fast Lascabanes - Lauzerte

Tag 5 - 31 km
Morgens um halb 9 wurde ich am Aufnahmeort wieder ausgesetzt. Weiter auf dem schattigen Weg mit den Sprüchen, rechts und links, von denen ich kein einzigen Verstand.
Nach 1,5 StundenRead more
Tag 5 - 31 km
Morgens um halb 9 wurde ich am Aufnahmeort wieder ausgesetzt. Weiter auf dem schattigen Weg mit den Sprüchen, rechts und links, von denen ich kein einzigen Verstand.
Nach 1,5 Stunden war ich dann endlich in Lascabanes. Der Ort war wirklich eine einzige Baustelle. Nach der obligatorischen Besichtigung der Kirche ging’s dann weiter durch Felder und Wiesen. Das Wetter war sonnig, aber nicht wirklich warm. Morgens hatte er mit gerade mal 5 Grad begonnen. Bis zur Pause in Montcuq 4,5h später war die Temperatur dann auf 18 Grad gestiegen. Angenehm zum Wandern. Trotzdem schwierig keinen Sonnenbrand in der Sonne zu bekommen. Die Nase ist wie jedes Jahr stark gefährdet.
In der prallen Sonne ging es weiter. Inzwischen war kein Wölkchen mehr am Himmel und die Temperatur stieg auf 20 Grad. Leider ging es auch über das offene Feld, und so gab es nach 2 Stunden noch mal eine kurze Pause im Schatten, um zu trinken und sich zu organisieren Jacke aus, Gesicht noch einmal mit Sonnencreme eingecremt, und natürlich die Oberarme nicht vergessen. Den Strich von letztem Jahr sieht man immer noch.
Also weiter über Wiesen und durch lichte Wälder und irgendwann habe ich dann tatsächlich den ersten Esel entdeckt. Leider wollte er nicht mit mir reden. Strenggenommen war es schon der zweite an diesem Tag. Der erste war mir kurz vor Lascabanes begegnet. Eine Familie hat ihn als Gepäckträger an einem Strick durch die Gegend geführt. Als ich aus dem Wald und um die Ecke kam sah ich Lauzerte. Es lag auf einem Hügel! Natürlich. War ja klar. Also nochmal den Berg hochkeuchen. Oben kam ich dann auch mit rotem Kopf und völlig außer Atem an.Read more
Tag 4 - 28,4 km
Weiter ging’s 1 Stunde früher als gestern bei strahlendem Sonnenschein mit kleinen Wölkchen. Heute sollte es trocken bleiben.
Über steinige Wege ging es zuerst bergab, am ausgetrockneten Bach vorbei und dann auf einer steinigen Ebene entlangzustolpern. Der Regen der letzten Tage hat teilweise große Pfützen hinterlassen die irgendwie umschifft werden mussten. Das letzte Stück Richtung Cahors auf einer kleinen Straße steil bergab.
Cahors ist endlich wieder ein größerer Ort, und da es kurz vor 12:00 Uhr war, habe ich mir zum Mittagessen etwas in der Bäckerei besorgt.
Frisch gestärkt ging es weiter durch den Ort. Durch die Altstadt zur großen Kathedrale und von dort weiter mit dem Weg. Über die Pont Valentré, eine schöne alte Brücke mit Türmen. Beim Aufstieg gegenüber kam ich mir ein bisschen vor wie in den Alpen. Ungleichmäßige in den Stein gehauene Stufen ohne Geländer oder sonstige Absicherung. Immerhin kam ich schnell voran und war Ruck zuck auf Höhe der Türme der Brücke.
Bei bestem Wanderwetter ging es über asphaltierte Nebenstraßen Richtung Ziel. Kurz nach einem Treffen mit Mann und Versorgungsfahrzeug bog der Weg wieder auf kleine Wege ab. Es ging über Stock und Stein mal hoch mal runter. Leider waren die Wege an manchen Stellen furchtbar matschig oder überschwemmt von den Regengüssen der letzten Tagen. So musste ich immer mal wieder langsam durch oder aussenrum.
Der Mann inspirierte so lange den Zielort der eigentlich nur eine große Baustelle war. Nirgends ein Parkplatz für den Kasten. Nachdem es immer später wurde, wurde ich dann ca. 5km vor dem Ziel vom Mann eingesammelt und wir fuhren zurück nach Labastide-Narnhac in dem es sogar offizielle Stellplätze gab.
