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Australia to Europe
  • ElisaLola Rexelby
apr 2019 – apr 2023

Australia to Europe

29th of April 2019 until 1st April 2013 Leggi altro
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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    1
    111

    Leaving towards Bandar Abbas

    12 gennaio 2020, The Gulf ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Once moving south, the weather became warmer and the landscape greener. How pleasant everything looks, once it has the green tinge. It was so beautiful hadn’t I seen green for so many months!
    Finally, I reached the Persian Gulf. The last few days of my visa I decided to spend on Qeshm, an island in the Gulf. Weather conditions like in Port Hedland, that means a pleasant warmth this time of the year, sweet after these last cold months.
    On Qeshm I have chosen one of the many wild camping spots on my overlander app and I could not believe to meet Boris and Leah from Switzerland here who I happened to meet on and off and always unplanned since Uzbekistan, and a German couple Louis and his girlfriend who I had met in Shiraz. So much for coincidence!
    It was nice to spend 3 days with them and some Iranians here on the beach, talking, eating and taking walks together until it was time for me to leave to Bandar Abbas to catch the ferry to the Emirates.
    In the night before leaving I started to rain and the roads on Qeshm were close to unpassable for my car but I made it off the island. Once arrived in Bandar Abbas the traffic came to a near halt due to flooding of the roads.
    Refuelling diesel in Iran can be quite difficult, do you need a diesel card, which you cannot get as a tourist. So you rely on
    a) diesel being available at a petrol station, which is not always the case. Particularly in areas close to borders to other countries diesel is scarce as they want to avoid the cheap Iranian diesel being smuggled out of the country.
    b) either the petrol station having a fuel card or if they don’t have one, a truck driver giving you some of his allocation
    Now Bandar Abbas being close to the border, all the petrol stations I had driven past had long queues of trucks awaiting diesel delivery. Finally in Bandar Abbas I drove into a petrol station that apparently had both: a diesel card and diesel. As I was driving on my last drop, I was over the moon.
    He fills my tank, and at about 40l it occurs to me that this does not smell like diesel, so I ask him. And shock horror, there was a misunderstanding and instead of diesel he had filled in Petrol. Bugger!! One and a half hours later I had my tank emptied and refilled with diesel, and was ready to leave!
    The next morning the ferry service to UAE was cancelled due to bad weather, and because my visa was to expire on that day I had to get an extension. Had I known, I could have spent a few more days relaxing on Qeshm.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    3121Flamingos on the beach in Bandar Abbas

    Qeshm, Bandar Abbas

    12 gennaio 2020, Iran ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    2
    22Unearthing Lola

    Desert Adventure

    29 gennaio 2020, Emirati Arabi Uniti ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Arman and I took the car out in the desert, the big red dune. Driving through deep loose sand is not Lola's forte, but she is doing remarkably well. Even though we were walking to evaluate the route never knowing the shape of the dunes and the surface, but regardless we got stuck a few times and had to undig her. Good I invested in my maxtraxx, money well spent!
    We had a lot of fun, but boy! I was quite exhausted that evening!    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    I thought there was only sand. ..
    Necropolis from 5000bcFinally somebody else playing with Rexelby

    And we made it into Oman

    30 gennaio 2020, Oman ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After I arrived in The Emirates I was informed I could neither enter Oman nor Saudi Arabia with my right hand drive (RHD) vehicle. Very disappointing!! With Saudi no one is 100 % sure, but Oman was just a no go.
    This morning Arman and I decided we'll give it a try and drive towards the Oman border.
    Exit from UAE was no problem at all. First vehicle check in Oman was a very quick open the door and have a peek affair. At the next stop, where I needed the carnet du passage stamped, the officer wanted to send me to the office without further ado, however his colleague mentioned the RHD to him. So unfortunately he had to deal with it. He accompanied me to the appropriate office building. We had a nice little chat where I acted surprised at the mentioning of the RHD not being permitted. On the long side within the building there was a reflective glass wall, separating the customers from the officers. Only holes were cut through the glass at each desk to pass through the documents. And beside each window a sign saying "Sleeping not allowed".
    So my officer disappeared behind the wall, indicating I should wait. About 5 mins later he called me to the window, and tells me, the dog papers were ok, however the carnet.... RHD... there was another officer, seemed to be his superior going on the stats appliquet to his lapel, indicated to me to come closer. As I was already standing at the window I had to stick my head through the cut out to follow his invitation and I just started my tirade, I had come so far from Australis and wanted to see his beautiful country, when he whispered to me I should only wait for 10 mins and he gets the stamp for me. He said I had so beautiful eyes and how old was I? What? 65? Such a beautiful face and lovely smile!!!
    Good I had remembered to take my glasses off: in these countries my best asset are my green eyes!
    So I waited for my ten minutes, men in their white tunics and head coverings crowding in with me, (oh, I so wished for my camera, but taking photos forbidden) then I was sent away to buy a car insurance with the promise, when I get back, I will get my stamp.
    And here we are, in Oman. Now I am quite confident, I will get into Saudi Arabia as well! A little bit of carefully applied eye makeup, 'decent clothing' and a happy smile will open the gates to the SA kingdom for me    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    11

    In Oman with Arman

    4 febbraio 2020, Arabian Sea ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Traveling in Oman was quite a surprise for me, nit knowing what to expect but surely Sand only. But shortly after being in the country the scenery changed to rocky mountain with some trees and fresh greenery. Several times on these mountain roads we traversed small rivers spilling over the road. People were having picnics and playing in the water.
    I could fully enjoy the scenery was it the first time for the last 35 000km I was having the luxury of sitting on the passenger seat, with Arman driving.
    The lives in the towns changed, there were no women to be seen on the streets. We visited a department store to do some purchases: there were lots of men, doing the groceries and buying even women’s clothes. The only women I could see apart from me was working at the checkout.
    Some women doing groceries or were buying fast food stopped their cars in front of the shops, honked, waited for an attendant to appear, I assume they gave them their order which he would pick, they paid and drove off again.
    But not only women ordered their stuff that way, many Omanis just honk in front of shops and do their business like that.
    Driving through the country there were huge mansions everywhere, one bigger than the other. We wondered, where all the Pakistanis and Indian live as we did not see any small housing. Do they live behind their shops? If working as domestics they will live within the compound of their employers, I guess.
    We drove to Muscat, picked up my Iranian friend Hojat and drove together to the Sugar Dunes, dunes, as the name implies, white as sugar. Very impressive, the white sand against the blue sea. It was a bit tight in my little van, but as we Germans say, where there is a want there is a way. At the dunes we met another German overlander couple who had a spare tent which they offered to Hojat, so he had a home for the two nights we spent there.
    I would have loved to stay a bit longer but we needed to get back to Dubai for Arman to catch his flight back.
    Trouble again on the border into UAE: after all the border checks I still had to see a veterinarian to check on the dog, so we were guided to the "Office of Camel Identifiers" to get the paperwork sorted. But apparently, we did not have an import certificate which costs AU$400 and an export ??? certificate which would have cost another $125. We showed him all the paperwork we had, then there were lots of discussions. This guy was really sleezy, I could not stand him, I was close to losing my cool. So I left it all to Arman. He’s a bit better the me in these situations. Lots of discussions, to get rid of us he wanted to persuade us to return to the border entry where we came into Oman, which was a few hundred kms away. But we would not budge. At the end he brought us to some other official who kind of waved the hand at us indicating we could go.
    Arman and I we were quite sure the “veterinarian” just wanted some bakshish. I later heard of some Germans who had the same problem, they tried a few times without success and were considering flying the dog over from Muscat to Dubai. Don’t know what became of them. So, I was lucky again!!
    And now Arman is gone again. I miss him terribly. The time was too short! Over the days we had become a good team, we learned again how each of us ticks, the getting up and go in the morning became really smooth, once he knew what goes where and what needs to be done to get back on the road. Rex appreciated him being with us as well, did Arman take him for near daily jogs; he initially accompanied him really hesitantly but at the end Rexby came without a leash. And I did for once not need to take him for a walk. Hurray! I just could pull out a chair and read! And Rex gave up his allocated seat without a lot of fuss!!! That really surprised me was he normally fiercely defending his throne against passengers. And that I appreciate Arman anyway goes without saying!
    But now it was time to get ready to figure out how to move from there. Do I return to Iran and continue from there or do I try to get into Saudi Arabia even though I was informed by the Saudi Customs Authority and the Saudi Automobil Club that Right Hand drive is forbidden to drive on Saudi roads. And once in Saudi, how will I continue from there with Egypt, Israel, Jordan being a cal du sac. Lets wait and see. Inshallah, a way will show itself upon time.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe

    Hamdullillah!!!

    15 febbraio 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The Last few days I spent trying to find out of I can enter the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, KSA, with my Right Hand Drive vehicle and if I can, how do I continue from there. The more I found out, the less likely was this trip to happen.
    Automobil club and other KSA governmental institutions responded with a clear "no, not allowed under any circumstances". Forums gave me the same response: nobody had made it.
    How to continue? Shipping companies from Cairo or Haifa to Greece, Italy or Turkey 5-6 day of sea journey, don't take any dogs. Does the ferry from Kuwait to Iran only 5-6hours, transport cars as well. .. no idea, no response as yet.
    Then I had the glorious idea, should I get into KSA I'll go on a round trip, then back through the UAE. Yeah!!!
    So the next morning I packed up and traveled towards the border.
    And believe it or not.... I made it! Hamdullah! And after all, the car did not seem to be such a problem, there were only a few hushed discussions, the dog was the bigger issue, did I not have be any of the required documents for him. The med cert was not issued by the appropriate office, I did not have a permission of the KSA department for I don't know, but, Hamdullah again, the UAE officer had already completed an application for me. And so, after a lot of smiles, and many more hamdullahs, you are traveling alone? Hamdullah! All the way from australia? Hamdullah! With a dog? Hamdullah! i was waved through all the checkpoints and arrived in KSA.
    But now my only hope is, that, Inshallah! I won't get sent back with my forbidden RHD.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    Gone with the wind1st overnighter in Saudi

    Photo Session

    17 febbraio 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    16/2/20
    Driving on the desert highway towards Riyadh there are camels or better dromedary everywhere. Here they come in different colours, from white to nearly black. For a camel lover like me this is really exciting. To keep the camels off the highway there are fences erected on either side only interrupted by some gates here and there.
    So many camels, that the the traffic is bound to be stopped at some time to drive the camels home, as it happened today.
    Unfortunately I was quite a way back in the queue and as I did not want to miss out on all the action I drove on the right side past the lined up trucks until I had front row.
    The cars were stopped on both directions of the 4 laned highway and the Bedouins were driving the camels across by foot and with utes. The first Bedouin saw me and straight away made photos of myself and the dog. A Ute was coming across the middle stripe of the h’way wanting to see what was going on and as soon as he saw me, or the dog, or me and the dog, his jaw dropped (no exaggeration) and his eyes became as big as saucers (some exaggeration to get the point across) and he started to photo away. By now the truck drivers became curious as well, wanted to know what all the commotion was about and soon they came from all directions.
    By now the camels were well and truly across the road but the traffic did not start moving until everybody was satisfied with the photos they had taken. Apart from me. I was too amused to think of making a photo of my photo takers.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe

    Saudi Arabia first Impressions

    18 febbraio 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    First impressions of Saudi Arabia

    During my first 2 days travelling through the desert and desert towns from the UAE border to Riyadh I did not see a single woman. Not on the roads, not in shops or restaurants. The ones I visited did not have any family rooms, which are reserved for families or women only, and still no women.

    Once in Riyadh I was right away welcomed by 3 working women, recognisable on their safety vests in full hijab. One preconception I had to unlearn already in Iran was that full Hijab does not equal shy. Very forthcoming women, very happy to hear where I am from and that I as a woman I came from so far all by myself. They mentioned with great joy, that now they are permitted to drive: “Now we can do it!!!”

    Later on I met two highschool girls, one in full hijab, the other wearing an abaya, the black overcoat, only but no head covering. When asked I was told that since a few months ago not only tourist but as well Arabian women are allowed to wear western clothing and move in public without head covering. She would only wear the Abaya as she is used to it and she feels more comfortable wearing it.
    Today I saw two SA women in western clothing and open hair.
    Saudi Arabia appears to be moving forward with big steps towards a more liberal society.

    I always pictured SA to be a very rich country. My first impressions contradict this assumption. On the road to Riyadh a lot of petrol stations and the shops around them were deserted and partially overblown by sand, the shops at the outskirts of the townships either deserted or fallen to neglect. Rubbish is collecting everywhere, very visibly stuck at the camel fencing that has been erected all along the highway, all in all giving a very neglected impression. I guess this is particularly noticeable after having been in UAE and Oman, where everything is well maintained, clean and extremely prosperous.
    Is this just avery poor region?

    I had to visit the dentist today. Chipped tooth.
    At the practice all the assistants were male: at the reception as well as in the treating rooms. My dentist was a woman, I saw several other female dentists all assisted by males. I would have loved to be treated by one of the male doctors dressed in the sheik garb. Very exotic. But no such luck! I forgot to ask if females can be treated by men?

    Walking my cat hating dog in this city is near impossible. This is a cat empire! Cats everywhere: sleeping curled up on lawns, park benches, behind walls, in bushes, on trees, under cars, in gutters, alley ways! Everywhere!!! My dog is totally frantic, pulling on the leash like a maniac! Get me out of here!

    When standing on the edge of the street waiting to cross the cars stop! Just so! No pedestrian crossing, no traffic light, they just stop! No idea why! I am baffled! This is amazing!
    21.2.20 I have to make am amendment to that last observation: that must have been a coincidental that the cars stopped just so. This wasn't repeated.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    1
    1Visit in a Bedouin tent.

    Edge of the world

    19 febbraio 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Leaving Riyadh I visited the "Edge of the World" an incredible mountain plateau from which, when standing on top you can look as far as the eye can see. Truly impressive!

