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Peruvian Amazon & Machu Picchu
  • Diane and Darryl
Oct – Nov 2021

Peruvian Amazon & Machu Picchu

A 14-day adventure by Diane Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 19, 2021
    Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Ficus tree
    River cabinsInside our cabinAlejandro and the strangler ficusA variety of cacao seedBananas grow like weedsSquirrel monkeysGrasshopper

    The Peruvian Amazon

    October 19, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    A morning flight from Lima brought us to Puerto Maldonado, at the confluence of the Tambopata and Madre de Dios rivers, in the Amazon rainforest of Peru. Even though we associate the Amazon with Brazil, the river originates in Peru, near Bolivia.

    We connected with our guide, Alejandro, from Amazon Planet, which is one of several eco-lodges in the area. We set off on an hour-long boat ride to the lodge. After settling in to our open-air (but screened) cabin, we were served the first of many sumptuous meals (lunch, in this case) of traditional Peruvian fare.

    Amazon Planet arranges multi-day activity packages designed to introduce visitors to the rainforest. After lunch we walked the ecolodge’s trails, where Alejandro talked to us about the native trees, plants, insects and birds we were hearing (and sometimes seeing).

    As dusk came on, we watched the 50 or so squirrel monkeys heading back to their beds for the night. Full dark is by 6:30pm, so we went on a night walk with Alejandro before dinner and saw SO MANY tarantulas outside their burrows at the bases of trees. We also got to see a nocturnal monkey (black-headed night monkey).    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    In the canopy of the Kapok tree
    The view from our room at Amazon Planet eco-lodgeSap from dragon's blood treeAlejandro making a salve from the dragon's blood tree sapTamarind monkeyAlejandro showing how strong the vines areSeveral types of fungus around hereOwl butterflyThe swinging bridge to the canopy platformFicus tree roots are massive!Jewel-like colored insectView from another observation playform at Taricaya

    Over and Under the Amazon Rainforest

    October 20, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 91 °F

    In the morning we walked through the rainforest to a canopy lookout built into a Kapok (Ceiba) tree. The platform was built for researchers to monitor the fauna of the forest canopy. Since 2004, over 150 species of birds have been recorded from this platform.

    Along the way to the platform, Alejandro pointed out more interesting trees and plants. The ‘garlic tree’ perfumes the air around it with a pungent smell. The sap of the dragon’s blood tree, which starts out as deep red drops can be rubbed into the skin where it is emulsified into a cream for treating wounds. The walking palm tree, which we learned about in Australia, sends out leg-like roots above ground to move the tree closer to water sources.

    We also spotted our third species of monkey of the trip, the Tamarind monkey. There is a better photo of this monkey that we saw at the rescue center in the afternoon (see next entry).

    The swinging walkway to the canopy platform was long and a bit scary, but the view over the forest is spectacular.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Tamarind monkey
    Taricaya's projectsOne of the animals at the wildlife rescue centerHowler monkeysBlack spider monkeysToucanMacaw on the grounds of the centerHanging nests of the oropendula birdThe funny movements and call if the oropendulaArtificial beach with newly hatched turtlesBaby turtleWhite cayman

    Wildlife Rescue Center & Cayman Spotting

    October 20, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 91 °F

    Later on our second day in the Amazon, we walked through the forest to visit the Taricaya Conservation Research Reserve and its wildlife rescue center.

    Taricaya is a private entity, not government funded, and relies solely on grants and donations to carry out its work of rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing animals that have been poached, or orphaned, or in one case, kept in cruel conditions in a circus. We met the founder of this organization, Fernando. He is passionate about conserving the flora and fauna of the rainforest, and one of his many projects is to teach the local people how to plant more sustainable farms. He said they tend to plant bananas, which are easy to grow, but exhaust the soil after 4-5 years. He’s working on getting them to plant mahogany trees among the bananas so they have a source of quick income from the fruit, and a more long-term crop when the bananas stop producing.

    Like everything else, Taricaya has been affected by the pandemic because they rely heavily upon volunteers. When the world shut down, most volunteers had to leave and no new helpers could come in. Several of the research projects had to go on hiatus because of lack of volunteers. They have had to scale back their turtle rescue project, where volunteers collected turtle eggs from the riverbank beach before poachers came to collect and sell them. Taricaya workers built artificial beaches in boxes at the center and dug the eggs into the sand to incubate. When the turtles hatch, they are gathered up to be returned to the same beach where they were initially laid. We watched a short video of the turtle release, and as soon as they were out of their tubs, they ran right to the river. Our photos show just some of the variety of animals that have been rescued and will eventually be released.

