Elvis Lives Tour

mai 2016 - august 2018
May 2016 - April 2019 Les mer
  • 222fotspor
  • 14land
  • 821dager
  • 1,1kbilder
  • 0videoer
  • 34,9kkilometer
  • 1,2kkilometer
  • Dag 44

    Van Life

    29. juni 2016, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    So 6 weeks in I thought I'd write a post about how it's been going from living in a house to an extreme tiny house (i.e Elvis) - which is smaller than our ensuite bathroom. Well after we'd good willed lots of extraneous stuff, which meant every time we stopped we didn't have to shuttle a lot of crap from one place to another, the space really isn't an issue as we have the great outdoors which in the US is huge. We still could get rid of a bit more stuff but that will happen over time (and in case there's any confusion Phil has more clothes & shoe space than me - he says that's cause he's bigger...)

    The van itself is amazing. We leave the king size bed made up and the memory foam topper is a bit of luxury (our perspective of luxury has changed remarkably fast). Both front seats swivel and we have a 3rd seat that all go around a small table at the front, but we have only used that for a few quick lunches as there are always picnic tables at the camp sites. We have a truckers TV with built in DVD player for the movie nights in (actually normally Game of Thrones) and a computer for Netflix action. We rarely use the loo, but it's a godsend when you need to, and never used the indoor shower but the outdoor one has saved us a few smelly nights. Now we've been in it for a while there are hooks, hangs and attachments everywhere for all the stuff that never quite gets packed away. Phil loves the rear view camera and all the other gadgetry and wires he has hooked up!

    Driving is pretty easy (mainly as Phil is doing almost all of it- but I figure he owes me seeing as I've driven about 60000 miles to & from work over the last 3 and a half years! ) and the van is doing good on 'gas' mileage despite the 5.2l engine. Petrol is just over a quid for a GALLON, but still we have burnt through a bit in the 5,000 miles we have already done. We're keeping an expenditure and living pretty frugally whilst still enjoying ourselves and doing everything there is to do locally.

    The harder issue is staying in touch with friends, family & what is going on in the world - even writing that seems a bit ridiculous as looking back on my travels the first time (many, many moons ago) I didn't even have an email address & my parents were only allowed to worry if they hadn't heard from me for over 3 weeks. When Phil & I went travelling in 2004/2005 we only had a phone which could call & text so Internet cafes were a treat for emailing in aircon for half an hour. Now we get frustrated if we don't have a connection to search for the closest bbq/grocery/campsite/etc (in fact we've already changed mobile providers so we get better coverage....) Anyway we love being able to email, text (WhatsApp) & video chat to people which is what we can do when we have signal, but you really miss it when you don't have it.

    Another thing we've learnt is to always have a (cold) shower when you can. Although the heat we've experienced in the south means as soon as you dry yourself & try to put on suncream you start sweating again. Aircon in the van which we thought we wouldn't use is actually essential most nights - the few nights we've had to boondock (i.e no electricity) in the south have been v sweaty & a bit miserable....

    All in all no regrets so far - it's A LOT better than working! :)
    Les mer

  • Dag 45

    Sweet Sixteen

    30. juni 2016, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We made the short hop to Pedernales Falls State Park as it was a must see in Texas. The falls don't 'fall' very far but it doesn't stop them being impressive, and I don't think I've ever seen a river quite like this. Although it looks very placid when the water runs over the rocks, it's scarily turbulent when it cuts through a channel. We had to cycle downstream before it was safe to swim, and even then if you swam full pelt upstream you still ended up going backwards.

    The next day (30th) was our SIXTEENTH anniversary of when we first met. I'll never forget that day, and I feel blessed that Jo & I have been around the world together and are now lucky enough to spend more time traveling and exploring this amazing country. We spent the morning mountain biking, intermingled with dips in cool pools and rock sliding, and then the afternoon not catching any fish!

    Although you somewhat get used to the heat I can't wait to get into the mountains again.
    Les mer

  • Dag 47

    Mini Uluru

    2. juli 2016, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today's first stop was Enchanted Rock, a massive granite rock sticking out of the limestone surrounds, much like Uluru (Ayres Rock) in a lot of ways. Although it's a decent size it's a bit like an iceberg and under the surface it 4 times the size of Manhattan. What was weird was the way the rock 'exfoliated', shedding layers as it expanded/contracted (not freeze/thaw in this part of the world - see forecast photo).

    We overnighted at Lost Maples State Park, which was a little underwhelming to be honest (we're not short of maples in the north east) and not place to swim/fish (as one is accustomed).

    This weekend is a bit of a nightmare as it's Independence Day on Monday - not just that there's not a lot for a Brit to celebrate, but mainly because every man and his dog are out camping (plus we are never organised enough to know where to book months in advance). We are therefore in the arse end of nowhere (as Jo so succinctly put it) - the highlight being a replica oven - a few miles from the Mexican border. We've already been through one check point to make sure we had no stowaways... it weirdly smells of skunk.... just went past Walter White Ranch Road... all we can think about is Breaking Bad....
    Les mer

  • Dag 48

    Solid As A Rock

    3. juli 2016, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    So we may be in the middle of nowhere with nothing but a few shrubs around, but actually this place is kinda cool.