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe

    A Dream Come True

    20 febbraio 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    My big dream before commencing my trip into Saudi Arabia was to experience some family life. One hears or reads so much about this country and particularly the hidden life of the Saudi Woman however how much of it compares to reality?
    So often during my trip I have experienced that what we learn from the media about a country is more about the politics and the fall out to the normal people than real life experiences. At the end we don’t really know much about the day to day lives people are living. Let’s take Iran: peoples’ perception of this country is one of mullahs, terrorists, fully veiled and locked away women, however the society I experienced showed me an incredible friendly, hospitable, very open minded, well educated and cultured people.
    Now I am so curious to experience the life in the KSA, particularly the life of women.
    This opportunity presents itself on my way to the historical town of Shaqra. After being overtaken and me overtaking a family car a few times, waving at each other, they hail me down in Shaqra and invite me to their home.
    And what a lovely family it was: parents with 3 of their 6 “children”, daughter and son at university and the other daughter with 14or 15 still at school. Very generously they invited me including Rex into their home, offering some refreshments and then taking me to a sightseeing trip to the historical town of Ushaiqer and then later to Shaqra, before turning back home where the rest of the family has arrived to spend the weekend together.
    This is the weekend home of the extended family, and this weekend most of them are coming here from Riyadh. I am not quite sure how many people they were, I would guess around 30-40? And nearly everybody spoke English exceptionally well, even the elderly or the young children. So I was able to find out a lot about their lives and culture.
    This was a for our perception, but I don’t know if of Saudi as well, very closely knit family. The women of this family I talked to were university educated, working as dentist, lawyer or still studying, far from the suppressed women we westerners expect.
    Their clothing in public ranged from full Hijab to open hair, so there seemed to be no pressure of the family what to wear. What to wear appeared to be every woman’s decision depending on preference or religious interpretation and probably as well comfort level in the public eye.
    Everybody, women or men alike seemed to be very happy and in agreeance with the developments and social changes initiated by the crown prince since the beginning of his reign a few years ago. The women don’t need to wear hijab, they don’t need the permission of the head of the family to move in society, they are permitted to drive, cinemas have opened. But the society overall will not be able to change in their attitudes to women over night, particularly in the countryside and in some of the more conservative cities. Women will need to patiently wait and continue to fight for their full rights and acceptance in the society.
    I am very grateful that I had the opportunity to experience family life the Saudi way. Of course this is only one facete, but I am sure I will have some more opportunities to experience Saudi day to day life.
    The next day, after saying good bye to my lovely family I went again into Shakra to have a look at the sights during day light, when a man asked after my wellbeing and took me on a tour through the historical part of Shakra. He turned out to be the Mayor of the town.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    1

    Bisha

    26 febbraio 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    And on we travel, through a landscape created by fairytales, sculptured mountains, smooth granite cones, however not very photogenic due to a passing sandstorm.
    A bit travel weary I looked for and found a spot well off the road where I could rest for a few days. Here I happened to met up with Jasmin, a German woman, who like me travels by herself with a dog. How’s that for a coincidence? We talked online before to discuss requirements to bring the dogs over the border and now she happened to pass along close by.
    We got along well, the dogs got along well, so we decided to continue our journey together.
    Of course both of us had car trouble, Jasmin of the electrical kind and Lola’s fuel tank made itself known again and started to dribble. So in the next bigger town we looked for some workshops to attend to our repairs. We found them quite quickly but making ourselves understood is always a different matter, but soon we were helped by the towns English teacher. My problem was quickly thought to be found, the screw on the diesel tank was loose (not tightened probably when the pertrol had to be emptied out of my diesel tank in Iran), Jasmin’s problems took some more doing. In the mean time lots of pictures of us women with dogs were taken by lots of men wearing their white thawb (tunic) and their white or red and white head dresses.
    Once the cars were repaired Mofarreh, our English speading friend, invited us to his home.
    This home is situated in a larger compound, that had several smaller houses on it, each house for a wife. Our friend had 2 wives, one of whom he had just recently divorced, and who did not live here any longer; and then there lived as well the 3 of 4 wives of his father who had passed away several years back. Each of the wives had several children between 38 and 7 years old; I forgot how many siblings Moffareh had, it was quite an impressive number. Not all lived here any longer as the married ones have moved out.
    Unfortunately none of the women spoke English, so communication was rather difficult. Even made more difficult as the mothers could not read either, so google translate always had to wait until Sarah, Moffareh’s wife was in the room. But once we arrived Sarah commenced the cooking. Whilst she prepared the entre we were invited to have shower and some tea. Then at about 8pm the entre was served which consisted of the entrails of the lamb. Then we were lucky, or I at least was, Jasmin as a vegetarian did not consider herself that lucky to watch Sarah preparing the lamb. She put the whole the lamb less its entrails in one piece into a huge pot together with lots of spices and all we had to do now was to wait.
    This was a traditional household which means men and women eat separately, normally the men first and the women get what’s left over. However today the women were quite excited; with the guests of honour being women, the women were to eat first and the men got what was left over!
    Once the lamb and the rice were cooked it was all arranged on a huge plate, corpus, head and other things, we all arranged ourselves around the big plate and started picking the meat directly of the lamb. It was delicious. I find this eating with my fingers quite a sensual experience, even though I make quite a mess with the rice. It has to be squshed into a ball shape in the palm of your hand first and then pushed into the mouth with your thumb; this takes some practice and I don't manage this very well. But everybody is very forgiving have they all taught a lot of children how to eat.
    It was very hard to convince the woman that Jasmin does eat absolutely no meat or anything that came in touch with meat, no rice with the meat juices poured over either. Poor Jasmin, it was quite a challenge for her to eat the rice that had seen some meat juices with the lamb’s head staring at her, but she bravely managed to empty her plate.
    Once we were finished eating the leftovers were nicely arranged on a fresh plate and delivered to the men.
    Of course, I was very interested to learn about the marriage arrangements. Unfortunately we only got the male version, due to communication restrictions.
    Men can have up to 4 wives as long as they can provided for them. I of course wonder how the peace is being kept between all those wives. I imagine it as extremely difficult to put up with another woman sharing a man with me. The secret I am told is in treating all the women the same: the same amount of nights spent with every woman, same amount of money, same living standards. Simple! But what if you love one woman more than another? Simple too: this does not happen, you can love them all the same, but not fall in love with one. And when you don’t love one at all or she causes too much grieve, you can divorce her. Easy peasy! And can she initiate divorce as well? Apparently yes.
    So now we know! I just wonder what is the female version. But somehow it seemed to be working, at least in this household on that evening: the father’s wives seemed to get along well with each other, had a lot to chat and giggle, so I guess this is a good sign?
    And he is happy with his one wife? Yes he is, but he is looking for another wife nevertheless. But she asks him sometimes if he loves her, or will ever love her… Lovely, sweet Sarah!!    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    2

