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Praia das Pedras Negras

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  • TravelerCaminho Portugues
    221
    Day 11

    Tag 11: Sonne ist wie Urlaub von Regen

    March 11 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Strecke: Labruge - Esposende, 34 km

    Auch am Morgen ist alles noch klitschnass vom Vortag. Im Dunkeln packen wir leise zusammen. An unseren Rucksäcken hängen etliche Utensilien, die sich über den leichten Fahrtwind freuen, damit sie trocknen können.

    Direkt am Meer geht es weiter. Schon jetzt ist absehbar, dass der Tag deutlich trockener werden wird. Wir stoppen nach ein paar Kilometern für einen Kurzen (Kaffee). Die Gespräche mit Alex sind mal wieder wahnsinnig gut. Der ist echt ne Themen-Maschine… ich dachte, dass wir nach dem ersten Camino bereits alles durchgesprochen hätten, aber es sind offensichtlich noch so einige klaffende Lücken vorhanden…

    Zur Mittagszeit kehren wir in einem Restaurant ein und Achtung, jetzt wird’s verrückt: Es liegt direkt am Strand, in einer touristischen Gegend, ich trank 2 Bier und einen Espresso. Dazu gab es eine große Portion mit Steak, Reis, Pommes. Der ganze Spaß kostet 9,20€. Für die Qualität des Essens, unfassbar!

    Die neue Energie bringt uns in einer guten Geschwindigkeit weiter vorwärts, sodass wir einige Pilger umkurven, die mit der neuen Belastung noch etwas hadern. Viele haben es gestern viele Kilometer gemacht, vor allem der Regen hat einige gebeutelt.

    Gegen Abend erreichen wir Esposende.
    Super Tag, Körper topfit - was will man mehr!    Read more

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  • TravelerPortugal Febr./ März 2025
    21
    Day 14–15

    Ponte de Lima + Viana do Castelo

    February 16 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Abfahrt Soajo am Vormittag, durch die Berge und den Nebel, in Richtung Atlantikküste. Zwischenstop in Ponte de Lima und am Nachmittag in Viana do Castelo, beim Heiligtum der Santa Luzia. Hier war es schwierig, einen Parkplatz zu bekommen. Wir fuhren bis nach oben zum Hotel Pousada und wir hatten Glück. Eine phantastische Aussicht hat man hier, von der Küste bis weit in den Osten und Süden. Zu Fuß ging es dann ca. 700m wieder runter bis zur Basilika Santuario de Santa Luzia.
    Übernachtung in Mazarefes.    Read more

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  • ...einfach mal weg
    22
    Day 13–14

    Aqueduto de Vila do Conde

    December 12, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Wir möchten uns das Aquädukt in Vila do Conde angucken. Es wurde im 17. Jahrhundert erbaut und von den ehemals 999 Bögen existieren noch 700 ! Es brachte Wasser aus einer Quelle in Terrosa über vier Kilometer zum Karmelitinnen-
    kloster Santa Clara. Sehr schöner Spaziergang entlang des Aquädukts und da uns auch die Altstadt und der kleine Stadthafen gefallen, bleiben wir direkt mal hier.    Read more

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  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    11
    Day 5

    Day 5: Pedra Furada to Vila Boa

    October 24, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Well, I lived through the night at the creepy guesthouse and had an easy walk today, only 11 kms. Rain was forecast for the afternoon, so I was glad to have a shorter walk today. I even had time to stop for a Thai massage in the cool little town of Barcelos before the rain started. Man was that a wonderful massage! My legs and feet were so happy to get a little love. ❤️
    Tonight I am in a little albergue, a guesthouse for Camino pilgrims, called Alojamento Flora (€20 for room w/ bathroom down the hall), just a couple of kilometers past Barcelos. The host is wonderful and made me a delicious bolognese pasta dinner (€10). I’m the only guest again, but fortunately they live here so it’s not as creepy as last night. 😂 I’ve been a little surprised at how few pilgrims I’ve seen in the past two days (like just one guy yesterday). There were definitely more pilgrims on the coastal route. I think it’s a little late in the season and there aren’t as many people walking the Camino right now. Honestly, I’ve been fine walking by myself, and spending quiet evenings alone. I usually talk to my family in the evening and write these reflections, so I haven’t felt lonely. I’m staying in another small family run albergue tomorrow night, but after that, I might try to stop in bigger towns to see if there are other pilgrims to compare notes with. 😊
    Foot report: My feet felt a little tender in a couple of spots today. I will probably use some tape on those spots tomorrow. I did use lambswool under my toes today, but that area really isn’t bothering me at all. After my massage, my legs are feeling pretty good. I’m ready to take on the 15 or so kilometers tomorrow!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    1
    Day 4

