Ecuador
Acacia

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    • Day 83

      Tour shopping

      July 28, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Breakfast was a disappointing 2 slices of white bread, soft cheese, jam, fresh oj and hot chocolate or instant coffee - to Anna's disgust...the reception man said something about ringing us earlier for coffee so maybe there was fresh coffee at some point but we didn't have a phone call?!

      Guayaquil is not supposed to be very nice or with much worth seeing so we had hoped to get in and out as quickly as possible but after spending a short time here we totally disagree.

      Whilst last night was pretty much deserted and the walk to the malecon involved a dodgy walk through a virtually deserted market, today was heaving with people and cars.

      First stop (after finding truffle magnums!) was the iguana park, a small park in the middle of the city full of hundreds of iguanas that are fed daily. There is also a pond full of fish and tortoises, plus another pit full of hundreds of tortoises piled on top of each other. There were iguanas everywhere including over 50 up one tree - whilst trying to count them I looked down and said there's a lot of poop on the floor here and moved back a step, just as one of them sprayed us from above...lucky escape!

      We wandered up the main street (9 Octobre) away from the river and got Anna some proper coffee and me a dunkin donut. We visited a few travel agencies looking for our Galapagos tour but they were only selling land tours and spoke little English, so we looked in the LP and it was actually of some use. We ended up at Hostal Suites Madrid, a hostel which also does tours and after 2 hours and 2 trips to the cashpoint we were all sorted. Unfortunately it's high season so there wasn't a ton of last minute deals available but we are lucky that we have a few weeks to play with as we have a few stops to make but need to come back this way before heading to Quito. We got some flights, a 5 day cruise with 50% off and extra days on the islands either side for a small fortune!! An added bonus is that the flight back takes is to Quito so we don't need to do another long bus trip through the mountains. Luckily we could pay for most of it by credit card with no extra charges which is unusual here.

      Then we continued down the road, stopping at Ali Baba (another LP recommendation) for some lovely falafel wraps for dinner ($10).

      Afterwards we continued on the street until we reached the Estero Salado malecon, a much smaller boardwalk which had an unexpected beautiful coloured water fountain display from a barge, set to classical music. We also walked along a beautifully lit path by the river.

      On the way back we stopped for frozen yogurt - Anna had a huge one with fruit, I had a much smaller one with chocolate toppings ($3.50) and got a cab back to the hotel ($3).

      We both love Guayaquil...plenty of food choices, very clean, very modern, tons of statues and nice buildings, the people walk at almost normal speed (though do stare at us a fair bit - the older men seem to love trying to chat to us!) and don't understand why it's so overlooked.
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    • Day 2

      Guayaquil

      November 18, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      In Ecuador's largest city for two days before flying to the Galapagos Islands. Touched down at 3am but had to wait at airport until 8am before could check in - 5 hours of boredom.

      Took a taxi to hotel. Driver locked the doors the moment we left the airport compound (very reassuring) and proceeded to speed manically through the morning traffic, utilizing all four 'lanes' on offer. You know you've got a problem when the driver is using his horn more than his indicators. Did only charge the three of us $6 US in fairness.

      Spent the day wandering the waterfront (pics attached). Good food is as rare as good drivers here - mostly deep-fried or sweets, with few vegetables on offer. Questionable hygiene standards as well - food does sometimes come out colder than it should, despite an insistence it be served 'caliente' (hot).

      The one business booming here seems to be private security . A key indicator a chasm exists between the 'haves' and the 'have nots' is when the haves begin to essentially raise private armies to protect their property. Every store here has erected barbed wire and employs a security guard, sporting a Kevlar vest and twirling his half-metre baton. Nothing like a bit of muscle to assure you that everything's well under control...

      Pics: 1) The Malecon district waterfront (where all the haves live)
      2) Southern Guayaquil, yet to be gentrified (the nots reside in those shanties beyond the white (or is it ivory?) tower).
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    • Day 82

      Ecuador! (sung as per Sash)

      July 27, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Currency = US dollars (£1 = $1.5).

