Visit to Évora & Cooking Class

After the cork factory, we moved on to lunch and a guided exploration of one of Europe’s oldest settlements, Évora, dating back more than 5,000 years. The site was conquered over the centuries by Celts, Romans, and Moors before its reconquering by Portugal in the 12th century. It is the birthplace of navigator Vasco da Gama, who charted the sailing route to India. Parts of the Roman city walls, bits of the old aqueduct, and a few columns from a 2nd century temple are all that remain of the Roman occupation. But there are some nice churches, monasteries and former palaces there from the 16th century onwards.

For our dinner tonight, we got to be the chefs. A family-based cooking school taught us to create many traditional Portuguese dishes with pork, fish, potatoes, black-eyed peas and a Moroccan-inspired carrot dish that we had while in Morocco. Dessert was port-soaked baked apples and an almond egg custard. We have the recipes and are looking forward to recreating some of the dishes at home!

Our guide, Ulises, is originally from Toledo and studied ethnomusicology in London. His musical focus is on traditional folk songs and tonight he serenaded us (and the cooking staff) with a couple of songs.

Now for a note about our historic hotel, Convento do Espinheiro: it is a former convent (with church) built in 1458. The word convent (at least in Portugal) is used for religious communities outside of town, and monastery for those in town, and either may house monks or nuns. Our convent was a place for men, and was also a place where royalty and nobility would stop and stay on their journeys around the country. It is said that it was while staying at the convent that King Manuel was brought news of the “discovery” of India by Vasco da Gama. After the religious orders were expelled in 1834, the convent changed ownership many times and eventually went into serious disrepair. In the 1990s an investor made it possible for the building to be lovingly restored, sparing no expense for details, it seems.Read more