    Day 4: Vila do Conde to Pedra Furado

    October 23, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Today was my longest walk so far, almost 20 km. The walk from the Coastal Route to the Central Route isn’t technically part of the Camino, and I was walking along a highway for several kilometers. I’m not talking about an interstate in the US, but it was still a fairly busy road with no sidewalk in certain places, so it wasn’t the best walk for a few km. I read that a lot of people take a bus or taxi from Vila do Conde to Arcos, where they can rejoin the Camino Central Route. If I had it to do over again, I would probably take the bus, but I’m here now and all is well. My original plan was to stop in Rates, but I felt like I still had a little gas in the tank so I decided to go about 5 km further to the next town, Pedra Furada, which is where I am now. I’m staying in a big guest house (Casa da Maria, €40) and I’m the only person here. Even the girl who checked me in is gone, so I have this whole huge place to myself. I’m so tired that I’m sure I will sleep fine, but it is a little unsettling to be in this big place by myself. I locked all the doors and checked the rooms. Hopefully you’ll hear from me tomorrow. 😂
    I had the pilgrim’s dinner at a little restaurant that has been serving Camino pilgrims for the past 78 years. The owner, Antonio, has tons of photos and showed me a picture from 2008 with two ladies from Alaska. I guess he doesn’t get many Alaskans through here.
    I basically walked through farm country all day. The farmers have already harvested their crops, and now they are spraying their fields with cow manure, I guess to help get the soil ready for spring. So basically I’ve been smelling cow shit all day and it was not pleasant. 🐄💩 😂
    I’ve had incredible weather, in the 70s and sunny all day. There’s rain in the forecast for tomorrow, so we’ll see what happens. Since I went further today, my walk will be a little shorter tomorrow, which will be good if it’s raining.
    Foot report: My feet felt pretty sore by the end of the day, and I almost felt some tender spots, but no blisters so far. I might try using the lambswool in those spots tomorrow just to be on the safe side. Preventing blisters is super important on the Camino. My legs are feeling okay, but I was dragging the last 1-2 km today. I’m proud of myself for pushing through this long day of walking!    Read more

  • TravelerSolo Portuguese Camino
    11
    Day 5

    Day 4 - 30 kms to Viana do Costello

    October 23, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After a sleepless night I awoke to find several pilgrims already gone. Two things occur to me 1. I must have gotten some sleep and 2. I was inspired by how svelte these pilgrims were at leaving without a peep. They are clearly more experienced at this than I. I found today long and hot without a lot of shade. I was excited to meet Rhonda Downey from New Brunswick. She is the first Canadian I’ve met. We walked together with Anje from Germany and decided to take the unofficial coastal route, described as ‘more adventurous’. We has a mix of narrow cobblestone streets, wooded trail, carriage lanes and beach walking.. Even though I was tired, I could not resist exploring this lovely small city. I will sleep well tonight in my private room.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    1111112121
    Day 3

    Day 3: Labruge to Vila do Conde

    October 22, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was my last day walking along the coast. Tomorrow I will cut across to the Central Route, headed toward Rates and Barcelos. I’ve enjoyed walking along the coast, but it’s pretty windy and I’m ready for a change of scenery.
    This morning at breakfast at the Smiling Places Guesthouse, I met some other American pilgrims. When I told them I was from the Aleutian Islands in Alaska, the lady told me she worked in the canneries in King Cove, Chignik, and Port Moeller back in the late 70s. I almost fell out of my chair. I couldn’t believe it. Just another reminder of what a small world this big old world is. 😀

    I’m in a nice little family run hotel tonight called Vencelas Wine Boutique Hotel (60€ for private room w/ bathroom). The highlight was the amazing dinner. I had some kind of roasted and pan fried pork dish with pickled cabbage and vegetables, fried potatoes, and rice. It was literally one of the best pork dishes I’ve ever had. I also had a glass of what they call green wine, which is a kind of fermented white wine only made in this area, and their house red wine, both delicious. They make their own wine and source all the food ingredients locally. My dinner cost €20, with three glasses of wine (don’t judge😂). I can see why so many people want to move to Portugal.

    Foot report: no blisters, but my right foot felt a little sore today. I tried to find a massage, but wasn’t able to get in anywhere. Maybe tomorrow.
    My legs and feet both feel pretty tired and sore. I’ve been stopping to stretch fairly frequently, but probably not enough. I’m hoping my legs keep getting stronger and won’t be as sore in a few days. I’m still at the beginning of this Camino and I’ve got a long way to go.    Read more

  • TravelerSolo Portuguese Camino
    12
    Day 4

    Day 3 - 21 km to Esposende

    October 22, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Friends, thank you for comments /messages from home. I feel blessed. Another glorious day walking along the Atlantic coast with the last few hours being on cobblestone in small towns, through forests and farm fields. Tonight i am in a mixed dorm room with six other pilgrims and hoping for sleep. 🤞Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino Portuguese

    Barcelos Day 2

    September 23, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    I was going to take a side trip to Braga today, but no. Especially babying the knee. I did laundry, bought some Voltaren at the Farmacia and some snacks for tomorrow’s trek. Wandered around, took some pics. Broke down in tears, fought back a panic attack, mailed a couple post cards and sat in companionable silence with a woman and her dog. She asked if I was cold, I pointed to my sweatshirt tied around my waist. We both sighed and yawned, marveling at the beauty of the day, unable to speak more than the simplest words, yet connected to some kind of magnificence.

    Inner journey: I can make myself nuts over doing the simplest new thing. I can spend an inordinate amount of energy circling around what ifs. And then I can find my heart and breath and all is well again. It takes a little time and a lot of intention, and pretty flowers and a scruffy dog help too.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino Portuguese
    2
    11121113111112111

    Rest day in Barcelos

    September 22, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Boy I needed the rest. I don’t think I was as physically ready as I thought I was. But then I didn’t really know what to expect even after watching a zillion You Tubes. I’m not going to focus on pain so I won’t mention that. Just happy to have advil.

    I slept in, got breakfast, went back to bed. There’s a Middle Ages fair going on across the way. Biggest Ren Faire I’ve ever seen. I ventured out to find some recommended sites, try some local food, not just pilgrim meals— typically cabbage soup, a plate with some meat and 2 starches and a little lettuce and tomato salad. So with the fair, lots of places were open today, Sunday.

    One of the churches had a sign about today being Pax day (I think). So I’m imagining all my prayers for peace, written on my insoles, spoken through my lips and felt in my heart, being magnified by prayers all over the world. Yes! Yesterday while I was waiting for a taxi, a white dove lighted on the light pole across the street, just long enough for me to notice. Its a sign, I say.

    The inner journey— honor my timing and my limitations. My body knows better than my thoughts and ambitions.    Read more

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