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Journey in Portugal and Spain
  • Diane and Darryl
  • Diane and Darryl

Journey in Portugal and Spain

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  • Inicio da viagem
    3 de março de 2024
    Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Pena Palace, Sintra
    Quinta da Regaleira palaceLunch with our little tour groupWesternmost point of continental EuropeLighthouse at the pointCascaisGizzards??RecyclingLots of surfers out

    Portugal: Pena Palace in Sintra

    3 de março de 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We’re now in Portugal, and it’s our last day of travel with Nance & Sande. We’d arranged a day-long tour to see sights outside of Lisbon and particularly the iconic Pena Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in the hills of Sintra town.

    A group of 8 of us joined our guide, Alberto, who took us first to the palace, which was occupied by various members of the royalty until the Republican Revolution of 1910. The coup leaders killed the current king, and the rest of the royal family fled in exile. What’s interesting is that it’s evident they really cleared out fast. All the furnishings and decorations are original from the time the family lived there. Queen Amelia’s hair brushes are still laid out on her nightstand.

    We carried on with a stop in Sintra village for a coffee break with traditional pastries, and then a drive through the countryside for a traditional Portuguese lunch at a family-run restaurant (seafood is very big here, as you can imagine, being on the Atlantic). Delicious!

    After lunch, it was on to the westernmost point of continental Europe, and then to another iconic (although touristic) village of Cascais. It was a great way to wrap up our travels with Nance & Sande and meet some new people, too!    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Sintra Palace (aka Town Palace)
    Our tour route for the next 12 daysTwo giant chimneys for the kitchenSwan RoomPainted ceiling of the Magpie RoomProbably used for a galleryModest gardens of Sintra PalaceTile wall detail at Sintra PalaceA chimney in the kitchenQueluz PalaceRenovations underway at Queluz Palace

    Palaces and Portuguese History

    4 de março de 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    We’ve met up with our Road Scholar group of around 20 people. The tour focuses on history, significant architectural sites and picturesque villages, all while staying in historic hotels in Portugal and Southern Spain.

    The morning featured a lecturer from the University of Lisbon who did a great job of covering 2,000 years of Portuguese history in two hours. (Really, she made it a bit like telling a story!)

    We won’t go into all that here, but one thing to note is that in 1755 there was a catastrophic earthquake (>7.7) with subsequent fires and a tsunami, which destroyed nearly all of Lisbon’s buildings and other adjoining areas (the Moroccans mentioned it too). There aren’t a lot of structures left that are older than the 18th century—although remnants of older buildings have survived and were renovated and built upon, so many buildings may have medieval antecedents.

    Anyway, after the lecture, we had a little repeat of yesterday’s itinerary (which we knew would happen), but it was different enough. We drove along the Atlantic coast and had time to wander Sintra on our own. We chose to go to the palace in town (not the red-and-yellow palace on the hilltop). This particular palace survived the earthquake and is considered the best-preserved medieval royal residence in Portugal, being inhabited more or less continuously from at least the early 15th century to the late 19th century. We’re glad we went—check out our photos of the quirky painted ceilings (magpie room, swan room), the wood decorative cabinets and the plentiful tile wall decorations.

    Heading back toward Lisbon, our afternoon field trip brought us to the Palace of Queluz, a Rococo style royal palace, with lots of gold and mirrors. The mirrors served to bring more light into the rooms. We didn’t care for the style so much, but it certainly illustrated the wealth that the royal families had accumulated from the trade goods brought in from India and Brazil by this seafaring nation.    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Our hotel, a former convent
    Belém Tower, 1519 fortificationBelém TowerDiscoveries Monument, completed in 1960Marble map of Portugese naval expeditionsReplica of the seaplane that flew the first aerial crossing of the south AtlanticRoute of the aerial crossing to Rio3Jerónimos MonasteryStatue of King José I in Lisbon's Commerce PlazaTriumphal arch in Lisbon's Commerce PlazaPedestrian street in Belém historic neighborhood of LisbonAt the National Tile MuseumCamellias (from China) were considered exotic in 17th century Europe20th century art nouveau styleFormer wall decoration in a bakerySee the boxes and boxes of tiles yet to be sorted1Very long image capturing Lisbon before the earthquake

    Lisbon and Portugal’s Maritime History

    5 de março de 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We set off for the historic center of Lisbon, to the Belém neighborhood, where Portuguese navigators set sail from here centuries ago on their expeditions and “discovery” of India. Until the Portuguese found a naval route to India, the spice trade was made by land, on the Silk Road. It was a long and expensive journey. The transport of spices by ship cut the end price of spices—needed for food preservation and medicines—nearly in half.

