COSTA RICA

December 2023 - January 2024
A 15-day adventure by Denise.at.ease Read more
  • 10footprints
  • 1countries
  • 15days
  • 120photos
  • 13videos
  • 20.0kkilometers
  • 18.7kkilometers
  • 136kilometers
  • 101kilometers
  • 17kilometers
  • 4sea miles
  • 1kilometers
  • Day 2–3

    San Jose

    December 27, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Arrived in San Jose without any sleep, no mobile data and no plan.
    Went to Selina in San Jose for a night of sleep. Socialising wasn’t an option 😆
    I overslept in the morning and sit at the bus terminal now trying to find my way to Tortuguero. I can only book one bus at a time and there are 2 more to go. Then I have to find a boat. Let’s see if this works out, the lady at the counter was optimistic and so am I.Read more

  • Day 2

    CHAOS TO TORTUGUERO

    December 27, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After oversleeping and two tries I made it to the right bus stop. The first bus had no seats left, so I had to sit on the floor for 2 hours. I meditated and slept a little. Then I thought about life and why I decided to pack my disinfectant in the other bag, which had been loaded in the trunk. Nevertheless I started eating rice crackers hoping for the best.

    The second bus was leaving from a different terminal, which we were shittled to by another public bus.
    Couldn’t pay this one though because they needed cash. On the way to an ATM I found a little shack at the side of the road that sold SIM cards on the street.
    Very friendly people: a lady who organised it and tried to explain everything in very slow Spanish. We both laughed when we realized that this was not going to work. Another guy who spoke English well and who I talked to exchanging short stories about travels and family. He said ElSalvador was cleaned up by the government and is safe to travel now.
    “Cleaned up?” I asked
    “Yes all with tattoos in jail”, he answered.
    “In jail or killed” I asked.
    “Yes, very safe now”, he answered.
    We both nodded and after some silence the lady with the SIM card waved me towards her. My phone on the table.
    “10000 Colones”- I have her 20000 and everyone stared at me, followed by a big laugh and “Gringa!”.
    I didn’t have any small money, though 10000C is around 17€.
    She smiled and walked off with the money to get some change and activate the SIM card.
    “How long?” I said, a bit concerned I won’t get any change back.
    “Fast! 20 minutes.”

    Shit my bus! I ran to the ATM to at least have more money and asked the guy to wave at any bus passing. No bus came. But the lady was back after 15’, set up my phone and off I went running towards the bus station. No bus in sight.

    Then the second bus driver with a car: “THERE you are! I was looking for you!”
    I jumped in the car with my luggage and we drove behind the bus until we reached it, I gave him the money (5€ for a 2hour bus plus a 1,5h bus ride all together).

    I made it! 🎉
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  • Day 2–4

    TORTUGUERO

    December 27, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Met nice people on the bus and shared my food. The boats arrived and we hopped in.
    Proper long boats - very slow. Through the jungle. Reminded me of the PAMPAS in the Bolivian Amazonas river.
    Beautiful big black birds with yellow beaks, a green turtle with a long neck like a giraffe and a crocodile.
    I love it!

    The travels were exhausting but so worth it.
    The hostel Im staying at is located right at the river and super clean. Sunshine, friendly people, Carribean Reggae and a mango pineapple smoothie.

    Life is good!
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  • Day 2–4

    LAZY AS A TURTLE

    December 27, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    “Tortuguero” can be roughly translated to “Land of the Turtles.” It’s isolated from civilisation and is home to diverse and rare wildlife.

    It’s only reachable by boat or tiny airplane.
    Heading there by boat shows plenty of wildlife including green long neck turtles and crocodiles. We even saw an emu like big black bird with a yellow beak strolling along the shoreline. Colourful birds and plenty of butterflies make you question why you live in a grey city with crows.

    Carribean wetlands, plenty of fruit juices and Reggae is what you can expect. People are friendly and easy going.

    I flew my drone out this morning and was taken aback of just how beautiful this place is. Seeing it from above makes you appreciate it even more. That said, it’s also rather boring if you’re not into bird watching.

    So I ticked that off my list, will head now to the beach in which I can’t swim because of insane currents and will try to get rid of my T-shirt suntan lines at the beach 🏝️

    Tomorrow I’m off to Puerto Viejo - a sleepy Carribean village with good rum and good friends who wait for me to hang out!