    Rijal Almaa

    1 marzo 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    At one stage, as I am following Jasmin in her car, I wonder about her erratic indicating and blinking warning lights. Finally, she pulls over, comes running towards me with a beaming smile and asks me if I saw those monkeys. No I hadn’t seen them but I tell her, there will be more and we continue our journey. All by myself I wonder how I could be so blasé about it, what if there are no more monkeys? But I needn’t worry. Just some corners further down the road, they were roaming the hills. More than 50 of them, a huge family, big boys, kids, mothers carrying babies on their backs and around their bellies. When we stopped, they were running towards us, carefully, noisy, screeching and each fighting for the apple pieces we were throwing towards them. Of course, we were targeting the mothers who were a bit slower than the rest, hampered by the precious cargo they were carrying. At one point king monkey ran screeching towards Jasmin, who could rescue herself into her car just in time.
    Rex did not like the monkeys. I think they reminded him too much of screaming children. So, after a bit of barking he decided to hide from them in his safe spot between the driver’s paddles.
    These monkeys were from now on a daily occurrence. You could spot them everywhere, on the mountain peaks, on the walls lining the roads, in the morning rummaging in the big rubbish bin close to our vehicles and making a huge racket. Quite a nuisance those creatures, picking apart every rubbish bag and leaving an unbelievable mess in their wake.
    But this stretch of road has something more on offer. I have travelled a lot of passes on my 40.000km journey; steep ones, mean ones, pot holed ones, rock plastered ones, every sort you can possibly imagine. But I was not prepared for the Saudi passes! These things go straight to heaven or hell, depending which way you go. Oh man! They are steep! Never seen anything like it!
    After my Kyrgystan experience, where I have fried off my brakes, I am a bit weary. Therefore going down these passes was a heart stopper for me; not for worry of the decline or those really mean, close and steep curves but for worry for my brakes. There were no safe escape routes should they fail, the only way was downhill.
    But when getting to Rijal Almaa, we knew this was really worth it. This is an ancient village, built up a hill, containing multi storey houses, hugging up the hill as they climb up. A place of stunning beauty, nestled into this green valley. What a surprise and exceeding all expectations. I reminded me on those Yemenite architecture which I always wanted to see, but very likely never will.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe

    Where the Road goes down,it has to go up

    3 marzo 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our next goal was Faifa, an apparently green, lush Village high up in the mountains.
    Having driven down the road from the plateau to Rijal Alma we knew the roads can be quite steep and taking into account Lola’s quite girly attitude when it comes to steep inclines, we carefully chose the least steep road. Still, oh my, once we got there, we realised the inclines go up to 50%. Honestly! We decided that Jasmin went to drive ahead and look for a good overnight spot, as I knew I had to take it slow and it is going to take me some while. Well, let me say it like this, I had a lot of opportunities to admire the monkeys on this road. Drive a few 100m, let it cool, admire monkeys, drive few 100m, let it cool, admire the view. Do you know how steep 50% are? It would throw you out of your seat did you not have a back support!!! I was close to giving up but Jasmin coaxed me up, sending me encouraging messages, and at the end I made it. Jasmin had chosen a nice spot overlooking the valley. The only thing wrong with it were the rubbish bins close by which were noisily raided by the monkeys first thing in the morning, leaving and indescribable mess in their wake.Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    1

    Dinner at Thee AlAin

    3 marzo 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Arriving at the car park to the "white Marble Village" at Thee AlAin we are right away welcomed by two gentlemen, offering us the Saudi coffee that I have learned to highly value. It has not a lot in common with the coffee we know but is a quite bitter and very fragrant concoction spiced with cardamom and I am not sure what other spices. You only get poured one mouthful at a time and tastes delicious with dates or other sweets.
    No, this was not a welcoming committee, but two visitors themselves, who just had returned from their sightseeing when we arrived. But them having already seen the “white marble village” does not deter them from walking with us and the dogs again and showing us around. Without them we very likely would not have wandered behind the village once we had seen it all, and therefore would have missed the groves and the little gurgling fountain coming out of the mountain.
    Once we came down the hill our two new friends decided it was time for dinner. Jasmin and I locked the dogs in the car and were then chauffeured in luxury in their fancy car. Not needing to drive, sitting in a comfy leather seat and let the world go past… I haven’t enjoyed that since Arman left.
    Off we drove and drove, Jasmin and myself wondering where we were going, but somehow I had gotten used to these oriental “close by” locations that are really quite far, therefore I was not particularly worried.
    Eventually we arrived at a huge car park, cars parked in quite a distance form each other and in between were huge groups of robed men lounging on carpets smoking shisha or eating. I glanced about and found, we were the only women far and beyond.
    In no time a servant arrived with a wheelbarrow loaded with carpets and lounging cushions. He quickly spread the carpets on the ground beside the car, threw down the cushions and ready was our table. We needn’t wait long and the dinner was served. A huge plate filled with meat, goat this time, and rice. The water bowl to wash our hands made its rounds and we could start to eat. It was delicious!
    Poor Jasmin, only rice again with some onions, but at least this time the rice was not contaminated with meat juices.
    Thanks Gents, this was quite a Saudi experience in very pleasant company.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    12

    Jeddah

    4 marzo 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    When we were down south at Jizan, Jasmin remembered to have read that the ancient city of Hegra, a very important archeologial site, is located in the middle of Saudi would be “closing” on the 8th of March until October this year. So, if we wanted to see this place, we had to get moving. Quicksmart! Particularly as this were 1400km the shortest route.
    When our Arabic friends in Thee AlAin were unable to confirm this information we dropped our plans to visit more sites, but Jeddah we had to see!
    We arrived in Jeddah during peak hour evening traffic. I was just waiting for a traffic light to turn green when suddenly a car honked on my right side. When looking over I say a troopy standing beside me, clearly some more overlanders!
    I wanted to wind down my window, but it refused to work so I had to give it a good knock. Another thing to fix!! I feel like a dill, fumbling with my window, but once it moves down we start chatting, my right hand drive making this conversation really easy.
    This were some Greek fellows, on their way to Africa, working on their Sudan entry visa. Nearly missing the traffic light turning to green we pulled over and continued chatting. At the end we ended up staying overnight at an apartment of another Greek, they hadn’t known before their trip either, giving us the opportunity of a wonderful shower and washing our overdue clothes. And their Greek neighbours invited us all for dinner.
    The next morning we went our separate ways, Vassili and Dimitri (it was nice meeting you two!!) to nurse their really difficult visa process, and we had to see the balconies of Jeddah if nothing else.
    Too many cats roaming the streets of Jeddah, so Rex had to stay in the car and I could enjoy strolling through the “Balad”, the old part of town, without a permanent pulling-on-the-leash. Quite enjoyable, I have to admit.
    Well, these balconies, built to give the women of the house a view of the buzzling street below, whilst very likely not being permitted to immerse themselves, however shielding them from the view of male passerbys. Even though the thought incenses my feminist leanings, I have to admit, most of these balconies are of extreme beauty and outstanding craftmanship. I wondered about the illumination of the rooms behind those balconies, the game of light and shadow, ever changing throughout the day… but unfortunately, I was not given the opportunity to explore this any further.
    Before returning back to the cars, we had to have some coffee in a beautiful coffee shop in the Balad. Being invited to the table of some very nice Arab people, I had an Arabic coffee in the most beautiful cup and pincher, served on a copper tray. And I fell in love… With the set... I have hardly bought anything on my trip so far, not even a carpet!!! So I think I deserve to get myself a set of those!!!! I am sure I can find a spot to store in in Lola. This will give me a good excuse to return to Jeddah, and pay this city the attention it deserves.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe

    A visit at the Post Office

    5 marzo 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Nowadays it is getting really difficult to find some post cards. So when we were in Jeddah we got lucky and I bought 6 pieces. Unfortunately this shop did not sell any stamps and as we were in a rush we thought we get them on the way, somewhere.
    In Thuwal I needed to get some fuel, so whilst I was refuelling, Jasmin went to look for a post office. She found one and sent me the location for me to meet her once I was done with the fuel.
    When I arrived she had already stamped her card and sent it off.
    So in I go, Salam Alaikum, and could I please have some stamps for my post cards. Yes sure and out he pulls his folder, only to find, the amount of stamps would just be enough for one card and because they are so small denominations, half of the card would be plastered with stamps. I wouldn't have minded that, would this save me a lot of writing, but the amount of stamps for one card is not enough. How can we solve this problem? What problem? There is no problem and he turns to his computer.
    Okay: what is your name? my name? I want to send this card to... yes, your name. can I see your passport please? OK, one moment, my passport is in the car. Out I go, retrieving my passport from the car. He slowly punches in my name.
    What is your phone number? My phone number, I grumble under my breath. Sorry, don't know my phone number, my phone is in the car, Do we really need this? Yes we do. So out I go again to the car, retrieving my phone.
    What is the name of the person receiving the card? I am spelling the name and he, visibly not used to the Latin keyboard searches for the letters to type the name. And the country and the address? I spell this out to him as well, hopefully successfully hiding my growing impatience.
    And with this, we are done! After what seems to be at least 10 mins, he prints out the stamp and we stick it onto the card. He thinks we are done, but there are 5 more stamps I need. We surely can just print out 5 more with this above information? NO! NO, this is not possible.
    OK, next stamp: my name, my phone number, holy shmoly, this is going to take forever! But then he has an idea! He looks at me with a wide grin and he gestures to me that I should get out the door I came in, go around the building and re-enter through the staff door and then I can type this myself.
    Tis is a very reasonable suggestion and so I find myself on the other side of the Postoffice counter. I take his seat in front of the computer. As he moves the mouse and makes the selections at this PO site, as this of course is in Arabic, I type in the information. Now we progress speedily through my stamps.
    In the mean time the office closes, and the office manager is coming in and questioning the activities at this late office hour. He finds this situation quite amusing and serves some tea.
    Jasmin is of course wondering what has happened to me, particilarly as the office has shut it's doors, it surely cannot take that long to get some stamps, and she comes searching for me trough the back door as well. I am very happy about her curiosity, because where would the proof be for this little story if she wasn't there to take a picture?
    Well, as it happens, the cards still have not been sent. With everything going on since, corona and so forth, and not knowing if these traceable stamps are still valid....    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    2

    Al Ula, Madain al Saleh, Hegra

    9 marzo 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After a few long driving days we finally reached Al Ula, the base camp for the sights in Hegra.
    Saudi never ceases to amaze me. The diversity of the landscape is for me totally unexpected and the landscape surrounding this town is outstanding. Crops of big round mountains and out of the earth rock formations. This looks really promising.
    After enquiring about the archaeological sites it was confirmed that the next day will be the last until the site reopens in October and that we only can view them with an organised tour.
    Still, we could not believe this so we decided to take a trip through the desert and see if we can get to the sites without masses of people surrounding us. We drove for a few hours and not really getting far due to very difficult sandy terrain but again and again hit the fence surrounding the area. Had still fun driving through the desert in my car together though.
    So next morning we left the dogs behind and jumped on a tour bus.
    “Hegra it is the largest conserved site of the civilization of the Nabataeans south of Petra in Jordan. It features well-preserved monumental tombs with decorated facades dating from the 1st century BC to the 1st century AD. The site also features some 50 inscriptions of the pre-Nabataean period and some cave drawings. Hegra bears a unique testimony to Nabataean civilization. With its 111 monumental tombs, 94 of which are decorated, and water wells, the site is an outstanding example of the Nabataeans’ architectural accomplishment and hydraulic expertise.” (Text copied from UNESCO website)
    And it was worth the while. These tombs, carved into sandstone, well preserved were absolutely fascinating.
    But what took my fancy just as much was the Al Mayara Concert Hall outside of Al Ula, a mirrored cube set in the middle of the desert, reflecting its surrounds, ever changing with the sun moving in the sky.
    I will let the pictures do the talking.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe

    Al Ula

    11 marzo 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We stayed in Al Ula for a while, the hole in my fuel tank opened up again and needed repair, the dogs needed immunisations and certificates and Jasmin and I just needed some rest.
    But of course the rest never happens. My planned day of rest was distroyed by a big and unexpected gust of wind which grabbed my annex and folded it over the roof, braking several rods and attachments but thankfully not destroying the metal roof it was attached to. But that was the end of my annexe. What a shame with the summer approaching..
    One day Jasmin left with Zaggy to make her way to the UAE. Rex misses his little friend.
    I further explored the vicinity, having this stroke of luck by meeting my German co- travellers. As Corona was poking up its nasty head by now, we decided to stay in touch to support each other by exchanging information during these uncertain times, before separating again to each follow our planned routes.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    11So close and yet so far...

    Stranded in Saudi Arabia

    18 marzo 2020, Gulf of Aqaba ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Corona. Borders closing. Where to go?
    In Al Ula I had met a few German Overlanders and we were discussing this matter, tossing up options: returning to the UAE, finding our way home this way, me not knowing what or where home is in the first place. Some were thinking of shipping out to Sudan, leaving to Jordan, and what then? And of course the option to stay put in Saudi, or one could perhaps leave the car here and fly home to return when borders reopened. But what will have happened to the vehicles in the mean time? They can only stay for the duration of the original visa? Or can't they? So many questions.
    I decided to stay in Saudi.
    However one morning I wrote up and knew, I want to wait it out in Egypt, at RockSea, my little paradise in the Sinai with my cousin and his family. So I took off towards the Jordanian border. 500km to the border. Rex needed another course of vaccination before crossing the border into Jordan and i took the time to wait for the veterinarian to reopen his practice after the afternoon prayer to sort out some other stuff. It got quite late so I did not make it through the border. Lucky!!!
    I had just found a place to stay for the night close to the border when I received the news that Egypt has closed its borders, and the ferries from Aqaba to Egypt have been cancelled.
    So higher forces have decided about the place to wait until this menace blows over.
    So here I am now. On the red sea. Saudi side. When I look across the sea, I can see the mountains of Sinai and RockSea, where I now long to be. I remember very well, when I was at RockSea I used to look across the red sea, longing to be able to go over there and visit Saudi. Now I am longing to be on the other side again, this time in Egypt. I just hesitated a little too long.
    Soon I will meet up again with the german travellers, once it gets hot we might rent a house together, with a really good AC.
    I had traveled through a lot of countries for nearly a year now, never really time to rest as there were forever visas running out, and so many things to see. Now I will have plenty of time to rest, to digest my impressions, to reflect on my experiences, contemplate a where from here, where to with the years ahead. And pick up on my woefully neglected Find Penguin entries
    And I hope to learn some Arabic, so I can communicate with these lovely people. My new found lady friends gifted me today with an Abaya. How shameful that I can only thank them with a little "shokran"!    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe

    Without a Clue

    24 marzo 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    From yesterday on Saudi is on partial lockdown: curfew from1900hrs – 0600 hrs. Only food stores, petrol stations and pharmacies are open. Every town a ghost town.
    Regardless of this time frame I have been asked several times by police to please leave and go home. All Saudis would be at home under these circumstances. I show them my home, some shrug and give the okay, others ask me to move on but not before apologetically offering me some water or chocolate bars, but not offering a solution where I can stay. Out of sight out of mind.
    Driving through the country I feel like a thief: every police post, man or car giving me a sinking feeling, fearing they stop me. But no, miraculously they all let me pass.
    I am now reunited in the desert with some German overlanders. I am feeling so much better in their company, not needing to cope with this stress by myself.
    Initially we intended to stay in the desert, well-hidden and safe for a few more days. This morning however we received the news that Jordan has declared full lock down, no more walks to the grocery store. Food rations being distributed to the houses. Wow, this can happen to us as well! Then we are well and truly stuffed!!
    So what to do? Renting an apartment is out of the question with Rex, houses seem to be too expensive, the holiday rental apps are not really a help. So tomorrow we will make our way to the mountains, hoping we will find some property we can stay on, idyllically situated under some date palms would be nice for us romantics, somewhere where we can stay with our vans or at least park them up there as well, with some water and electricity. Where we can wait until the whole mess blows over, whenever this might be. And in reach of food distribution should this become necessary. There just has to be a place somewhere that we can rent for an affordable price. And that keeps us cool over the hot months to come
    We will be leaving tomorrow in search of our safe haven, wherever this may be. And hopefully, find it.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    Overnighter at Police Station
    Watch the sign on the wall2Our holiday homeWhere there are Germans, there is coffee and cake

    Saudi Hospitality unsurpassed

    9 aprile 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The evening we decided to leave the next day in search of our safe haven, we prepared for an early start the next morning before going to bed.
    Just when I turned off my light to go to sleep a car pulled up and honked the horn. Until I got up and put on my abaya Olli met the driver and the discussions started with help of Google translate. Our visitor wanted us to leave immediately, did not really have a suggestion where we should go and we did not see a reason for leaving. A lot of mis- or non-understandings followed, and about ½ hour later he drove off.
    Back to bed and trying to sleep.
    This pleasure did not last very long as several cars pulled up, police and some robed civilians got out and the discussions started again. We were not allowed to be outside during the curfew, we have to go to a hotel, that we sleep in our cars was no accepted reason for staying, and on it went. This time we could not talk our way out of it, so we gave in when they offered us to stay in our cars in front of the local police station.
    So getting the car ready, putting in table and chair, stepping on my abaya, losing the headscarf, really testing my patience at that time of day but finally we took off in a convoy to the police station.
    Once arrived there the chief of police was visible relieved that he had us transferred to a “safe” location, showed us the facilities, the kitchen, toilet and gave us the complimentary box of water bottles your are handed in this country wherever you go and you can’t say no to.
    Back to bed. But there is one more knock on my door: it is Olli, bringing fabulous news: they had asked a Saudi family they had met for a very short time only and asked if they knew some accommodation we could possibly use. 10mins later they received the answer: we can use their holiday residence in Al Baha for as long as we need. What an incredible relief!!! And exactly where we wanted to go to as it is nice and cool up in the mountains.
    Up early the next day the plan was to get to Yanbu, do a big grocery shop and then look for some place to stay for the night.
    Once in Yanbu I hit the grocery store, long queues in front, waiting, then donning on gloves and face mask some measurement of my body temperature and I am let into the supermarket. I am about to pack up my trolley as I receive a message from Dagmar and Olli that travel ban will be imposed between the different regions of the country from tomorrow on. As we still have to pass through several provinces, I leave my trolley where it is and we rush out of town immediately. We want to travel as far as we can before the curfew 1900hrs.
    Once it is time to set up camp for the night, we directly drive to the police station and ask for asylum. No probs, over there in front of the school we can stay. Its not a pretty spot, but we are happy to have found a spot where we will not be disturbed after the long day of driving. We did not count on the lack of hand-over information at shift change at the police station, so sure enough, as soon as we were in bed, a knock on my door and the discussions started again. But after some to and fro we were left to our sleep.
    And then, after a long pass from 700m up to 2200m and me fearing Lola’s heat sensitivities, we made it to our holiday residence in Al Baha without much of a problem. And want a surprise this is: a huge house, we can use the ground floor with 3 bathrooms, kitchen, washing machine, a huge garden with trees, not a common thing in this country, and extra little house in the garden, with toilet and carpeted sitting area. What luxury!!! And after the humid heat down at the ocean, we are sitting here in the evenings with socks and jumpers! Wonderful!
    The next day Diddi and Daniela, another German couple that travelled through Africa joined us as well. Now we are complete.
    Finally, after all the frantic activity of the last few days we have the opportunity to clean and repair the cars, to the washing, sort out stuff and, at least we thought, to rest.
    Until our peace was rudely interrupted by an email from the Saudi tourist office that we should leave our contact details should an evacuation be necessary.
    Lots of discussion ensued: if we fly out what will happen to our vehicles? Letters were drafted and sent to consulates to find out the legalities.
    For me the situation is different from that of the Germans: after a lot of enquiry I found out I cannot fly Rex to Australia from Saudi. He will need to fly from another country, but before I can arrange for this, blood needs to be taken for a Rabies titer test, after which we will need to wait for 180 days before I can fly him into Australia. Next option, Germany. No, I cannot fly into Germany as I am neither German nor have a residency status. And Rex by himself, and then after 180 days to Oz? No, flights don’t take any dogs. So, that’s it for me, I will stick it out here in Saudi until some borders open… somewhere.
    In the meantime, we are touchingly cared for. The hospitality and generosity of the Saudis is extraordinary. They do anything in their might to make you feel welcome and happy
    Every morning the gardener provides us with bread and dip and we had to fight hard and gently for him not to bring us some more food goodies, as we really don’t want to stretch the hospitality. Two days ago, a local member of the family surprised us with masses of fruit and vegetables - in addition of the fruit and vegetable we can just pick here in the garden. Health workers were asked by the family to visit and check on our health and providing us with masks and gloves.
    By now the curfew has increased starting at 1500hrs. poor Rex, lucky Elisabeth, only one walk a day from now on!
    None of us want to leave at this stage, but one day we will have to pack up and go.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    Waiting at the Police Station a la VIP
    2Waschtag