    The Belém Tower is a 16th-century fortification at the mouth of the Tagus River in Lisbon, and it served as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers. The tower survived the 1755 earthquake due to being constructed on rock rather than the sandy bank of the river.

    Also on the waterfront is a replica of the first seaplane to make the first crossing of the south Atlantic, from Lisbon to Rio de Janero. The flight was made in 1922, to coincide with the centennial celebration in Rio of Brazil's independence. They almost missed the party due to several breakdowns and near catastrophes.

    An impressive monument on waterfront is called the Monument to the Discoveries. It shows a caravel ship setting out to sea, with Henry the Navigator at the prow and many significant figures from the Portuguese age of discovery all portrayed with symbols that refer to their identity: navigators, cartographers, warriors, missionaries, chroniclers and artists.

    Next up was a bus trip to the National Tile Museum, housed in a former convent. There were some exhibits on the techniques of tile decoration over time, and many beautiful pieces on display. The museum is a repository for many, many tiles salvaged from buildings destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. Curators sort through the remnants and try to date them, determine their historical significance, and piece them together. Judging by the many boxes of tiles we saw, they have quite a backlog!    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Skeleton of thermal baths heating system
    Fountain Hiuse at the Roman ruins of ConímbrigaFountain HouseMosaic floorWalled city of CoimbraMathematics building at University of CoimbraFraternity group performanceDifferent sidewalk patterns everywhere we goUniversity of CoimbraLibrary at University of Coimbra1Department of Medicine faculty meeting room1Armory Room (University police)Great Hall (PhD defense presentations)Fado music demonstrationFado "viola"1View from our hotel roomIn our historic hotel

    Roman Ruins, old University & Fado Music

    6 de março de 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Our hotel tonight (Conimbriga Hotel do Paço) was once the Almadas Palace, a royal residence dating back to the 14th century. It underwent extensive renovation 30 years ago to turn it into an historic hotel.

    This morning we had a short drive to the Roman ruins of Conímbriga. The site is one of the largest Roman settlements identified in Portugal. To date, less than 20% has been excavated. Romans occupied the site from the 1st century BC until the mid-5th century when they were pushed out by Germanic armies. The wall outlines of a few homes had been excavated, and some nice mosaic floor tiles were reconstructed, but most impressive was the Casa dos Repuxos (house of fountains). This was an aristocratic residence dating from the 2nd century AD, which was built with a complex lead-pipe hydraulic system that fed several fountains and ornamental pools. The house also has a rich set of mosaics depicting mythological, geometric and plant scenes.

    We continued with an exploration of Coimbra, the first capital city of Portugal. There we toured the oldest university in Portugal, the University of Coimbra. The site was a former royal palace until 1290 when the king realized he needed to start a university to stem the brain drain of students attending foreign universities (on Portuguese funding) and then not returning home. We visited the university prison (for naughty students!), the library, chapel, and other palace rooms converted for academic use.

    We then walked over to a local fado house for a performance of this traditional music of Portugal. This expressive, often melancholic Portuguese folk music tradition, is sometimes referred to as “Lisbon blues” because “fado” means “fate” and songs are often nostalgic or sad. Coimbra has their own take on this genre, using it for wooing lovers, and some of the songs were definitely on the more upbeat side. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to take videos to share with you.    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Monastery of Batalha
    1Tomb of King Henry the Navigator1The unfinished chapel15th century graffitiCorn, artichokes, globe and ropesLusitano horsesPortuguese cowboys1Tinto alba = barn owl, which they are protecting on the farm

    Batalha Monastery and a Working Farm

    7 de março de 2024, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    About an hour’s drive south is the Monastery of Batalha, built to commemorate a battle that secured the victory of the Portuguese over the Castilians in 1385. The place was abandoned 500 years later when a nationalistic government expelled the religious orders. Convents, monasteries, churches, manor homes and holdings of other institutes that were supported by religious donations were put up for sale, with the intention of placing the land and goods in the hands of the poor, but most did not have the money to purchase them.

    The church of the monastery is narrow and high—over 100 feet tall, the highest in Portugal. Although most of the stained glass and statues did not survive the 1755 earthquake, the decorative limestone carving remains in its original state, and is undergoing cleaning to better display the details. Last year, while pressure-washing the interior, 15th century graffiti was uncovered.

