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  • Journey-dahin wo‘s warm ist☀️
    Day 2–4

    Italien 🍝

    April 29 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Von der Schweiz nach Italien
    Wir hatten mehrmals Temperaturschwankungen am Tag. Weil wir über die wunderschönen Alpen gefahren sind. 🌄 🏔️
    Teilweise lag Schnee und paar Minuten Autofahrt weiter gingen Leute baden bei 25 Grad 😄
    Mara macht die Autofahrten Gott sei Dank super mit 😇    Read more

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  • TravelerNorthern Italy
    111
    Day 10

    The Matterhorn to Lake Garda

    September 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    The Matterhorn cleared off one more time before we left. Enjoyed coffee and breakfast on our deck though it was quite chilly. Headed down the winding mountain pass to our first stop, the fortress of Bard. Incredible place-we walked through the ancient village but chose not to pay the entrance fee and then ride three funiculars to get to the top:) After lots of tolls on the freeways we made it to Lake Garda, a gorgeous lake with massive mountains surrounding it. The drive was Amalfi-coast-esque, winding, narrow, tunnels so narrow buses needed both ‘lanes’, mopeds and motorcycles scaring the life out of us as they zipped along both sides of us! It was a long drive day so a relief to get to our lovely hotel right on the lake. We headed out to swim and cool off, then walked to town. Lovely sunset and amazing people watching! Sat out on a jetty surrounded by the lake and enjoyed the lovely warm air.Read more

  • TravelerNorthern Italy
    12
    Day 8–10

    Turin to Chamois/Breuil-Cervinia

    September 1, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    We left La Vedetta this morning. Most of you know I hate goodbyes…mama Anna and her daughter Marta love them. They got up early to see us off:) Marta cried. So much for my Irish goodbye. Super thankful for our stay with them! Drove to Turin/Torino and didn’t love it. Big, hot, and covered with graffiti. Headed towards the mountains, spotting castles and fortifications everywhere along with stone roofed villages. Made a stop in Verres for a gelato, a quick walk around the village and got to hear a local band playing.❤️ Driving past a beautiful mountain river, we spotted the Matterhorn! We pulled into Chamois, a ski area with summer hiking, found a parking spot, grabbed a ticket and were up the gondola. Almost to the top we spotted three chamois-so beautiful. Jumped on a smaller chair lift that took us to a lake. JD was convinced we could just pop over this one mountain and see the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks. We set off straight uphill, on a barely discernible path, at elevation. We finally saw a sign and it wasn’t for our trail but JD was convinced he could make it to the view. I sit here now under a tree, hearing thunder in the distance and feeling some raindrops, waiting for him to return. He made it back, but unfortunately a cloud was covering Monte Cervino(Italian name for the Matterhorn) 🧐 Hiked back down to the top of the chair and had a beer while listening to thunder and being sprinkled with rain. Rode the lift down to the gondola station. Had panini for dinner/lunch while waiting for the gondola line to die down. On our way to the station, saw a herd of chamois! Drove to our chalet, and didn’t realize it’s at the base of the Matterhorn. Explored the town, Breuil-Cervinia, got groceries and FaceTimed all three boys with the most amazing backdrop of the Matterhorn. Planning a big gondola/hike day tomorrow and praying for good weather.Read more

  • TravelerVia Francigena with Liam
    3
    Day 41

    Stage 60: Ivrea

    August 14, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    The good sisters prepared a very early breakfast for us and drove us down the mountain to the Via Francigena track.

    This was a very nice, easy day. We stopped a lot for coffee and such and made it a longer day than necessary, but that just added to the pleasure.

    In Ivrea we had lunch and drank wine from one of the villages we walked through earlier today. 😊

    This has been an extremely difficult and deeply satisfying endeavor, but my body is fatigued and it’s time to go home. Two more stages and then I’ll pause until next Spring,    Read more

  • TravelerVia Francigena with Liam
    Day 38

    Stage 57: Châtillon

    August 11, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    A lot went wrong today.

