Spiaggia di cavoli

Heute haben wir uns für einen Tag am Strand entschieden. Der Spiaggia di Cavoli 🏖 im Süd-Westen von Elba ist einer der schönsten Sandstrände hier. Nach ca. 40 Minuten haben wir den OrtRead more
Heute haben wir uns für einen Tag am Strand entschieden. Der Spiaggia di Cavoli 🏖 im Süd-Westen von Elba ist einer der schönsten Sandstrände hier. Nach ca. 40 Minuten haben wir den Ort erreicht. Trotz Nebensaison (aber Sonntag) war es leider ein Kampf einen gebührenpflichtigen Parkplatz zu ergattern. Wir wurden aber dafür mit perfektem Sandstrand und kristallklarem Wasser belohnt. Im Lorenza Beach Resaurant haben wir dann fein gegessen. Am Nachhauseweg haben wir unsere Vorräte aufgestockt und sitzen jetzt gemütlich vor unserem Häuschen und genießen den Sonnenuntergang.😍Read more
Peter möchte in Piombino etwas fürs WoMo erledigen. Wir nutzen die Gelegenheit, uns am Hafen nach Fähren Richtung Elba zu erkundigen. Nur 10 Min. später finden wir uns auf einer bereits fahrenden Fähre wieder. Nirgends ist eine Schlange, wir rauschen einfach durch. Auf dem von uns ins Auge gefassten CP (Village Rosselba di Palme) bekommen wir einen Platz für 4 Nächte.
Elba ist größte Insel des Toskanischen Archipels und drittgrößte Insel Italiens. 1814 kam Napoleon für 10 Monate hierher ins Exil. Seine Stadtresidenz war in Portoferraio. Etwas außerhalb hatte er auch noch einen Landsitz. - Elba ist nur 10 km vom Festland entfernt und bekannt u.a. für seine Mineralien, insbes. Eisen, die vor allem im Osten der Insel abgebaut wurden. Der Bergbau war immer fest mit der Inselgeschichte verbunden, bis die letzten Bergwerke in den 80er Jahren mit Aufkommen des Tourismus geschlossen wurden.
Am ersten Tag ist die Idee, sich den Nachbarort des CP anzuschauen. Das ist eher enttäuschend. In Bagnaia sieht es ein bisschen trist aus, wir sind allerdings in der Mittagszeit dort. Die Attraktion des Ortes ist wohl seit 50 Jahren eine deutsche Segelschule und der Blick auf die Hauptstadt der Insel, Portoferraio. Öffentliche Verkehrsmittel auch von unserem nur 2 km entfernten CP ins Inselzentrum gibt es nur im 2-3 Stunden-Takt. Peter hat die gute Idee,, dass wir uns für 2 Tage ein Fiat 500 Cabrio mieten, welches am späten Vormittag des Folgetages sogar bis zum CP gebracht wird.
Zunächst wollen wir auf den Monte Caponne (1019m), den höchsten Berg der Insel, fahren. Es gibt eine Stehgondel für 2 Personen, wenn man nicht zu kräftig ist. Ein sehr besonderes Erlebnis. Es hat etwas von einem Käfig. 60 Jahre ist die Seilbahn alt, aber immerhin vor 20 Jahren schon mal saniert. Beruhigend. Das Wetter ist wechselhaft und pünktlich während unserer Auffahrt auf den Berg zieht es zu. Als wir unterhalb des Gipfels ankommen, kommen dicke Wolken mit uns an und zu allem Überfluss beginnt es auch noch zu regnen. Ich bin noch zuversichtlich und steige über sehr unwegsames Gelände die letzten Meter ganz auf den Gipfel, weil es bestimmt schnell wieder heller wird. Wird es aber nicht. Nach einer 3/4 Std. kehre ich zurück zu Peter, der mit kurzen Hosen, T-Shirt und nur einer so garnicht wärmenden Regenjacke völlig durchgefroren ist. Schnell fahren wir wieder ab. Im Auto heizen wir uns erst einmal kräftig ein. Wir beschließen, nun die Westseite der Küste auf der Küstenstraße abzufahren, die wirklich wunderschön ist. Allerdings regnet es noch weiter, unser Bedürfnis auszusteigen hält sich in Grenzen. Die Orte sind ganz hübsch, aber winzig. Da es abgekühlt hat, beschließen wir den Umweg über unseren CP zu nehmen, uns wärmer anzuziehen und fahren abends in die Hauptstadt zum Abendessen im Hafen von Portoferreio.Read more
CP on tour Ja, wir dachten, es sei ein wenig wie Sessellift, nur im Stehen. War aber doch irgendwie anders🤷♀️.