    This morning we went on the ranger walk down to the 4,500 year old petroglyphs (aka rock paintings). As always this things might be a little hard to see/comprehend but they are amazing to see the first pictures man drew. Life was hard here and they all suffered iron deficiency yet they gave up a serious amount of animal bone marrow to make paint to draw these crazy pictures on the walls. They don't know if they were stoned or trying to communicate or frighten others, but these half man half animal depictions are pretty impressive even now. On the way back we captured one of those circle of life moments with a snake swallowing a still squawking frog.

    Despite the 40C heat we took the bikes out to see some more rock art, albeit it from the top and other side of the canyon but the old Indian dudes had thought about this so drew a 10ft puma. At that point our canyon meets the Rio Grande, and the other side is the land Trump hates so much.

    After immediate cold showers the rest of the day was occupied by trying to find any tiny patch of shade we could. Even though the a/c has been on in the van for hours it's still 35c in there although weirdly that feels cool!

    So from being a mile or two from the border we now have a month to drive 1,500 miles across to the other border to get to Yellowstone in time for our booking (yes, you heard me right - we are actually organised for a change as it books solid months in advance), and they back again! One advantage of being out in the sticks is the stars are fantastic and we've seeb the milky way the past few nights. Looking forward to the mountains though...
    Les mer

  • Dag 50

    Come Around Sundown

    5. juli 2016, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    It's only a couple of degrees cooler a mile high in the Davis Mountains, but it's a blissful difference and we slept without aircon for the first time in weeks.

    After a hearty breakfast of pancakes (from a packet - sorry mum!) we set off up the next door mountain. From the scenic lookout we had an incredible view over the plains and the ridge fencing them in. I felt like I was back in the wild west looking out for indians advancing in the distance.

    A couple more small peaks and we arrived at Fort Davis, one of the pioneer outposts protecting the gold trail running west and keeping those pesky indian/mexicans from complaining about stealing their ancestoral lands. It was an interesting little place to explore for an hour or so but the highlight of the afternoon was the massive ice cream!

    As we were looking to set off back home there was a pretty ominous crack of thunder but fortunately it held off until we were safely back in camp. I think that's the first rain for many weeks, and it only lasted half an hour or so.

    For the evening we headed further up the mountain to the McDonald Observatory where first went to a lecture about how the planets orbit the sun all on the same plane & why the 12 (well actually 13!) zodiac constellations are picked out from the 88 named constellations. We then headed out for the star party where they set up telescopes and we saw Saturn (including rings & 4 moons), Jupiter, Mars, a spiral galaxy 25 million lights years away plus many others. We even saw the hubble telescope pass over head!
    Les mer

  • Dag 52

    If Carlsberg did Caverns...

    7. juli 2016, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    By way of Balmohea, a crystal clear desert spring made into a massive swimming hole by the CCC (Civilian Construction Corps during the great depression), we made our way through the sheer and barren Guadeloupe Mountains & out of Texas into New Mexico.

    We arrived at the Carlsbad Caverns National Park in time to watch the 800,000 bats spiral out from their bat cave for a night of feasting on insects. The next day we walked through the cave's natural entrance & spent hours exploring the biggest cavern in the western hemisphere 800ft below the ground, and still only saw a fraction of it.

    We went from underground wonders to outer space mysterys with a visit to the 'UFO Museum & Research Center' in Roswell - lots of silliness but quite fun and had to be done.

    Our final visit of the day was to a childhood hero of Jo's - Smokey Bear. Although originally created as just as a drawn character when the firefighters found this badly burnt baby bear hanging on to a burning tree they decided he had to be named Smokey and ended up being a living symbol of the longest running advertising campaign.

    Finally on this packed day when we camped on this small ridge surrounded by lava fields ringed by towering mountains we were treated to an awesome display of lightening storms, rainbows and incredible coloured skies. I think we must have taken a hundred photos but they don't do a fraction of justice to what we witnessed
    Les mer

  • Dag 54

    Breaking Good

    9. juli 2016, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We started the day with an early morning run around the lava field, as you do! Then we cruised on up to Albuquerque and finally started getting out of the
    Chihuahuan desert and into the hills. After the amazing petroglyphs in Texas we had high hopes for Petroglyph National Monument, but were pretty underwhelmed by the 400-700 year old graffiti (we are now petroglyph snobs!) - if you see the photos you will understand...

    The CRAZY driving and Friday night traffic put us off a quick stop off in Albuquerque and we overnight in another really nice public campground in the edge of town which even had its own casita. In the morning we decide to drive the looooong way round to Santa Fe but 15 minutes into the drive up into the massive mountains it said the pavement (aka the road to any 'normal' people) stopped, so we thought Elvis wouldn't thank us for that we bailed and ended up on the Interstate (which we have mostly avoided up to now).

