• Elaine and Ned
mar. – jun. 2023

Spain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla

We're walking from Almeria on the Ruta del Argar to the Parque Natural de Cazorla where we will pick up the GR 247. A map of our route is here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1ERMUl_n9lASIh2n-8TJlr3A7HcK49SM&usp=sharing Les mer
  • Vera to Cuevas del Almanzora

    4. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    What a wonderful day! It was like somebody laid out a mystery in front of us, and then slowly revealed the answer in tantalizing pieces with one grand denouement. We started our walk wondering how people were making a living in this dry, dry part of Spain. There were more orchards and crops along today’s backroad, and then once over the crest of the hill separating the city of Vera from Cuevas del Almanzora, the whole landscape of the huge area drained by the Rio Almanzora opened out in front of us. There were a few of the tall, tent-like invernaderos (greenhouses) that we’ve seen hundreds of near Almeria, but most of the landscape was covered with what looked like parallel lines of giant white caterpillars. And then we came to the exciting part: a tractor was laying out the white lines right before our very eyes. Here’s how it’s done. First, the crop is planted in long rows, protected by black plastic laid directly on the ground to keep the weeds down. Then hoops about 2 feet high are driven into the ground along the row. Finally a tractor with rolls of plastic and a special machine on the back lays plastic over the hoops, while at the same time dredging up dirt from the sides of the row to cover over the edges of the plastic so they can’t be caught by the wind. (Watch for the little wheels doing this job in the video.)

    Now we are resting up, so we can go out and watch one of the Semana Santa processions tonight.
    Les mer

  • Cuevas: Caves and a reservoir

    5. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    You can see from a glance at the photos that today’s walk was like stepping into a painting! The cliffs just north of town were bathed in an early morning light that perfectly silhouetted the more than 300 cave homes that dot its face. Some are from prehistoric times, and others are in use right now. A friendly lady who was outside in her bathrobe beating a carpet explained that the high-up caves that look inaccessible now actually had pathways running to them when they were in use. Erosion has changed the geography of the cliff to what we see today.

    Next comes a dam with a huge Indalo symbol painted on it. It holds back a reservoir that was established by a farmers’ cooperative in the 1980s in order to provide year-round access to water for agricultural purposes.

    This short mountain interlude is a big change from the vast agricultural territory both behind it and ahead of it.
    Les mer

  • Repositioning

    6. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Very surprisingly, there are no longer any hotels open in the city of Huércal-Overa (pop 20,000). There were four before Covid, but none of them are open now, so if we walked from Cuevas del Almanzora to Huércal-Overa, we would have no place to stay. Instead, we hopped on a bus in Cuevas del Almanzora this morning to reposition ourselves to a spot where we can get to Huércal Overa tomorrow morning. Many thanks to Laurie and Sabine for finding this option for us. It’s especially handy that the hotel had a vacancy during Easter week, and even more that it is the one place around here reachable by bus.

    In one of those unexpected coincidences of life, when Ned and the hotel receptionist got talking, it turned out that the receptionist’s family has lived for 40 years in the same city in New Jersey where Ned was born! The grandfather in the family came to the United States as a shepherd in the 1920s, and after five years gained US citizenship. Since then many members of the family have been involved in education in the U.S. His sister-in-law is an award-winning bilingual teacher in New Jersey. You can imagine our big smiles during that conversation!

    Ned’s walk today: to an abandoned mine nearby.
    Les mer

  • Huercal-Overa Via Verde

    7. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Stage 8 of the Ruta del Argar from Huercal Overa to Almendricos runs along the line of the abandoned Guadix-Almendricos railroad, now reopened as a via verde (greenway). We had really been looking forward to this stage - easy walking with much of interest to see in the surrounding agricultural land including the water museum at El Saltador, but we were stymied yet again by the absence of any place to stay at the end of the stage in Almendricos. However, we had a fine out-and-back walk starting from the old railway station and saw some things we hadn’t expected. It seems that Gustave Eiffel’s work inspired some of the iron bridges that still remain along the line, and he himself may have designed the loading dock at Águilas at the end of the line.Les mer