    Plan is to get a bicycle and hang out at the beach all day - parties at night 🎉

    But yeah! Tortuguero is worth it- you can rent a Kajak for 25$ and cruise around and then you can leave somewhere else 😄💜
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  • Day 4

    BUMPY BOATRIDE

    December 29, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Leaving the land of turtles as the locals call „Tortuguero“ is has hard as getting there.

    The boat ride is supposed to be 3,5 hours down south through the wetlands. We all line up, backpackers and locals. Bags are thrown into a boat we are not allowed to enter as they balance out the weight. The boat is small and tiny and barely reaches above the water. We are 21 people - three too many. Chairs are brought inside the middle for the remaining passengers who hadn’t pushed their way to the front as the boarding started.

    A tiny motor on full blast we barely moved. You could feel the weight of us.

    „GUITARRA- EEEH“ the Rastafari in front of me shouted and laughed. He had forgotten his guitar on the pier and found it amusing that no one else had brought it in.

    Guitar on board. Tiny motor trying to do its job. All of us tightly packed together as we are passing wild papyrus, huge banana trees that have sometimes fallen into the water, as well as grass that grows on the water and is held together by its roots. Fishermen stand in their tiny boats and look at us while we pass. A crocodile snaps its head out of the water and disappears in the brownish water. Little “street” signs pop up when rivers cross that show directions of the villages they lead to. Blue signs in the middle of the wetlands suggest not to drive faster than 15km/h to help save the manatee, a weird grey underwater creature that looks like the squeezeball version of a seal.

    2 hours in and time flies past because the scenery is mesmerizing. When you look at the plants close to the water you can see their reflection forming various geometric shapes. When you focus on both images it makes you feel like you’re flying.

    Then a huge bump and the boat stops. We hit a sandbank and are stuck. Little round black and white birds with long legs that don’t match their body strut around the water looking for food. One of the locals gets out of the boat and tries to rearrange the boat. The water is too low and we are too many people.

    When we finally make it out the captain carefully manoeuvres the boat and finds a small lane where we can pass through until we reach the wider area of another river.

    3,5 hours in and we can see the ocean mixing with the river. More animals, plenty of various birds. Probably more crocodiles below us.
    The boat stops again

    “Gasolina vacía”
    We’re out of gas. The captain manages his way through the boat throwing around the suitcases and backpacks.
    “Oh no no” he keeps saying until he finds some gasoline and we’re ready to continue our journey.

    After 4 hours we can see some tiny huts and houses. We’re told to put our life vests on, because the coast guards are ahead. It’s funny to note here that it would technically be possible to walk through some of these little side rivers. The captain turns around: the people in the middle need to leave the boat. A red taxi is waiting for them to bring them to the docking station. The coast guards are not supposed to see that the boat has carried too many people. Some people left in the most unbalanced way possible. The boat was shaking.

    When we arrived there were already around 15 taxi drivers around waiting for customers.
    Only 2 more hours driving now until the Carribean beachtown Puerto Viejo.
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  • Day 5

    CARRIBEAN COSTA RICA

    December 30, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Puerto Viejo - a little beach town on the southern Carribean part of Costa Rica.
    It’s chill and so am I.
    Reggae music, little wooden shacks that sell fruit - small breezes of weed. Everything is slow expect for the TukTuk drivers. They roam around like there’s no tomorrow.

    A Fresh mango tuna salad with a beetroot reduction in front of me. I am not saving money, though I should. What was expected to be a chilled out beach town has merged into a hipster paradise and now a family place. Hostel gentrification is taking place.
    Prices have gone up- the interesting people can’t afford the beds anymore. The vibe is gone.

    And so are the musicians at the beach, the healing centers, cacao ceremonies as well as the fire breathers who juggle their fire pois.

    Fucking kids in the hostel pool where I want to get drunk in.

    My friend arrives and we head off to buy a bottle of Cacique (a Costa Rican Rum that is beyond good!). It has 30 degrees when we buy it, and need to chill it in the freezer. We drink it pure out of water glasses. It barely tastes of alcohol which is very dangerous.

    It’s raining - raining a lot. We walk to town without an umbrella. The rain is warm and by the end of the day it’s just water. We’re happy and tipsy!

