Watarrka (Kings Canyon) National Park

Another early start and a few hours drive got us into Watarrka (Kings Canyon) National Park for a 2-hour hike on the rim trail. First you have to climb up to the rim, some 100 meters of stone steps (heart attack hill). The canyon walls are striated, tilted, and amazingly smooth in some sections. There were more trees around here—desert plum, acacia, and of course eucalyptus. Up at the top we saw fossil evidence of the old seabed that covered this part of the Outback 350 million years ago. Kings Canyon reminded us of some of our favorite places in Utah and Arizona (but without the heat!) and it was just as special to us.

After our refreshing hike, we went to a picnic ground for lunch to grill some sausages and veggies for Australian-style quesadillas. All of the campgrounds and picnic areas have propane-fueled BBQs—with griddles. Then it was time to leave for the 4-hour drive to our next campsite—at least half of it on the dirt road called the Mereenie Loop. On the drive over we saw dingos, wild horses and a camel. Because kangaroos and wallabies are nocturnal, and rest in the shadows of trees or rocks in the daytime, we have missed out on spotting any in the wild so far. We did stop for a look at some tall termite mounds.

Back on pavement again, we visited Hermannsburg, established by the Lutherans as an Aboriginal mission in 1877. The land was handed over to traditional ownership in 1982, and the area is now World Heritage-listed. It is kind of like a reservation, but the Aboriginal people were invited to live there for support and education. Hermannsburg had a little store with supplies for locals and tourists alike, and local art for purchase—which we did!

We camped at another ‘reservation’ community called Wallace Rockhole. A rockhole is a water hole in a canyon or gorge. After another cooperatively prepared meal and campfire stories from Adam, we opted for the tents again instead of swags.Read more