  • Lorca: New shoes

    8. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    It’s hard to be on a walking trip and not be able to walk comfortably. So we took advantage of our arrival in the big city of Lorca to check out some shoe options that might be able to help. For the last six years, Ned and I have been wearing nothing but Altra shoes with their foot- shaped toe box and zero drop from heel to toe. At home, we wear low-cut Torins, and for hiking, we wear high-top Lone Peaks. Ned wore his new pair on some training hikes at home and found they hit his ankle bone the wrong way. Luckily, he had a brand new pair of low-cut Lone Peaks in his closet, and they are what he is comfortably wearing now. I tried out my high tops at home and thought they were fine, so that is what I’ve been wearing. But now I’m feeling like they may be causing some of my ankle pain. No one in Lorca sells Altras, but I found a nice pair of low-cut Brooks trail runners and will try them out tomorrow. It feels strange to have the 8 mm drop, but I have some ideas on how to minimize it.Les mer

  • Lorca: Easter Sunday

    9. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Today was another of our very lucky encounters. As we were walking to the Colegiata San Patricio to watch the Easter Sunday procession, we saw a group of people dressed in purple robes assembling. Just as we raised our cameras to get a photo, a man in the group waved vigorously at us. We were afraid we had done something wrong, but no, he was inviting us to come inside what turned out to be the headquarters of one of the six brotherhoods here in Lorca. He told us all about their group, showed us banners and robes with their intricate gold thread embroidery, some of which take 4 years to complete, and a sculpture of the apostles carved in 1700. Then as we were getting ready to leave, he presented Ned with a pin of the confraternity! What a kind, generous man. TLes mer

  • Turre: Our poles are home!

    10. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    This morning we woke up to a very pleasant surprise. Our hiking poles that British Air failed to deliver have now completed their own month-long mini-vacation and are back on Shaw! Thanks to the Apple AirTag we put inside the mailing tube, we know they spent 5 days in Madrid and then 25 days back at SeaTac. No matter how many phone calls we made to British Air or how many lost baggage forms we filled out online, we were never able to convince a human being to return the poles to Shaw. So here’s a big thank you to Adam’s Shipping in Seattle who made the final connection! Our poles are now all set for their next adventure.

    More tomorrow on the turn our own adventures have taken. We are in the small village of Turre tonight, having completed the “Ruta del Argar desde Almería a Lorca.” Our apartment is right across from the Guardia Civil headquarters, so I bet this is a really safe area!
    Les mer

  • Bérchules: in the mountains

    11. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Lorca marked the end of the Ruta del Argar from Almería to Lorca, and we are now moving to Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas in the province of Jaén, the largest protected area in Spain, with hundreds of trails for the rest of this year’s walking. On the way, we have made a stop at a mountain casita outside the village of Bérchules to see the other book about the history of the Alpujarra that I have been waiting three years to read. Brenda, the owner of our casita is borrowing it from a friend tomorrow morning. I’m excited! In the meantime, Ned had a private showing of Brenda’s Black Baron Dreamster - one of only four in the world.Les mer

  • Bérchules: The book!

    12. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Three years ago, I saw some really intriguing information online: maps of the Alpujarra showing what the villages looked like during Muslim times a thousand years ago; drawings illustrating the techniques of traditional architecture, not just of houses, but also of threshing circles (eras), water-powered mills, and other structures; and photos of locations in the Alpujarra where you can still see these elements today. The source was given as a book, La Arquitectura Tradicional en La Alpujarra Alta, by Agustín Sánchez Hita. I searched all over the web for a copy I could buy but could not find one for sale. I emailed the author and the publisher, but neither had any copies left. I tried to borrow a copy from one of the libraries in Andalucía that had the book, but Spain discontinued their international interlibrary loans during Covid. Finally I wrote to the B & B owner who had posted the excerpts from the book on her blog. Brenda at La Paraje no longer had a copy, but thought she would be able to borrow one if I could make it to Bérchules. Indeed, Brenda went to a lot of trouble. There was no copy in her local library, so she went to the mayor to see if he had a copy. He didn’t, but a friend who had a copy lent it to Brenda this morning, and Brenda delivered it right to our casita. You can imagine what a happy day this was for me! I now have all the information I need for our next walking trip to the Alpujarra when I hope we will be able, with the author’s permission, to put this information on the GPX tracks we will make public on Wikiloc. Then every walker will be able to enjoy the knowledge Agustín Sánchez Hita has acquired over a lifetime - he’s now 84.
    (This book is related to the book we saw at the library in Almeria. Same author, but with a different organization: village by village, rather than by topic.)
    Les mer

  • Bérchules: the village

    13. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Ned walked to Bérchules today to get groceries and on the way had an interesting conversation with a man he met working in an orchard. José is a firefighter employed by the forestry agency in the area. In his spare time, he tends to his orchard where he has four kinds of apple trees and other fruit and nut trees. He worries about climate change - in this area they used to get up to three meters of snow in the winter; this year, there was none. We can certainly attest to the dry spring. In the 34 days we’ve been in Spain, there has not been a single day of rain.

