France Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

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  • Day 2

    Tag 1 - Der Esel bin ich…

    May 7 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Ein weiser Australier (also eigentlich der Australier von gestern im Transportbus) hat mal gesagt:
    Jedem passiert auf dem Weg irgendetwas. JEDEM!
    Okay, aber doch nicht gleich am ersten Tag, oder? Tja, mir offenbar doch. Dann hab ich’s ja jetzt wenigstens schon hinter mir.

    Heute Morgen hab ich mir beim Packen extra Zeit gelassen. Ab 9:00 Uhr wollte ich meinen Koffer im Transportbüro abgeben – der sollte nämlich direkt nach Santiago de Compostela geschickt werden. Da sind ein paar Sachen drin, die ich jetzt nicht brauche. Beziehungsweise: Dort dann schon. Nach fünf Wochen will ja selbst ich Modemuffel mal was anderes anziehen.
    Um 9:15 Uhr stand ich also vor dem Büro von „Express Bourricot“. Witzigerweise heißt das übersetzt so viel wie „Esel-Express“. Der Esel war aber eindeutig ich. Das Büro öffnet nämlich nicht, wie ich mir im Vorfeld notiert hatte, um 9:00 Uhr – es SCHLIESST um 9:00 Uhr. Geöffnet ist von 7:00 bis 9:00 Uhr. Und natürlich: Niemand mehr da.
    Das ist wieder typisch ich. Da plane ich alles minutiös und stehe dann wie der sprichwörtliche Esel vor der geschlossenen Tür. Was nun? Die Nummer, die am Büro klebte, habe ich angerufen – keine Antwort. Klar, draußen hörte ich das Telefon zwar klingeln, aber drinnen war ja nun niemand mehr da, der hätte abnehmen können.
    Zurück in die Pension konnte ich den Koffer auch nicht bringen. Erstens, weil die Pension komplett kontaktlos funktioniert – Türen per Code, nie jemanden gesehen, keiner da. Und zweitens, weil mein Zugangscode schon gelöscht war.
    Ich kürze das Drama mal ab: Ich bin tatsächlich die erste Etappe mit meinem zwölf Kilo Rucksack auf dem Rücken UND einem acht Kilo Kabinen-Trolley in der Hand gelaufen. Am Anfang kam ich mir schon ziemlich bescheuert vor, aber hier auf dem Camino gibt’s echt nichts, was die Leute nicht schon hundertmal gesehen hätten. Wahrscheinlich sogar einen bekloppten Deutschen, der mit Rucksack UND Koffer den Jakobsweg läuft.
    Mit dem Koffer durch den Ort zu laufen, war noch okay. Aber dann wechselte der Weg. Sagen wir mal so: Schotterwege, Waldwege, Wiesen und Berge – alles nicht gerade die natürliche Umgebung für Kofferrollen. Wenn ich jetzt darüber nachdenke, wie ich ausgesehen haben muss, muss ich echt lachen.
    Also: Tragen. Ich wusste nicht, wie schwer acht Kilo werden können. Spoiler: Sehr, sehr schwer!
    Lange Rede, kurzer Sinn: Ich bin jetzt in Valcarlos in einer ziemlich netten Pension angekommen – und dank der Hilfe von Alejandra, meiner bezaubernden Herbergsmutter, wird der Koffer morgen endlich abgeholt.
    Meinen allerersten Camino-Tag hatte ich mir irgendwie anders vorgestellt. Aber egal, dann ist morgen eben Tag 1b…

    Fazit des Tages: Australier haben immer recht.

    Ach so, ich bin übrigens jetzt in Spanien. ¡HOLA!
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  • Day 14–16

    The Camino Provides

    May 5 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today we travelled from Bordeaux to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPDP). The train trip was relaxing and being good tourists in France, we’d bought baguettes for our lunch. We were excited to finally be getting to the town where we start our Camino, and despite our train trip from Bayonne to SJPDP being replaced by a bus, we were all in high spirit.

    SJPDP is a beautiful town. It far exceeded my expectation and the buzz of pilgrims arriving from all over the world is intoxicating. We walked from the train station with a young Swedish girl who was travelling alone. She was super friendly and was happy to have someone to walk with, as were we.