    The architectural style is called Manueline, after King Manual, who liked to incorporate maritime elements (ropes) and representations of the discoveries brought from the voyages of Portuguese navigators (corn, peppercorns, artichokes, flowers, etc.).

    Driving on, we enjoyed a locally produced buffet lunch at Companhia das Lezírias, a traditional Portuguese farmstead. The farm is the largest agricultural and forestry enterprise in Portugal, established in 1836.

    Among the farm’s many endeavors, they are a breeder of Lusitano horses. Originally bred for war and bullfighting, Lusitano’s are now highly regarded for their skills in equestrian dressage. These are the breed of horses used in Game of Thrones and Lord of the Rings movies.

    Agricultural products of the farm include rice (especially the high-quality Ariete variety), beef cattle, pine trees (firewood and furniture), cork oak, pine nuts, sunflowers for a genetic bank, olive trees, wine grapes and wine production.

    They are working toward sustainability in many areas—forest management, reducing their carbon footprint in wine bottle production (50% less glass), and reducing reliance on chemicals using drones for precision agriculture. More than seven universities are using the farm as a living laboratory for research projects.

    We got rained on from time to time-to-time today (first time in nearly a month of travel), but it didn’t affect us too much. It was a long driving day with interesting stops along the way!    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Cork oak grove after first harvest
    Cork oak after first cuttingCutting into the barkPeeling off the cork barkTool used for harvesting barkBoiling water vat to kill parasites and soften corkReady for marketLower-quality cork that will be put to many uses other than bottle stoppersCores where cork stoppers were cut

    All About Cork

    8 de março de 2024, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    Between our farm visit yesterday and our trip to a cork factory today, we got to know all about cork. Portugal is responsible for 60% of the cork production in the world, and it is a big point of pride for them (and concern, as more screw-tops come into use).

    The cork product comes from the outer layer of the tree, and it takes very skilled workers (no machinery) to carefully cut into the outer layer and not damage the growing cambium layer below. Once the bark is cut, they can peel off large sections of bark to be processed.

    Only when a tree has reached about 25 years of age can it begin to be harvested for its cork. This first bark isn’t the quality needed for wine stoppers. Portuguese law prohibits stripping the trees more than once every nine years in order to protect the species. It isn’t until the third harvest (over 40 years after planting) that the bark becomes of high enough quality to produce high-quality wine stoppers. In fact, the more often you peel the bark, the better the quality of cork bark you will get.

    They do make other things with the first cycles of cork harvest—purses, notebook covers, shoes, flooring, t-shirts and much more. We saw most of these products in shops around the towns we’ve traveled to.    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Moorish influence on Evora
    1st century Roman templeEvora Cathedral, built between 1186 and 1250In old town EvoraBarahona Palace, now the cour of appealsNavigator Vasco da GamaLots of peacocks in the parkMaking custardToasting chorizoBlack-eyed peasUlises singing a traditional folk songOur hotel, a former conventConvent before it was restoredIn the church at our hotelView from our room

    Visit to Évora & Cooking Class

    8 de março de 2024, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    After the cork factory, we moved on to lunch and a guided exploration of one of Europe’s oldest settlements, Évora, dating back more than 5,000 years. The site was conquered over the centuries by Celts, Romans, and Moors before its reconquering by Portugal in the 12th century. It is the birthplace of navigator Vasco da Gama, who charted the sailing route to India. Parts of the Roman city walls, bits of the old aqueduct, and a few columns from a 2nd century temple are all that remain of the Roman occupation. But there are some nice churches, monasteries and former palaces there from the 16th century onwards.

    For our dinner tonight, we got to be the chefs. A family-based cooking school taught us to create many traditional Portuguese dishes with pork, fish, potatoes, black-eyed peas and a Moroccan-inspired carrot dish that we had while in Morocco. Dessert was port-soaked baked apples and an almond egg custard. We have the recipes and are looking forward to recreating some of the dishes at home!

    Our guide, Ulises, is originally from Toledo and studied ethnomusicology in London. His musical focus is on traditional folk songs and tonight he serenaded us (and the cooking staff) with a couple of songs.