    Berchules is a typical Alpujarra village. It is located at an altitude of about 1400 meters, with houses adapted to life on a hillside, arranged in terraces and facing the Mediterranean. The flat roofs are waterproofed with a layer of clay called launa and topped with conical chimneys. Tinaos (flat-roofed street coverings) provide storage space, sheltered entryways, and places for drying peppers.

    Wikiloc track today:
    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/el-paraje-berchu…
    Les mer

  • Bérchules to Cazorla: Over the pass

    14. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    In all the length of the Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada, from the vicinity of Granada on the west to the vicinity of Almeria on the east, a distance of over 100 km, there is only one N-S road crossing of the range, the pass at Puerto de le Ragua at an altitude of 2000 meters. So we were pretty excited to be going over it today. We had gotten close to it on a trip with our mountain bikes in 2018, only to be turned back by snow. Today, it was warm and sunny. We saw the high mountain peaks, a huge solar farm, and the castle at La Calahorra (with a photo for the Mozarabe folks) before arriving at the mountain town of Cazorla.

    Before we left, Brenda had a marvelous surprise for us. She had asked the mayor if he had any extra copies of a wonderful new book about the entire Alpujarra. He did, and she presented me with one! So now I have plenty of reading to keep me busy until our next trip to Spain. Thank you, Brenda!
    Les mer

  • Cazorla: Río Cerezuelo trail

    15. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    The Río Cerezuelo flows right through the middle of the town of Cazorla. In fact, when the Parroquia de Santa María was built during the Renaissance, the architect had to tunnel the river under the foundations of the church. All might have turned out well, but a devastating storm in 1694 caused a flood that could not be contained and construction was halted.

    Along the riverside trail above town there were willows and ducks and waterfalls galore. It’s Saturday, so lots of other walkers were out on the trail with us. Ned became the official photographer of couples wanting to commemorate their day. 😎

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/cazorla-to-falls…
    Les mer

  • Cazorla: up to the Ermita

    16. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Today’s hike had so much straight up and straight down that I had to revive myself with chocolate cookies before I had enough energy to eat lunch! You can’t really tell from the photos, but we climbed over 1000 feet in the first 1.5 miles (300 meters in 2.5 km)! Fantastic views and sunshine; castles and mountain goats; fig trees and black locust trees; and not a single slip or fall (thanks to all Ned’s help)!

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cazorla-e…
    We followed part of the GR 7 long- distance hiking route which goes from Tarifa, Spain to the tip of Greece.
    Les mer

  • Casa Berrea: Embalse de Aguascebas

    17. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    If you are looking for a heavenly place to stay in the mountains of Spain, Casa Rural Senda de la Berrea is the spot to pick! We are surrounded by rocky peaks, trails leave right from our door, and there is no one else for miles. Our walk straight out the door of the casa this afternoon took us to a magnificent waterfall, Cascada de Chorrogil, and then around the Embalse de Aguascebas which looks quite full. We could enjoy the falls and the turquoise water of the reservoir in complete peace because we didn’t see another person during the entire loop.

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/aguaceba…
    If, like me, you think a loop around a reservoir sounds like a nice flat walk, think again…
    Les mer

  • Casa Berrea: Navazalto Peak

    18. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    They say that if you are very quiet and still, you may see residents of the nearby colony of Griffon vultures when you reach the fire lookout at the top of Navazalto. We were not lucky enough to see them riding the thermals today, but the spectacular vistas made up for it. The view from the top is renowned as one of the most encompassing in Andalucía, and we spotted place after place that brought back memories.

    On the way down we met a very determined sheep who we thought at first was being friendly (see the video), but it turned out that she wanted us far away from her baby. No matter how wide a detour we made around them, as soon as we got back on the track, she chased us aggressively. Quite an unexpected adventure!

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/navazalto…
    Les mer

  • Casa Berrea: Tornajos

    19. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We stumbled upon a rare find today: wooden tornajos (livestock watering troughs) from many years ago, now seen only in remote corners of the mountains. Curiously, these were sometimes topped with a structure made from sticks in the form of trestles whose function was to prevent vultures from bathing in them to wash and groom their feathers, thus dirtying the water where later the sheep would come to drink!