    Some of the birds weren’t rescues, they were just on the property. One in particular that we hear all the time is the oropendula bird. It has a funny almost hiccuping call, and it tips its whole body like a pendulum. The ‘oro’ is because of its yellow wings. Check out our short video.

    Later that day, after dark, we went out on the boat to see if we could spot caymans (alligator relative). We saw several, but usually they swam away from our flashlights pretty quickly. The one in our photo posed nicely for us.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Early start upriver on a warm day
    Leaf-cutter antsMoths on the side if the boardwalkTambopata Reserve entranceCanal leading to the lakeCormorantsTiger heronCocoi heron (related to Great Blue)Sunset on our own raft

    Sunrise to Sunset, Lake and River

    October 21, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 95 °F

    We had to get an early start today because it was going to be even warmer than the previous days—probably around 95 and very humid as usual. There’s no wi-fi or cell reception at the lodge, so we’re not sure about the temperature, but we are sure it’s uncomfortable! However, the bugs haven’t been bothersome.

    Before 5:30 am we were in the lodge boat with Alejandro heading upriver to the Tambopata National Reserve. The sunrise was spectacular and the full moon was setting in the sky across the horizon.

    There is a boardwalk path of about 2 miles to get to Lake Sandoval, where we hoped to see giant river otters from our canoe. The lake was formed when an oxbow from the Madre de Dios river closed it in.

    Along the shaded, but not really cool walkway, we saw lots of leaf-cutter ants at work. We were told that they bring the leaf pieces back to their nests to do a little farming. They chew up the leaves, spit them out, and wait for a fungus to grow as a food source.

    Once in the heavy wooden canoe (with massive, heavy paddles!) we paddled down a canal to the river. We saw lots of interesting birds, as well as turtles, but no giant otters.

    For our last activity, we were taken upriver in the motorboat, then we launched off in a rubber raft to float downriver at sunset. It was a bit cooler by then, and a peaceful way to spend our last day in the Amazon.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Heading back to Puerto Maldonaldo
    Flood-damaged sign at TaricayaFlowering vineFungusAchiote treeHibiscus on the grounds of Amazon Planet

    Farewell to the Amazon

    October 22, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 93 °F

    This concluded our Amazon adventure, and it was time to move on, first by boat to Puerto Maldonado, then by plane back to Lima. (Check out Puerto Maldonado’s ‘Golden Gate Bridge’ in the background of our photo!)

    Tourism is just beginning to return to this part of the Amazon. For our first two nights there was a group of about six other guests—there to make a video about the Amazon rainforest. They were friends of the owner. After that, we were the only guests—a bit strange.

    While the pandemic has impacted tourism, something more immediately destructive created a severe challenge to the area this year. In mid-February, the Madre de Dios river overflowed its banks following heavy rain. Puerto Maldonado recorded 6 inches of rain in 24 hours. Over the course of a week, the river level rose some 50 feet, and didn’t recede for at least a month. At our lodge, the cabins and main house were flooded and much of their demonstration agricultural plot was washed away. Much of

    At the Taricaya Wildlife Center, there was a mad scramble to get the caged animals to safer ground. Fernando’s mahogany woodworking shop where he held community workshops, was badly damaged. Many of the signs in the area show evidence of the muddy floodwaters.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Oracle at Pachacamac
    "Finishing school" for girlsTemple of the SunInca RoadInca Road systemTextile artifact found at the siteFuneral masks found at the siteCeviche lunch!Kennedy Park

    Lima - Pachacamac Archaeological Site

    October 23, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today we took a half-day private tour to Pachacamac, about 20 miles south of downtown Lima. Pachacamac was a pilgrimage site dating from pre-Incan times, beginning around 200 AD. Representatives from distant areas would come to consult the oracle at the temple about agricultural prospects, natural disasters, etc. As time went on and cultures faded and new ones took their place, more and more administrative buildings and dwellings were built and existing structures enlarged.

    By the time the Incas arrived and occupied Pachacamac (around 1450 AD) the city was so powerful that the Incas feared to tamper with the religious beliefs of the population. Even though it was unusual for them, the Inca allowed the god Pacha Kamaq to co-exist along their own sun god Inti.

