her shoe, and noting the swelling, said "You'll be fine" and proceeded to drag her down the mountain, knowing if she stopped her foot would have seized up and would no longer be able to walk. Mr Armstrong made promises of Shetland Ponies and Highland cows if Miss Fagan was able to get down off the mountain without the mountain rescue being called, which to his delight and because she is so tough, she made it back to the car in relatively one piece.

    On return to the Vistors centre, Miss Fagan's ankle was inspected and was noted to be heavily swollen with slight brusing. Miss Fagan reported hearing a snap at the time of impact with the ground, however, no medical attention has yet been sought due to Miss Fagan wanting to see if it improves overnight. An XRay may be required at a local hospital in the morning. "It is quite painful, but I can kinda walk on it. Just take me to my Shetland Ponies" Unpreterred by the potential break in her ankle, Mr Armstrong and Miss Fagan went to celebrate climbing up the highest mountain in the United Kingdom with Chickpea Soup, followed by a search for Highland Cows.

    In other news, the Loch Ness Monster has still not been found after another extensive day of searching. Jamie Armstrong, media whore, took to Loch Ness in his Speedos this afternoon hoping to scare Nessy out of the water with his pasty white legs. It appears that the only things Mr Armstrong was able to scare was the water out of the water when he waded in to discover the water depth was only 5 inches thick as far as the eye could see. "It was a heavily disappointing day" Mr Armstrong stated "My speedos are still dry".

    Mr Armstrong and Miss Fagan's evening concluded with a Bon Fire at their little AirB&B located at Speen Bridge with some wine, cheese and a fat ankle.
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  • Day 5

    Fort William to Glasgow

    September 17, 2016 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today started with a trip to the hospital in Fort William, to make sure that Courtney's foot was sprained, and not broken. After the fastest NHS A&E visit ever (thanks NHS Highland), we had seen a doctor, had an x-ray, and were discharged within an hour. It is just a bad sprain, nothing more. So far as hospital experiences go, it was pretty damn good - everyone's idea of how the NHS should work.

    After our pitstop at the hospital, it was time to travel back to Glasgow via Glenfinnan. Historically famous as the site from which the Jacobite Revolution began, but more recently, famous as the site of the Harry Potter Bridge. FYI, the view of the bridge from the lookout point is not ideal. You only see the bridge from the side, with no concept of the sweeping curve of the viaduct. The view of the loch, down the valley however, is somthing to behold. Bonnie Prince Charlie might not have succeeded in reclaiming the throne, but he did pick a beautiful spot to land.

    Courtney then drove like a rally car driver back to Glasgow and it was then time for a quiet dinner with family. A last chance to say goodbye, and catch up over good food, drink and way too much chocolate cake!
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  • Day 6

    Glasgow to the Lake District

    September 18, 2016 in England ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Today was our final day in Scotland - we were back in England before midday, and were in the Lake District for a tapas lunch complete with espresso martinis.

    Thoughts on the Lake District are:
    1) It's pretty beautiful
    2) It's pretty touristy
    3) It's nothing on the Scottish Highlands

    WIthout putting too fine a point on it, the Lake District is a small area of the Scottish Highlands in England,. If you can't get yourself up the Highlands, ithe Lake District is a great spot to soak up some natural beauty. If you can get enough time to get up to the Highlands, you won't regret it.

    For every Lake Windemere in the Lake District, there are 10 lochs in the Highlands. For every walk through the Lake Distict, there are 10 in the Highlands. And as a bonus for those looking to retreat from the world that bit more, the Highlands are that much more remote and quiet.

    This post is not paid for by the Scottish Tourism Board.
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  • Day 7

    A little jaunt to Oxford

    September 19, 2016 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After a subdued sleep stop over in the small Lancashire town of Preston (which is pretty much just famous for birthing Andrew Flintoff), we made our way south along the M6 towards Oxford to meet up with my brother Brad and sister in law, Lynn to spend a couple of days before we embark on our 9 country tour.

    Our little Preston hotel (the Holiday Inn) fortunately came complete with a gym. Still nursing my badly sprained ankle, I was restricted to weights and Jamie decided he would join me so he could keep an eye on me to make sure I didn't do anything stupid. I spent most of the time educating Jamie on good dumbbell technique as apparently the only thing that accountants lift are their brains. That was bloody evident.