    Today, tornajos (also called abrevaderos) are most often made of concrete (though old bathtubs sometimes substitute), and are often linked in long, narrow chains of seven or more troughs. No matter what they are made of, we think it is a real treat to come upon these signs of rural life.

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/tornajos-…
    Les mer

  • Casa Berrea: Cortijos

    20. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was devoted to exploring cortijos either old and abandoned or old and renovated in the area around our house. Along the way we saw deer and birds of prey, as well as lizards and plenty of huge pine cones for the next guests to use as fire starters. We are going to be very sorry to leave this peaceful spot tomorrow.

    A signboard near the trail listed the common characteristics of traditional cortijos for us to look for:
    - located next to a water source for people, livestock, and agriculture, like the Arroyo de Aguascebas Grande that we walked up today.
    - at a considerable altitude for summer grazing
    - nestled in a forest area for firewood and surrounded by fertile land.
    - shed-roofed structures at the rear of the farmhouse where cattle were collected at night
    - austere facades
    - square windows with wooden lintels
    - thick walls made with native stone and lime and mud mortar to isolate the interior from extreme temperatures
    - roofs covered with Arabic tiles

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cortijos-…
    Les mer

  • Casa Berrea to Loma de Mariangela

    21. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    It was not only hard to leave the remote setting of Casa Berrea this morning, but we also had to say goodbye to Manuel, the owner, who has become a good friend in just five days. Before we even arrived, he messaged us links to the many Wikiloc tracks in the area. He made the two-hour round trip from Cazorla three times to bring us fresh bread and local treats, and to make sure all was well with us. He told us the history of the area as he learned it from his days at the family cortijo, located just above Casa Berrea. We are so grateful to have met him!

    The highlight of today was passing the very spot where we cycled on our last day on the 2100 km Ruta Transandalus fourteen years ago.
    Les mer

  • Loma de M-A: Abandoned village

    22. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Using Wikiloc’s “search by passing area” feature this morning, I stumbled upon a nearby track to an abandoned village. What a gem of a find! After following the GR 7’s red and white blazes through the forest, we climbed a 13% grade up to the old village of Olvicos. Peeking into the ten or so houses there, we could imagine life here in the early 1900’s. There are two beautiful threshing circles (eras), so we’re guessing the subsistence lifestyle here included grains as well as olives. Steps leading up to the second story on the backs of all the houses caught our attention, as did the cross- hatching on some windows. One house still has its rather grand fireplace mantle, as well as interior stairs to the upper floor. Altogether, a fascinating spot to find just by chance. We’ll hang on to the memory of eating our mandarin oranges seated on the rim of the era, looking out at the mountain peaks.

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/abandoned…
    Les mer

  • Loma de M-A: Río Borosa

    23. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Any amateur geologist would be wearing a smile a mile wide while walking up the path beside the Río Borosa. There are magnificent folds in the earth to be seen alongside rocks the size of houses precariously balanced midstream and waterfalls thundering through delicate arches. No wonder this is the most popular trail in the park. We got an early start to avoid the crowds and had the pasarelas (wooden catwalks suspended over the water) all to ourselves, although it was cold enough in the canyon that I had to make my cycling sun sleeves do double duty as makeshift gloves. Quite a remarkable day!

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/rio-boros…
    Les mer

  • Loma de M-A to Siles

    24. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We made a snap decision this morning that my foot was good enough to start hiking with a backpack again. So we took a bus to Siles which is a marvelous little village on the northern edge of the park in the Sierra de Segura. Tomorrow we’ll buy 5 days worth of groceries (the next villages are tiny and have no stores), and Wednesday we’ll finally start the 18-day walk from here that has been planned for four years! We’re excited.Les mer

  • Siles: Errands

    25. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Siles deserves more time than what we are spending here. It seems like every time we turn a corner, we see something worth investigating, like the 14th century arch right outside the door of our apartment. But we stayed focused on our errands for the day: mailing home a package of boots and books; buying groceries for the next five days; and restocking items from the pharmacy.