    I hear my last name. Oh no “where”. Again!
    A student from Berlin with his parents. Act sober - BE sober. I wasn’t and I talked A LOT. They were all super friendly though and after a few minutes we went separate ways.

    More Caciqui! We ordered food. Sushi in tiny potato cups. (Saving money is challenging).
    My friend Cris tried the little potato cup filled with avocado cream and tiny tuna slices sprinkled in sesame, said he wasn’t hungry and got 4 slices of pizza from a street vendor outside.

    The night was lots of walking around, Carribean music anywhere and plenty of people dancing at the beach.

    The next morning was a disaster. Cheap Rum has its prize. I could barely walk nor talk and the only thing I was capable of was riding with my bike to the next village to sit at some secluded beach with my friends watching the sunset. No one talked. The head pounded. Too much rum.
    But so good. So good.

    The evening ended early and I was falling asleep next to my travel trolley. I used to have a backpack. Used to eat peanut butter with bananas when my money ran out.
    I am gentrifying.
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  • Day 5

    PUERTO VIEJO - escaping prison

    December 30, 2023 in Costa Rica

    Puerto Viejo started off with a full bottle of Cacique (a national Costa Rican rum) and meeting my friend from Costa Rica who I hung out with in a group of friends 2 years ago.

    The days went past the bottles emptied. My Dutch travel friends arrived as well. Many nice people in the hostel, karaoke nights, New Years at the beach, night swims at the beach with a bit of bioluminescence plankton and interesting conversations.

    We sang karaoke one night. The hostel filled up with people from all over the world. A security guard was walking around the hostel with a taser in his hands.
    *Bzzzzz* (he enjoyed the sound of it -
    Probably more of the power it gave him)

    A dude with a headband was sitting on his own at the end of the bar.
    At one point he stood up and rocked the floor. Great voice, lyrics came naturally- he entertained the whole crowd. No one wanted to sing after him 😆
    (Me remembering my crew blasting out Dutch songs in full volume without knowing the lyrics!)

    He enjoyed the attention, probably hasn’t had it in a while. Something eery about him.
    He sat in the smoking area when I joined with two of the boys. I was curious how he got here.

    “Dodged prison” he said laughingly. “Just joking”.
    He wasn’t.

    “How?” I asked him.
    “Caught me with booze in the car and was about to be sentenced 5 years”

    “5 years for booze?” I asked?
    Silence.

    “It’s hard to live here. 3 Dollars per day as a handyman- can barely survive. It’s possible to grow weed here he said”

    There we go.

    “They get theirs from California” I replied. Growing is hard because it gets moldy down here.

    “Up in the mountains” he mumbled.

    The two boys had left by the time. I saw them blasting their voices out in karaoke.
    The tattooed karaoke starlet looked up in the sky. “Long time without family. Passport runs out soon, I’ll probably never see them again. People lock their windows with bars down here, did you notice?”

    “You know” I said - life always gives you what you can handle. You just have to find out how to work the game. Use your talents, do something with what you’re good at- music!” He smiled. Be a little bit of a criminal, but have your own morals about it, rob the bad people maybe and help others on the way. And while you do that work on boats. Boats are not checked as much as frontiers are.”

    He laughed “12 miles off each coast is international waters, that could work.”
    “That would be 20km according to google” I nodded. “That could work.

    “A family would be nice, but who would want me?” He continued staring at his weed pipe.
    “Or a sugar mummy”.
    “You don’t need no fucking sugar mommy!” We both laughed - smoke coming out of his mouth. “You’re a fucking counsellor or what?” He said while coughing.

    He had something friendly about him, bad childhood, hard environments, music. Lost it all. A bit broken but on his way. I kind of hoped he doesn’t end up in prison while I walk back to my friends.

    *bzzzzz” taser guy on lower mission. He was everywhere.

    The night ended with me and my Dutch friends hiking through the jungle - going on a night swim. There was plankton around us that glimmered - the moon shining brightly in the sky. Happiness.
    We got back out- all wet, a warm breeze of air, the stars were sparkling. It was 3:30am as I was tiptoeing to the bathroom trying not to wake up my bunk bed neighbor. Quick shower, back to bed. The room is dark.
    Sirens go off.

    *WEOO WEOO*

    Someone broke into the hostel.
    More sirens. Then silence.