    Now for a note about our historic hotel, Convento do Espinheiro: it is a former convent (with church) built in 1458. The word convent (at least in Portugal) is used for religious communities outside of town, and monastery for those in town, and either may house monks or nuns. Our convent was a place for men, and was also a place where royalty and nobility would stop and stay on their journeys around the country. It is said that it was while staying at the convent that King Manuel was brought news of the “discovery” of India by Vasco da Gama. After the religious orders were expelled in 1834, the convent changed ownership many times and eventually went into serious disrepair. In the 1990s an investor made it possible for the building to be lovingly restored, sparing no expense for details, it seems.    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Old Monsaraz courthouse
    Fresco of "good and bad government"Natural pigments used in the wall paintingLooking across to Spain from Monsaraz, PortugalIn Monsaraz, pop. 33Scene from the road in Spain1Disney benches in Olivenza, Spain(??)Another interesting sidewalk design in Olivenza

    Villages on the Border

    9 de março de 2024, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    On our long driving day to Spain, we stopped for a tour of Monsaraz (Portugal), a 13th century village, home to just 33 people now. Most of the residents left in the 1960s and 70s to get jobs and later because of the hardships under the dictator Salazar (for example, we were told that 60% of the people in the country had no electricity).

    We braved chill winds and some rain to walk through the village to the former town hall and courthouse, now the “Museo do Fresco.” During some renovations in the 1950s, when a wall was removed, the workers discovered behind it a fresco dating to 1340 about corruption—depicting “good and bad government.” It seems they needed a constant reminder there in the hall of justice!

    We couldn’t take photos, but we include an image from a brochure. It shows a two-faced judge (#8) taking bribes—gold from one man (#10) and partridges from another (#11). In contrast is the “good judge,” dressed in white.

    From the hilltop village we could look out over the largest reservoir in Western Europe (97 sq mi). The Alqueva Dam was completed in 2002, and required the removal of people from many small villages in the soon-to-be flooded Guadiana River valley. One village was removed to higher ground and put back together exactly as it had been in the 13th century. It may be Spain’s newest town.    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Real Alcázar (royal palace) gardens
    Real Alcázar (royal palace)Door at the AlcázarDecorative ceiling in the AlcázarReal Alcázar minaret (1180) with gothic bell tower added later on topOrgan in the Cathedral of SevilleCeiling of Chapter house, Cathedral of SevilleIn 1874, thieves cut out the portion depicting Saint Anthony, but it was returned by a gallery ownerMoorish & GothicJust a cool building in SevilleSeville street scene

    Exploring Seville

    10 de março de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We spent the afternoon exploring Seville with a local guide—to the Real Alcázar (royal palace), the cathedral and around the oldest neighborhood of the city — the Barrio Santa Cruz that was the old Jewish quarter.

    The Alcázar was formerly the site of the Moorish fortress of the city, begun in the 10th century and then developed into a larger palace complex over time from the 11th through early 13th centuries. After the Moors were pushed out by the Castilians in 1248, the site was progressively rebuilt and replaced by new palaces and gardens. The Christians liked that the Muslim tower was seismically sound, so they simply added a gothic bell tower on top. The Alcázar was featured in the Game of Thrones (season 6) as the Water Gardens of Dorne, the seat of House Martell.

    The Seville Cathedral is enormous—the largest in Spain (nearly 150,000 square feet in area). It is built on the site of a former mosque, dating to the 12th century. At the cathedral’s completion in the 16th century, it was the largest cathedral in the world (nearly 150,000 sq. feet). The central altar is as high as a five-story building. The tomb of Christopher Columbus is there, but a church in the Dominican Republic also claims to have Columbus. Seville decided to x-ray the tomb and found they only have about 15% of his bones. The other church isn’t doing any further research, so no one really knows where the rest of his remains are.    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    1The Mosque Cathedral in Córdoba
    1Gate facing Mecca--for the imamSkylightsCathedral organMahogany choir seats (10 years to carve)Minaret covered with Gothic bell towerDuring Muslim times these gates would be openHe performed cataract surgery in the 1100sA decorated courtyardPlaques show their awards1Roman bridge in Cordoba1Decorated sidewalk in Cordoba

    Córdoba: Mosque Cathedral & Patios

    11 de março de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Córdoba was once the Moorish capital of nearly all of the Iberian peninsula (and some parts of France, including Carcassonne) as we know those places today, but known as Al-Andalus caliphate starting in the 700s. In Córdoba we visited La Mezquita, an immense mosque dating from the 8th century. The roughly 1,250 columns of the prayer hall were repurposed from buildings from the Roman era, with varying types of stone and different capitals and bases. The disparate columns in the hall are unified by the brick-and-limestone arches everywhere—gives a sort of a hall-of-mirrors feeling.