Honeymoon, Flitterwochen, Urlaub und Romantik: war doch klar, dass wir uns so einen Spot gesucht haben …
Also, das Bastia`s ist ein kleines italienisches Restaurant an der Westküste von Elba, welches wir durch zähe Recherche und einen Tipp von unserer Campsite-Landlady gefunden haben. Es gibt dort gutes Essen von einer umfangreichen Speisekarte, hinreichend engagierten Service, eine malerisch eingewachsene Terrasse mit kleinen, weiß lackierten Tischen UUUND „den“ Blick nach Westen überhaupt. Nach telefonischer Reservierung vorab unter dem italienisierten Namen „Geraldo“ hatten wir den besten kleinen, weiß lackierten Tisch bekommen und konnten so einen grandiosen Sonnenuntergang bei. unserem vorzüglichen Dinner genießen. Bastia`s heißt Bastia`s, weil bei Nacht die Lichter der Stadt Bastia auf Korsika zu sehen sind. Es war grandios!
Moment mal …. Korsika??? Da waren wir doch … Wann war das? Vor vier Jahren? Und tatsächlich, dank unserer Telefon-Fotoarchive konnten wir den magischen Sonnenaufgangsmoment an der Südspitze von Korsika wieder finden. Und das war, man höre und staune, auf den Tag genau vor vier Jahren, 57 Kilometer westlich von unserem derzeitigen Standort auf Elba. Das ist doch mal ein dolles Ding … (siehe letztes Foto)Read more
Today we got up, packed up, and went off to explore a little more of Elba before our ferry. First up was Spiaggia di Terranera - one side is a green lake, the other side the Mediterranean! So that was fun. There were also signs about calling if you see any sea turtles babies as apparently they will hatch there! We didn’t stay too long there as there was no air movement and it was soooo hot! We headed on to go to another town and spy, but the road was closed and we would have had to go out and around a long way so we decided to just head into Portoferraio. Once we got there I was glad we did as the traffic was crazy and it was so busy with the car race people! We wandered the town a bit, spied on the market and looking at restaurants and bakeries to see what we could find and the town itself wasn’t anything special.
We did look at a few restaurants and found one that sounded okay, but it was a bit hot and not very scenic so we went to spy on a few more I had marked and the last one we looked at was right on the water at the beach, we got a table overlooking the water, and they had fancy Vegan options that were so so good! The water there at the beach was gorgeous, probably my favorite we saw! And eating lunch there with a slight breeze was wonderful! We had Vegan risotto, a vegetable pie with potato sauce, and tofu with sesame and ginger. Everything was amazing! I was so glad we went to check it out instead of settling for one of the earlier restaurants! Such a great lunch spot!
After lunch we grabbed our swim stuff and headed to the beach. It was again super busy, but very quiet. The water was pretty cold, but we did kind of get used to it and swan for a good 45 min! There were also lots of fish around and I was proud of myself for not freaking out that they were all there! Go me! They were kind of camouflage with the white rocks! Really the rocks were all weird and spotted which I haven’t seen before so that was fun. Really a gorgeous day!
Then it was time to head on to the ferry. We got there and wandered the waterfront a bit waiting for the boat and saw all the rally cars. The ferry was nice, the water was smooth and we had gotten this very light sweet bread to try from one of the bakeries. It was so fluffy and tasty.