    *bzzzzz* Taser guy is back, circling the buildings like a cat.

    Silence.
    2 hours to go until my pickup to Manuel Antonio arrives. It’s time to leave.
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  • Day 8–11

    CHAOS IN MANUEL ANTONIO

    January 2 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    After booking a shuttle from Puerto Viejo to Manuel Antonio I arrived at the Selina hostel after 13 long hours.
    The shuttle was overpriced with 130$ and stopped at 4 silly huge souvenir shops where we had to stay for 20 minutes each.
    The cheaper alternative would have been a rocky public bus from Puerto Viejo to Limon, then Limon to San Jose, then San Jose to Manuel Antonio probably taking 4 hours longer without seats or air con guaranteed.

    Since I’m carrying around 3 bags of “hand luggage” and have been sweating like a waterfall in the burning 40 degrees here, I decided to pay for the shuttle that brings me door to door.
    Goodbye budget 👋

    When I arrived in Manuel Antonio I got a text from a friend who lives there picking me up with his quad. We chilled a bit at his place and hung out.

    Next morning was turtle day!
    I was excited when I woke up and ready to go. Packed my bag, ordered some breakfast and ready I was. When suddenly I found an editing tool that lets me edit my videos. Nice one!
    Fully merged into this one and then found out how badly I’m running out of time.

    No no no.

    Clicked on my app, opened Uber - one car.
    One car around.
    That one car was 5 minutes away.
    10 minutes away.
    5 minutes away.
    This one Uber was not coming.

    I messed up.
    Later that day my friend told me it’s literally one guy! Sometimes he arrives as says it’s too cheap he can’t drive and charges more money. 😆

    Alright new plan: heading to Manuel Antonio national park. This will be easy: I go there (don’t need a tour!) walk around and head to the beach in there. Been there 2 years ago and it’s beautiful! Packed with wildlife, and ant eaters, butterflies, colourful poisonous frogs that hop around you, and sloths!!

    So well, excited about that (who needs turtles anyways!) I arrive at the gate to be told it’s booked out.

    “Booked out? It’s just me. One tiny person in a huuuuge park. Let me in!”

    No chance. Apparently you have to book online in order to get a time slot. Should have know, but just have forgotten withing 2 years. Cheers to my outstanding memory 👏

    Instead I spend the day at my friends work, headed to the beach and chilled in his room.

    Back at the hostel I ended up in a Samba dance lesson. “Why not?” I thought.
    “Hell no” my ADHD ass replied. There was not a single chance I could remember these steps. They weren’t even that hart to remember, but once we needed to turn around while maintaining the steps in a f*** circle it was game over for me.

    New try with the turtles tomorrow I promised myself. This time I’d head there extra early.

    Ready for bed I went to my dorm and found out both my pillow and my blanket were missing. Went up to the reception for a new pillow and walked back down.
    Didn’t the dude below my had a blanked wall around his bed?!

    I got there shining the light of my phone camera in there. There he was: fat ass dude from India, big belly, white shirt half pulled up, snoring with an open mouth ON MY PILLOW!!
    Fucking idiot. I had all my stuff on these things he just pulled the blanked out. He knew it was mine.

    I pulled back the blanket curtain (technically my blanket curtain!) and in the politest possible way I got my blanket back.
    (It was anything else than polite and I believe that he was scared of me once that was over)
    But I had my blanket back. 💪

    After a half angry, half content sleep I managed to get up in time and see the turtles the next day.
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  • Day 10

    RELEASING BABY TURTLES

    January 4 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    I met a girl in Puerto Viejo who gave me a number of a local in Manuel Antonio who collects sea turtle eggs every night to then release them into the ocean.

    Best part is, once you paid for the transport the release is free. Though you should pay 20$ as a donation so he can continue doing this. But it case you don’t have any money you can still help chase the birds away once I’m they wobble into the water.

    Alright here we go:

    1. Head to “Ferry Boat to El Cocal” on Google (it’s in Quepos)
    2. Pay 400 Colones for the short ferry ride across the river
    3. Wait for a shuttle. It’s a 4 wheel drive that starts once filled with 8 people. (2000 Colones one way)
    4. Ride on the back of that car along a deserted beach
    5. Arrive at a random spot in the middle of nowhere and clap your hands in utter happiness.

