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Spain 2023 - Almeria/CazorlaSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
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We're walking from Almeria on the Ruta del Argar to the Parque Natural de Cazorla where we will pick up the GR 247. A map of our route is here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1ERMUl_n9lASIh2n-8TJlr3A7HcK49SM&usp=sharing Läs mer
  • 83fotavtryck
  • 1länder
  • 90dagar
  • 818foton
  • 62videoklipp
  • 10,1kkilometer
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Datum stigande
  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    2
    Dag 21

    Mojácar: Around town

    30 mars 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Mojácar pueblo (as opposed to Mojácar Playa, the tourist-dominated beach strip 3 km below) is well-worth taking a day to explore. Its labyrinthine maze of streets dates from Muslim times. Around every corner you see a flower-bedecked Indalo, the symbol of Mojácar, and recently, of all Almeria. The original drawing of a man with outstretched arms holding a rainbow was found in Paleolithic caves nearby. There is also a fine little museum here. A school group headed to it passed under our windows this morning, so we waited until afternoon to see the house lovingly restored by a Russian couple who moved here. They filled us in on details of the town’s history. For example, in Muslim times the town would have looked very different because whitewash was not used then.

    Back home, it was time for washing and mending clothes. I’m sure glad I brought along a rectangle of self- stick nylon tenacious tape since I have now managed to twice rip the fabric on the knees of my only pair of pants!    Läs mer

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  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    Dag 22

    Mojácar to Garrucha

    31 mars 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Today was our last day of walking along the coast. From here, we will be turning inland and heading towards the Sierra de Cazorla.

    The route from Mojacár Pueblo down towards the sea was a peaceful walk with the scent of orange blossoms to accompany us. But what a shock to reach the busy beach stretch between Mojácar and Garrucha! The traffic noise was deafening after our quiet days within the park boundaries. Luckily, Garrucha had two interesting events going on to distract us: it was market day with all the sights and sounds that entails; and four tugboats were escorting a big ship out of the harbor. Ned looked up the details using the app Marine Traffic. It’s the Astra Perseus, a bulk carrier 643 feet long, headed to Gibraltar.Läs mer

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  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    4
    Dag 23

    Garrucha: Swimming!

    1 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    No, not us. But the consistently 70 + degree F weather we’ve had since we arrived convinced someone to enjoy the water today.

    Garrucha and Mojácar are only about 7 km apart and have similar populations of about 6000 people, but you could hardly find two towns that physically look more different on a map. Mojácar has an intricate street plan typical of towns established during the years of Muslim rule, where nothing meets at right angles. In Garrucha, on the other hand, almost every street looks like it was drawn by a ruler. Garrucha actually was a Muslim village at one time, but that village was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1518. It was then rebuilt, flourishing first as a fishing village, and later becoming the port for the silver and iron mines located just inland from here. Like Agua Amarga, it had a 700 meter aerial cable that was used to transport the iron ore to ships. The cable and its support towers are all gone now, but the port is still active. We saw ships anchored just offshore waiting to take the place of the cargo ship that we watched being escorted out of the harbor yesterday.

    Tomorrow: walking to Vera.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    Dag 24

    Garrucha to Vera

    2 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Ever since we knew there was a city named Vera in Spain, we’ve wanted to visit it. So today’s walk was filled with thoughts of our wonderful oldest daughter - named Vera! - her aunt, Vera Inga, who taught me how to be a teacher - and all the other Veras ( and Viras) who enrich our lives!

    Stage 6 of the Ruta del Argar takes a literal and a metaphorical turn after Garrucha. Rather than continuing up the coast, it turns inland and heads through orchards of oranges, lemons, and olives alternating with fields of irrigated crops. We saw extensive evidence of the pipes carrying the water and wondered if some of it was coming from the desalination plant we passed in Carboneras.

    We arrived in Vera just in time to see the procession forming for Palm Sunday. It would have been great to watch, but hunger took precedence, and we headed to the hotel tapas bar instead. The enthusiastic Sunday crowd there was a show of its own.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    1
    Dag 25

    Vera: Bells

    3 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    We thought we were being smart this morning by getting to the main plaza just before 10 o’clock so we would have a chance to look around and then do a short video as the church bells rang the hour. As you will see, Ned started the video a few seconds before 10, panning across the facade of the fortress church that helped defend Vera against pirate attacks, and then he waited … and waited … for the bells to ring. Just after he finally gave up and turned the video off, of course, the bells began to ring. We were impressed with the sturdiness of the church with its thick walls and defensive towers at all four corners. All the windows are high, the door is stout, and I’d love to see the key that fits in that lock.

    Nearby we stumbled across a traveling exhibition about the mining history of this area, including one of the hoppers that carried ore along the aerial tramway to Garrucha - sort of like a chair on a ski lift. Mining profits paid for many of the fine houses near the main plaza here.

    Our final stop was at the water museum that contains a restored lavadero where thirty women at a time could have their own basin for washing clothes. It’s the biggest lavadero we’ve seen in Andalucía. It was fed by a fountain that has carried water from a spring since Muslim times more than 1000 years ago.

