Ferreira do Zêzere

Such a day. Ups and downs in moods and energy as well as over terrain.
We had breakfast at the hostel with the other pilgrims, all setting out to the same destination, but at our own paces. Jayme and I were tired today and slow. And just in case we didn't realize it when our three hostel-mates disappeared before we got out of the gate, along came Bob. Bob must be 80, carries an umbrella and an enormous backpack and wears jeans and a plaid worksheet ( remind you of anyone?). Anyway, Bob stopped to say good morning, then took off at his ridiculously fast sprint. And was gone. We were again at the end of the pack.
We trudged quite slowly through a couple small towns with roads like roller coaster tracks, until we got to the woods. We had a choice of the high road or the low road along the river. We opted for the high road because we are just those kind of people, but also because it was shorter kilometers to the point where the roads came together again. We knew it was steep, but had no idea how long the climb would go on.we literally climbed, using sticks to help lift ourselves, for at least a mile and a little more. The path eventually became more of rolling type hills, so they were much more manageable and we were able to enjoy the beauty. The forest was full of eucalyptus trees and it smelled like a spa walking. We saw lovely flowers and cork trees that had been debarked. I want to learn about that process. Lunch was another ham and cheese sandwich on the side of the road.
Though we are still not discouraged, today was a really tough day walking. We were tired and our bodies were hurting all over. Or, as Bob said, first it hurts here and then I feel it there and forget about the last pain, but then this new hurt goes on until a new one distracts you from that one and on and on. I also had my first panic attack since I have been here. We were coming down a steep hill and it suddenly hit me. I needed to drop my poles, take off my pack, change my shirt, pace, try to breath and ultimately take a pill. It eventually passed and I carried on, but it was no fun.
They say The Camino Provides and she really did. We needed a good night, and we're able to get a reservation for a private room with our own bathroom in Alvaiazere, in the most sought after albergue. As a matter of fact, all of last nights house mates are here as well as 5 or 6 other pilgrims we have met along the way. This place is NOT fancy. It kind of looks like a frat house. But the guy who runs it does a little stamp ceremony with wax, and creates something special for everyone. He picked white for the color of my jacket and my heart and blue for the light in my blue eyes. He also arranged for a restaurant to open again ( they all closed early on Palm Sunday) for all the pilgrims, and drove me and Jayme there and then picked us up when we were finished. He then gave us a private tour of his workshop where he makes tables and stools from 100 year old poplar trees. Then he showed us where he is making a pool, terrace and lounge for the pilgrims, which he says will be ready next year. In two years, he will walk the Camino for the first time. He is waiting for his son to graduate so he can help his wife run the albergue while he is gone. His name is Carlos Pinheiros. He made what could have been a pretty tough day into something special.Read more