After the ferry it was a bit of a drive to where we are staying - the second last photo is the view here. It is no Elba, but it will do ;) it does have some pretty fun decor! Tomorrow it is off to explore more around here!Read more
When I was planning our trip I found a hike here that looked pretty nice walking around this peninsula we are staying on. Once I booked this place to stay I realized it starts right outside our door so that was perfect. After our morning wander in town we headed off to walk the peninsula and it was such a nice hike! It was all along a road (mostly dirt road) and looked out over the water the whole time. Lots and lots of flowers blooming everywhere which made it even prettier and even a section of lots of cacti. This morning it was pretty nice, but by mid day it was getting hot! Super hot when it was not in the shade and there was no wind…we kept going in to an inlet and it would get stifling, then out and go around a bend and the wind would pick up and be nice and cool and it worked out great. Just when I was getting too hot we got to windy section to cool us down. Without the wind it would have been a bit miserable! And we made really good time as it was mostly flat until after lunch when we headed downhill to the beaches. We saw a little caterpillar that kept almost falling over while it was walking…and it was so warm that by the time we got to Spiaggia di Buzzancone o Cera we decided to go down and take a dip in the water. Though the water was freezing cold! So much colder than yesterday! My feet didn’t warm up at all until I got out, but it was nice. Since we were making such good time in the walk and were way ahead of schedule to be back for dinner we had a nice 2 hour break on the beach. Whenever i got to warm I went in and cooled off and then back to lounge on the beach. When we got there there was only one other person there so it was almost a private beach! When we left a few boats had come and as we were walking back a bunch more people with beach gear seemed to be headed there so it was going to get busier!
After the beach we kept seeing these weird bugs where when they walked they would curl their back part under them and I looked them up when I got home and they are European Glowworms! So that was fun! Oh the photo of the beach after the bug is the one we spent so much time at! As we went farther along there were a lot more beaches, but they are closer to town so they are much busier. We stopped at the last one before going back uphill to our place and they had Vegan ice cream cones and it was so hot we were like yes!! Cold treat! And sat in the shade and enjoyed them. That beach was super busy, but incredibly quiet which was odd. No one was making any noise!
After that it was a 4km uphill hike in the heat which was a lot, but we were pretty quick to do it! Normally I plan 2km/hour uphill (really that is 2km in 45min as we walk 45 min and then take a 15 min break for water and snacks). But today we did that 4km in 50min which is crazy fast! Especially since it was so hot by then.
Today was such a nice day. The walk was gorgeous and we had a lot of fun seeing all the things!Read more
Today was another amazing day, though we walked forever! 26km which is way more than we normally walk (I normally don’t plan more than 15km, 20 maybe once and a while if it is flat), but somehow my feet are still good and not hurting from all the walking (and we just took an after dinner wander cause we were both doing well after a long day)! So that is great!
So we got up and got going this morning and headed into town to check it out. There is supposed to be a market on Thursdays here, but I forgot it is a holiday so there was none, but we still enjoyed wandering the town. It is small and overall not the prettiest town we have been to, but the vibe is really great and we both really loved it. I thought we should have gone into town before now cause it was so nice! I loved just walking around and seeing all the things. And in our wanders we found another bakery with that Schiacciata bread - this one was almost a cracker. And I asked what the other one was and had corn in it so of course we had to try that. Both were delicious!
Then we headed off for our hike for the day which I will put in a different post. When we were wandering this morning we spied on the menus in town and found a restaurant that sounded good for dinner that was in the main square so we went back there this evening and oh, it was wonderful! We got beans and onions for an appetizer and it was so good. Then I got aglio olio pepperoncini which is my favorite and so good as well. Raymond went for the veggie pizza and it was huge so he was cutting off the crust for me to try and the dough was delicious. After eating my pasta I was dipping it in my spicy garlic oil and if that was an option for dinner, spicy garlic oil and Pizze dough, I would have ordered that and been so happy! Oh it was amazing! And not very expensive. We keep being surprised at how cheap the food and drinks are when we go out.
After dinner we had another little wander going down some roads we missed this morning and found a gelato place with peanut gelato I could eat so we decided to try that. I was expecting like a peanut butter taste, but somehow it tasted like eating salted peanuts which is not what I was expecting. It was almost savory and really good even though I am not a huge fan of peanuts. Much better than the last gelato place!
