Australia to Europe

april 2019 - april 2023
29th of April 2019 until 1st April 2013 Meer informatie

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  • Saoedi-Arabië
  • Oman
  • Verenigde Arabische Emiraten
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  • Turkmenistan
  • Oezbekistan
  • Tadzjikistan
  • Alles weergeven (13)
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  • A day in Khujand

    12 november 2019, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Staying at a large family, consisting as so many here, out of grand parents, daughters and/or daughters in law, whose husbands are working in Russia and of course their children plus children left with their grandparents whilst both parents are living in Russia. Here I stumbled across an intriguing piece of furniture: a narrow cradle with a hole in the middle. I found out that at least small babies don't wear any nappies, and that hole solves the soiling problem. For boys there is a pipe-like contraption that gets attached to their little penis, unfortunately they did not have the equivalent for girls in the house, and everything gets diverted into a container attached to the bed. To keep the baby in situ they get tied down with silky straps.
    Well, saves a lot of nappies and washing.
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  • A warm Welcome to Uzbekistan

    12 november 2019, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    First day in a new country is always quite busy, you need to sort out car insurance, SIM card, perhaps money if you were not able to do this in the previous country, as was the case this time. I did not find a bank in Tajikistan that would hold any Uzbek Som as the currency has been deregulated. In addition to that I needed to refill my gas bottle. I just had to exchange my Mongolian bottle in Dushanbe as the regulator was leaking. And for whatever reason it was already empty. Strange!!! And scary.
    Whatever. In the first larger town I entered in Uzbekistan I saw a shop sign saying "Kredit ...", so thinking it was a bank I stopped, only to realize, this is no bank but a shop you can buy things on credit. Not what I wanted. So I ask the man standing next to me, where was the next Bank. Oh, I have taxi here, I drive you there. Cheeky bugger I think, thanks, but no thanks. The next person I ask shows me the direction. Off I walk and I walk. .. this cannot be right, so I ask a lady coming my way. Yes you come with me she signs at me, so I turn around and walk with her in the direction I just came from. Just where I have parked my car she makes an attempt to gently shove me in a group taxi. This are teeny little vans, about half the size of mine, in Australia they would seat 6 max, here you get in 8, with some goodwill 10 people and a carpet for good measure. I mean what are Windows there for, if not to open them and stick the carpet out sideways. I put up some resistance, don't I have a single Som to my name, and the driver wants some money for sure. So a big debate ensues. There comes a man to my rescue who speaks English, and to him I am able to explain my predicament, just arrived in U, have no uzbek money, need bank to change, taxi is to bring me there but needs to be paid for. Can't finish telling him my car is just parked over here, please tell me where bank is, I can drive myself. He briefly talks to the driver, the driver nods, they push me into the taxi. But... "No money" I say, "Taxi free" he indicates and off we go. And go and go. How am I going to find my Lola and Rex again, quickly I set a pin on Google earth, and go and go. Finally the taxi stops, "this bank", I say many "Rahmats", thank yous, everyone laughs gently, hands on my shoulder oh, she speaks Uzbek, I laugh back and off I go into the bank. Long cue at the counter, but I am insistently pushed to the front. No waiting for this foreign lady. I am sent to another counter, where again I have the privilege of jumping the cue and 5 mins later I have money in my pocket. Feels better right away.
    But now, how do I get back??? Well, when in Rome, do as the Romans do. I put myself at the roadside and stick out my thumb to the first group-taxi that comes my way, it promptly stops. I jump in to the excitement of everyone already in there, and off we go. Loud music, a lot of chattering and at a speed faster than to my liking but did I enjoy this little trip! Should do it more often.
    Next stop SIM card. Nothing remarkable happening here.
    Now back to the car and looking to get my gas bottle refilled.
    Most cars in Uzbekistan are driving on gas to the extent, that petrol and particularly diesel is really hard to come by. In all the other countries I was able to get my gas bottle refilled at fuel stations that as well had gas for cars. So I thought it would be as easy as driving up to one gas refuelling stations, but no such luck. It's Methane not Propane they drive on. So where do I find Propane? No one really knows, just some approximate direction on the map. So off I the drive trying to find propane. One thing here is driving and looking for anything when cars are coming at you left, right and center in the oriental fashion, the other thing is deciphering the Cyrillic writing; but eventually I see a gas bottle sign which I follow. But unfortunately this is a workshop where they retrofit cars for gas use. I tell them what I want, but, no, they cannot help me. So a lot of palaver again, people running here and there, I am told to wait, which I do, being of obedient nature. Eventually a man comes, asks for my bottle, tells me to follow him, opening the passenger door of his car, suggesting I enter and off we go... driving through the whole town, 15 mins at least it seems and voilá, here we are at the propane refilling place.
    This was my first day in Uzbekistan. Is there any better way for a country to introduce itself to me? This boundless preparedness to help in these Central Asian Countries is so heart warming. I know I am repeating myself, but these experiences will have a lasting impact on my life and attitude to people needing help.
    Managed to get some sightseeing done as well that day. First impressions of the glorious architecture of the Uzbek cities along the silk road.
    When visiting the Jami Mosque Museum in Kokand instead of the expected serenity I was greeted by a pop concert, featuring several Uzbek singers. What most impressed me was how these ladies in their long dresses and head scarves got up and stared dancing and enjoying themselves. Unfortunately I could not capture this moment, too far away.
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  • That's the reason Why!