    The Incas built two more pyramid temples on the site — the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon. The Inca Trail passes through here and is part of a road system built from Columbia to Santiago, Chile, for the purpose of expanding their empire through commerce and military activities.

    The site is vast and only a fraction of it has been excavated. Our guide was excellent and shared so much knowledge about the archaeological site and about Lima and Peru in general. We really enjoyed our time with Saul from Haka Tours.

    When we got back to our hotel neighborhood we got some typical Lima fare for lunch — ceviche for Diane (not as good as yours, Nance!), and shrimp chaufa (like fried rice). Since it’s Saturday, many families were enjoying Kennedy Park, in honor of JFK (not sure why). The sign at the park said he was regarded as an icon of American hopes and aspirations.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Plaza de Armas
    President Castillo's home & ministry officesLots of Moorish influence hereCrypt of Francisco PizzaroIn the Cathedral at Plaza de ArmasCasa de AliagaDining room at Casa de Aliaga(Azul, Ryan!)

    Lima City

    October 24, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today we met our tour group and set off for a walking tour of the historic city center, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

    Whereas yesterday we explored pre-Columbian sites, today was all about the arrival of the Conquistadors in the 1530s. After defeating the Incans in Cusco, the Spanish leader, Francisco Pizzaro established Lima as the capitol of Peru—most of western South America at the time.

    The Spanish conquest took about 40 years to complete, despite many attempts by the Inca to regain their empire. The Spanish controlled Peru for the next 200 years. The bicentennial of Peruvian independence was celebrated this year.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Looking over the Sacred Valley
    Pisac market villagePisac market villageDrainage down the middle of the pathSilver workingUnfinished top floorsWildfire, not threatening the villages belowColorful walls in PisacEmpenada oven

    To the Andes

    October 25, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    A one-hour flight from Lima took us to Cuzco, which is at an elevation of 11,000 feet. But to get us acclimated to the altitude, our destinations for the next few days are in villages at lower elevations — ‘only’ 9,000 feet. (Did you know it’s a little hard to breathe wearing a mask at high elevations)?

    Our bus took us first to the village of Pisac, known for its colorful handicrafts market. The craftspeople showed us how to distinguish between baby alpaca wool garments and ‘maybe’ alpaca (synthetics). A sweater made from baby alpaca, which is the first shearing of the animal, not an actual baby’s ‘fur’, is heavy in weight and cool to the touch.

    We also got an introduction about how to evaluate silverwork for purity of silver. These craftspeople like to use a higher ratio of silver to copper than in sterling silver, which means that it is less likely to tarnish—but it is softer. The knockoff silver (which may have a fake stamp indicating a high ratio of silver) has much more copper and looks nice and shiny now but is yellow-toned and will tarnish.

    After a late lunch, we drove along a beautiful river valley called the Sacred Valley. The indigenous people believed that the river was the land counterpart to the Milky Way (because everything needs to be in pairs—sun/moon, day/night, etc.).

    A curious thing we learned about home-building in Peru is that the owners often leave the top level(s) unfinished, with just some rebar sticking up (often covered with plastic water bottles to prevent rusting of the cut ends). The parents add levels to their homes for their grown children to live in. Until the children are ready to move out of their parents’ house, and while the parents save enough to afford the construction, they leave the levels unfinished. We also heard it’s a way to avoid the higher taxes of a larger finished home.

    It seems we can’t escape wildfires. The farmers set controlled burns before planting to add minerals in the ash back into the soil. But this being a windy area, these fires often get out of control on the steep hillsides.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    View from the Sun Temple
    Ancient agricultural experiment stationFarming terracesTight stone constructionMassive stones with expansion jointsView of the countryside from the bus

    Archaelogical Sites

    October 26, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    The main site today was to Ollantaytambo, an ancient city high in the Andes (9,000 feet), dating to pre-Incan times. In the middle of the 15th century, Incan leader Pachacutec essentially destroyed the town (but not the people) to build a temple (the Sun Temple), as well as farms with irrigation and homes, to incorporate it into the Incan Empire. Pachacutec was known as the Alexander the Great of the Incans, a city builder. They used mortise and tenon joints in their construction, resulting in massive stones were perfectly fitted together.