    As we were in the middle of the Texan desert for our anniversary we decided to splash out in Santa Fe and have booked into a hotel (to be honest it cost us $30 as I cashed in loyalty points, but don't tell Jo)! We spent the day meandering through the beautiful old city of Santa Fe, with its amazing adobe buildings, buying lots of native Indian jewellery, and enjoying a few cold ones on a terrace overlooking the main square. Tonight we are having a posh meal out and a night on the town.
    Les mer

  • Dag 56

    Da Bomb!

    11. juli 2016, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    After a great meal last night, a long lie in, watching Murray win Wimbledon again, and a massive breakfast we finally got out of our lovely hotel and headed over to the apparently world-renowned Santa Fe International Folk Art Festival, not knowing quite what to expect but everyone in town buzzing about it. It was a really impressive collection of incredible craft work from as far a field as Uzbekistan, Phillipines & Brazil. The silverwork from Laos that we couldn't afford when we were there 10 years ago and it was quarter the price was difficult to to resist (but we did).

    Next stop was Bandelier National Park. We knew there were cliff dwellings but weren't prepared for the amazing homes hollowed in the rock as we descended down from the mesa plateau. The photos don't do it justice, but are still pretty impressive.

    We saw the building in Santa Fe where the men recruited to work on the top secret atomic bomb entered, unaware to what they were to work on, so we visited Los Alamos which is where they were secretly sent. This is being turned into a brand new National Park so unfortunately we couldn't see much, other than a beautiful if probably rather boring (not unlike Princeton!) town perched up in the hills.

    We then drove onto the Enchanted Circle scenic drive that starts at Taos, a small artsy town nestled in the hills. We were really tempted by an amazing painting of an Indian warrier, and know we are going to regret doing the right thing and not buying it.

    We camped on a small peninsula of mesa mountaintop between Rio Grande & Red River - another incrediblely magical place to spend a night.
    Les mer

  • Dag 57

    Dune! Sweet!

    12. juli 2016, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Headed north into Colorado (our 15th state on this trip!) to the Great Sand Dunes National Park. They are pretty impressive from afar but after we'd set up camp and we walked into them in Kate afternoon as the shadows were forming... OMG words can't describe how incredible they are. We took hundreds of photos - hopefully some do them justice. And Phil had a lot of fun throwing himself down any steep bit he could find!Les mer

  • Dag 60

    Peaky Blinding!

    15. juli 2016, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    As we were winding our way along the road we came across an unexpected National Park for a petrified redwood forest. A volcano send down 2 massive lahars (mud flows) that covered some ancient redwoods. The 15ft or so of tree bases slowly petrified by absorbing minerals, and when they excavated the stumps they found solid rock. Pretty impressive sight.

    After being v excited to see our first herd of elk, we camped in the lovely Mueller State Park. In the morning we scrambled to find a campsite for the following night on our way to an 2-day attempt on Pikes Peak. It might only be #31 of the 53 14ers (14,000 footers) in Colorado, but it has one of the biggest altitude changes and we didn't know quite what to expect. We grabbed the last stop in the car park and set off up the Barr Trail. It was a pretty relentless up for most of the 3,800 feet up over 6.5 miles but we made it to our overnight stop at Barr Camp nice and early. We grabbed a private mezzanine bed in the main cabin, and whiled away a few hours (re-)learning card games. About half 3 it all went dark then started 'grappling', which I assume is the verb of a new word we learnt for hard hail-like snow.

    Despite some people setting off at 5am, we were the last ones up, and after a hearty mountain pancakes breakfast then set off about 7:15 up the remaining 3,900 feet to go. It was a beautiful trail climbing up out of the valley, then through the forest, then up to the rocky summit. The patches of snow made a mistake e change from the 40+C (100+F) of the past many weeks. There were marmots popping up onto the rocks and whistling each other, and one particularly cheeky one posed for some great snaps. Despite the altitude we charged up for the 14,115 ft summit in time for some late morning freshly cooked donuts! At least there are benefits to a road and the cog railway for getting people to the top.

    As you would expect down was pretty easy going (relatively speaking!) and we swung by the camp to pick up our big rucksack and then down the full 7,700 foot back to van late afternoon. 18 miles and 10,000 elevation change is a heck of a lot, and Jo's feet were in pretty bad shape once the boots came off.

    Fortunately it wasn't far to the camp site but we were shocked that a commercial RV site doesn't have a loo block, let alone a showers. Thankfully the camp hosts were really nice and let us borrow theirs in their full size RV trailer - nice to see how the other half lives with about the same floor span as our UK home!

    The next night we ended up parked just off the road in a National Forest, as the official camp sites are full but you can camp anywhere you like unless told otherwise and we found a beautiful spot near a strong stream that cannot have contained any fish (or I really need a fishing lesson!). We had a lazy morning driving over some stupendous 11k ft mountain passes and browsing little alpine towns before ending up in Golden Gate Canyon SP, just outside Denver.
    Les mer