    First things first was to visit the Pilgrims office to register (however we had already done this in Bordeaux) and get some information on the walk. We joined the long queue and chatted enthusiastically with the other pilgrims. Naturally there were other Australians in the queue, including a very independent, interesting woman from Cloncurry, travelling solo.

    After having a coffee to warm up (it’s cold here), we headed to our accomodation, a short 10 minutes walk from the centre. How happy we now are with the simple things we take for granted. Our home for two days is more spacious than our apartment in Bordeaux. We have both a dishwasher AND a washing machine! Sheer luxury!

    We capped off the day with a pilgrim’s meal at a nearby bistro. Chicken and mashed potato…it was exactly what we needed. The Camino provided a perfect start for us.
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  • Day 1

    Camino D1 St Jean de Pied de Port

    May 3 in France ⋅ 🌩️ 24 °C

    Left @6am, many thanks to Nigel of Wards Taxi's direct to Brussels Midi for the Eurostar to Paris, Uber to Montparnasse, drove past Notre Dame, a quick breakfast prior to boarding the train to Bayonne, finally a coach transfer to SJPP, safe arrival @3pm. Perfect journey, no stress. Evening drinks & dinner by the river, perfect with some local beer and fresh fish. Fab start🙏.Read more

  • Day 5

    Paris to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

    April 30 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today had me thinking “surely nothing else can go wrong” way too many times. Our first train broke down, then on our second train there was a “problem at the station” which caused all the city trains to stop. We managed to uber and make it to our country train with minutes to spare. Are you thinking, that should be the end of the disasters right? You’d be wrong! There was a fire near the tracks so the train operator had to get out AND WALK the track to make sure we could get through (okay his day might be worse than ours). This made us 30 minutes late for our final train causing us to miss it and have to catch the only bus left.

    Despite all the stress we still managed to have a lot of laughs, play cards and had a couple of beers with new friends Susan and George.
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  • Day 3

    Day 1 - The first step

    April 28 in France ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    St Jean Pied Du Port to Refuge Orisson
    8.2km
    Bags got collected from the Air BnB and I bought some rations at the local store, then off to the starting line. 800km is about 1 million steps, so the first step through the Porte d’Espagne was memorable. My great trek has started!
    Even though town was quiet with not too many pilgrims around, a snaking line of bright colours soon settled into a rhythm along the path.
    Feeling really grateful to have this opportunity and blessing, feeling nervous and excited about what’s to come, feeling uncertain about my ability to complete, and feeling curious about all the wonderful sights, sounds, people and experiences over the coming days.
    Moments of the day - The first step of 1 million, seeing the mist in the valley of the Pyrenees foothills, and watching the souring eagles so close I could hear the wind passing over their wings.
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  • Day 4

    St. Jean Pied de Port to Borda

    April 28 in France ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    Well, the day I feared most was not as hard as I feared, thanks in large part to Brian Paysour's hard work preparing me. On my way to the Pilgrims' Gate and Bridge, I paused again in the Cathedral to see Jesus' arms open in welcome. On the bridge, I looked back to see Mary and Jesus above blessing my journey. And I was on my way!

    I walked alone most of the day so I could set my own pace and enjoy the scenery, but I saw many of the same people over and over as our paths criss-crossed. A trio from Minneapolis were especially friendly.

    As the fog burned away, the sun shone relentlessly. Luckily it was only in the lower 70s and there was a nice breeze, because the way went straight up all day without a moment's rest. Much of the path was along a roadway, but part went up a very muddy and wet rocky path. I took frequent pauses to take in God's handiwork and let my heart rate come down. I kept coming back to the phrase from Morning Prayer, "his hands have molded the dry land." The only sounds were the breeze in the trees, the songs of birds, the bleating of distant sheep as they shook their cowbells, and the occasional footsteps of fellow pilgrims. True bliss.

    As I tired, I kept thinking of something Ashby Blakely quotes at funerals: "to be dead to the body is to be alive to God." And I get his point, as it pertains to physical death. But as I began to feel the effort and the abilities my body was unlocking that were new to me, I felt that the more alive I became in the body, the more alive I became to the God who created me to move and adapt in this way. Quite an experience.

    When I got to Borda, the last albergue before Roncesvalles some seventeen km further, I sat with a group of four other women to wait for them to open so I could beg for a last-minute room. Would you believe that of the five of us THREE were Episcopal priests on sabbatical! What are the chances?!