    18 november 2019, Oezbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    For a long time I’ve been planning this trip, preparing as much as I could, figuring out the route, the visa and so on. And finally, you are there and commence to live the dream.
    And for me a dream it is fulfilling a desire I had for many years. However sometimes some other feelings make themselves heard as well, pops up and ask, “why am I doing this? “
    After travelling a whole day, and am totally exhausted and realise I only made 80km and the road conditions will not change for the next 300km…
    In every country you need new currency and to watch out you aren’t getting cheated, where to refuel the vehicle, how to pay, before or after, a new SIM card, that often requires settings to be changed and the list goes on and on.
    Or the really big things, like making myself understood in a language I don’t understand. Google translate? That can be very tricky, often translating utter goobledigook and might get you into trouble.
    So many new impressions that need to be digested, so many different customs adapted to, so many cultural differences understood and bridged. I just need a break. But then I cannot find a spot to rest for a few days. Or you get chased away by military or police, need to get out of the country due to visa limitations.
    When I travel by myself I might not be really talking to somebody for days, only smiling myself through conversations, so I sometimes dread being addressed by another local.
    When my car is in the workshop AGAIN and I have to trott around the industrial estate with Rex for hours on end.
    And probably harder than this travel weariness: sometimes you really miss your friends and family. Shouldn’t bother me that much, I’ve lived far away for the last decades. Still…
    But then there are those many moments, when the view around is of stunning beauty, the village life so picturesque, I drive through the villages and the people wave at me, I have another “conversation” with some woman at the waterpump, at the shop, the street crossing…
    When people realise I am travelling by myself the women putting their hands to their hearts with a big smile on their faces, old men giving me the thumbs up.
    When again I drive through one of those far away villages, the streets teaming with men with long beards, colourful skullcaps and long robes, women dressed in their long patterned, glittery dresses and skilfully arranged headscarves, finding their way through cows and calves, sheep and goats and donkeys carrying their load or pulling a cart. It reminds me of something, causing me to suffer from a deja vu until Co-traveller Christoph solves my puzzle: it is like a "Krippenspiel", a Nativity Scene. That's it!!!
    When against any doubt I manage the Dushanbe rush hour traffic. I have since realised there is no such thing as traffic rules, there is only everyone for themselves and god against everybody else and, Insh 'allah, he guides me home unscathed.
    When the girl finally understands the difference between “was” and “were”.
    When I am invited to a school to talk to the children about myself, my journey and Australia and am perhaps able to inspire one of them to achieve what is important to them.
    When I meet co-travellers that leave a deep impression and give me the feeling of home.
    When again I have a meal in the circle of a local family.
    When this man comes to me and presents me with a croissant. Just so.
    When during the prayer after the meal my hands unintentionally fold themselves in the Christian manner and everybody bursts out laughing.
    When I can glimpse little snippets of the daily lives and customs of those people I get to know and talk to.
    When again and again and yet again, these total strangers, whose language I don’t speak, whose country I hardly knew existed a few years back, who went and are still going through so much hardship, show so much generosity, hospitality, give their time in the attempt to help, offer a bed and a meal – this is touching beyond words.
    These are the moments that make me ashamed of our western way of treating strangers. But these are as well the moments that make my heart hurt from happiness, these are the moments that never will be forgotten. But most of all these are the moments where you say aloud, THIS IS WHY I AM DOING THIS!
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  • Lola friert!