    We knew the sun would be blistering so we left at 4H45 for an 18-mile trudge. The way out of Aosta was nice, and we enjoyed the vineyards, etc. However, we made a couple navigation mistakes that cost us a lot of time and added distance. I have no real idea how far we walked, but it was definitely more than 18 miles. We stumbled into Châtillon at 15H30. Awful day.

    To wit:

    1.) I am deathly afraid of heights. Our navigation mistake took us high up the mountain where we had to traverse multiple sagging wooden bridges and too many metal grates spanning deep canyons. A nightmare, but not the worst part. The path was blocked off in the middle of nowhere. Way too many miles to backtrack. We ended up having to hold on to a railing for dear life while we climbed around the barrier with only inches of foothold over a deep chasm. I could feel my life shortening.

    2.) Liam had serious physical challenges today. He was fine in the morning but with the distance, the effort and the awful heat he got sick. Breathlessness, profuse sweating, tinitus, and, most importantly, a racing heart we could not slow down. I found myself trying to figure out where we were in case I had to (somehow?) call for help. The reality was that we had no choice other than to continue walking, even to find help.

    We crawled into the first bar we found and the owner ran over with water and Fanta and a beer for Liam. Italians are great!

    We are now in a pilgrim refuge. Our first toilet/shower experience of this kind. All’s good now!    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    4
    424122
    Day 8

    Day 4: Verrès to Pont-Saint-Martin

    April 26, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    I woke this morning to a fully overcast sky and light rain. I got to test out my new poncho, which will be known from now on as the "Great Pumpkin" (I'm a Peanuts fan) as that's exactly what I look like with it on. It did the job perfectly, and even though the wind was bracing, I never felt too cold (or hot). Today was one of those perfect walking days (26 km), even with the rain, I was filled with joy all day. There is something magical about the ever moving mist and low-lying clouds around mountains. Oh, and I got to walk in the valley itself and for some time beside the river. Everything was lovely. It was quite a steep hike to my accommodation, but it was worth every step. I listened to the book "A pilgrimage to eternity: From Canterbury to Rome in search of faith" by Timothy Egan, which was recommended to me by Andrew from Victoria whom l walked a little of the VF with last year. We reconnected a couple of days ago, and he's about a week behind me on the VF as he restarted in Switzerland. Anyway, I would highly recommend the book, especially for anyone who was raised Catholic.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    6
    222
    Day 7

    Day 3: Châtillon to Verrès

    April 25, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    A shorter walk today (21.73 km). The guide said it was challenging, and I was finding it easy! I even joked to myself that the end section was going to have to be tough to warrant the designation. Well, truer words have never been spoken! The last 6 - 7 km was an absolute howler. I didn't help myself by going the wrong way up a really steep incline only to have to turn around and retrace my steps to rejoin the Way! What a dill. Not long before I reached Verres, I was telling myself that there was no way this was the original pilgrim route when there was a perfectly flat and reasonable valley below to walk along LOL. I met an Australian this morning, Ann, in Chatillon. She now lives in Mexico and has walked all the way from Santa Maria di Leuca. When I asked why she chose to walk the VF in reverse, she replied that she had started in Rome, hated walking with the sun in her face, and then made her way to Santa Maria di Leuca. I believe she will finish today in Aosta. What a legend! I wore my skirt for the first time today (my standard for Part 1 of the VF). I had my tights underneath but took them off after the first 2 km - it was another sunny day and the sun is warm.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    2242
    Day 6