    There were no beds to be begged at Borda, so I got a ride the 8km back down to St. Jean for another night in the charming Albergue I stayed in last night. In the morning I'll ride back up to Borda and walk from there back down the Pyranees to Roncesvalles, finally crossing into Spain. For now, good night. I think I'll sleep well!

    Steps: 17,362
    Active minutes: 364
    Distance: 7.32 miles
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  • Day 3

    St. Jean Pied de Port

    April 27 in France ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    I had an amazing night's sleep and a fabulous breakfast before getting on the bus to St. Jean Pied de Port, the official starting point for the Camino Frances. I couldn't stop the tears as we headed up the mountain and I realized this was really, really happening. After years of dreaming and praying, my Camino was finally starting.

    I checked in at the Pilgrims' Office and received my first official stamp of the journey. Then I explored the town, going down to the river Nive and taking a picture of the Pilgrims' Bridge over which I'll depart in the morning. I made my way to the Cathedral de Notre Dame, a beautiful Gothic Church. The main altar and stained glass were stunning. I was so moved by the side altar with the tabernacle (aumbry) and lit candle signifying the presence of bead and wine blessed at Easter that I knelt and prayed for a while, thanking God for this opportunity and asking him to be with me. Then I moved to the other side chapel, with it's statue of Mary holding Jesus with his arms open wide in welcome. I was reminded of this morning's reading, "although the doors of the room were locked, Jesus came and stood among them." Nothing can stop God's presence. I lit a candle for all of you, praying for so many of you by name.

    I'm staying in a charming albergue called La Lievre at Le Tortue, the Hair and the Tortoise. All over are reminders not to hurry but to enjoy the journey. The hosts Cat and Manu are so welcoming. I'm in a room with two other women and one man. Tonight we'll all share a meal together over one big table, no doubt getting to know one another.

    One checked in, I went to explore the Citadel, built in the 14th Century as an outpost to protect France from Spanish invasion. Now it's an historic landmark and home to a school. The views over St. Jean are stunning and well worth the climb (the stairs at Your Best Body got nothin' on these steep stone stairs!).

    I found a charming bar with WiFi and worshipped with Incarnation over a glass of the dry rose this region is known for. A great day!

    Steps: 9,525 (not bad for a rest day!)
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  • Day 3

    Day 3 Pamplona/St. Jean Pied de Port

    April 24 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Start of day 3 Thursday April 24th left Pamplona at 10am by bus to St. Jean Pied de Port where i will start my walk. The weather is nice, cool and great for walking.
    Pamplona is a beautiful city. This is where there is the Running of the Bulls in July.
    People are very friendly and even if they didn’t speak English they tried to help. It’s a typical Spanish city with lots of Churches, restaurants squares and monuments very lively and lovely!
    Arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port at 12:00 but can’t check in till 3:00 pm. Met and had coffee with a couple of ladies from Australia. They aren’t staying in the same Albergue as me but Im sure I will see them again.
    It is very pretty here and there are so many pilgrims that are starting their walk tomorrow so I won’t be alone!!! Tonight I will be having dinner with other pilgrims that are also staying here.
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  • Day 4

    1st stop - Orisson,

    April 24 in France ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The 1st steps of our pilgrimage began at 0645 this morning.
    3 hours and 2200 feet of elevation gain later to a welcome stop for food and coffee at Refuge Orisson.
    Today’s walk was as steep as I think we’ve ever walked for such a long distance- 4823 feet elevation gain over 16 miles.
    It was definitely a test of endurance and will. Thankfully, it was cool and foggy the first 2/3 of it and beautiful, sunny and blue sky the last. Proud to say we made it. I’ve been told todays crossing the Pyrenees is the most arduous of The Way. We will see.
    I dunno though, 9 hours folded up like a taco shell on the flight to Madrid runs a close second .
    Good night!
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  • Day 1

    sanitjean-orissons 8

    April 22 in France ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Sveglia doccia colazione
    Dalle idee all'azione
    Senza indugio o incertezze
    Sono pronta per l'ebrezza!!
    Oggi è dura, la strada è erta
    Piove forte, sono incerta
    Quanti dubbi in un momento
    Ohi la mente, che tormento!!!!Read more

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