    The turtles hatched in the morning. There are more turtles from June until October, but when I was there in December 96 turtles were impatiently waiting to head into the ocean.

    After a short briefing …

    -don’t step in front of them
    - when in the water: don’t move around
    - chase the birds away that try to eat them

    … and a long round of questions we walked them to the beach, flipped the blue box and watched them make their way into a new life hopefully for the next 100+ years.

    As you can guess the worst predator (except for the birds that unfortunately managed to snatch away 5 baby turtles) are humans.
    Not only people walk around at night to save the eggs, there are others who sell a nest for 20$. With the remaining donations our good guy (help me I forgot his name) buzz the eggs from these people so that they too can be released. He says it’s an instant race each night of who gets there first.

    Luckily most of our turtles made it into the ocean contributing to a healthy reef now 🪸

    I would say this was by far the best experience I had in Costa Rica and I can highly recommend anyone to experience it.

    If you want to book it, here’s his WhatsApp Number (he can read and reply in English)

    +506 8974-2946

    🐢💕
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  • Day 12–15

    UVITA - a hidden beachy jungle town

    January 6 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Uvita is a town in the middle of Marino Ballena National Park. In the ocean there’s a sandbank that resembles a whale’s tale on which you can walk across shallow waters.
    As soon as the sun sets water floats over the tail from both directions making you look like Jesus walking on water.

    The park was created to protect marine life such as turtles, dolphins and humpback whales. There are tours for 75$ on which you can see them. I considered it as too expensive but one girl from my dorm went today and saw a mommy whale with her baby.

    Uvita is burning hot! When I walked along the beach I was drooling in sweat. Earlier today I inhaled the sweat that was drilling from my nose I’m not even kidding.
    The beaches are the most beautiful I have seen in the world (except for Australia!). Green lush jungles stretch along the coast line. Black sand and endless waves. A little mist above the water. Beautiful. Don’t even start about about the sunsets. Drop dead gorgeous. Contrasting my whole body being a huge sponge that has been wrung over and over again there is no way I can have one decent looking picture with me in.😆

    Apart from sweating I’ve been meeting up with a friend I had met in Costa Rica 5 years ago when I was a working at Junglar del Jaguar in Corcovado National Park.

    He used to have short hair, which has turned blonde as has grown longer than mine now. So much time has passed. So happy I am to meet up with him again.

    Apart from hanging out with him and reconnecting with the two girls from Munich (I had met in the hotel in Manuel Antonio and who funnily now stay at the same place as I do 💜💜💕) I have been focusing on Yoga.

    Each morning one Yoga class. Classes are located on a rooftop and the setting couldn’t be more beautiful. Teachers are outstanding and they work with good shamanic music as well as aesthetic oils and Sage.

    “Scientists have observed that sage can clear up to 94 percent of airborne bacteria in a space and disinfect the air. When sage is burned, it releases negative ions, which is linked to putting people into a positive mood. The Latin word for sage salvia stems form the word heal” @Brooke Bob (Vogue, 2016)

    This morning we had a sacred cacao ceremony combined with a slow Vinyasa. You drink the cacao and set an intention. While your body absorbs the raw cocoa you can feel your heart rate increase. I loved the practice as I can tap more and more into my core.

    One thing our teacher said while we were stretching into rather impossible poses:

    “Sometimes people struggle to feel negative emotions when they come up.” It is important to lean into these in order to let them pass. “Sometimes it’s hard and we distract ourselves with alcohol, watching tv, scrolling on the phone. But when we’re present it’s important to lean in, feel them, soften and breathe. Lean in, soften and breathe. Lean in, soften, breathe.”

    While I incorporated that in my stretch I leaned in (pain!) leaned in as far as I could (pain!), Allowed my body to soften to a point where the pain is there but isn’t sharp and breathed. Lean in, soften, breathe.
    All of a sudden I could feel the resistance pass and I could stretch way further than I had ever done it. That’s amazing.

    When life gets hard, or your heart aches. Lean in, soften and breathe.

    Yoga is powerful. I will definitely build it into my daily routine when I’m back in Berlin.
    And then I’ll just need to find out where I want to be next in my life.

    But for now all I need to do is lean in, soften and breathe.

    🧘‍♀️
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