    As the Muslim population grew, the Moors expanded the original structure three times, up until the end of the 10th century. When Córdoba was captured by the Christian forces of Castile in 1236, the mosque was converted to a cathedral. Not much was done to change the appearance until a Renaissance-style nave was added smack in the center of the vast structure in the 17th century. As for the minaret, unlike the cathedral in Seville, the Catholics built a bell tower around the minaret, covering it completely. Visiting this mosque cathedral was a really unique experience!

    The other thing we did while in Córdoba was to visit the “patios.” These are a carryover from the 1921 “Courtyards, Balconies and Window Displays Competition,” which has now become an annual event. Multi family homes here in this hot summer climate are designed around a central courtyard to provide ventilation for the homes, and the homes provide shade to the courtyard. We visited last year’s top prize winners. The homeowners take great pride in maintaining their living walls.    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Plaza de España - from the 1929 Ibero-American Expo
    Tile detail at Plaza de EspañaCeramic railingDetail of railingsPlaza de España1Robot waiter in Japanese restaurant in Seville

    Seville: Plaza de España & Flamenco

    11 de março de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Returning to Seville from Cordoba, we stopped by the Plaza de España. It was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, which was like a World’s Fair for Spanish-speaking countries (and the U.S. participated as well). Part of Lawrence of Arabia was filmed here, portraying the British consulate in Cairo.

    We didn’t have nearly enough time to explore and appreciate the tilework and ceramic railings, the Venice-like canals (complete with rowboats) and the expansive park across the way. It’s a place you could spend a full day, enjoying lunch in the cafes, discovering the museum and sitting in the sunshine by the fountain.

    In the evening, we had the opportunity to attend a flamenco performance. Flamenco originated in this region of Andalusia, so it’s a big tradition here—shops with frilly dresses in the windows and several “casas del flamenco” for performances. Our show included all the elements of this art form: guitar playing, dance (lots of foot tapping/stomping), hand clapping, finger snapping, and singing (sounded a bit like Arabic chanting).    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Arcos de la Frontera
    ZaharaZaharaZaharaLunch stop in ZaharaScenery on our driveCheese making museum exhibitOld and new cheese moldsCheese tasting1Goat and sheep cheesesFrolicking goat art at the cheesemaker

    Spanish White Villages & Cheese-Making

    12 de março de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Leaving Seville, we traveled 4-5 hours through the Andalusian countryside of the Sierra de Grazalema — a UNESCO-designated biosphere reserve — and its famed white villages. Even though it is a mountainous region, it still gets very hot in summer (120 degrees), so the homes are painted white to keep cooler. Many of the villages had watchtowers for transmitting messages by smoke signals to villages along the mountaintops. It makes for very picturesque scenery!

    This remote and rugged terrain allowed the town to employ guerrilla warfare tactics and put up notable resistance to French occupation during the War of Independence, when the town was occupied by Napoleon's troops between 1810 and 1812.

    A highlight of the day was visiting a small artisan cheesemaker where we learned about the cheese-making process through a guided tour of their small museum and a video. Of course we got to taste the cheeses — all from either goat (Payoyo cheese) or sheep milk. We tasted various lengths of aging (younger, milder softer cheeses through firmer, tangier cheeses). In the old days, they would braid wheat to make the molds for the cheese; these days the molds are washable plastic, but still with the wheat pattern (see photo).    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Ronda's Puente Nuevo ("new bridge")
    RondaJamon (ham) shopArab bathsChanging room for Arab baths - would have had a roofFormer Muslim minaretViews from Ronda (horse training facility, etc.)Along the city wallThe old bridge (and older Arab bridge below)New bridge and two sides of Ronda1Outside the bullringInside the bullringTiled steps in the bullringIn the bullring museumAbove the bullringView of the gorge from the bridgeWalking in the valleyScenes while walking in the valleyView of Ronda on the escarpment from the valley1

    Ronda: A ‘Gorges’ City

    13 de março de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Yesterday’s drive brought us to Ronda, a charming town in a dramatic setting on top of an escarpment, with a lush green valley below. Not only that, but a deep river gorge divides the old and new parts of the town. This was our favorite town of this trip so far because of its unique geography and scenery.

    An excellent local guide, born and still living in Ronda, walked us through the narrow streets and down, down to what’s left of the old Arab baths. The thermal baths are the best preserved of their kind to be found in the Iberian Peninsula, according to the sign there. They are divided into three main zones: cold, warm and hot, following the Roman model. The old hydraulic system remains almost intact (waterwheel, pipes, boiler, etc.).

