In the Kyrgyzstan Countryside

We arrived last evening in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, a country similar in size to Nebraska. New country, new local guide—Farhad. He was an exchange student after high school in Texas (Austin!), and had a perfect American accent.

On our way out of the city this morning, we saw endless lines of trucks on the road carrying Chinese electric vehicles (and other goods) to other parts of Asia and to Russia. Once we cleared the city limits, we were rewarded with green farmlands and distant snowy mountain peaks. Our goal today was to get to know Kyrgyzstan rural life. Land is government-owned; there is no privately owned land. Farmers arrange long-term leases and can pass it on only to family members. No foreigners can lease land.

A real treat today was a visit to a family farm, where we got a demonstration of felt-making and the crafts they make from felt in their co-op. It takes a lot of labor to go from newly sheared sheep wool to layered flat pieces of felt that can be turned into rugs, seat cushions and other items: pounding, soaking in boiling water, rolling tightly in bamboo mats and repeating over again.

The family has been successful with their rural tourism. We were not the only group being served a farm-fresh lunch consisting of several salads, mixed vegetables, beef and potatoes, fresh spreadable cream, raspberry sauce and breads.

Before we left, there were a couple of games to play—sort of a bocce game with small animal vertebrae bones and also trying to sink a nail into a stump with the fewest number of hammer strikes. All good fun!

But the games were not over yet. We were driven to a field to watch some horse games dating from the 10th century, and still played today. The country name, Kyrgyzstan means “40 tribes united.” Back when the tribes were not united, these horse games were a way of solving conflict between tribes.

There was a red-jersey team and a green team and a referee. A young boy dropped packets of stones wrapped in fabric in the middle of the field and each team had to trot by on their horse, lean over and try to scoop up some of the packets. It takes a lot of balance and dexterity! Many were not successful, but one guy was especially good. Next up was a game we’d heard about (Kok-Boru), played with a dead goat carcass weighing about 50 pounds. Again, the players have to scoop up this heavy and unwieldy object, trot down the field and try to throw it into their goal. Opposing players try to wrestle it away from them and block their access to the goal.

By the way, this wasn’t just a show for us, the two teams were playing a match, and ultimately preparing for a tournament. There is something called the World Nomad Games, and in 2018, a U.S. team from Wyoming (cowboys) came to the games and did very well.

Later, we climbed around the archaeological site at Burana Tower, one of the only existing watchtowers on the Silk Road, and visited its small museum of artifacts.

We wrapped up the day with a beautiful drive through the mountains, then dinner in a yurt restaurant with a traditional musical performance.Read more