Vera to Cuevas del Almanzora

What a wonderful day! It was like somebody laid out a mystery in front of us, and then slowly revealed the answer in tantalizing pieces with one grand denouement. We started our walk wondering howLeer más
Cuevas: Caves and a reservoir

You can see from a glance at the photos that today’s walk was like stepping into a painting! The cliffs just north of town were bathed in an early morning light that perfectly silhouetted the moreLeer más
Repositioning

Very surprisingly, there are no longer any hotels open in the city of Huércal-Overa (pop 20,000). There were four before Covid, but none of them are open now, so if we walked from Cuevas delLeer más
Huercal-Overa Via Verde

Stage 8 of the Ruta del Argar from Huercal Overa to Almendricos runs along the line of the abandoned Guadix-Almendricos railroad, now reopened as a via verde (greenway). We had really been lookingLeer más
Lorca: New shoes

It’s hard to be on a walking trip and not be able to walk comfortably. So we took advantage of our arrival in the big city of Lorca to check out some shoe options that might be able to help. For theLeer más
Lorca: Easter Sunday

Today was another of our very lucky encounters. As we were walking to the Colegiata San Patricio to watch the Easter Sunday procession, we saw a group of people dressed in purple robes assembling.Leer más
Turre: Our poles are home!

This morning we woke up to a very pleasant surprise. Our hiking poles that British Air failed to deliver have now completed their own month-long mini-vacation and are back on Shaw! Thanks to the AppleLeer más
Bérchules: in the mountains

Lorca marked the end of the Ruta del Argar from Almería to Lorca, and we are now moving to Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas in the province of Jaén, the largestLeer más
Bérchules: The book!

Three years ago, I saw some really intriguing information online: maps of the Alpujarra showing what the villages looked like during Muslim times a thousand years ago; drawings illustrating theLeer más
Bérchules: the village

Ned walked to Bérchules today to get groceries and on the way had an interesting conversation with a man he met working in an orchard. José is a firefighter employed by the forestry agency in theLeer más
Bérchules to Cazorla: Over the pass

In all the length of the Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada, from the vicinity of Granada on the west to the vicinity of Almeria on the east, a distance of over 100 km, there is only one N-S road crossingLeer más
Cazorla: Río Cerezuelo trail

The Río Cerezuelo flows right through the middle of the town of Cazorla. In fact, when the Parroquia de Santa María was built during the Renaissance, the architect had to tunnel the river under theLeer más
Cazorla: up to the Ermita

Today’s hike had so much straight up and straight down that I had to revive myself with chocolate cookies before I had enough energy to eat lunch! You can’t really tell from the photos, but weLeer más
Casa Berrea: Embalse de Aguascebas

If you are looking for a heavenly place to stay in the mountains of Spain, Casa Rural Senda de la Berrea is the spot to pick! We are surrounded by rocky peaks, trails leave right from our door, andLeer más
Casa Berrea: Navazalto Peak

They say that if you are very quiet and still, you may see residents of the nearby colony of Griffon vultures when you reach the fire lookout at the top of Navazalto. We were not lucky enough to seeLeer más
Casa Berrea: Tornajos

We stumbled upon a rare find today: wooden tornajos (livestock watering troughs) from many years ago, now seen only in remote corners of the mountains. Curiously, these were sometimes topped with aLeer más
Casa Berrea: Cortijos

Today was devoted to exploring cortijos either old and abandoned or old and renovated in the area around our house. Along the way we saw deer and birds of prey, as well as lizards and plenty of hugeLeer más
Casa Berrea to Loma de Mariangela

It was not only hard to leave the remote setting of Casa Berrea this morning, but we also had to say goodbye to Manuel, the owner, who has become a good friend in just five days. Before we evenLeer más
Loma de M-A: Abandoned village

Using Wikiloc’s “search by passing area” feature this morning, I stumbled upon a nearby track to an abandoned village. What a gem of a find! After following the GR 7’s red and white blazesLeer más
Loma de M-A: Río Borosa

Any amateur geologist would be wearing a smile a mile wide while walking up the path beside the Río Borosa. There are magnificent folds in the earth to be seen alongside rocks the size of housesLeer más
Loma de M-A to Siles

We made a snap decision this morning that my foot was good enough to start hiking with a backpack again. So we took a bus to Siles which is a marvelous little village on the northern edge of the parkLeer más
Siles: Errands

Siles deserves more time than what we are spending here. It seems like every time we turn a corner, we see something worth investigating, like the 14th century arch right outside the door of ourLeer más
GR 247: Siles to Puente Honda

It’s always wonderful when you actually start out on a long-planned walk and you find out in the first few minutes that the route is even better than you had hoped. Today’s walk on stage 1 of theLeer más
Puente Honda: mill, castle, & olive tree

You’d think we would be smart enough by now to recognize a bad idea when it is staring us in the face. But after not being able to catch even a glimpse of the old Muslim mill that is just up theLeer más
Puente Honda to La Hueta

The peak of Peñalta towered over our walk today, small and distant when we started out, and imposing and majestic as we climbed higher. The GR 247 was again in good condition: wide, well-maintainedLeer más
ViajeroWhat an extraordinary system of agriculture, very efficient