The Camel Festival

One big event on the Saudi calendar is the Yearly Camel Festival It is held for two months not far north of Riyad. How lucky am I to be in the region at this point in time, so of course I have to go there and have a look. When approaching, driving through empty landscape, following the signs indicating "King Abdulaziz Camel Festival “, a broad road flattened into the sand turns off the highway. In the distance you can see the entrance arch and huge festival tents erected. Getting closer to the location I pass stalls of all descriptions: camel accessories, carpet makers, fruit and groceries, laundries... well, anything one needs for an extended stay.
My German friends had arrived here two days prior. To meet them I had to drive past the "business district" and follow the sand route lined by a huge tent city and camel enclosures, past camel herds on the road, lively gatherings. An incredibly exotic scenery opens up to me. Whenever I have to stop the car for a camel or what else, I am greeted by people, offered tea into the car, invited to their tents and inevitably photographed.
Steffen had contacted me prior to me getting there and asked me to come to a certain location, doing really secretive. So eventually in this chaos I find him with two of his larger girls, grinning from ear to ear. Finally, he told me the reason for his joy: yesterday he had participated at a camel wrestling competition: he had to enter a rink in which 3 one-year old camels were circling. The challenge to grab one of the animals, who of course run away from you, and to wrestle it to the ground. And that he did: he succeeded to throw over a camel and as price, he won the animal. That’s how the Boeger family became the proud owners of a camel.
Now he was confronted with another challenge: Steffen now intended to lead their price to their truck, for the kids to play with or walk it. For this he needed me and my van, to tie the camel onto the bumper and lead it to their camp. But apparently this you cannot do; as camels are serious herd animals, they will not follow some strange car without putting up a fight. So we had to find another solution to transport the animal to our camping spot on the festival grounds.
Talking to the locals is always a good idea, particularly in matters of camel. They quickly arranged with some truck driver to pick up the camel and transport it to the camel enclosure closest to our camp. To load it they unceremoniously tie up the camel, strap a belt around its midriff, lift it up with a Hiab crane onto to back of a truck and deliver it to their owners. In the discussions with the locals they learn that the kids cannot play with the animal, and as taking the dromedary with them is impossible as well, they have to get rid of it ASAP. But the word spreads quickly, everybody knows of Steffen’s win as this was broadcast on National TV and soon enough the camel was sold for a (hopefully) good price. Steffen would have loved to glow a little longer with the glory of being a camel owner, but he saw reason.
The next day one of the Saudis took me to the camel beauty competition. I was provided with a VIP pass and guided into the VIP lounge, the only woman again in between all the men. After being served a sumptuous breakfast I watched the most beautiful camels of Saudi stroll past the window. But what constitutes a beautiful camel?
Signs of beauty are a big head, a big hump and a long lip. I am sure there were some more criteria, but those I forgot.
After the camel competition I am led to the camel wrestling competition and I can judge with my own eyes the difficulty of Steffen's win. I am sitting opposite a large TV screen broadcasting the event, looking around I suddenly realise the camera zooming in, oh no, that's me, zooming in closer and closer, suddenly getting stuck on me, the men around me hooping and cajoling, I smile into the camera, wave my hand... I mean, what does one do in a situation like this??!! I don't know what's happening, until my Saudi friend tells me, that I have just won the newest Apple Iphone. This came in quite handy, as my old phone is on the way out. Of course this event has to be broadcast as well, I express my gratitude for this win to the king and he Sheikh who has donated my IPhone and sponsored this event.
Later, when walking through the village with the family, we are all congratulated for our wins and invited for dinners and tea.
Ahh! This camel festival. Definitely one highlight of so many of my time in Saudi. So exotic, so exciting, so overwhelming... the atmosphere at the auctions, the smells, the sounds. Impressions of “Arabic Nights”! For hours I strolled across the festival, taking in these impressions. Drinking a cup of coffee or tea here and there, I felt like glimpsing into another world. Absolutely unforgettable.Read more