    José María, who owns and loves our apartment, stopped by with a loaf of artisan bread from the bakery where he works. He and his seven brothers grew up here in Siles. He remembers the town having a population of 6000. Now it’s down to 2000 he says, because young people can find better paying jobs in the cities. In earlier days, when a subsistence village life was more common, the attics of the houses ( where our apartment is now) were used to store grain. We wondered if this was the case when we were exploring the abandoned houses at Olivico a few days ago, so it was interesting to get our suspicions confirmed.
    Les mer

  • GR 247: Siles to Puente Honda

    26. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    It’s always wonderful when you actually start out on a long-planned walk and you find out in the first few minutes that the route is even better than you had hoped. Today’s walk on stage 1 of the GR 247 (gran recorrido, or long-distance trail) had everything: mountain views, flowers, birdsong, frequent shade, and a nice smooth, wide track to top it off. All this in the remote NE corner of the park.

    We are now in the aldea of Puente Honda, population 5 (well, 7 with us here). There is WiFi in the house, but maybe not a fast enough upload speed to post photos (0.4 mbs). (Edited to add some low res photos- fuzzy, but they give the idea.)

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/gr-247-si…
    Les mer

  • Puente Honda: mill, castle, & olive tree

    27. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    You’d think we would be smart enough by now to recognize a bad idea when it is staring us in the face. But after not being able to catch even a glimpse of the old Muslim mill that is just up the track from here (it’s now surrounded by private property), we were determined to see the second item on our list for the day: the Muslim castle that defended Puente Honda. We found the trailhead complete with a PR (pequeño recorrido) marker on it pointing the way to the castle.
    Ned: It doesn’t look like this trail is very well maintained.
    Elaine: Well, it’s such a short distance to the castle that it probably doesn’t matter. We can just bushwhack.

    0.5 km later:
    Ned: This is pretty steep and slippery. Are you sure you can do this?
    Elaine: Umm, I think so. Besides, I could never go back down that part we just came up.

    O.5 km later:
    Ned: Can you stay right where you are without falling? I’m going to see if I can find a better way out of here.
    Elaine: I’m not moving.

    5 minutes later:
    Ned: I can see a tractor path through an olive grove ahead. If we can get down to it, we could use it to get back to the GR 247. But there’s a steep drop down to the path. I’ll help you.
    Elaine: Umm, okay.

    5 minutes later:
    Ned: Be careful not to touch the fence around the olive grove. I just found out the hard way that it’s electrified.
    Elaine: We never should have done this.

    One hour later, we were back safe and sound, with not a single fall or twisted ankle. But the next time we’re tempted to bushwhack around here, we’ll think twice.

    Our final adventure of the day was making our way through another olive grove to see a very old, very large olive tree that towers above all the others nearby. It gets special care from the villagers.

    Staying here has been quite a lesson in what it must have been like to live in a Muslim village in Andalucía during their 700 years of rule here. The hamlet itself is not directly on the river. That area is reserved for vegetable gardens and farm animals like the goats we saw this morning. The mill is in a canyon farther up the river, and the fuente and lavaderos are right on the river also. The houses are arranged around a central square farther up the hillside with a water spout and an icon in the center. A friendly resident enjoying the sun there told us he was born in the village but spent his working life in Barcelona. His wife leaned out of an upstairs window and told us how happy she was to see visitors who loved this special place.

    The front door of our house is right on this square, but we generally enter through the back door, four stories up, but opening directly onto the road that winds up steeply from the square! Our host, Loli, now lives in Siles, but inherited this wonderful building with its 39 stairs from her grandfather.

    Note: yesterday’s video and some photos have now loaded.

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    It looks like we got directly to the castle if you use the IGN mapa raster view, but we did not see a single bit of it up close. Way too steep. A really good location for defense!!!
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/puente-ho…
    Les mer

  • Puente Honda to La Hueta

    28. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    The peak of Peñalta towered over our walk today, small and distant when we started out, and imposing and majestic as we climbed higher. The GR 247 was again in good condition: wide, well-maintained (thank-goodness, after yesterday), and clearly signposted with x’s on the wrong forks at every junction.

    We then used a local trail down to the village of La Hueta where we met María José bringing us the keys to our house and also three days’ worth of groceries from Siles. Our climb would have been much harder had we been carrying all that extra weight plus the 20 liters of water she brought! (She says the water here is not good to drink )

    3 pm news flash: It just rained! Only a few widely spaced drops, and less than five minutes, but still quite an event, given that this is our first rain in 50 days here. The Sierra de Segura is the rainiest part of the park, and it sure needs more than a five minute sprinkle to replenish its more than 3000 springs.

    Video note: 829 feet, not meters

    Today’s Wikiloc track:
    https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/puente-ho…
    Les mer