    After we finished our workout and gorged ourselves on free buffet breakfast, we jumped on the motorway to make our way south. How do I even make a post about driving exciting? We listened to some sweet sweet Ace of Base (all that she wants IS another baby), completed all the stuff quizzes with a highest mark 14/15 - woooooo, Jamie read me random facts about Finland, missed a turn off which added another 30 minutes to an already long and tedious journey and caused me to lose my shit and nearly got pinned by a truck. Also it has been discovered that the Brits seem to have a strong dislike of indicators, speed limits and just good driving practice in general.

    Anywho, we finally made it to Oxford and went straight over to check out the family crib. We quickly discovered that their flat was bigger than ours in London which made us super jealous. Brad and Lynn stay in a place called Summertown which has the biggest M&S food I've ever seen (which again invoked more jealously) and is 14 minute bike ride to town. After a quick catch up, we went out to a small Nepalese restaurant near the centre of town. Parking was absolutely atrocious, and, after a long day of driving - navigating narrow residential roads in the pouring rain where lines in the road could not be seen and only had parking for local residents, turned me into a monster. After driving around and around for what seemed like hours, A park was finally right outside the restaurant. Fortunately, after the parking debacle, the food was delicious and the restaurant continually brought us food we didn't order. Brad, who has a reputation for being a "little bit" stingy was in freebie heaven, telling Jamie not to argue with the waiter if he insisted on giving us free food.

    The night ended by dropping Brad and Lynn off to their awesome little flat and us making our way to the other side of Oxford to stay in our little AirB&B for the night to get a good sleep before heading to the Cotswolds the next day.

    Cankle update: swelling has gone down but more brusing - see photo below
    Phone update: phone has still not arrived in UK, doubt it ever will 😢
    Mojito update: no mojitos have yet been consumed on this trip
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  • Day 9

    Sweet Swindon

    September 21, 2016 in England ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We set off from Oxford to the Cotswolds with Brad and Lynn at 12pm after a morning of dealing with administrative fun. When you move to the UK setting up a bank account is an absolute nightmare and involves a circular conversation about needing a proof of address to set up an account which you cant get because you don't have a bank account to pay your rent, or get paid from your job for that matter. Computer says no, no, no is the way of the UK. Anyway, after we prepared ourselves for bank battle, turns out that closing the accounts is so much more simple and we had ample free time to sample the coffee offerings of the local neighbourhood. It seems bizarre that the banks don't seem to want you're money when you get here and then don't fight for your money and try and stop you leaving . I expected to be fought for NatWest, my self worth has been destroyed and I am crushed.

    After Jamie assured me that it was the Bank and not me, we picked up Brad and Lynn, and made our way to our first stop of the day Stow-on-the-Wold which has the cutest little coffee shop in all of the Cotswolds - The New England Coffee House. After a caffeine injection and good conversation, we drove through Bourton on the Water (an elderly paradise according to Brad) and continued south through single lane country roads towards our accomodation for the night at Stanton House just outside of Swindon. A beautiful stone hotel with large lavish grounds and gardens.

    We arrived, settled into our room and went and enjoyed a high tea out in the back garden complete with egg sandwiches (or as the Scottish call them - pieces), scones with cream and jam and a selection of carrot, chocolate and fruit cakes (yuk!). On completion of the sugar gauntlet, we worked 1/10th of it off by doing a short walk around the local fish pond, complete with Canadian Geese which Lynnie was super excited about. After meeting the friendliest dog in the world and a few horses and discussing our ideas for new Mills and Boon Novels which focused on a rugby love triangle between a prop, a lock and a hooker we made our way back to our room for a few drinks and nibbles.

    A few drinks later and we headed to the hotel restaurant which offered both Japanese and European cuisine. To our surprise the food was absolutely devine and I had one of the best Aubergine (none of this Eggplant stuff, we are posh English people now) dishes I have ever had. We stayed until closing time talking about our childhoods, school life and how horrible other kids could be. A really fun day spending time with our family and wishing it didn't have to end tomorrow with our last night in the UK.
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  • Day 9

    Road to Finland

    September 21, 2016 in England ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    I am rather annoyed with myself, because this is the second time that I am writing this post. I wasn't paying attention to the power level on the tablet, and it shutdown before I had a chance to save. It has been a while since I suffered this particular issue, but we all need a reminder of these things from time to time.