    Day 2: Aosta to Châtillon

    April 24, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Today was a long one (30.6 km) and the hardest walk I've done in a long time. I don't mind admitting that I'm sore all over. I literally took the scenic route - there were so many amazing things to see, and I took advantage of every photo opportunity. I'm sure it delayed my arrival, not to mention all the breaks I took, which let me soak in the views and was worth any delay. The Way today ranged from sealed road (a fair bit of that) to goat tracks. Again, I walked alongside an irrigation canal (the Ru Mazod). As you can imagine, there is a good amount of water around here. One bit of excitement: a dog came at me. I must have startled it when I suddenly appeared around the corner. I gave it a fierce stare and said "no" in my bossy voice, and it backed right off - what a relief. Funny, lots of dogs barked at me in France (even a goose had a go), not one dog that I recall barked at me in Switzerland, but here in Italy, the dogs seem to be territorial as well. One last thing; Saint Christopher is a big deal around here!Read more

  • Prek Aoste do francoskih Alp
    1
    Day 7

    Sprehod do modrega jezera

    July 21, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Ogrevanje za jutri oziroma prvi sprehod po Aosti.

    Prispela sva v oblačno dolino, se je pa vreme hitro popravljalo in sonce naju je že grelo na potki do modrega jezera (menda se mu tako reče).

    Vsega skup nekaj višincev in dobro uro pretegovanja nog, razveseljujejo pa razgledi na strme gore vsenaokrog. V ozadju (al pa ospredju) se je iz oblakov lupil tudi Matterhorn.

    Na povratku še en "aperol with a view". Pasalo je 🙂    Read more

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  • TravelerLuzern Rom auf dem Pilgerweg
    Day 23

    Carema

    May 7 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Beim Austehen heute Morgen hören wir den Regen.
    Wir hoffen, dass er bis zum Ende des Frühstück etwas abnimmt, und siehe, es war so. Bei leichtem Regen starteten wir unseren Weg Richtung Camera. Die heutige Route liegt, bis auf wenige Ausnahmen auf der Talsohle durch Dörfer und entlang des Flusses Dora Baltea.
    Auf den unbefestigten Wegen müssen wir Pfützen umgehen, teilweise angeln wir uns an den Zäunen entlang um keinen Schuh voll Wasser rauszuziehen. Schon von weitem sehen wir das Forte di Bard. Am Fuss des Hügels in Hôhn genehmigen wir uns einen Espresso. 
    Über eine alte Bogenbrücke gelangen wir ins Dorf Bard und stehen vor dem gewaltigen Fort. Es geht über eine schmale Gasse zur Kirche hoch. Hier treffen wir wieder mal ein Pilgerer, Antoin ein 77 jährigen Holländer. Er ist in Aosta gestartet.
    Eine asphaltierte Steilstrasse führt uns nach unten, wo wir auf eine in Fels gehauene Römerstrasse mit Zollstelle treffen. Der Felsen wurde plan abgeschliffen und die Strasse zeigt tiefe Karrenspuren. Durch das  anschliessende Dorf Donnas führt eine Gasse die völlig unbelebt ist, man sieht und hört nichts.
    Weiter geht es an einer langen, geraden Strecke entlag der via Roma nach Pont Saint Martin.
    Wir begehen die alte Bogenbrücke und ein Barbesuch folgt. Ein Espresso ist immer gut!
    Der Weg zu unserer Wohnung in Camera ist nicht mehr lang, aber es geht nochmals über eine steile Naturtreppe (Geissenweg) hoch und wieder runter.
    Angekommen in der Wohnung staunen wir gewaltig. Es wurde für alles gesorgt. Frühstück wurde von Eigentümer eingekauft und bereitgestellt. Sogar Süssigkeiten für Karin liegen auf dem Tisch. Das tröstet sie über die heute morgen in Verrés vergessene Schokolade hinweg.
    Die Essensfrage für heute Abend wird zum Dilemma, entweder laufen wir nochmals 4 km um ein offenes Restaurant zu finden oder wir gehen in das einzige offene Lokal im Dorf, eine Gelataria. Entscheid ist schnell gefällt, Gelataria. Wir haben wieder mal Glück, es gibt Sandwiche und ein Glas Wein. Wir sind schon fast satt, der Abend ist gerettet.    Read more

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