    22 november 2019, Oezbekistan ⋅ ❄️ -1 °C
  • Beacon of Hope

    23 november 2019, Oezbekistan ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    No rain or snow today, so it was time to venture out and visit the main sights of the city. Normally I take the car, so Rexby does not need to plot along through masses of people and noisy traffic, but today I didn't feel like driving through the city again so I decided to go by taxi; cheaper than driving and stress free. The owner of the shop I just visited kindly offered to hail down a car (that's What one does here, this are private cars that take you for some fee), but after 4 failed attempts we gave up. Dog? No way! Perhaps if I had a sheep??? Yandex, the Russian version of uber made it possible at the end.
    First we went to the Chorsu Bazaar, not inside, too crowded for the dog, just around, still causing quite a stir with Rexelby, coming past some more of those cradles and some bread stamps. Now finally I know how they get those pretty patterns onto their bread. After some bit to eat, which for the first time in months I was able to eat whilst being seated, with dog!!! we made our way to the Kast Imom, a big religious complex. Beautiful mosque flanked by 2 x 54m high minaretts. Time to make come pictures, but. ... battery is flat. Doesn't matter, got my charged powerpack in my bag. When I pull it out, I realise, the charging cable is not there. Hm, ah well, no pics then. And then slowly it dawns on me: no phone, no map, no address of the hotel, no yandex = no home. Bugger!!! What now? Need cable. Anyone of those IT'd up twens around? No, none to be seen, just oldies like me, that might have a phone if you are lucky! Next option Phone or electronic shop. Off we go. Normally you can find them anywhere, but of course not when you need one. We need another idea. Somebody else's phone to find the address of the hostel. After some attempts I get lucky, we find the address of the hostel. I have no pen or paper to write it down with and my rescuer has neither. So we ask some passerbys, none of them has a pen only the suggestion to write it into my phone. Yeah, thanks! During our quest to find a pen we come past a toilet block ( people travelling in Islamic countries take note: once in need, you will always find a toilet in the mosque complex). There will for sure be somebody with a pen, he says. What makes you think that, but I don't intercept. So here he disappears just to return some time later, triumphantly swinging the core of a toilet role. Written on it is the address of the hostel once in Latin and once in Cyrillic lettering.
    I am full of gratitude, don't want to keep him any longer has he spent enough time with me. I am one step closer but far from being home yet. So I set off with my Beacon of hope in form of the roll in my hand to find somebody who can find a taxi for me willing to take home me and my dog.
    The first young man I ask cannot find the address, hmm... So I finally find an American lady, working in Tashkent, who organizes my transport home.
    Here I am thinking I was really well prepared for my day of excursion and then my explorer spirit gets knocked down by a typical modern day dilemma. We so fully rely on our mobile phones to do so many tasks for us. Particularly on this trip: it gives me information where to find a hostel, a petrol station, how to find my way through any city on the world, it more or less usefully translates into the strangest of languages, how many Som do I get for my Oz dollar, I can call friends and family anywhere in the world, do my banking and the list goes on. I ran into some difficult situations during my journey, but none has thrown me in a state of panic as I was in today, lost in a completely foreign city in a completely foreign land, not knowing where I was and where to go. But there is always a beacon of hope. It may even come in the shape of the core of a toilet roll.
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  • Samarkand, du Schöne!!

    27 november 2019, Oezbekistan ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C