Wie immer folgte ein leckeres Abendessen und eine frühe Bettruhe.Read more
Am Morgen traf ich mich mit Fabian und Jean zum Kaffee - danach hab ich mir (endlich!) mal ne französische SIM- Karte gekauft - nun bin ich mehrheitlich online😉
Wollte das eigentlich schon in Le Puy erledigen, habs dann aber wieder vergessen.
Und nun wurde es wirklich mühsam, da ich hier im Apartment kein Internet habe und etwas Angst vor den Kosten habe😉
Am Nachmittag gabs Sightseeing, Jean hat mich noch ne Weile begleitet.
Meinem Knie gehts immer noch nicht so wirklich gut. Daher werde ich mich weiterhin etwas auf die Städte hier konzentrieren und morgen entweder nach Bordeaux oder Toulouse fahren. Mal schauen was einfacher ist!Read more
Heute morgen hatte ich mich zum Kaffee mit Jean und dem Japaner getroffen, danach musste ich schauen, wie ich nach Cahors komme. Figeac hatte ich so langsam gesehen und da es meinem Knie noch nicht wirklich gut geht, wollte ich in die nächste Stadt fahren.
Zum Glück gibts hier nen Bus, der sogar richtig günstig ist (€ 2.- für 50 km).
Jean hat das gleiche Problem wie ich und kann auch erst mal nicht laufen. Daher hat er sich gleich angeschlossen und so nahmen wir zusammen am Nachmittag den Bus nach Cahors.
Ich hab noch nicht so viel von der Stadt gesehen, aber ich glaube es ist ne echt schöne Stadt🙂 morgen werde ich dann mal Sightseeing mache 😉Read more
Das sieht ja nach ner richtig fröhlichen, sympathischen Runde aus! Hoffe, dein Knie bessert sich bald mal!!!! ✊✊ [Dein Mamalein]
Traveler Hoffe dim Chnü gohts bald besser. Hesch scho öbis ondernoh gäge Schmärze?
Nach 700km zu Fuß, 32 Tagen, davon 27 zu Fuß, 3 Tagen Pause, und 2 Reisetagen (morgen dann 3) habe ich viel über mich gelernt. Ich wollte alleine sein und bin es am Ende selten geblieben. Desserts und Käse im ländlichen Frankreich sind fantastisch, aber die Infrastruktur stinkt zum Himmel. Rocamadour ist nicht nur ein Käse, manchmal ist weniger mehr und man braucht circa jeden zehnten Tag eine Pause. Etappenlaengen waren zwischen 10km und 38km lang. 10kg Gepäck sind okay für 30 Tage Chemin. Man kann durchaus Handyzeiten von unter 1,5 Stunden pro Tag haben. Mein Credential reicht noch für einen Besuch auf dem Camino der Norte. Von 35 Grad bis Schnee haben wir jedes Wetter mitgenommen. Ich habe viele Menschen besser kennengelernt, vor allem mich selbst. À la vie, qui nous unit!Read more
We welcome you with open arms, G.O.A.T.s of Mount Olympus.
“Meet me at midnight”, the opening lines for Taylor’s best album (in my personal opinion). Fitting, then, that it is 00:03 as I take to my phone to write.
Today was fairly hectic, the plan was to walk for half an hour to catch a 1h30 ferry, get a bus for 3 hours, a metro for 1h30, before arriving at the airport to catch a 2h30 flight. Once we arrive in France, we would drive for around two hours until we arrived home.
So far, so good!
We woke up and lay around a bit (or at least I did, Mum and Dad were packing and preparing away). There was, in fact, nary a need to rush, since we only had to be out of our place at 11.
So I didn’t rush. At all.
I chilled in bed, packed leisurely, ate breakfast while reading… basically like my holiday was beginning and not ending.
At eleven, we were ready, and so began our stroll for the last time down the streets of Greece, with a view of the Aegean Sea. It still hadn’t quite hit me that this was it, that we were leaving. Strange things, holidays. You think they’re going to last forever when you’re in them, and once they’re over, it’s gone, never to exist again. Poetic.
We hung out in town since we were a smidgen early, and filmed our final transition (follow us @alolliru!!), before heading to the port. After a twenty minute or so wait (during which my sisters and I planned our future matching tattoos), I spotted the boat at a distance, and so we all got up to begin our battle for the last time.
The wait was excruciating, and in an effort to not repeat the problem of last time I was filming the entire time. The extensive documentary ft. the after-battle interview will be out tomorrow, of course.