      We bid our sad farewells to the bungalow staff who have been so lovely to us. Martina drove us to the bus stop for 9:40am and luckily we were there the requisite 20 mins early as we were bundled on and left immediately - presumably to get a head start on the nightmare border crossing (supposedly the worst in S America).

      We chose Cruz del Sur (112P) as it was the only daytime bus and we had heard dodgy stories about night crossings. Despite booking a few days in advance they didn't have 2 seats together but my neighbour didn't show up so we were fine.

      After a short drive along the coast we came to a checkpoint, waited on the hot stuffy bus, then all got off the bus, showed our passports and got back on the bus. No idea what this was about - checking numbers one lady told us.

      Another hour down the coast and we got to the border, which took 2 hours for 2 stamps. There weren't many people, it was just really slow for no real reason. The official asked if it was our first visit to Ecuador and promptly gave us a safety leaflet which made us feel good! The cities don't have the best reputation for safety, but then neither does London.

      As soon as we entered Ecuador the landscape suddenly changed from dry deserty hills to lush greenery and then millions of banana plantations.

      We hadn't been on the road long when we were stopped and all had to get off while the bus drove very slowly through this giant machine which we think must have been an xray as it had radiation warning signs. Shortly after this stop, we were stopped again and a police lady came aboard to check all of our immigration stamps. They are uber keen here!

      Then we drove the rest of the way, through more banana fields, which were damp with rain - a sight we haven't seen for some time!

      We arrived in Guayaquil at 7:30pm, the largest Ecuadorian city and entered the bus terminal which is ginormous!! Most bus terminals are big here but this was on another level. More like a shopping centre, super clean and massive! We felt like we have reentered civilisation! It is very Americanised - no incessant horn beepings, modern cars and fast food outlets everywhere. Anna's extensive? research had told me to expect more of a backward country, but apparently medical care is free here so I should have waited for my operation!

      We got a yellow cab ($5) to Hotel Jira ($35) which is far nicer than expected - there are few budget hotels in the city center and most have scathing reviews so I hadn't hoped for much.

      Then we went for an evening stroll along the Malecon (boardwalk along the river) which again was very modern, clean and nice. The few blocks between our hotel and the river are a bit dodgy but seem ok.

      We came across a McDonald's and much to my disgust Anna decided to go there for dinner. We'd been fed good food on the bus for lunch so weren't overly hungry but she had a cheeseburger, we shared some fries and I had an Oreo mcflurry which was lovely ($5).
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    • Day 84

      Guayaquil (pronounced waakeel)

      July 29, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      This morning we walked the whole length of the 2.5km boardwalk along the river to Santa Ana - a hill full of colourful shanty houses.

      There are 444 numbered steps to the top and then a small lighthouse to climb. It was much hotter today so we were toasty by the time we reached the top. There were policemen round every corner who would discreetly keep track of all the tourists via walkie talkies to make sure none of us went missing! We were closely monitored and weren't allowed to veer off down any side streets.

      On the way back down we were hoping to stop at the pirate ship bar for a cool drink but it was closed :(

      We walked back to 9 Octobre street in search of a camera as there are actual proper shops here! There wasn't a great deal of choice and they are all expensive as imported goods are heavily taxed. However, Anna was desperate to have a proper camera for the Galapagos so we got a waterproof fujifilm XP50 ($295) - however I shan't let her touch it as she'll break it.

      Having had a not so healthy cheese toasted flat bread and donut for lunch at Dunkin Donuts, I had a strange craving for McDonald's for dinner (I usually avoid fast food like the plague) and had my first cheeseburger in over ten years. It was actually quite good. There are a lot of fast food joints but few actual restaurants and after a day of sweating we appreciated a good dose of unhealthy salt!

      To make up for it we picked up an apple and banana each on our way home - my first full banana ever. Anna is making me try new things - a sip of coffee today and swordfish in Mancora! We were both shattered after doing so much walking the last couple of days compared to our lazy existence in Mancora, combined with sleeping poorly the last couple of nights, we just about stumbled back to the hotel.
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