    We then moved on to an Incan experimental agricultural “laboratory.” The Incans were interested in adapting crops to a wider range of elevations and climates.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Grinding stone
    Welcoming us with musicTraditional lunchOffering CeremonyToast to the farm toolsPlowing techniquePablo Seminario, ceramics artistHis latest sculpturesAlpacasOur lodgings at night

    Meeting the Locals

    October 26, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    After the archaeological site visits, we were invited to lunch at the home and farm of a Quechua family. Quechua are a pre-Incan culture. All of the food served to us was grown by them. We started with a cream of corn soup. Nearly every meal has corn, since it’s their one of their primary crops. Peru has 55 varieties of corn (and over 3800 varieties of potatoes!). The main course was a quinoa “stir fry” and dessert was a pudding of purple corn. All delicious!

    After lunch, the family shared a traditional ceremony they perform during the planting season. They give offerings to Mother Earth (Pachamama) as a way to give back for what they expect to harvest. There is even a ‘toast’ with corn beer, which is sipped by the participants and is also sprinkled on their farm tools and finally into the earth. It was a really nice experience.

    Another excursion for the day was a stop at the home and studio of ceramic artist Pablo Seminario. Both he and his wife, Marilu Behar, create pieces based on the techniques and styles of the ancient cultures of Peru. All of their colors are made from natural minerals, and for Pablo’s latest pieces, he’s using an airbrush to apply the color. His sculptures are exhibited all over the world, including the Field Museum in Chicago and the World Bank.

    The last of the locals we met today are at our lodgings— alpacas!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Farming terracesThe less than perfect stone construction indicates a storage facility--the best was for templesThe pointed sides of buildings would have had thatched roofsRoof construction replicaArtist's rendition of Machu Picchu during the time of the IncasMachu Picchu sits high above the Urubamba RiverGrazing llamasThe grassy area was for large celebrations or ceremoniesHanging steps, allowing planting underneathWater mirrors for astronomical observations1

    Machu Picchu!

    October 27, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    The Incans arrived in the Machu Picchu area around 1450, and under Emperor Pachacutec (remember the city builder?), they set to work constructing the city and temples and improving the existing farming terraces. Machu Picchu was still under construction when the Spanish arrived to conquer the Incan empire in the mid 1500s. Before the Spanish could find and destroy Machu Picchu, the Incans abandoned the city and destroyed the trails leading to it. Locals continued to farm the lower terraces, but the bulk of Machu Picchu became overgrown and lost to the outside world.

    It wasn’t until 1911 when Hiram Bingham came to the area looking for another lost city, that Machu Picchu’s existence became known to the outside world.

    Only a few structures have been restored to show as examples to visitors, but most have just been cleared of jungle overgrowth. It’s a testament to the skillful construction abilities of the Incas that so much of the structures are still relatively intact. Our very informative guide explained how the Incas built “hanging” steps to connect the farming terraces so they wouldn’t take up any arable land for growing crops (see our photo).

    It was so fun to see the llamas that the Park Service maintains in Machu Picchu. They graze the farming terraces, preventing them from becoming overgrown.

    On a more recent note, floods and a mudslide in 2010 washed out roads and sections of a railway, stranding 3,500 tourists at Machu Picchu. It took 4 days to evacuate them by helicopter. In the village adjacent to Machu Picchu, where most tourists stay, the ATMs were emptied out as tourists sought to adapt to a stay that was longer than the one-night excursion they’d planned.

    By the way, the weather on this trip has been fantastic so far. Yes, the Amazon was uncomfortably humid near the end, but we’ve really only had rain at night or while driving. Considering that Machu Picchu is a “mountain rainforest,” we’ve really lucked out.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Sunrise at Machu Picchu
    Setting out with our tour friendsCrowd-free views!Our goal is the top!The easy partBrief sunlight hits Machu PicchuBus road, Machu Picchu, river belowNear the top!We made it!

    Sunrise trek at Machu Picchu

    October 28, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Our tour package included a 6am entrance into Machu Picchu and the opportunity to trek to Waynapicchu, the peak that dominates all the photos of Machu Picchu. It was cloudy, and we got some dramatic views of the cloud forest. Being at the site with almost no one around (and without a guide) was wonderful as well.

    The trek is a steep 1+ hour hike up irregular Inca-laid steps to a military lookout station. The site has a commanding view of the main Machu Picchu complex, as well as the river and the tourist village of Aguas Caliente. From there, we got a real sense of how crazy steep the mountain site is where Machu Picchu was built.

