We're walking from Almeria on the Ruta del Argar to the Parque Natural de Cazorla where we will pick up the GR 247. A map of our route is here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1ERMUl_n9lASIh2n-8TJlr3A7HcK49SM&usp=sharing Read more
  • 83footprints
  • 1countries
  • 90days
  • 818photos
  • 62videos
  • 10.1kkilometers
  • 9.0kkilometers
  • Day 11

    Agua Amarga to Carboneras

    March 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    This 10 km stretch is really interesting from an industrial architecture point of view. Aqua Amarga was the terminus for a mining railroad from the interior of Armeria to the Mediterranean in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Iron ore was shipped out and supplies destined for the mine were shipped in from here. Mine supplies were landed by ship and lifted up to the railway on the headland using a static engine that pulled small wagons up a very steep ramp using cables. We saw the line of the railroad when we rode our bikes along the track when we were riding the Transandalus in 2009. But we never got to see the terminus, so we were very excited today to see that our current route followed the remains of the cable ramp up to the headland (and, yes, it is definitely steep) where we saw the remains of the terminus. It must have been an incredible operation.

    The fourth photo shows Ned, having shed his own pack, kindly coming back to carry my pack up the steepest part! I was afraid I was going to topple over backwards… and it looked like a long way down.
    Read more

  • Day 12

    Carboneras port

    March 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We are not making any forward progress on the trail for another four days while we wait for my appointment with a podiatrist here to get her opinion on a foot problem I’m having. Luckily, there is plenty to see here!

    Carboneras, population 8212, is a real working town, quite unlike the small coastal villages we’ve been walking through. We knew we were getting close yesterday when we spotted the tall chimney of the Central Térmica, and then suddenly came around the corner to see ships loading from overhead conveyors, trucks full of coal heading to the cement plant, and tankers full of olive oil leaving the oil plant. This area of the port shipped out 5.5 million tons of gypsum from the mines near Sorbas in 2022! Sandwiched between all this activity is the desalination plant. Quite an interesting 2 km for walkers.
    Read more

  • Day 13

    Carboneras: Watchtowers and Pirates

    March 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Walking the coastal route from Almería, we have almost always been able to see watchtowers on the horizon, one on a headland in front of us, and another on a headland behind. In fact, the Ruta del Argar coincides for 100 km with the Senda Pirata, named after the towers and castles used in defense against pirate attacks during the 16th and 17th centuries. [Batería de San Felipe (Los Escullos), Castle of San Ramón (Rodalquilar), Castle of San Pedro (Las Negras), Torreón de Mesa Roldán (Agua Amarga), and more.]

    One of the worst incursions began at a cove just to the north of Carboneras where we are today. On November 28, 1573, at dawn, a large number of pirates from Morocco under the command of Al Dugâlî landed here. The 700-800 attackers were spotted, but the governor of Cuevas de Almanzora thought the report was a false alarm. As a result, the pirates were able to kill all fifty of the men in the village and take the women and children to Africa for ransom.
    Read more

  • Day 14

    Carboneras: Groceries and more

    March 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    After several stages with nothing but one-room tiendas, it’s a bit overwhelming to shop in the big Mercadona in Carboneras. So many choices. Even the nearby Spar is bigger than usual. We’ve been happy to get our favorite Ines Rosales tortas for €1.79 a package - about 1/5 of the price we pay at home. And you can get freshly squeezed orange juice from a machine in the supermarket! There’s also a Bazar Chino for things like replacing a lost comb or getting rubber tips for the hiking poles we bought after British Air misplaced ours. No more clack, clack from the metal tips as we walk down the road!Read more

  • Day 15

    Carboneras: Around town

    March 24, 2023 in Spain

    One of the nicest things about staying in a residential area of town is getting to see little bits of local life that you might otherwise miss. Our first hint of this was hearing a series of chiming beeps on Tuesday morning. Often this signals that the bread van is in the neighborhood, or that the propane truck is here to exchange full canisters for empty ones. But to our surprise when we leaned out our window, this chime was from a water truck. Neighbors began to line up with their jugs and various other containers to fill up. Maybe we’re the only ones drinking tap water around here?

    More testaments to local life past and present are scattered around town: the moving statue of strong hands weaving esparto grass; the monuments to fishermen and to the crew that filmed scenes from Lawrence of Arabia in a cove just north of here; the substantial old building that is now the House of Music; and the graceful curves carved in the sand by the beach grooming machine.
    Read more

  • Day 16

    Carboneras: A visit to the podiatrist

    March 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was the big day, and it turned out well. The podiatrist was knowledgeable, helpful, and kind. She diagnosed two different problems: arthritis in my toe, and fibularis tendonitis in my ankle and leg. Both are already improving. She gave me exercises to do, suggested a bit more rest, and said I should see a physiotherapist if it continues. She also suggested some changes I can make to my orthotics. The cost of all this? Free. What a kind person!