Filled with purpose and big boots to fill from her last time, Lily just about ran, so fast was her walking. Weaving through crowds, she was at one moment neck and neck with a similarly motivated young woman. But a fatal flaw was made on that woman’s part, leading to Lily being, once more, the first to make it onto the boat, victorious, triumphant, still striding forward as the rest of us fought for a place in the crowd.
It was, needless to say, art. I’m so glad that our final battle as comrades was this one, a tale of triumph and honour and surviving the Great War.
The ride itself was uneventful. I began to edit our videos and some transitions, and thought about how I would write my blog today. Midnights themed is not easy, there isn’t really a recurring theme other than that of teetering between a breakup and saving the relationship, so really not applicable to this day. I did not reach a conclusion.
Luckily, I realised that what made it Midnights themed was the fact that I am writing this at midnight, now closer to 1am but in Greece it would be 2am, but still. Many songs from her 10th album were written at night, the thoughts that one thinks when one is tired and has no filter, when you learn your true thoughts, then?
This is the case today, what I am writing is what I am actually thinking in real time. Lucky you!!
However, perhaps not. In fact, maybe going with a theme of Taylor Swift albums may make my blog less interesting, since I no longer strive for comedy or even personality in my writing, instead choosing to focus on songs and feelings and moments. Is this a bad approach? I don’t know, but I assume that if I weren’t a Taylor fan, and I were reading the blog, I would be saddened by the change. However it is easier to write since I am not funny by nature so trying to make jokes is not an easy task, really.
Anyway.
After we left the ferry for the last time (having for once sat on a different level, and it was unanimously decided that it was a better level despite it being the same just smaller), we boarded our bus.
Some seating complications were had in the beginning, though they were quickly resolved. Lily and I watched some Supernatural, a show on prime that is better than it seems at first, (yes mum, it is). However once we began to get closer to Athens, we took a break, mentally preparing for the long metro ride ahead of us.
Once we arrived, it took some time to get the tickets, the guy behind the desk was a bit slow to act. And so we watched as two trains went by, the second leaving seconds before we were allowed through the gates.
There was then, of course, a fifteen minute wait until the next one. Because of course.
Mum began to get annoyed, worried that we would miss our flight. We did not, of course. We were hours in advance.
We got on the metro, stayed for five stops, then switched to a different line (it is worth noting that a train that we were not taking came before ours, and dad figured out where the door would be, and stood there, so when our train arrived, we were the first ones on, and got good spots, it was pretty cool), this one was sixteen stops, the distance seeming depressingly longer and longer between each one.
And it seems my senses are still perceptive, because this was in fact the case.
But Allegra and I managed to amuse ourselves. We decided to see if we could hold hands for all sixteen stops, which we did.
It was kind of gross, because we both got really sweaty palms, so the sweat was intermingling.
Ewwww it’s kind of icky to think about.
But sixteen stops (and some excessive hand wiping) later, we were at the airport.
After check ins and bag drop offs and security checks (I got patted down because the sensor went off, and, as one does when this happens, I began to wonder if maybe I had forgotten that I had a bomb or something on my person and began to get really stressed), we were able to relax for a bit at the airport, getting (pretty bad) food, browsing books in WHSmith, and buying alcohol for the neighbours.
At a suitable time, we strolled down to the departure gates, filmed the end of our last transition, took cool photos with boarding passes, and then got on the plane.
It was pretty good looking, Lily and I sat down next to each other, with mum, all was good, I was settled in, when disaster (or more like slight annoyance) struck.
Some kid was travelling alone, and protocol calls for them to clear all the seats next to him. So Lily and I got moved to the back so this one kid who was about the twins age could get three seats to himself! Honestly, if I didn’t get so annoyed at Lily for blaming the patriarchy at every inconvenience and thus discrediting the cause, I would blame the patriarchy!
My question is, why couldn’t the kid have the two seats at the back of the plane with no window, right next to the air hostesses gossiping and the bathroom that people went to twice a minute apparently?? I mean seriously, we did book those seats 🙄.
Friggin kids.
But Lily and I made the best of it, and though the turbulence was annoying, we were distracted by Supernatural and magazines. So it was okay.
The food, however, wasn’t, consisting of a sandwich that was really pretty bad, with either sweet falafels or sweet sauce, but in a bad way, and a buttery biscuit. I did get tomato juice, which is top tier though.
I think I want tomato juice for my birthday. Take notes!!
Three hours or so later, we landed in our home country of France. Collecting baggage, showing passports, and then we’re done.
Just… go live the rest of your life, I guess. Have fun!