    Oh Samarkand! No name incites more the flavours of oriental fairy tales, the scent of spices, the rustling of silk and the glimmer of treasures in me than SAMARKAND.
    And what a pleasant surprise this city was from the moment I drove through the gate! Wide boulevards constructed during the UDSSR aera but without that Soviet union "flair". Clean, everywhere those broom ladies fighting the dropping autumn leaves, and, I can hardly believe it, the drivers aren't by far as as pushy as in Dushanbe.
    But then of course there are the cultural highlights. The splendour of the Registan, the Bibi Khanym comlex and many mosques and mausoleums more...... I was totally mesmerized. As you do or might not know I have this middle eastern thing going, so this was right up my alley.
    As it was my luck, on Wednesdays they have a huge light show at the Registan, and I just happened to drop by on my evening walk with Rex. It was spoken in Chinese, so I can only assume a Chinese tour group ordered it as we others had to watch from further away but for free.
    Today I had to say good bye to SAMARKAND, but before leaving I had to get a health certificate for Rex to enter those even more bureaucratic states of Turkmenistan and Iran.
    A little side note: I was there already yesterday but found the opening hours to be from 8-11. So when I left I wanted to turn in that little alley. Alongside every road there is a ditch and I am quite panicky about those. And when doing my three point turn, pointing my noise towards the MIDDLE of the road, suddenly kabbummmm, I am in this ditch with my left front wheel. Right away there are two men and after putting in my 4WD they are pushing me out of trouble again. They told me they do this all the time because this ditch has broken in and now runs into the middle of the road. (Nobody thought of getting this repaired???) Piuhhh!!! By now I have sunk intro 2 ditches and broken through one canal lid.
    So I went to the veterinary services with Rex to get that certificate that he is healthy and all vaccinations are current.
    Thinking they will check the dog I take him with me. When entering it doesn't look anything like a vet practice but more like an office. Two elderly men sitting on desks and a woman asks me for my concern. I tell her what I need. Nobody speaks English so google comes in handy. Long conversations ensue. Where do I come from, where do I go to, where did I live on Samarkand, when did I go where ... has Google translated googledigook again? What had this got to do with the health of my dog? In the meantime I am told my dog cannot be in the office. I thought you need to check his health?? No, only stamp. I mean this is fine buy me, but I need a certificate. Yes, wait for specialist
    So Rex and I are moved into a room that looked like a classroom and the not English speaking lady keeping me company. How exciting! And we are waiting and waiting. 1 1/2 hours later I am told I need to go to another town closer to the border, that's where I get my stamp. Really??? You needed that long to tell me that? But I have to swallow my frustration, he doesn't understand a word I am saying anyway.
    This inefficiency in these countries can be extremely frustrating. They have rules eg for us travellers, that nobody knows what to do with. In Tajikistan for instance you get a 45 day visa, your car however only 15 days. So you need to go and get this permit for the car extended, but not at 14 days and if it is later than 15 days you might get a fine. So you go to that office on the 15th day and they haven't got a clue what to do. Or are they waiting for some bakshish? Who knows.
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  • Mirror, mirror on the Wall

    1 december 2019, Oezbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    The verdict is still out, as tomorrow I will arrive in another one of central Asias treasure boxes, Khiva.
    The sights of Bukhara were again overwhelming. Lots of mosques, Madrassas, carvanserais. Bukhara as well as Samarkand were quite comfortably visited with the dog, quiet streets, pedestrian only areas and parks and hardly any tourists around filling the streets. Being here in the off- season is definitely an advantage.
    We first admired the outside of the buildings together, there are not as many cultured dogs around, and then I looked at the inside without the Rexelby.
    When arriving I meet again friends that already were here for a few days; staying on the car park in front of the Ark I got to know Paula and Finn. We declared the carpark our home: Paula cut my hair whilst Fin attempted to fix my reversing camera and in the evening we had some wines and dinner when some other Co travelers arrived who are on the same circuit as I am. It's the 3rd time we bump into each other. It is so wonderful to meet these people again and again, it makes you feel a bit at home on the road.
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  • Just imagine!

    5 december 2019, Oezbekistan ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Just Imagine: you’ve been traveling with a caravan for weeks now through the seemingly endless desert. You are exhausted, the heat is beating down on you, the water in the sheep bladders is getting low and what is left has lost its freshness. You long for a bath and a restful sleep in a comfortable bed.
    The camels, horses and donkeys are feeling the heat as well, not to mention your slaves, who are not used to those harsh desert conditions. You will need to feed them up nicely once arrived in Khiva. In the condition they are in at the moment you will not achieve a decent price for them on the slave market.
    As you trott along, you suddenly see some city walls arise out of the sand. Not another Fata Morgana! Those things have been stirring up everyone’s hope for the last few days, just to leave you without promise once they disappear into nothingness.
    But no! As you get closer the sturdy walls manifest themselves, rising out of the sand of the surrounding area as you approach it, the anticipation driving you on! You are about to arrive in Khiva!
    And what a city this is! Mosques, Madrasas, the most unusual of Minarets, particularly the fat, turquoise tiled Kalta Minor minaret! And glory of all for the tired travellers, the caravanserais where you can rest for a few days, and rub your hands in anticipation of the riches you will pocket for your strong Russian slaves.
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  • Dornröschen