    So we will stay here until Monday morning and then continue on the trail.

    It is 74 degrees F and sunny here today. Ned is headed to the beach!
    Read more

  • Day 17

    Carboneras: Wrapping up loose ends

    March 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Today was a day for wrapping up loose ends here in Carboneras. Taking care of my foot has, of course, thrown our planned itinerary out the window. I had made all of our reservations for Easter week, Semana Santa, long ago because it is a very busy time in Spain. Today I canceled all of our previous reservations and tried to make new ones. Of course, at this late date it is very difficult to find a place to stay in tiny villages that may have only one casa rural, but we put our heads together, studied every available option, and think we have a workable plan.

    Our clothes are washed, they’ve dried in the sunshine on the roof, last-minute groceries are bought, Ned’s hair is cut, we’ve mingled with the Sunday crowds and watched them play petanca, and we’re excited to finally be on the move again tomorrow!
    Read more

  • Day 18

    Carboneras to Sopalmo: The tunnel

    March 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    What a magnificent day! The trail was full of variety with the highlight being a 400 meter water pipe tunnel that took us through a hill rather than over it. I had worried a bit about the tunnel ahead of time, wondering if my mild claustrophobia would make it impossible for me to walk through. It turned out to be no problem. In fact, it was a pleasure because it was shady and cool inside. You can literally see the light at the end of the tunnel when you enter, and it’s about ten feet wide and ten feet high. No earthquake occurred while we were walking through, and we didn’t get buried in any rubble, so none of my fears came true!

    The rest of the track offers lovely views, lots of variety, and if you are as lucky as we were, sightings of wild ibex leaping from crag to crag. We went by the site of the infamous Algarrobico Hotel, under construction for more than 20 years at a cost of over €70 million, and now slated for demolition. It was built within the boundaries of the Natural Park, and has been the subject of years of opposing court decisions regarding its legality. It sits on the same pristine beach where a replica of the Jordanian village of Aqaba was built in 1962 to film scenes from Lawrence of Arabia.

    We are now resting happily (my foot is especially pleased) at Venta El Molino just outside Sopalmo. Their lunch menu del día was perfect for hungry walkers.

    Link to today’s Wikiloc track: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/carbonera…
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Sopalmo: Venta El Molino

    March 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Today was devoted to … eating! We spent an hour at breakfast, and another two hours at lunch. In between, we got to talk to members of the family that have owned this venta for 33 years. Everyone from the hard-working grandmother to the motorcycle-riding granddaughter helps out with the cooking and cleaning. They included us in all the activities of the day from the arrival of the bright purple school bus to the delivery of €400 worth of olive wood. Later, Ned found a sunny place to listen to music right outside our room while I concentrated on my foot exercises. Tomorrow we are walking to Mojacar.Read more

  • Day 20

    Sopalmo to Mojacar

    March 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    You know from our earlier posts that I am happy to make a trip all the way to Spain just to see a book that has historical information in it that can come to life in my mind as we are walking. So when I tell you the story of what happened this morning, you will know why today was a stellar day for us.

    We ate breakfast at the Venta El Molino with the family Fernández-Cervantes. They shared some more wonderful stories about their lives here in the province of Almería. When we told them how much it meant to us to be able to get to know them during our stay, Sonia (the motorcycling granddaughter) hopped up, left the room, and came back with a treasure that she put in our hands: a book that she herself wrote with Fran Martin, a professor of history. It is a gorgeous volume full of photos and drawings that lays out the story of her grandmother during the years of Spain’s Civil War. Her grandmother was a child in Malaga when the war began. She was part of the infamous exodus to Almería, walking the road between the two cities with hundreds of other refugees, all being strafed by German planes. She spent part of her childhood in the air raid tunnels under the streets of Almeria; moved next to Orán in Algeria, and then on to Barcelona and Valencia; and finally back to Almería. Sonia showed us photos on her phone of the interviews her now 94-year-old grandmother gave in Madrid recently. The book is such an incredible gift that tears come to my eyes as I describe it to you.

    And then to top it all off, we had our last day of walking in the protected area of the Cabo de Gata Parque Natural under blue skies and warm sunshine. Now we are in Mojácar, ready to explore the old part of the pueblo tomorrow.

    Link to today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/sopalmo-m…
    Read more