    From below the village we got a different view of the Puente Nuevo — the “new” bridge that dates from 1793 and spans the 400 foot deep gorge. Underneath this Roman-style bridge is the old 15th century bridge and the still older Moorish bridge, providing access to a former Muslim palace built into the cliff.

    Ronda is noted for having the oldest bull fighting ring in Spain. The town still hosts two bull fights each year. There is a museum in the bullring that explains about the “Real Maestranza De Caballería De Ronda,” Spain’s oldest and most noble order of horsemanship in Spain since 1485 (Spanish inquisition times).

    The day wrapped up with an evening concert by a female flamenco guitarist and composer who performed a range of classical and modern flamenco styles.    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    Tasting fresh unfiltered olive oil
    Olives being ground upFiltering with powdered seaweedTime to taste!Water separated from oilFormer stable in a museum of rural lifeVillage of AlfarnatejoIberian ham appetizerOur lunch hostess' homeScenes from the drive to Granada1Olive trees everywhere2The Alhambra at night

    Olive Oil and Home-hosted Lunch

    14 de março de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Today’s drive took us through a higher mountainous region toward Granada. About halfway through, we visited a farm co-op in Alfarnate to learn about their olive oil production operation.

    Farmers bring their harvest to the co-op where it is weighed to determine the expected volume of oil, translating to how much the farmer gets paid. Farmers only get paid one year later, after all the oil sold, because of price fluctuations. They can borrow from the co-op if they have justified expenses.

    Once the olives are washed and the solids are removed (twigs left from the harvest, pits, stones), they are ground up into a mash (no pressing involved at this facility!). The mash is slightly warmed to make it easier to separate water from the oil in a centrifuge. They must keep it below 80 degrees to be considered “cold press.” Another step in the process is to filter out any remaining impurities. They mix a dried seaweed powder with the oil, which causes the impurities to stick to the seaweed and fall to the bottom of the filter bin.

    The Spanish olive oil was more of a golden color, unlike the greenish cast of the Italian olive oil we learned about last year. It wasn’t as flavorful, either, although the garlic-infused oil was tasty!

    Then we carried on to the village of Alfarnatejo, population 168, for a home-hosted lunch. Unfortunately, this encounter didn’t include conversing with our host as we did in Zimbabwe. We were simply served a delicious rural meal by our friendly but non-English-speaking hostess.

    After getting settled in to our hotel in Granada, the group went out for a light meal at a tapas bar. Note the emphasis on bar—the process here was that you order a drink and they’ll bring you whatever they have on offer to share with your table mates. Then, if you want more ‘free’ food, you need to order another drink. We got two rounds and were satisfied with that.

    Capping off the night, we took a taxi to a viewpoint of the Alhambra at night—a great way to end the day.    Leia mais

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  • Diane and DarrylJourney in Portugal and SpainDiane and Darryl
    In the Alhambra palaceArtisan doing inlay work for saleStreet scene in GrenadaView from our hotel in GrenadaOur Grenada hotel

    The Alhambra Palace

    15 de março de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    The Alhambra is more than a just a palace; it is an entire walled city complex within the city of Granada. There are royal apartments, forts, pavilions, modest homes and extensive gardens. The complex spans 26 acres and housed 3,000 inhabitants at its peak.

    The site was active during the last period of Arab occupation of Spain, as the Moors were pushed further and further south before finally being forced to cede Granada to the Catholics in 1492.

    Historians know that a Moorish fortress existed on the site as early as the 9th century, but the royal residence was not established in the Alhambra until the 13th century. Most of the structures that exist today at the Alhambra were built in the second half of the 14th century.

    Elaborate plaster wall carvings, decorative cedar wood ceilings and tiled walls are the hallmark of this style of architecture. The nearby Sierra Nevada mountains, at over 10,000 feet, supplied fresh water to the settlement (the mountain was beautifully snowy on the day we visited, when temperatures on the ground were in the low 70s!). The Arabs channeled water to their drinking fountains, thermal baths, fountains and gardens.

    We were surprised to find ourselves a bit disappointed in the Alhambra after visiting the Bahia Palace in Marrakech. The site in Marrakech has been beautifully preserved (or restored) and has the feel of still being occupied by the Muslims. The Alhambra fell to the Catholics and was converted for their purposes in many ways, but many Arabic elements remained as well, including inscriptions referencing Allah. We were told that there was a sense that if it was a holy place to one group of people, maybe it will be extra holy if they keep some of the old and add the new Christian elements on top. Who knows?

    We’re headed home tomorrow. Thanks for following our journeys with us!    Leia mais

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    Final da viagem
    15 de março de 2024