    10 december 2019, Oezbekistan ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    What I thought was last night I fell asleep in front of this fortress. It was quite well intact. This morning I wake up extremely well rested, look out my window and.... my, I must have slept 100 years. The fortress is all crumbled!!! Oh! But wait!! Where is he??? "Prince! Prince!!! PRIIINCE!"

    PS: this area is called Elliq-Qala "Fifty Fortresses" of which they have unearthed around 20, some of up to 2000 years old. Who knows, perhaps I have even slept longer. But anyhow, the prince is long gone. ..
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  • Five short days in Turkmenistan

    11 december 2019, Turkmenistan ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    For me the last of the Stan countries to travel through is Turkmenistan. As an overlander you can only apply for a transit visa, which will only be issued for a period max five days. If you are lucky that is, as not everybody is issued one at all.
    The border crossing was quite painful this time, long waiting periods between different stations of the process, manually writing all the data, such as car details, passport details into I don't know how many books, getting visa, dog certificates, getting the GPS tracker, so they know you are sticking to the prescribed route ... and waiting and waiting. Then you think you are nearly there, only car inspection left... well think again.... they looked into every nook and cranny, looking for I dont know what and finding some Tramedol on my pharmacy box. Didnt know, you are not allowed to have this. And once they were done, I had to put everything back. All in all this border crossing took 3.5 hrs. Ah well, I have heard of worse.
    To travel south towards Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan and the Iranian border you have to traverse the Karakum Desert. FINALLY I saw my first wild camel herds. They were drinking the rain water collecting in the pot-holed road.
    Christoph and I definitely had to stop and visit the Darvaza gas crater as well aptly named "Door to Hell". This crater is the result of Soviet-era gas exploration and has, for whatever reason been set alight and is burning since the 70s.
    At one point we had to drive through quite deep sand, knowing well that getting out of there the next day might be quite tricky particularly for Christoph's 2WD. Sometimes you have to take risks, we' ll worry about this tomorrow. And it was worth it, the crater was really spectacular, particularly at night.
    Yeah, and the next day. .. I got through the sand on my second try, could back out after getting stuck, but Christoph was not that lucky. Our cars were too far apart for me to pull him out. A Shepard came to our aid, some digging, no luck. How about my maxxtraxx??? Did only get 3 of the 4 locks off, dirt blocked the 4th. That's not good enough, is it? Didn't we get past a drill station on the way out with some trucks parked up, so I drive through the sand again, back to the drill station, asking for help. They cannot take the truck as it supplies the drill with power but two men come with me to dig and push.
    Whilst they are digging and pushing I get to work on my last lock and after a lot of water jetting in with a syringe from my medical kit and poking with a needle from my sewing kit (sometimes the male tools just don't cut it!) I free the lock and with it the maxxtraxx. I am sure this was the last push anyway but my traxx at least came into action and the car was free.
    Our further journey was quite uneventful but very beautiful as the land changed more and more into a dune desert landscape with more herds of camels. These animals really fascinate me!
    Next morning getting up and out for Rex's morning walk it was freezing cold and the desert wore a stunning coat out of ice crystals. I could have walked for hours but we had to get going and get to Ashgabat, as the next day is the last day on our visa.
    Ashgabat, the white, artificial marble city, built for the president but not the people. Bombastic, very white, one of the cleanest cities I think I have ever seen, nearly only white cars driving on huge, wide, quite empty roads, ( the president apparently loves the color white). The traffic and the life on the streets quite in contrast to the busy central Asian car and pedestrian traffic. Here there are neither a lot off cars nor a lot of people in this new part of town. The ones of you who had read Momo by Michael Ende will know what I mean when I say this is what the city reminds me of. The only colourful accents at this bleakest time of the year are the women with their colourful head dresses and the schoolgirls, wearing either green or red long dresses and their little round caps. In addition they all wear their thick long hair in thick, long braids. Must be pretty in summer, when the dresses are not hidden by the winter coats.
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