That’s when it really hit me, that Greece was over. Done. I’m not going back, at least for a while. I began to write this blog to take my thoughts off of that as we waited for the shuttle, but it didn’t much help.
My tiredness lead me to try and talk about it, and my confusion at time itself. I mean really, as I said to Tate, when you’re in the moment, nothing else matters because it’s not conceivable (at least to my mind) that it’s ever actually going to end.
Theoretically, I know that it will be over, but in my mind, it’s just “you’re doing this thing now, so how could it ever be over? It won’t be.”
Except it always is, but it doesn’t matter because something else is happening already!!
So that’s basically what I rambled on to Tate about until the conversation shifted to bad school systems that need a reform, and also to sweet sandwiches.
We arrived at our car, packed it up, and drove off. It felt slightly anticlimactic, I felt melancholy (in the theme of Midnights, I guess), but as we drove onto the motorway of Toulouse, Teenage Dirtbag by I don’t know who was put on, and Allegra, dad and I sang along, even though I don’t actually know enough words, which did lift my spirits. It was no Mr. Brightside by the Killers though, I’m still hoping that one will play because I actually love it and we are listening to dad’s “Big D Rocks” playlist, so there’s hope yet!
I’m going to end this blog here because that is where I’m at in my day, because it’s 1:30 am, because I’m so tired and because the driving is making my typing go crazy and my eyes are too tired to pick out the mistacos.
Honorary mention today goes to Mum and Dad for organising such a bopping trip, Greece was 10/10, I’m glad we did this, and I had a great time, elaboration on that tomorrow.
Midnights is a perfect album, I recommend listening, especially to my personal faves, The Great War, Lavender Haze, Would’ve Could’ve Should’ve, Dear Reader, and Hits Different.
Peace right out.
Cheeeeese!!Read more
Traveler For this that have Instagram and if you want to see the videos you will need to follow the account to see these.
After a lovely night in our medieval apartment in Cahors we had a hunt for a bakery that served breakfast. The Plodicus led the charge through the morning drizzle. After a few false starts we hit gold with the great smells of coffee and fresh pastries. As we tucked into these delights our friendly Dutch/Estonian couple spotted us and joined us for breakfast. They had finished their walk and were returning home tomorrow.
As we returned to the apartment to collect our rucksacks and head for the station. Today was a rest day from walking but we were hopping along our route to Moissac - a time saving device to ensure we finish our pilgrimage in the brexit defined 90 days!!
Simon has named our sat nav Trevor and he did a sterling job getting us to Gare du Cahors.
So we had 2 short train journeys before arriving into the ancient town of Moissac.
Simon became exasperated when an Austrian/German woman latched onto us. He is now feeling a little uncharitable about this! Why and how - he says- do these people appear out of the ether?
After marching twice around the town we settled on a small pizza place for lunch. The sun was in and out the clouds throughout the afternoon.
We then headed for the Abbey which has many links with the Abbey in Cluny - our starting point. It also reminded us on a smaller scale of the Djomo in Florence. We were accompanied by a large tourist group of Spanish people. We lit 2 candles for you all so feel the blessings coming your way.
We headed for tonight’s accommodation at 3.30 to be greeted by our hostess Veronique. A former teacher turned guest house owner. She has an amazing house with a beautiful garden - and I think we are the only guests tonight. She has recommended a trip to the canal quarter of the town this evening. We shall see …Read more
Traveler
Fab trains, loved the sloping floors and the fact they leave and arrive in time
Traveler Have just done a massive read of your journeys so far. Impressions: deluge rain, rain rain, soggy feet, indomitability - the way you keep going, whatever, lots of gorgeous countryside, lovely and not so easy people on the trail, language learning en route and always a sigh of relief and joy when you get good food. Thanks for the story telling and the pics.
Breakfast started at 6am, and was nearly outside our room, but we heard nothing. Perhaps because no-one went: they all appeared when we appeared around 7:40. Cereal, bread and jam, yoghurt, an urn of coffee, hot water for tea (but only herbal or green tea available) and apple juice.
We dropped our bags off for the beloved La Malle Postale for the last time, and left the Gite around 8:10 on our last day (for now) of walking. It was only 18km to Cahors, but Cahors is more than a village and we wanted to see it.
No rain, and I wore only two T-shirts as it was supposed to start at 10 deg and be 23 deg by midday. Unfortunately the sun could not dry out the mud in minutes, so there was lots, but seemingly less, as there were always tracks around the frequent stretches of mire at the start.