    CTRL + S everyone, CTRL + S.

    And now to what you came here to read...

    We started the day in Chateau Swindon, (not its real name) after a very pleasant evening the night before. One thing that you might not have guessed about Swindon, is that it has a lot of Japanese tourists (locals, please tell us all why in the comment section below), which meant that there were all manner of Japanese options for the breakfast buffet. And by all manner, I mean three. Plain boiled rice, miso soup, and a soya bean monstrocity served in a styrofoam container. Chateau Swindon, was just a bit too Swindon in its Japanese options.

    After leaving the hotel we stopped for a quick look at the church next door, which was built in the 800's during the time of Alfred the Great, and has seen the invasion of the Nomans, the fall and restoration of the monarchy, and two world wars. Not bad for a nameless church in the middle of nowhere, with a current congregation of 30 aging souls. The congregation has got so small, I think they are divertising for new recruits on ChristianMingle.com.

    Then it was on to Oxford, to drop of Brad and Lynn, before a short run to Gatwick Airport, to drop off the car, and check in to our hotel, for the final night of our stay in the UK. Crawley, where we were staying next to Gatwick, is not exactly the same bustling cosmopolitan metrolopis that London was, but it did provide an acceptable, if expensive, curry for dinner. There was also time for a trip to Asda, to really soak in the local wildlife, which we can confirm is human, if a bit different from others that you may have encountered in your local vicinity.

    There wasn't much left to do after Asda, but head back to hotel and continue the party. Like every good Def Leppard concert after-party, it had champagne, white powder, and lacy underwear in a hotel sink. Unfortunately for us, the white powder was to wash my unmentionables in the hotel sink. At least the champagne was real. Party on Wayne.

    We thought that there would be a moment this night, where the full realisation of our move would sink in, but it didn't come. Perhaps tomorrow it will arrive. Perhaps three months of travel, means that the full effect isn't going to arrive at all. Stay tuned folks, and I am sure you'l find out when we do.
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  • Day 10

    First night in Finnyland

    September 22, 2016 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    This morning was our last morning in the UK. If we started with a hint of regret at our decision to leave, it quickly evaporated as we navigated London, its inhabitants, and its institutions, one last time.

    Whether the angry ramblings of a man at the train station in the morning, forcing his way to the front of ticket machine queue; ill-tempered and mal-adjusted train passngers on the short train ride from Crawley to Gatwick Airport; or the staff at Gatwick airport misdirecting the boarding of our plane, with people for at the front getting on at the back at vice versa. If we are to have any take away from London in particular, and the UK in general, it is the gross inefficiencies that exist. Those inefficiencies allowed us to live a very comfortable and fortunate life, but at the expense of many others, considerably less fortunate than ourselves. With comments like that I feel compelled to add: Vote Labour, Vote Jeremy Corbyn. Not my personal choice, but don't let me stop any of you.

    The flight with Norwegian was uneventful, and featured the wonder that is inflight wifi for free. To all the other airlines out there charging for this particular service, at the same rates as operating a mobile phone in the 1980's, this is what your customers want.

    As soon as we arrived in Helsinki, we picked up our car and headed for Tampere. The only issue with the car being the minor panic that set in when Courtney couldn't find her driver's license. It was found, in Jamie's wallet, the most obvious place.

    Once Courtney got used to driving on the other side of the road again, The drive from Helsinki to Tampere, represented a reasonably uneventful two and a half hours. There were cars, trucks, and lots and lots of lakes and pine trees. The latter two being the symbols of Finland. On arrival in Tampere, it was time to get some dinner, which involved a trek across town, 25 mins at most, to a wee Malayasian restaurant, tucked away in a residential area. Finnish cuisine, doesn't offer the greatest options to your average vegetarian, so we went for what amounted to the easiest option at the time. We were both tired.