    Tomorrow, we are walking to Cuevas de Almanzora.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    Dag 26

    Vera to Cuevas del Almanzora

    4 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    What a wonderful day! It was like somebody laid out a mystery in front of us, and then slowly revealed the answer in tantalizing pieces with one grand denouement. We started our walk wondering how people were making a living in this dry, dry part of Spain. There were more orchards and crops along today’s backroad, and then once over the crest of the hill separating the city of Vera from Cuevas del Almanzora, the whole landscape of the huge area drained by the Rio Almanzora opened out in front of us. There were a few of the tall, tent-like invernaderos (greenhouses) that we’ve seen hundreds of near Almeria, but most of the landscape was covered with what looked like parallel lines of giant white caterpillars. And then we came to the exciting part: a tractor was laying out the white lines right before our very eyes. Here’s how it’s done. First, the crop is planted in long rows, protected by black plastic laid directly on the ground to keep the weeds down. Then hoops about 2 feet high are driven into the ground along the row. Finally a tractor with rolls of plastic and a special machine on the back lays plastic over the hoops, while at the same time dredging up dirt from the sides of the row to cover over the edges of the plastic so they can’t be caught by the wind. (Watch for the little wheels doing this job in the video.)

    Now we are resting up, so we can go out and watch one of the Semana Santa processions tonight.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    Dag 27

    Cuevas: Caves and a reservoir

    5 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    You can see from a glance at the photos that today’s walk was like stepping into a painting! The cliffs just north of town were bathed in an early morning light that perfectly silhouetted the more than 300 cave homes that dot its face. Some are from prehistoric times, and others are in use right now. A friendly lady who was outside in her bathrobe beating a carpet explained that the high-up caves that look inaccessible now actually had pathways running to them when they were in use. Erosion has changed the geography of the cliff to what we see today.

    Next comes a dam with a huge Indalo symbol painted on it. It holds back a reservoir that was established by a farmers’ cooperative in the 1980s in order to provide year-round access to water for agricultural purposes.

    This short mountain interlude is a big change from the vast agricultural territory both behind it and ahead of it.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    2
    Dag 28

    Repositioning

    6 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Very surprisingly, there are no longer any hotels open in the city of Huércal-Overa (pop 20,000). There were four before Covid, but none of them are open now, so if we walked from Cuevas del Almanzora to Huércal-Overa, we would have no place to stay. Instead, we hopped on a bus in Cuevas del Almanzora this morning to reposition ourselves to a spot where we can get to Huércal Overa tomorrow morning. Many thanks to Laurie and Sabine for finding this option for us. It’s especially handy that the hotel had a vacancy during Easter week, and even more that it is the one place around here reachable by bus.

    In one of those unexpected coincidences of life, when Ned and the hotel receptionist got talking, it turned out that the receptionist’s family has lived for 40 years in the same city in New Jersey where Ned was born! The grandfather in the family came to the United States as a shepherd in the 1920s, and after five years gained US citizenship. Since then many members of the family have been involved in education in the U.S. His sister-in-law is an award-winning bilingual teacher in New Jersey. You can imagine our big smiles during that conversation!

    Ned’s walk today: to an abandoned mine nearby.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    111
    Dag 29

    Huercal-Overa Via Verde

    7 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Stage 8 of the Ruta del Argar from Huercal Overa to Almendricos runs along the line of the abandoned Guadix-Almendricos railroad, now reopened as a via verde (greenway). We had really been looking forward to this stage - easy walking with much of interest to see in the surrounding agricultural land including the water museum at El Saltador, but we were stymied yet again by the absence of any place to stay at the end of the stage in Almendricos. However, we had a fine out-and-back walk starting from the old railway station and saw some things we hadn’t expected. It seems that Gustave Eiffel’s work inspired some of the iron bridges that still remain along the line, and he himself may have designed the loading dock at Águilas at the end of the line.Läs mer

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  • ResenärSpain 2023 - Almeria/Cazorla
    Dag 30

    Lorca: New shoes

    8 april 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    It’s hard to be on a walking trip and not be able to walk comfortably. So we took advantage of our arrival in the big city of Lorca to check out some shoe options that might be able to help. For the last six years, Ned and I have been wearing nothing but Altra shoes with their foot- shaped toe box and zero drop from heel to toe. At home, we wear low-cut Torins, and for hiking, we wear high-top Lone Peaks. Ned wore his new pair on some training hikes at home and found they hit his ankle bone the wrong way. Luckily, he had a brand new pair of low-cut Lone Peaks in his closet, and they are what he is comfortably wearing now. I tried out my high tops at home and thought they were fine, so that is what I’ve been wearing. But now I’m feeling like they may be causing some of my ankle pain. No one in Lorca sells Altras, but I found a nice pair of low-cut Brooks trail runners and will try them out tomorrow. It feels strange to have the 8 mm drop, but I have some ideas on how to minimize it.Läs mer

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