It was relatively flat, so no sudden panoramas or changes of landscape, but walking in sunshine was a wonderful change. I could understand why people might want to go for weeks on end. It was no trouble to stop anywhere, look anywhere, sit anywhere or wear normal clothes. I think the biggest difference was the sense that one did not have to wait for the hotel at the end of the day to sit, relax, be warm and dry off without needing to manage coats and jackets and being crowded in.
There were a few farms but no villages on the way, but we stopped around 12 at a farmhouse with a huge lawn that had tables and chairs in the sun and served tea and coffee as the chooks scratched around in the grass,.. and only one person there. She was a lady from north of France who had driven to Conques, walked for a week, and would get the bus from Cahors to Conques the next morning and drive 8hrs home. No wonder the locals like doing the trip section by section!
After a coffee (me), local cake (both) and huge glass of mint-syrup water (Anne - GI cordial in a different world?), we went on, then stopped for lunch (bread and cheese) under some trees, sitting on rocks and hearing the occasional cuckoo. It is surprising how monotonous their calls can be! The phrase "going cuckoo" has a new meaning! We had passed quite a few people during the morning, but no-one went past as we sat there, and we did not see anyone on the last 45 mins or so into Cahors.
Cahors is a biggish town/small; city with a medieval old town. We walked in by crossing the Lot River, then around to the old stone bridge on the West (c. 15 mins), and to the hotel. Arrived there at 2pm, and luggage had arrived but room not yet ready... We were able to use a spare admin space to open cases and grab the bag of laundry, then walked into the old town to a laundromat. We thought we were inconspicuous in a small French laundromat, but St Craig of Kiama and Liz walked past and saw us. Washing done (sort of - unlike in Japan, the addition of soap is possible, but we had not realised). We walked back to the hotel (The Brit Hotel), had a shower and walked through the old town before meeting the aforesaid saint and spouse in a brasserie on a square in town.
Cahors is not as picturesque as Figeac, but has the same alleys and old buildings, with a magnificent church and other old buildings. There is an area called the amphitheatre: when excavating for a carpark, the remains of an amphitheatre were found, even though there is no known record of it.
Today (Wednesday) is a national holiday, as is tomorrow (Ascension Day), and half of France seems to be taking Friday off, so it was a large holiday crowd sitting around in about 20 deg with the sun shining until 730 or so. St Craig and Liz start the next 3 weeks of walking tomorrow. They headed off, and we had dinner in one of the few small cafes that was still open in the side-streets. A New Zealander ran it, and specialised in exotic burgers, like the Burger Bach place Nico once took us to in Durham. Not French, but very good. We talked for quite a time with him about French food laws, marketing and France.
The Brit Hotel looks like a Russian primary school from the outside, and the stairs and public spaces look the same, but the room is very bright, very clean and quite large. 1. Good shower and a bathroom with shelf space, too. 2. The wifi is as bad as the outside would imply. 3 No tea or coffee (I am beginning to appreciate the simple highway motels between Sydney and Mission Beach, perhaps because for the first time ever we are arriving at places in the early afternoon). 4 Excellent breakfast…and no need to pack bags before 8am. Our train leaves at 9:30, and the station is 3 minutes away.
38,179 steps, 30.5km and 35 flights … so about 417km since 21 April, and 1,288 flights of stairs in 18 days, according to my app.Read more
Bis vor die Grenze scheint es,als habe ich heute die Hälfte der 3. Etappe erreicht… und vermutlich sind es die Tage auch bald die Hälfte der Kilometer generell bis ans Ende der Welt, da wo mein Ziel hingeht.Read more
Traveler Ja wes zittlech längt… würd gärn bis as meer, wo dr wäg eifach ufhört weisch 😉 dört wo dr rägeboge im Goldtopf ändet… du weisch ja, eis ändi isch z Monton, u z angere bini iz am finge! 🌟
Ich verlasse Lauzerte bei grauem Himmel und schon erstaunlich früh: da Martin Nr. 5 bereits um ca 6 Uhr auf den Beinen war, hat auch der restliche Schlafsaal beschlossen, den Tag nicht lange nach ihm zu beginnen. Also bin ich um 7:15 auf dem Weg.
Abermals ist die Etappe nicht von landschaftlicher Schönheit geprägt und die Wolken tun ihr Übriges, aber ich bemühe mich, die Schönheit in kleinen Momenten zu finden: eine Wiese voller Mohnblumen, frische Kirschen am Wegesrand oder eine stimmungsvolle Kapelle. Es findet sich immer etwas.Read more
Traveler
Natürlich. Aber er wollte auch mit ihm nicht reden.🤷🏽♀️