    Of the 11 who came for sunrise, five of us were up for the trek. We hiked 1,100 feet up to around an elevation of 9,000 feet. We were better acclimated than a few days ago, but it was still tough. The views at the end and along the way were well worth it!    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Cheese vendor at San Pedro market
    Holiday breadsIncan and Colonial constructionRoom in the Golden TempleIncan gold plating in the templeColonial frescoes replaced the gold wallsStone joineryComplex joinery behind the wallsSacsayhuamán FortressIncan puzzles at Sacsayhuamán

    Cuzco Public Market & Historic Sites

    October 29, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    After a long travel afternoon from Machu Picchu yesterday, we arrived in Cuzco. The city was the center of the Incan Empire, and its Quechua name, Qosqo, translates to the “navel of the world.”

    Now, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a bustling center of tourist attractions, as well as a very livable city for everyday people. Our tour guides are all from Cusco.

    We started the day with a trip to San Pedro Market, a kind of farmer’s market that operates every day. Our guide took us to her usual shopping stalls and explained some of the traditions and uses for some of the unfamiliar foods. Two holidays are coming up — Reformation Day and All Saints Day, so some special breads and flower arrangements are on display for sale.

    We tried to get to an archaeological site, but the roads were temporarily blocked for a visit by President Castillo. For security reasons, the site of his meeting wasn’t revealed ahead of time, so the tour company couldn’t anticipate this.

    So we went to a Spanish colonial church and monastery built on the foundations of the “Golden Temple”built for the Sun God, Inti. The walls and floors of the temple were covered with sheets of gold. The conquerors tore down the gold adornments and covered the walls with frescoes. It wasn’t until an earthquake in 1950 severely damaged the Dominican complex that it was decided to reveal the Incan structures in one part of the site. Now you can see both the colonial and Incan structures side by side. Also on display were the various methods used to join the large stones—such as mortise and tenon, but also brass rings, “][” shapes and many more techniques. These were never visible, leaving a smooth outer surface.

    We did eventually get to the Sacsayhuamán archaeological complex built as a fortified city by the Inca in the 1400s. Archeological evidence indicates that the earliest occupation of the hilltop dates to about 900 CE. Since Peru didn’t begin protecting any of its historic sites until 1941, the site was subject to parties and looting of its stones (how do you steal a 1 ton rock?)    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Collette group tour members
    Fancy dessertAnother dessert"John the Baptist" rice, chicken in leafMain ingredient for Pisco Sour cocktailKantu, National flower of PeruOrchidOrchidOrchidOrchidTypical knit handicraftIn Machu Picchu (Aguas Caliente town)

    Travel Day, Miscellaneous Photos

    October 30, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    COVID times have canceled many domestic flights, so instead of a 30-minute flight from Cuzco to the Lake Titicaca area, we spent 5 hours traveling via Lima. So nothing special to report for today. However, we thought we’d share some things we’ve learned from our guides, and a few random thoughts.

    Peru only recently became widely open to tourists. From the 1980s to the early 1990s, the terrorist organization called the Shining Path made it unsafe for travelers, particularly in the Amazon and Machu Picchu. Their leader recently died after a long imprisonment, but the group is still operating on a smaller scale in some parts of the northern Andes.

    The COVID-19 protocols here have been quite strict, which is reassuring. Double masks are required in airports and on planes. We wipe our feet on doormats with disinfectant before entering any indoor space, including buses; we are greeted by an attendant dispensing hand sanitizer (or directed to sinks for washing), and usually a temperature check; and single masks are required outdoors at all times. All of the residents we’ve seen are compliant. For our climbs around the archaeological sites, where the air is thin, we were lucky that they had slightly loosened the mask requirements a week ago. Around Lima, the population is 60% vaccinated; for the country as a whole, it is in the mid-40% range.

    Darryl has found a few wild orchids, but there aren’t as many on view as there will be when the rainy season starts in another month.

    There is mandatory voting in Peru, and residents are fined if they don’t vote. Each receives a sticker in their ID card. If you don’t pay the fine, you can’t travel about the country. Some politicians would like to change the mandatory voting requirement because some of the rural and indigenous people don’t care about the election and their votes can be easily bought.

    We would never rent a car and drive ourselves around anywhere in Peru. Kudos to our bus drivers!

    The Peruvians are proud of their culinary skills and how their cuisine has become world renowned. The food presentation was always attractive, and in general, the dishes were very tasty. We did find that the meats were often overcooked for our tastes. Ceviche is a national dish and there are probably as many ways to prepare it as there are restaurants — from near-sushi to smoked in a leaf.