I’m already so sad we are going to be leaving here tomorrow! I did look to see if we could catch a later ferry, but the car race starts right after our current one so no point is spending more time (and the roads going into the ferry town close right after our ferry). But man I wish I could have a few more days! I feel like we could easily spend a week on this island and go to the beaches and hike around and go try all the restaurants in town and it would be wonderful. It’s not that big, we drove most of it yesterday, but we would have a great time exploring! I’m currently sitting outside on our patio enjoying the sunset which is just amazing. I did not expect to enjoy Elba as much as we have. I did think about doing 4 days instead of 3 when I was planning, but then I was like what are we going to do on the 4th day? As I didn’t have that much to do here. Now that we have been we will definitely be back for a longer stay! Tomorrow we explore the rest of the island we haven’t seen yet and then on to the next stop.Read more
When looking at what to do today I saw the Cabinovia Monte Capanne and knew we had to ride in them once. It was almost the same price round trip and one way so we decided to do a round trip ticket and it was so fun! The “cars” are these little 2 person cages which is…odd. You just stand in the cage as it goes up and down. It was so strange I was like well we have to do this now. And it was nicer than the enclosed cars as they didn’t get super hot in the sun and lots of fresh air. But we tried not to move too much as they would swing a bit. And you basically stopped every time someone got on/off so it can take a while to get to the top. I was glad we decided to ride them!
At the top you could walk around a bit and go up to a panoramic viewpoint and that was gorgeous! We saw all the spots we stopped at today and talked about where else we were going to go now that we can see everything. It was gorgeous and I loved it! Plus while we were up there we saw some Nubian Ibex! They were running down the side of the mountain then stopped to hang out in the shade so we sat and watched them for a bit. They are technically in the 7th photo, but too far away to be able to make them out. So that was amazing.
Then it was back down and on to our next stop, Marciana Marina. I had this marked as to go to get some gelato after our hike, but it was some pre-dinner gelato so I don’t turn into a cranky hungry monster before we get home and make food (I knew dinner would be really late so needed something to tide me over). The place has interesting flavors and I tried their Red pepper, melon, and chili which was…odd. Spicy, like not my mouth on fire but it really hits your throat and it wasn’t the best flavor. I definitely couldn’t have eaten a bowl of that, but I was glad I tried it as it sounded odd and was. We decided to get a chocolate sea salt and caramel cup to share and it was just alright. The caramel wasn’t like a gooey swirl, it was hard little pieces that I thought was ice at first. Not awful, but not somewhere I would specifically go back to again.
Then we wandered that waterfront which was pretty nice and then it was back to our place to eat dinner. It was a long, but relaxing day. We left here about 9:30 and got home around 7 so a full day! I loved it! It really made me think we could have used a few more days here. At least one, though we kept seeing road closed signs and caution tape up all over with signs says “pedestrians can’t cross the road during the car race” so we looked that up and there is a rally car race this weekend (starts on Friday afternoon so we need to actually look at the signs tomorrow to see when the roads are going to close to make sure we can get to the ferry). So an extra day wouldn’t have worked out well as we wouldn’t have been able to go anywhere. Next time though I will plan for longer here!Read more
After lunch we headed on to Pomonte which was a really tiny town, but there was a place to fill up water by the parking which was perfect! I had drunken almost all of mine and I thought we were going to have to stop and buy some as it was hot and I need water so that worked out great. Once we got hydrated we headed to explore the waterfront and it was another great stop! Lots of rocks to walk on and a rocky beach that we ended up swimming in! The water was freezing at first, but you did get used to it and it wasn’t too bad then. Though the rocks were very slippery and I was glad we had our water shoes with us! When we got out we sat on the beach for a bit relaxing and Raymond realized he got red spots on his legs again like that one time in Croatia last year…it is odd as it was just his exposed skin that got red spots, they are not itchy or raised or anything just a red spot on his skin. Then after a few minutes they went away. I’m glad it is not something worse, but still strange!
After swimming and a nice sit in the sun we headed on to Sant’Andrea which I almost skipped for time, but was glad we didn’t! It was gorgeous! The rocks, the plants, the water, it was all amazing! Really we didn’t have a ton of time there as we wanted to get to the cable cars with plenty of time before they closed, but I was glad we stopped by for as long as we did. Then off to the cable cars!Read more
This morning we woke up to gorgeous weather and were trying to decide what to do today. I had originally planned a few hikes, but not much else in the time we had here as honestly nothing looked amazing when I was researching it. Well basically as soon as we got off the boat yesterday I was like yes! This place is amazing!! I wish we had more time here already and we just got here! So I did some more research and looked at the hike we were going to go today - Mount Capanne. I didn’t realize there was a cable car you could take up as well and when I saw what the cars looked like I was like we have to ride in this at least one way! So I looked at the price and it was almost the same for one way or round trip…so then I looked for local markets to see if there were any today and the one town had one so I was like we could either do the hike, or we can drive around and explore, go to the market, see what else we can see and then take the cable car up this afternoon. So that is what we decided to do - drive around the island explore and see what we could see. It was the best! Such a great day!!