    Alone in Al Baha

    18 maggio 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After many long and partially painful deliberations my german friends decided it best to leave for Germany. So nearly 4 weeks ago now they took a flight organised by the Austrian embassy from Jeddah. For me flying anywhere is unfortunately not an option: Europe doesn't allow me in as I neither have an European passport nor a residency Permit. Back to Australia is not an option due to the quarantine restrictions for dogs. I cannot import a dog from Saudi full stop. I have to bring him in from a third country but all borders are closed.
    So I have to stay behind.
    I wave them off early morning in the 22nd April. Black Wednesday!! It was so hard to see them go, leaving me behind!!!
    So for the last nearly 4 weeks I have been by myself. Kept myself busy, had still a myriad of car repairs to complete, some more successful than others. That it is Ramadan does't help, people are tired, hungry, don't feel like it. The biggest job is my damaged crankshaft or parts thereof. Communication is of course a big problem. They cannot get the parts in all of Saudi, due to Corona they cannot order from abroad. My car is gone for a few days, which is quite hard, Rex and I miss Lola, and strangely enough, even though you think you are well prepared you always forget to take some essentials out of the car. I mean, she is my house, right?
    When I go to pick her up, thinking they could not repair it, they tell me they have welded it all back together. The noise is gone, everything working and no Rial paid!!! Good on you guys!! Thanks so much!!
    But there is still another big unresolved problem looming: a slipping"clutch". After a lot of deliberation, discussion with friends, by coincident I drop into a garage who specialises in gearboxes. The mechanic checks it out and his verdict is gearbox damage. I had feared that, so it didn't come as a big surprise. But here as well again, no parts in Saudi and no parts can be ordered in. Bugger!
    In the mean time I am keeping busy, doing some other repairs, sewing, cleaning, washing, some gardening, the usual stuff, but unfortunately my neighbours and the gardener are thinking I am lonely and bored and being Arabs, being hospitable as they are, they cannot help themselves, and beleager me with invitations for dinner. That it is Ramadan doesn't help, I cannot go quickly for an afternoon tea, as they fast, and it is horrible for them not to be able to spoil me. UnsuccessfulIy I am trying hard to defend myself from too much neighborly love.
    To make matters worse, I get smack in the middle of some neighbourly dispute. The gardener tells me, the other men was no good, ("Filistin! Filistinn!" Later I had to read up in google, i knew the Filistins were mentioned in the Bible; they are the modern day Palestinians) I should not let them in the garden. No good man. Not talk to him. So what am I to do?? Well, I can say I am sick, headache or something else.
    I am unable to fully follow his recommendations, I mean, he just rocks up at the gate, brings food his wife has prepared etc. So I receive an email from my host telling me to keep my distance, not to let anyone in. They are worried about my safety. I was kind of set back to my teenage years! But, I am the guest , so no more open gate for this fellow and his family.
    The gardeners family is really very lovely, but no word English is spoken, and as hard as I may try, my Arabic doesn't really stick, so our conversations are quite limited. Even though Awais has a cunning ability to mimic what he wants to express the conversation is exhausting. I am really sorry to say this, but I prefer to have my dinner by myself. At least most of the time.
    But then workshops and waiting for my car to be repared introduces me to mainly young men who speak English. This gives me some time of verbal exchange, time with their families and I have their support when I AGAIN, run into problems.
    But all of this is starting to grind me down. I am longing for conversations with friends, with people who know me, for whom I am not this exotic lady, but just me. I am longing to talk to people who I know, who at least have the same cultural background. Where I don't need to ponder, can I do this, can I say that, how shall I interpret that situation? When after dinner on my way out the door, the Lady of the house presses a 100 Rial note, around $40 in my hand, I resist and put it back into her pocket just to find this money in my bag when I get home. What am I going to make out of this? When I give it back to her, is this a great offence? Why is she doing this? What does it mean? How am I going to deal with this? Why are they not eating the food I bring over? Lots of questions and insecurities that under different circumstances would be very interesting but now are mainly tiring.
    We people stranded in Saud have founded a WhatsApp support group. Only two of its members are still in the country. Apart from me a brave family with 3 children.
    They are in Jeddah at the moment, just moved into a house in a compound with lots of expats. Would I have scoffed at the notion of moving in with a lot of foreigners like me instead of looking for contact with the locals, I am so starved for communication that I jump at Steffen's suggestions of getting a house for me there as well. Again, I never met this man, and he and the other Jeddah people are so helpful and supportive. The only problem I can see is a travel permit as travelbans still prevail due to Corona and that my car has the gearbox problem. So how to get there?
    One of my Saudi contacts makes some enquiries. No problem, he says, the police will help. Yeah, but the car transport? Don't worry! This is what police is there for. But... Just go to the police!
    So today I went into town to the police to get a travel permit to Jeddah. You can complete this permit application on line, but for one is it arabic, and two you need an Iqama number this is the national ID number. After some to and fro finally somebody arrived who speaks English. He is not one of the line police officers, but highly decorated. Still very young! And good looking!
    He compliments me into his luxurious office. There I learn that he has been in Australia for one year, 10 years back. Lucky me! Well, I hope he has had a good time there! I need that now!
    After some more nice small talk he starts completing the application, when he as well gets stuck on the Iqama number. But this problem can be solved as well, we just need to wait for the Captain. He will be there in an hour. So that I don't need to wait in the empty ante room, with possible strange men arriving which could make me feel uncomfortable, I am ushered into another big man's Office. I hope they don't forget me there. It's taking quite a long time, this hour. Enough to write this whole article so far. On the phone.
    I'll send this off now, end of story to follow.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe

    Pinch me

    18 maggio 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    So here I am sitting in this office, waiting for the General, when finally the door opens and I get summoned into the sanctum of what I later learn is the highest police official in the province of Al Baha.
    I step into this office, the Director General, that’s his title, an imposing man sitting on his desk, to his right four more highly decorated POs sitting and some other with less decoration on their lapels standing in attention. And here Elisabeth marches in, with at dignified smile on her face and being seated opposite the Director General, DG in short.
    “Salaam aleikum” - “Aleikum Assalaam” - “Kaif haluk?” - “Hamdullah”
    At least I know how to behave by now.
    Thank goodness, as my vocabulary nearly has run out, the DG turns his attention to the dapper Major (or Whatever his rank is) asking what he can do for me. A long explanation ensues, DG nods his head, more questions and answers and finally he turns to me and says in a General’s voice of course:
    DG: your car stays here!
    Me, thinking shock horror: No! My car will not stay here!
    DG: Yes, your car will stay here and I will repair it!
    Me, what! Did I just hear this correctly???: - - - - - ah, ah, thank you very much, but apparently there are no spare parts in all of Saudi!
    DG: I will repair your car.
    Me: I am so very greatful! Thank you so much! (If the police needs a part they for sure will get it! He’s my biggest hope!)
    DG: when the car is repaired we deliver it to you (Ghee, don’t even need to pick it up!) and you will get the travel permit to Jeddah at any time you want. And I will get you a room.
    Even a travel permit when the state is in full lock down again after Ramadan. WOW! That’s amazing news and a huge relief for me. I mean, everything is!
    Me: Ahm, this is really very nice of you, but I have a room.
    DG: No, you will get a hotel room.
    Me: I cannot get a hotel room, I have a dog!
    DG: No, you will get a room and we will take care of your dog.
    You can feel he is not used to be contradicted when he voices a command, but my times as Safety Advisor comes into good stead, so I am not too easily intimidated and I fight for me being allowed to stay in my beautiful place. Of course with Rex. And succeed!
    DG: I driver will come and drive you to your home.
    I am telling him I for sure can organise a pick up, but no way, he has organised somebody already (whilst we were talking! I don’t know how he did that, honestly! No surprise he is the DG of the district, with this efficiency!)
    Some pleasantries follow, everybody in the room wants to know, where I am from, how I get here, Alone by car so far, and how old are you! 65! Hammdullah! Here everone wants to know your age, a very strange concept for us Westerners but it doesn’t fail to surprise them to see a woman my age to travel by herself and they really bend over backwards to accommodate me in any way possible.
    As an afterthought he asks me if I am in need of money! Is there no limit to their generosity?
    Finally I am told the driver has arrived, I, kind of unable to express my gratitude but thanking again profusely, and I am good byed out of the office.
    Totally stunned I follow the Major who hands me on to somebody else, whom I continue to follow down the stairs. Outside the driver is awaiting and the tow truck is already parked beside my car, waiting for my car keys to be handed over.
    And then Rex and I are chauffeured home.
    In the evening the mechanic contacted me to tell me the same diagnosis as I had before, telling me he now has to order the parts. Lets cross all our fingers, he gets hold of them; somehow.
    After getting home, letting everything that happened to me today sink in I am totally baffled, shocked by the generosity and preparedness of these people to help me. They really do anything in their power to help a foreigner in need. They go so far beyond anything I could possibly expect, it leaves me speechless, humbled and utterly grateful. They will always have a very special place in my heart.
    Somewhere in our conversation the DG ordered his phone number to be given to me, so I can contact him any time I run into trouble. This is for some smooth sailing through Saudi, hey? Somebody doing the dirty on me – let me quickly call the DG of the AL Baha district, he will sort you out! Oh, I ran through some red light here? You might want to discuss this with my buddy the … Problem sorted! But you know what? This will not be necessary, there will always be somebody to help me out of a situation. Of any situation, I am sure. I am a guest in this country after all.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe

    Where there is Light, there is Shade

    19 maggio 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    From this Saturday the 23rd on there will be total curfew imposed on all regions in KSA. We here in the Al Baha region slipped through the total curfew-net so far, not this time. It will be very strict, going out with permit only for a very restricted time each day (I am not quite sure what the conditions are exactly). My biggest worry are my doggy walks. The boy will go absolutely bonkers if he cannot get out.
    For this reason my Saudi friend Aziz, he is the guy who enquired with the police about the travel permit and told me they will help, and his brother came over today to take me out to do a decent grocery shop, as I don’t have a car. He will not be able to come closer to the curfew, due to working commitments.
    So we done the shop and then went to my place to sit in the garden together and have a nice conversation as normal people do. Man! Did I enjoy this! Two intelligent people to talk to in English! What Luxury! Whilst we were sitting there Awais, the gardener comes in, behaving very reserved and disappears again. We continue our conversation.
    After a while I hear a car pull up outside the gate, Awais is coming back in and motions to Aziz to please come outside. I stay in the garden wondering what was going on, then Aziz’s brother gets up, takes their stuff. I follow him outside. Awais is out there with the brother of the house owner. I just have time to say hello when Aziz and his brother are climbing into their car and Said and Awais are driving off.
    What is going on here!! It already dawns on me: the request not to have any visitors has not only been issued for this “Filistin”, my Palestinian neighbour, but apparently to all males.
    I am fuming, but nobody to direct my fury to. Again I feel treated like a wayward teenager. This is a situation unthinkable and totally unacceptable for Western women! But that’s exactly the point (I guess): I am not in the West, I am in Saudi Arabia. And the Saudi hospitality extends as well to my protection. Even if I cannot fully understand what I need to be protected from, being a sensible and I think as well sensitive person with well developed instincts, the Saudis might see this differently. I am a single woman unprotected in a fenced in yard, behind high walls, alone with two males. As I have been explained previously: when in trouble, for example if I have murdered somebody (don’t scoff, that’s how it has been explained to me) and somebody is chasing me for that reason, I can go to any house and give myself into the protecting hands of that family. Nobody will be able to touch me, the clan will protect me until the law process takes over. I don’t really know what happens if the person I murdered belongs to that clan as well, but I think this fine detail will not have a lot of relevance to my life here in Saudi.
    Therefore: as long as I am guest in this house, I am under the protection of the family. They rather prevent anything from happening to me than needing to throw themselves between me and my attacker.
    Now that I had to think this situation through to write this down, I can better understand what happened today and cope a bit better with this disaster. I just can hope my car will be fixed soon, so I can escape this solitary confinement. And can take my life into my own hands once again.
    PS: After they left Aziz rang me to apologise. For what I am not sure, they have done absolutely nothing wrong. In my eyes. But he might have a better understanding of the situation than I and perhaps have the knowledge of “having done something wrong” in their cultural context. I will ask next time I see him.
    PS, PS: I did not go to Awais for dinner tonight. Had to pay him back, little snitch!!
    And another PS to further the understanding: my traveller friend Daniela told me today, and google helped me to confirm,that up to a few years back the "Vice Sqad" controlled the religious observance and morality in the country and immoral behaviour, like a woman being alone with a male she is neither realated with or married to could be arrested and beaten. So I am nearly tempted to be grateful for the encroaching behavior of my hosts.    Leggi altro

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  • ElisaLola RexelbyViaggiatoreAustralia to Europe
    Non-Muslims are not allowed into Makkah
    Jeddah is famous for its roundabout sculptures and statues

    Back in Jeddah

    1 giugno 2020, Arabia Saudita ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    ....And, as was to be expected, Lola could not be repaired in Al Bahah.
    Now plan B: move to Jeddah, which is close to 400km away. One of my Saudi friends organised a tow truck, all I needed was a travel permit. Time was of the essence as 2 days later a total curfew was to commence for all of the KSA. Hence back to visit my benefactor, the DG.
    Back in his office he tells me he will now organise for my van to be transported to Jeddah and then he'll help with the repair. I object, organising transport was not necessary, but thank you very much, as that had already been done. The dapper major reprimands me: do I or don't I want the DG to help me? Oh yes, of course do I want! That's how Lola, Rex and me were picked up and driven to Jeddah the next day. For free!
    I just had enough time to say my good byes and have dinner with my friend Mohammed and his family. (He's the one with the large Mercedes Benz for his 10 year old son, who is small for his age. When asked the boy how he finds the pedals, he said he sits on the edge of the car seat 🤞).
    On the 22 May I moved in at an expat compound here in Jeddah.
    Initially I moved in with the other overlander couple Birgit and Steffen and their 3 children. I enjoyed this livly household and their company very much, but after a few days I had my own house to move in.
    Its a strange world, a parallel universe to Saudi with its western living style and dress codes. There is no need to venture into the foreign, everything you need is here: grocery store, hair dresser and beauty salon, medical services, even a vet and pet store. Several swimming and sport facilities, which I, as smuggled through the security, cannot use , and restaurants, just reopening now.
    I start to comprehend why some westerners can live in those far away countries, without getting to know and understand the local population. Being locked away in those compounds with no connection to the real world.
    On one hand I am happy to be here, being able again to speak with people, and have some like minded people around me, but I miss Saudi, its charm, its people, the many smiles and friendly words, the chaos. Once I have Lola again, we can continue to venture out. If it just wasn't so hot, but afterall heat has been invented by the Saudis.
    Even though it urges me to get travelling again, I already dread the day I have to leave the Orient behind.
    One day shortly after arriving in Jeddah, the dapper Major rings me, asking if I could send a voice mail to the Emir, praising the services I have received by the DG. Well I don't mind adding an Emir to my phone contacts; the next stop then will be the King, and after that Allah, but him I let rather wait a while. Later I wished I wouldn't have followed that request so promptly, as this lead the DG to forget all about my repairs that he promised to complete. But in the end I had some other nice people finding the right man for the job.
    Today 8/7, I finally got news the transmission had been fixed, but we still need some more parts for the shaft. So slowly but surely we are getting back on the road.    Leggi altro

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