    Our tour group of 23 (now 22 due to a dropout who seriously underestimated the requirements of the trip), is on the older side of our usual tour travelers, but everyone is friendly, flexible and enthusiastic about the activities. Our tour manager, David, is full of great information and our local day-tour guides have been passionate and informative.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    A bay of Lake Titicaca (view from our room)
    Reed boat on Uros floating islandsGreeting from Aymara chiefSongs from Aymara womenView of a floating islandDemonstration of cutting the reed rootsModel of an islandCooking areaBird callsWe got to ride in a traditional reed boatSillustani burial siteA funerary tower at SillustaniView of the construction of the tomb

    Uros Floating Islands & Sillustani Tombs

    October 31, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We are in Puno, a city at 12,000 feet elevation—our highest on this trip. Our hotel is on a “bulb” of land in Lake Titicaca, and every room has a lake view. The lake is 100 miles long and is shared by both Peru and Bolivia. It is the highest navigable lake in the world.

    A motor boat picked us up from our hotel to take us out to Uros to meet the Aymara people, an indigenous culture who live on islands built from reeds in Lake Titicaca. There are about 100 islands, each holding an extended family. Each island has a president or chief, and the cluster of islands overall has a mayor.

    The president of one island welcomed us with a speech in the Aymara language. Fortunately, our local guide could interpret for us. He showed us how they build their floating islands, starting from cutting the thick roots of the reed beds from the 88,000 acres of reeds on the mainland. The chunks of matted reed roots will float, and then reeds are layered on top, and finally houses and cooking areas are built. They need to add fresh reeds to the top every few weeks, but an island will usually last about 40 to 50 years. The islands are anchored so they don’t float around. Otherwise, they might end up in Bolivia without a passport!

    We were treated to a demonstration of the bird calls the men use to attract water birds for hunting. We also got to travel on one of their traditional reed boats to another island. Thor Heyerdahl commissioned the Aymara people of Uros to build a boat, the Ra II, for his expeditions in 1969-1970.

    The Uros people are not strictly living a primitive lifestyle. They have small solar panels to power an LED bulb or two, and the president’s house had a TV. There is a school and health clinic onshore, as well as using their own healers and midwives. They also use motor boats for fishing and going to market in town. Many of the younger people left to live and get jobs on the mainland during COVID, since their main source of income, tourism, was gone and they weren’t adept at the traditional way of supporting themselves with hunting and planting.

    After lunch at an alpaca farm, we set off to see another pre-Incan archaeological site—this time to a burial grounds for the nobility. Large funerary towers known as "chullpas" are distributed across the Sillustani site, representing various eras and styles of construction.

    There is evidence of occupation of the site from as far back as 800 B.C., but the structures we saw likely dated from 1100-1400. Over time, the tomb construction progressed from completely underground to tall towers. A lightning strike destroyed part of one tower, which allows a view of the layers of construction.    Read more

  • Diane and DarrylPeruvian Amazon & Machu PicchuDiane and Darryl
    Gold headdress
    Ceramics in visible storageFunerary mantle over 2,500 years oldTapestry close-upWooden carved sculpture, ca 1000 ADSilver shirt, possibly as old as 800 AD

    Last Day, Larco Museum in Lima

    November 1, 2021 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    On our last day with the Collette tour group, we flew from Puno (floating islands) to Lima and were taken by bus to the Larco Museum downtown. The museum houses a vast collection of pre-Incan artifacts that Rafael Larco’s father, and then Larco himself, collected. There are over 30,000 pieces housed at the museum — so many, that not all are on display, but set out on ‘visible storage’ shelves. The collection spans a 5,000-year time period.

    We were told at the museum that some of the first artifacts of the collection were found as the workers were digging the fields and that the Larcos ‘rescued’ the artifacts before tomb robbers could send them out of the country for a profit. Other sources say that the Larcos may have employed some freelance grave robbers themselves.

    In any case, it is a stunningly well-preserved collection of ceramics, stone figures, gold and silver headdress and facial adornments, and a few tapestries. Because the pieces had been buried underground in stone, and in extremely dry conditions, the colors are still so vibrant. We were told that these pieces did not go through any restoration.

    After a farewell dinner at the museum’s restaurant, we were on our way to the airport for our flights home.    Read more

    Trip end
    November 1, 2021
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