First up we stopped at a viewpoint to see what we could see. In the second photo we are staying on the left slope of the farthest hill back. Then it was off to Marina di Campo where the market was. The market was not quite what I was expecting. Only a few product places (we did get some things that were needed there), but it was mostly textiles which was different. It was really busy with mostly what looked like locals so that was fun. We did find some Briaca cake that is common here on the island - lots of dried fruits and nuts in it and it was pretty tasty.
After the market we wandered around town some and walked along the beach, found a bakery with Schiacciata (like focaccia, but crisper and flatter) - one was slightly sweet with dried figs in, the other was plain and oh, it was amazing. Olive oil bread and salt = the best!
On the way through town we found a church and went inside to spy and I was glad we did. They had all these super modern paintings up that I loved. So this little town was a pretty good stop. Better than Grosseto was to wander around!
Then it was off to see what else we could see. There was a lot of parking at a beach (Spiaggia di Cavoli) that looked fun from the road so we decided to stop and it was really nice. We even put our feet in the water, though the water was cold and it was not quite hot enough to swim.
Then we went down the road a little ways to Spiaggia delle Piscine which we loved! It was just all huge rocks to walk on and we sat and had lunch there which was really nice. The rocks were very hot thought so after lunch it was time to move on to the next stop.Read more
Der letzte Segeltag war angebrochen – und leider stand Flaute auf dem Programm. Wegen des italienischen Feiertages am 24. April, dem “Festa della Liberazione” (Tag der Befreiung, ein wichtiger Nationalfeiertag zur Erinnerung an die Befreiung Italiens vom Faschismus 1945), mussten wir unseren Liegeplatz schon frühzeitig um 10 Uhr räumen.
Zum Glück fanden wir eine kleine, typisch italienische Bäckerei, wo wir uns mit gefüllten Cornetti und herrlichem Cappuccino stärkten. Danach beschlossen wir, ein zweites ausgiebiges Frühstück in der Bucht Bibiola einzulegen und machten pünktlich die Leinen los.
Entgegen aller Flautenprognosen konnten wir sogar die Segel setzen und ohne Motorkraft Richtung Bucht gleiten. Für ein, zwei schöne Manöver reichte der Wind tatsächlich – und wir genossen die ruhige Überfahrt.
In der Bucht angekommen, bereiteten wir Baguette, Rührei und frischen Kaffee zu. Dazu Käse, Salami und das sprichwörtliche Dolce Vita – perfekter konnte ein Vormittag kaum sein.
Neele und Gereon nutzten die Zeit, um die Bucht mit dem Dingi – unserem kleinen Beiboot – zu erkunden. Auch der Sprung vom Boot ins klare Wasser, ein klassischer Köpper, sorgte für jede Menge Spaß.
Doch um zwei Uhr hieß es leider Abschied nehmen, denn unser Ziel wartete: der Heimathafen San Vincenzo. Die Erinnerung an die eher mühsame Hinfahrt schwebte noch im Hinterkopf, aber diesmal meinte es der Windgott gut mit uns. Bei strahlender Sonne und der richtigen Portion Wind wurde die Überfahrt ein echter Genuss. Nur auf den letzten Metern brauchten wir kurz den Motor – sehr zur Freude unseres Skippers, der sich fast die ganze Strecke auf die Segel verlassen konnte.
Delfine haben wir auf dem Rückweg zwar keine mehr gesehen, aber dafür beendeten wir diese Reise mit einem durchweg positiven Gefühl. Das letzte Parkmanöver lief wie von selbst, und unser schwimmendes Zuhause, die Benoît, liegt nun wieder sicher vertäut im Marina di San Vincenzo.
Zum krönenden Abschluss gab es natürlich noch den letzten Anlegeschluck.
Was für ein Abenteuer – einmal rund um Elba!
Danke für diese vielen großartigen Momente.
Viva l’Elba, viva l’Italia!Read more
Traveler So ein klares Wasser, wunderschön...und immer gutes Essen!
Traveler 🥰
Traveler
Wow 😍