    Easy or not, the food was very delicious, if a bit expensive to the unitiated. Think London prices, and then add a wee bit more. And then there was a lovely walk back through town to our hotel. Check the photos. Tampere looks very cool, and its a shame we won't get to spend more time here.

    FYI Tampere is the Manchester of Finland. The most obvious similarity being the enormous number of Victorian era factories, making use of the fast flowing water. Tampere is otherwise a very cultured town, with cultural options abound, from operas to museums to fine dining.

    Also, the gravity of leaving London has yet to sink in. The beauty of FInland, from what we have seen already certainly has though.
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  • Day 12

    Tampere to Jyvaskyla

    September 24, 2016 in Finland ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Today is Courtney's birthday. Happy [INSERT NUMBER] Birthday Courtney.

    The day began with a traditional Scandinavian breakfast buffet. This featured two particular items, that Courtney would not stop talking about for the rest of the day. The first was egg butter, which looks similar to scrambled eggs, but is much richer. The second was frozen yoghurt, available in unlimited quantity. If Courtney only had these two things for her breakfast for the remainder of her life, I think that she would be more than happy.

    After breakfast, we checked out of the hotel, and picked up an unexpected companion. Teemu the bear is an avid fan of the Finnish Olympic Team, and quite amazingly, is also travelling to New Zealand. He didn't have any plans for the next three months, so on the spur of the moment, decided to join us on our travels. He is apparently going to pay for his share of the travel costs, but he is so small, and travels so light, that we really don't mind if he does or he doesn't.

    The first stop on Courtney's birthday tour, was th Pynikki Observation Tower in Tampere, to give a beautiful view across the surrounding region. There were donuts and coffee available, to add the experience, which Courtney declined in favour of a diet Fanta. Teemu, didn't have anything - there was no honey.

    On the way to our next destination, we had to make quick pit stop, and a motorway layby. With all the excitement leading up her birthday, Courtney was up all night dreaming of adventures and emails from people, and was getting pretty tired. After flirting with the idea of having a powernap, it was agreed that the best thing would be for us to do some road side exercise to wake up. And so it came to pass that Jamie and Courtney did press ups, lunges and starjumps, as the rest of Finland drove passed them wondering what was going on. Teemu didn't join in - he is pretty lazy.

    The next proper stop on our trip was a UNESCO World Hertiage site, that is in fact a trig station. It was part of a network of trig stations built in the 1800's, and was used to confirm that the Earth is squashed, in that it isn't as long North to South, as it is East to West. It was a short walk up a reasonably steep trail (20mins up, 40 mins down) - Teemu described it as an adventure. It was a challenge on Courtney's bung ankle, but we got there, and had the place to ourselves. Just us, and a very beautiful view. Despite all this beauty, Teemu didn't have anything to say - he is pretty simple.

    Then it was on to Jyvaskyla for the night. After parkng the car and checking in, we were looking for something to do. before dinner. Teemu, recommended an art installation or inflatable rabbits. Apparently, one of his friends is a rabbit, and recommended the art installation as pretty awesome. I think Teemu ate the wrong forest mushrooms myself.

    And then it was on to dinner, sans Teemu, to a rather fancy, fine dining establishment. The food consisted of deliciously done, Finnish delicacies, and the wine was a rather tasty bottle of prosecco. Top tip for tourists heading to Finland, if you want to travel on the cheap through Finland, do not go to a fine dining establishment. For Courtney's birthday it was well worth it though, but it wasn't the end of our culinary adventure.

    Fuelled by proscco, and a rather strong, if sweet aperitif, we headed to the closest purveyor of cold dessert treats. We happened on a place really popular with the local youth, called McDonalds, which is a funny name for a food place in Finland. At this restaurant we had some McNuggets, which are like chicken nuggets, and two delicious ice-cream treats called McFlurries, with Oreos. We saw Teemu at McDonalds too, with a tonne of food around him - he is gluttonous it would seem.

    FYI - they actually mix the McFlurries properly here, none of this drop the oreos on top and pretend like we actually did something business.

    And then Courtney's birthday was over. We both had a lot of fun, and were definitely looking forward to a good night's sleep.

    On another topic entirely, Teemu reminds me of another bear that we met somewhere. We can't quite remember where yet, but we'll work it out.
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